Dengfu E22 Frame Thread

[bram.biesiekierski]

I pinned the shock yoke with a 2.5mm pin.

Im not super happy with the dengfu shock bolts. They seem very soft. Not hardened/heat treated in any way. I think these may be future wear items.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Wow. Ok so just went for my first ride on the e22 (also my first MTB ride since my Myo-pericarditis diagnosis). OMFG this is insane.

Did approx 15kms at a local trail network. The terain is coastal type. It has lots of corral/limestone rock, and lots of sand. It's only about 40m elevation. But there are numerous trails cut through the place. With a good mix of trails, some rocky chunder, some smooth and fast (provided the sand is wet enough, if its dry, its bog town). Some wide lime gravel walking trails. Some quite steep gnarly sections. And a few small rock drops/shoots etc.

Spent most of the time in level 5/5 sport. And I had it pinned LOL. Basically hanging on for dear life. The thing is quick. After a short while, I was basically riding it motocross style. Sitting down on the seat, dropping the inside leg and roosting every corner I could find. I think the sitting is also due to my current health situation. As I've said in the last, I'm recovering from pretty severe myocarditis. Haven't properly ridden in 8 months. Quite out of shape, and carrying extra weight.

I logged it on strava, and when I first uploaded the ride, I had it set as MTB, not eMTB. Needless to say, I got 12 KOMs. Hahahaha.

Haven't even got the suspension properly dialed yet. Just close enough to ride with for now.

I had a short stop about half way, and noted the motor was quite hot. I let it cool a bit and carried on.

After 15kms on top level, and alot of throttle assist. The display is saying battery at 36%. Which isn't too bad considering I was riding it pretty hard.

I think winding the power back, and pedalling more and it would be alot more range. Although, alot less fun haha.

Chainstay is getting shredded by the chain slap. Def need to sort some protection down there.

Brakes got a hard work out too. Can really see the discoloration on the rotors. Glad I went straight to 220mm Hope 4pots.

 

[BonBond]

Well it's all up and running. About to go for a shake down run after lunch.

First test in the driveway I was wheelstanding on the first crank. Luckily I forgot the magnet on the spoke, and it cut out with speed error. Otherwise it could have thrown me lol.

Need to set up the suspension a bit. And possibly bleed the front brakes. They feel too spongy.

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Looks awesome, loving the paint job. Did you have it sprayed professionally or is it rattle-can job?

PS. hope you don't mind, I'm using one of your previous shots as a background in Photoshop to figure out what I'm going to do

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Looks awesome, loving the paint job. Did you have it sprayed professionally or is it rattle-can job?

PS. hope you don't mind, I'm using one of your previous shots as a background in Photoshop to figure out what I'm going to do

The paint was done by a guy I know. He has a shop called 2NV Kustomz. He did a sweet job. It cost AUD $350.

The colour is Subaru Crystal Pearl White.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

As for my impressions on the bikes handling. I quite like it. The bike is a bit bigger and longer compared to my last bike. But it isn't unruly.

It takes medium to high speed corners pretty darn well. Seems very stable. You can really throw it in, and it doesn't want to lose the front. (New front Maxxis Dissector tyre here aswell, which i havent ridden before, so could be that too). As said, I was almost motocross style riding a few of the corners out there today. Like fully seated, throw a leg down chuck it in. And it was great fun. It just hooked up and turned, and the back would want to go first, giving a tail happy fun feel. (To be expected though, because the rear tyre is almost at end of life, Maxxis Assegai, 27.5/2.6, with lots of wear, and not many good knobs left.)

The weight balance between front and rear seams to be in the right spot. I guess the longer chain stays match the overall bike length, and help keep weight over the front. Which keeps it loaded and in grip.

The head tube angle (with 170mm fork and 29/2.4 front, and 27.5/2.6 rear) is about in the sweet spot aswell. I dont think you'd want it too much slacker unless your riding alot of steep gradient terrain. Too slack and your just pushing that front wheel out further and further. Which makes it harder to load it.

Going down steep rock shoots and more gnarled terrain and the bike just rolls over it. I think the coils front and rear really help in this department. They just eat rocks up like nothing else. And give a very planted and comfy feel. Which is why I specced coil front and rear.

I only did a couple of small jumps (not much at the location I was riding) and didn't have any major problems. I still need to adjust the suspension damping a bit though. I don't think this was ideal. And incorrectly set damping can really throw jumps off with bucking after compressing on the take-off, or diving too much in the lead in to the take-off. It does really need a bit more attention to get it dialed. And I haven't properly got it to a point where I'm happy just yet.

In tight switch back type terrain, it can be a bit of a handfull. To be expected though. And to be honest, I didn't have much trouble here, but there isn't a great deal of that where I was riding. I think I will find out at other locations as time progresses.

