Bafang M560

[vext]

I see 800w max on my M510 FC 2.0 without throttle. Never had problem with steep climbing on level 4/5 level assist. Can tune it via besst pro.

Nice. Yes that's my point. The m600 suffers from old thinking in it's design. It performs well on the flat or up slight hills. But on the steep you have to downshift to keep the RPM high enough to keep power flowing from the m600. This means you slow down. My father, on his brose for example does not need to downshift because the brose makes more power at a lower RPM so he goes up faster.

To be clear the m600 climbs fine, just slower, and I would not complain if I had not ridden my dad's brose up the same hill much faster.

I just hope the m560 solves the cadence limitation, like I think they did with the m510.

 

[thaeber]

see 800w max on my M510 FC 2.0

800W? With 48V battery? I saw 700 max today…

 

[temon10]

800W? With 48V battery? I saw 700 max today…

48V battery

 

[vext]

I see 800w max on my M510 FC 2.0 without throttle. Never had problem with steep climbing on level 4/5 level assist. Can tune it via besst pro.

The m600 climbs fine too. It just does so slower than a Brose.

 

[K78]

Does anyone know when this will be released?

 

[Tilt]

Est-ce que quelqu'un sait quand cela sortira ?

M560

 

[Tilt]

fin mai 2023end of May 2023

 

[K78]

I bought this frame off eBay.

Would rather have a m560 than a m600.

 

[vext]

I bought this frame off eBay.

Would rather have a m560 than a m600.

View attachment 111846

Last month I was told 2 months....

So i'd wait for sure.

 

[mmcarm]

Rode the M560 at the Sea Otter classic and have M600 and M620 bikes with custom controllers. It's noisier than the M600, they indicated it has a steel main drive gear. Not horrible but noisier than Bosch and I appreciate the quiet of the white plastic gear in the M600. More powerful than stock M600 but not quite as powerful as M600 with Luna Ludicrous controller tuned to 2000W peak (which overheats too easily on long climbs). They indicated it will be tunable and it should shed heat better than the M600 (maybe due to magnesium case and they also mentioned updated motor design?). My preference would be M560 with PEEK main gear. They also mentioned better sealing of outer bearings which I think is needed, have 2 M600s that had the cheap outer bearings on the drive side fail.

 

[K78]

I took a chance on a m600 with ludicrous controller off eBay.

A few red flags so we will see how it goes.

 

[mmcarm]

M600 with Ludicrous controller is a nice combination except for the poor outer bearings. Crossing fingers for you. vext comments on the different Bafang motors is accurate.

 

[K78]

M600 with Ludicrous controller is a nice combination except for the poor outer bearings. Crossing fingers for you. vext comments on the different Bafang motors is accurate.

It’s for my first e bike and the deal wasn’t bad. I don’t think I have overpaid for it.

The bike will be for mixed road and light off road use. Nothing too extreme.

The controller seems quite rare so I figured that will be worth something if I change.

Im not convinced it will turn up tbh. I thought it was a scam for the first few messages, still suspect it might be.

I figured eBay buyer protection is good so took a chance.

 

[K78]

The “seller” of the ludicrous is a scammer.

Im just going to wait for the M560. Staying away from eBay.

 

[vext]

The bike will be for mixed road and light off road use. Nothing too extreme.

The m560 will work great for your purposes. The Luna controller is overkill IMHO. Your bike will still scream.

A couple notes for this type of use ( I wish someone told me this before I built my first bike ):

On flat road use you tend put more stress on the smallest cog in the cassette, as opposed to up-and-down use where going up you use a bigger diameter gear and going down you don't stress the small cog as much. But on the flat you tend to stay in the smallest cog and max out speed, putting the largest loads on the smallest number of teeth and will tend to wear it and the chain out a little faster than on leg power alone.

This is not the end of the world - just something to know and manage

My recommendation is to pick an 11 (or even a 10) speed rather than a 12 because the chain is a tiny bit stronger, and you wont need more gears anyway if you're not climbing as much.

Practice "EMTB shifting" correctly (in moments of low load) from a larger cog at launch rather than the more lazy practice of keeping the bike in the smallest cog and using the bountiful power of the battery on every launch.