As for the motor. I have heard people complain about the way the power delivery is, and this was a concern before my ride. But I'm happy to report I didn't have any problems with how Bafang delivers the power. As said, I was in level 5 /5 sport most of the day. And while it was quite aggressive. It wasn't unpredictable, or inconsistent. And it was very easy to get used to. Im sure having the ability to tweak the ramp up / down, and initial kick, and all the other parameters via the software would be nice, and could potentially see improvements for your particular riding style and preferences, with enough tuning time. But I didn't have any issues with how it was set out of the box, and am happy after first impressions.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Well done @bram.biesiekierski

 

[BonBond]

Hey Folks, about to pull the trigger on the frame, but getting last minute wobbles on sizing.

I’m 5’11 and a bit () 181cm. Inside leg is 33’ (around 84cm).

Reading here that the frames come up large, I’d convinced myself I needed a Medium frame. Just wanted to check that thought with you guys, and this theory:

181 x 2.5 = 452.5 (optimum reach)

Looking at the actual numbers, the geometry suggests the reach on a Medium frame is 446, assuming my calculations are right, that’d put me somewhere between RAD and RAD Minus, which is where I want to be…

TL;DR – medium sized frame for a 5’11 guy?

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Im 183cm, with kinda short-ish legs for that height. And I went with the large size e22. It feels like it's a great size match for me. I was kinda humming and harring like you about what size to get, and settled on the large in the end. My reasoning was my last bike, I was kinda between sizes, and opted for the 19.5" trek (now called Medium-Large I think) And that ended up just feeling a little bit small for me.

Im really happy with the e22 sizing, which is good when buying a bike sight unseen off the internet. I have a pretty short stem though, at about 35mm or 40mm I think. Which I prefer. I also have no stack under the stem. But i do have 20mm rise bars. That all works out pretty good for my size.

I initially had 10mm stack under the stem, and it did feel a bit big. But I think that was more a bit too high, not a bit too long. I was also coming from a 160mm fork, with 27.5" on the old trek bike, to a 170mm fork with 29" tyre on the e22. Plus the e22 also has a slightly taller head tube measurement. So the cockpit was naturally going to end up higher than my old trek bike.

I personally think if your between sizes, you should probs aim bigger not smaller. As long as it's not excessively too big numbers. You can do things like remove stack, roll bars back, use shorter stem, or even run a little narrower bars, (which has the effect of lengthening your arm reach.) You can also slide seat forwards on the rails aswell. All these little tricks to get the fit dialed.

If on the other hand you choose a bike just a bit too small, you are forced to use longer stem, roll bars over, and slide the seat back. Which I think is less desirable than the above.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Don't get too carried away with reach and stack. These numbers kinda vary with different configurations, ie wheel size, fork length, rear end sag etc etc.

The length you should look at is the length between the bottom bracket, and the top of the steer tube. (You can use some trig to get this if you bike manufacture doesn't list it.)

 

[BonBond]

Im 183cm, with kinda short-ish legs for that height. And I went with the large size e22. It feels like it's a great size match for me. I was kinda humming and harring like you about what size to get, and settled on the large in the end. My reasoning was my last bike, I was kinda between sizes, and opted for the 19.5" trek (now called Medium-Large I think) And that ended up just feeling a little bit small for me.

Im really happy with the e22 sizing, which is good when buying a bike sight unseen off the internet. I have a pretty short stem though, at about 35mm or 40mm I think. Which I prefer. I also have no stack under the stem. But i do have 20mm rise bars. That all works out pretty good for my size.

I initially had 10mm stack under the stem, and it did feel a bit big. But I think that was more a bit too high, not a bit too long. I was also coming from a 160mm fork, with 27.5" on the old trek bike, to a 170mm fork with 29" tyre on the e22. Plus the e22 also has a slightly taller head tube measurement. So the cockpit was naturally going to end up higher than my old trek bike.

I personally think if your between sizes, you should probs aim bigger not smaller. As long as it's not excessively too big numbers. You can do things like remove stack, roll bars back, use shorter stem, or even run a little narrower bars, (which has the effect of lengthening your arm reach.) You can also slide seat forwards on the rails aswell. All these little tricks to get the fit dialed.

If on the other hand you choose a bike just a bit too small, you are forced to use longer stem, roll bars over, and slide the seat back. Which I think is less desirable than the above.

Thanks Bram - now I'm really conflicted.

Though better to go smaller 'cause can use straighter bars, longer stem etc. but can't make frame smaller...

Just been watching this vid:

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Your call. I'm only a whisker taller than you and as said, I'm happy with the large

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Shorter cranks (and even thicker pedals) also have the effect shortening you leg extension at bottom dead center, which means you can have the seat higher by that same amount. All these little things adjust the fit.

 

[BonBond]

I'm really on the fence here, pretty unsure whether to go Medium or Large. Obviously I'll be kicking myself if I buy the wrong size frame.

I think I'm between sizes generally. My old Scott 29er was Large and feels ever so slightly too big, the BMC 27.5 I have my BBSHD on is Medium and feels a touch too small. I rode my mates Giant Fathom E+ 2 last night, and my knees seemed oddly close to the bars....it felt small.

Need to find that Goldilocks zone

Anybody else have any input?

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Go for the medium @BonBond.
Believe me, these frames are bigger than what some may expect.
I'm currently building up a E22 frame for a friend who is 5foot 10" and the medium with a 170/150 set up 29er and a 180mm oneup dropper and 800mm bars and a dmr 35/35 seems bang on for him.

Oh yeah, he's using the Slackerizer headset as well

 

[BonBond]

Go for the medium @BonBond.
Believe me, these frames are bigger than what some may expect.
I'm currently building up a E22 frame for a friend who is 5foot 10" and the medium with a 170/150 set up 29er and a 180mm oneup dropper and 800mm bars and a dmr 35/35 seems bang on for him.

Oh yeah, he's using the Slackerizer headset as well

Cheers, planning to put 180 forks on mine I think, pretty sold on going mullet too. I guess if your friend is only an inch shorter than me, I can make that up with a bigger stem.

 

[Chrisnow]

Has anyone tried Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 put together with the belt on E22 ? I am very interested to give it a try. But it is hard to get some guidence regarding all required stuff to put together

 

[BonBond]

And so it begins

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Has anyone tried Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 put together with the belt on E22 ? I am very interested to give it a try. But it is hard to get some guidence regarding all required stuff to put together

Hmmm!!!
I'd be interested in seeing whether that was possible as well

 

[thaeber]

I'm really on the fence here, pretty unsure whether to go Medium or Large. Obviously I'll be kicking myself if I buy the wrong size frame.

I think I'm between sizes generally. My old Scott 29er was Large and feels ever so slightly too big, the BMC 27.5 I have my BBSHD on is Medium and feels a touch too small. I rode my mates Giant Fathom E+ 2 last night, and my knees seemed oddly close to the bars....it felt small.

Need to find that Goldilocks zone

Anybody else have any input?

Check carefully if the 510 mm Seattube @size L is ok for You, in regards of using a dropper post with adequate travel. Less the 150 mm are not enough in my opinion, if You go down the steep stuff at high speed. And the setup You are planning tells me this is what You are going to do. I‘m 1,83 and my E10 has a 470 mm Seattube, allowing a 180 mm One Up Dropper wich i think is perfect.

 

[thaeber]

@bram.biesiekierski: Looks like Your dropper is also One Up. Whats the travel, and what is Your inside leg measure? May be that helps…

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

@bram.biesiekierski: Looks like Your dropper is also One Up. Whats the travel, and what is Your inside leg measure? May be that helps…

I have a 150mm raceface dropper in e22, and it's pretty much the right size. It's at the lowest position in the seat tube. I could maybe use another 10mm or so at the top.

A one up 180mm might just fit, because they have very low stack height. I don't think I could use anymore than that though, even if the frame allowed it. My bum already buzz's on the rear wheel on big hits. Getting the seat lower out the way wouldn't make a huge difference as the limiting factor is going to be that rear wheel coming up on big hits.

I have a 180mm one up in the remedy though. I had to slightly cut the frame down maybe 5-10mm and it is about as tall as my legs will allow. But I still see the same problem on that bike. My bum buzz's on the rear wheel with big G compressions.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

@bram.biesiekierski: Looks like Your dropper is also One Up. Whats the travel, and what is Your inside leg measure? May be that helps…

I dont know my leg measurements. But my legs, arms and neck are kinda short for my body size. I'm all torso. I'm 183cm but have a kind of stocky build.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Cheers, planning to put 180 forks on mine I think, pretty sold on going mullet too. I guess if your friend is only an inch shorter than me, I can make that up with a bigger stem.

180mm forks and mullet is going to slightly angle the bike frame up at the front. This will have the effect of shortening the advertised reach, and increasing the advertised stack.

So if you using a standard 160mm fork and full 29, then the frame will have the advertised reach and stack. If you add 20mm with a 180mm fork, and lose 20mm at the rear with the mullet config, you are 100% going to alter the advertised reach and stack.

Given that the bottom bracket (refference point) is approx half way between the wheels and the headtube, You could probably guestimate that with your proposed mullet 180mm fork setup, you will lose about 20mm reach, and gain about 20mm stack. You will also slacken the head tube angle and also slacken the seat tube angle.