Pay close attention to wear on the small cogs and chain and learn the best lube for your conditions. Clean/lube often and also note that you can buy (at least for shimano) just the two smallest cogs in the cassette as a kit for replacement. Replace the smallest cogs if it starts to skip under load.

I use the nine-step power setting rather than the five-step so i can lower the power assist with more control around town based on traffic, headwind, gearing etc..

Just my 2c. Things I learned by breaking things.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Look on EBay and the likes and the 2 smallest gears are available seperately.

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And change your chain at 2/3rds worn, you can increase the life of the other gears.

 

[K78]

The m560 will work great for your purposes. The Luna controller is overkill IMHO. Your bike will still scream.

A couple notes for this type of use ( I wish someone told me this before I built my first bike ):

On flat road use you tend put more stress on the smallest cog in the cassette, as opposed to up-and-down use where going up you use a bigger diameter gear and going down you don't stress the small cog as much. But on the flat you tend to stay in the smallest cog and max out speed, putting the largest loads on the smallest number of teeth and will tend to wear it and the chain out a little faster than on leg power alone.

This is not the end of the world - just something to know and manage

My recommendation is to pick an 11 (or even a 10) speed rather than a 12 because the chain is a tiny bit stronger, and you wont need more gears anyway if you're not climbing as much.

Practice "EMTB shifting" correctly (in moments of low load) from a larger cog at launch rather than the more lazy practice of keeping the bike in the smallest cog and using the bountiful power of the battery on every launch.

Pay close attention to wear on the small cogs and chain and learn the best lube for your conditions. Clean/lube often and also note that you can buy (at least for shimano) just the two smallest cogs in the cassette as a kit for replacement. Replace the smallest cogs if it starts to skip under load.

I use the nine-step power setting rather than the five-step so i can lower the power assist with more control around town based on traffic, headwind, gearing etc..

Just my 2c. Things I learned by breaking things.

I really appreciate the advice.

Im thinking of buying a cheap steel drivetrain like the microshift acolyte.

I’m disappointed about the Luna but the M560 seems like a really good motor. It’s a shame there will be no UART version.

 

[vext]

I really appreciate the advice.

Im thinking of buying a cheap steel drivetrain like the microshift acolyte.

I’m disappointed about the Luna but the M560 seems like a really good motor. It’s a shame there will be no UART version.

I had no idea about the microshift acolyte.

That said it looks very interesting.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Sadly an 8spd rear cassette ( Acolyte ) just has too wider spacing for a good feel to the shift. But that really depends on what rear min and max rear cassette teeth you want. I tried the Suntour 11-46 8spd but it really felt notchy as in a large jump between gears. If you were only interested in road and some relatively flat trails then it may work.

I've ended up back with mid range XT M8000 Shimano 10spd, its a great setup in my view, big enough chain for the loadings and modestly priced. Suntour cassettes used to be my go to for a budget cassette in the mud and slop we have in the UK ( its the mud and sand in the chain that really accelerates the wear ), they used to be 1/2 the price of Shimano but not any more.

 

[vext]

I've ended up back with mid range XT M8000 Shimano 10spd,

Do you mean 11 speed? I've been looking for a good 10 speed microspline cassette. Whats the part number you were referring to?

 

[Mr-EPIC-3]

I had no idea about the microshift acolyte.

That said it looks very interesting.

I have been running the Microshift Advent 9-speed for a couple of years now and works great. Microshift makes 3 9-speed cassette 1-38T, 11-42T and 11-46T all steel, so they last even on a eMTB.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Do you mean 11 speed? I've been looking for a good 10 speed microspline cassette. Whats the part number you were referring to?

Just looked online and the Shimano M8000 is all 11spd ( which I have on my EZesty ) and I know I bought 3 x 10spd cassettes as part of a deal about 18 months ago ( on my last one now ) which I thought was M8000, but apparently not.

OK so the only 10spd Shimano I can now see available is the Deore M4100 which I think was the old SLX range, they were good cassettes and I have one on an analogue, but not used one on an Ebike.

My rear hub is a Hope 11spd and I've taken one smaller gear ( less spacer ) from an old cassette and placed that onto the spline first before fitting the 10spd cassette, as a packer. The gear is not overly thick and the cassette is now roughly in the same place as an 11spd.