Something to think about.

As I mentioned before, stack and reach are just numbers and they change with all these variables I mentioned. A better measurement for sizing a bike is if you measure diagonally between the BB and the top of head tube.

Basically the diagonal measurement if you think of the stack and reach as 2 sides of a right angle triangle. That diagonal measurement is (in my opinion) a better judge of a bike fit than just looking at the reach etc. Especially when you are using quite large differences in components from intended.

 

[CaptainBobt]

Cheers, that's the bushings right?

This is the breakdown of parts I'm in discussion with Dengfu on (their words, have been assured that where they've quoted E10, its compatible with the E22 ):

1* E22 in UD matt finish: $799

1* headset for E22: $14

1* Rear thru axle for E10: $10

1* Bushings for E10: $8

1* Battery case for E22 (no BMS, no cells): $70

1* Battery bracket for E22: $40

Anything obviously missing there?

As far as bushings go I found these. Granted I have a marz Bober springer who Fox now owns so there hardware fits on marz gear .. this is what they look like installed on shock .. frame is not here yet so yes rolled the dice based on what others have reported for sizing . These bushings are high quality and fit on my shock perfectly.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

As far as bushings go I found these. Granted I have a marz Bober springer who Fox now owns so there hardware fits on marz gear .. this is what they look like installed on shock .. frame is not here yet so yes rolled the dice based on what others have reported for sizing . These bushings are high quality and fit on my shock perfectly.

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Wow. 650# spring? Have you done some calculations to get to that figure?

I have the same shock in my e22, and I tried first a cane creek valt 550-670 progressive spring. Then decided that was maybe on the stiff side, and went to a cane creek valt 500-610 progressive.

The 500-610 valt feels about right. Although I'm keeping the 550-670 incase I want a bit more spring later down the road. I haven't ridden in 8 months, and am not really pushing it currently.

Im currently over 100kgs, I've put on a lot of weight since my heart injury. And I hope to get back down to my previous weight now that I'm beginning to excersize again.

As for the bushs. I used regular fit hardware, with offset in mine. I just took the fox bushings out of the eyelets, and put standard bushings in.

 

[CaptainBobt]

Cheers, planning to put 180 forks on mine I think, pretty sold on going mullet too. I guess if your friend is only an inch shorter than me, I can make that up with a bigger stem.

I'm 5'11 a

Wow. 650# spring? Have you done some calculations to get to that figure?

I have the same shock in my e22, and I tried first a cane creek valt 550-670 progressive spring. Then decided that was maybe on the stiff side, and went to a cane creek valt 500-610 progressive.

The 500-610 valt feels about right. Although I'm keeping the 550-670 incase I want a bit more spring later down the road. I haven't ridden in 8 months, and am not really pushing it currently.

Im currently over 100kgs, I've put on a lot of weight since my heart injury. And I hope to get back down to my previous weight now that I'm beginning to excersize again.

As for the bushs. I used regular fit hardware, with offset in mine. I just took the fox bushings out of the eyelets, and put standard bushings in.

Lol yes I questioned that big a spring as well.. this is what the calculator came up with, but I was skeptical so I also ordered a 550x2.35 to play with ..I'm a big dude 235 lbs but in pretty decent shape SORTA . lol I tend to need more air more spring etc for a bike to feel right to me .. I'm curious you reported your suspension wasn't quite right yet on your first ride.. I'd be interested to find out how it feels with the 670 on there . .?

 

[CaptainBobt]

I'm 5'11 a

Lol yes I questioned that big a spring as well.. this is what the calculator came up with, but I was skeptical so I also ordered a 550x2.35 to play with ..I'm a big dude 235 lbs but in pretty decent shape SORTA . lol I tend to need more air more spring etc for a bike to feel right to me .. I'm curious you reported your suspension wasn't quite right yet on your first ride.. I'd be interested to find out how it feels with the 670 on there . .?

Oh wait I see you did try the stiffer spring . Yes I have a feeling it may be a bit much . I'm going to start with it wide open and then damp slowly and maybe hit a sweet spot

 

[CaptainBobt]

Bushings : the supplied e22 mounting bolts are 8mm correct..? Or do I need something bigger ..?

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Bushings : the supplied e22 mounting bolts are 8mm correct..? Or do I need something bigger ..?

Yes. The bolts are 8mm.

The hardware you got looks right

 

[Chrisnow]

As far as bushings go I found these. Granted I have a marz Bober springer who Fox now owns so there hardware fits on marz gear .. this is what they look like installed on shock .. frame is not here yet so yes rolled the dice based on what others have reported for sizing . These bushings are high quality and fit on my shock perfectly.

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those bushings Should be fine, see pdf i attached few posts ago (very similar measurments)