 

[TeoElFeo]

Rode the M560 at the Sea Otter classic and have M600 and M620 bikes with custom controllers. It's noisier than the M600, they indicated it has a steel main drive gear. Not horrible but noisier than Bosch and I appreciate the quiet of the white plastic gear in the M600. More powerful than stock M600 but not quite as powerful as M600 with Luna Ludicrous controller tuned to 2000W peak (which overheats too easily on long climbs). They indicated it will be tunable and it should shed heat better than the M600 (maybe due to magnesium case and they also mentioned updated motor design?). My preference would be M560 with PEEK main gear. They also mentioned better sealing of outer bearings which I think is needed, have 2 M600s that had the cheap outer bearings on the drive side fail.

Very interesting! Where did you get a the motor? Also can you describe how it feels uphill especially when your RPM drops? M500/M600 would suffer badly from power reduction on lower RPMs. M510 was an improvement, yet sometimes I wish it gave more power up the hill..

 

[vext]

Just looked online and the Shimano M8000 is all 11spd ( which I have on my EZesty ) and I know I bought 3 x 10spd cassettes as part of a deal about 18 months ago ( on my last one now ) which I thought was M8000, but apparently not.

OK so the only 10spd Shimano I can now see available is the Deore M4100 which I think was the old SLX range, they were good cassettes and I have one on an analogue, but not used one on an Ebike.

My rear hub is a Hope 11spd and I've taken one smaller gear ( less spacer ) from an old cassette and placed that onto the spline first before fitting the 10spd cassette, as a packer. The gear is not overly thick and the cassette is now roughly in the same place as an 11spd.

Thanks for the info. So I just bit the bullet so to speak and got the new Shimano "Linkglide" M8130 11 speed.

It's apparently the unit that Shimano's built for EMTB's. Apparently 3x stronger than the current hyperglide units like mine. I wish i'd known before I bought the 12 speed unit i have now.

i'll report back.

 

[mmcarm]

Very interesting! Where did you get a the motor? Also can you describe how it feels uphill especially when your RPM drops? M500/M600 would suffer badly from power reduction on lower RPMs. M510 was an improvement, yet sometimes I wish it gave more power up the hill..

It was at the Sea Otter Classic MTB show in Monterey, California. Just did a short test ride with mild grade. I think it has the same gear reduction as the M600 so probably similar bog down in higher gears on steeps. Powered up steep climbs in lower gears very well.

 

[vext]

I think it has the same gear reduction as the M600 so probably similar bog down in higher gears on steeps.

My take on it is the m600 suffers from software limitations rather than hardware ones.

On my hill climb today I saw limits at around 500-600 watts even with fast pedaling.

If I add throttle I can immediately boost the output to 750w and climb as fast as my riding partner's brose.

The m600 is sadly locked in a hobbled state that I'm guessing will be unlocked by the m560.

Actually, let me ask this question of anyone reading this who has an m510...
Can it be modified so that it applies full power at lower RPM?

 

[Mr-EPIC-3]

It was at the Sea Otter Classic MTB show in Monterey, California. Just did a short test ride with mild grade. I think it has the same gear reduction as the M600 so probably similar bog down in higher gears on steeps. Powered up steep climbs in lower gears very well.

Did you stop by the Vitus booth, they are coming out with a eMTB with the Bafang M510, maybe they will upgrade to the M560

 

[temon10]

My take on it is the m600 suffers from software limitations rather than hardware ones.

On my hill climb today I saw limits at around 500-600 watts even with fast pedaling.

If I add throttle I can immediately boost the output to 750w and climb as fast as my riding partner's brose.

The m600 is sadly locked in a hobbled state that I'm guessing will be unlocked by the m560.

Actually, let me ask this question of anyone reading this who has an m510...
Can so that it applies full power at lower RPM?

M510 FC 2.0 can up to 800W power. U can tune the power limit in every level assist with Besst Pro. But only on FC 2.0 version.

 

[PH1L1PP3]

I bought this frame off eBay.

Would rather have a m560 than a m600.

View attachment 111846

Nice frame! What is the rear travel?
I'm looking for a 17" frame with 150mm travel and vertical shock for a M560

 

[K78]

Nice frame! What is the rear travel?
I'm looking for a 17" frame with 150mm travel and vertical shock for a M560It’s 150mm travel front and rear.

It’s 150mm front and rear.