2024 Strive:ON
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
nice! does NOT look like Yorkshire
hehe
Tieff
Member
And I had also a wonderful day yesterday, but unfortunately no photos. But the good thing is, thet the Cascade Components latch keeps on doing a perfect job under all conditions.
It's above La Plagne in the French Alps.nice! does NOT look like Yorkshire
I've just come back from a week's holiday with The White Room.
I can highly recommend them for anyone that hasn't been.
Stevo and the crew are always brilliant hosts and they have to be some of the best trails in the world.
Tieff
Member
So, now here is it, not as video but as photo-story, the famous @Mario Antony threadlock mod:
Before: Remove battery
1: Disassemble lower bracket (to slip in with your arm more easly)
2: Zip tie the cables (2 groups, left and right cable duct)
3: Remove the metal strips that protect the cables (just pull out by hand, no tools needed)
4: I didn't notice before but the ends of the metal strips are covered with tape, so no danger to damage the cables
5: Should look like this then
6: Put in your hand and grab the upper battery holder
7: Loosen the screws on the outside of the downtube
8: Pull the upper battery holder out (no worries it cannot fall back into the frame)
9: Loosen screws (Torx 25) (one by one)
10: Buy Loctite 243 (better do it before you start)
11: Apply Loctite to the screws and fasten to 5 Nm
12: Do the same with the other two srews (T20) and fasten to about 3 to 4 Nm
By the way: the grease you see on the battery terminals is pole grease. It helps prevent corrosion of the terminal pins.
Now comes the tricky part (better get someone with thin forearms to help you). Push the upper battery bracket back into the frame. Try to hit the two holes, when you've found one: put the screw in and... you've won, the other one is easy. Now do the remaining steps backwards and you're done. Cable ducts are easy. Half an hour all in all... Big peace of mind afterwards!! Have fun.
Before: Remove battery
1: Disassemble lower bracket (to slip in with your arm more easly)
2: Zip tie the cables (2 groups, left and right cable duct)
3: Remove the metal strips that protect the cables (just pull out by hand, no tools needed)
4: I didn't notice before but the ends of the metal strips are covered with tape, so no danger to damage the cables
5: Should look like this then
6: Put in your hand and grab the upper battery holder
7: Loosen the screws on the outside of the downtube
8: Pull the upper battery holder out (no worries it cannot fall back into the frame)
9: Loosen screws (Torx 25) (one by one)
10: Buy Loctite 243 (better do it before you start)
11: Apply Loctite to the screws and fasten to 5 Nm
12: Do the same with the other two srews (T20) and fasten to about 3 to 4 Nm
By the way: the grease you see on the battery terminals is pole grease. It helps prevent corrosion of the terminal pins.
Now comes the tricky part (better get someone with thin forearms to help you). Push the upper battery bracket back into the frame. Try to hit the two holes, when you've found one: put the screw in and... you've won, the other one is easy. Now do the remaining steps backwards and you're done. Cable ducts are easy. Half an hour all in all... Big peace of mind afterwards!! Have fun.
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If anyone is considering a smaller chain ring I gotta say it has made the world of difference for me. Even just going down to 34T chain ring. I can now spin a higher cadence, it’s more responsive on the trail as I can pedal quicker when needed and I was able to keep a higher cadence and average nearly 25km/h on a ride home tonight on the road after riding trails with mates. 100% better for me over the 36T.
34/10 gearing is anyway still way over the 25km/h limit
Will try it out on some harder trails soon
34/10 gearing is anyway still way over the 25km/h limit
Will try it out on some harder trails soon
Mario Antony
Active member
Please, Copy and paste at the other post.
Your pictures will help a lot of folks!!
Ahahah, that arm down that downtube! Ahahaha
Mario Antony
Active member
I have a oval chainring lay around...
Curious to check how it will feel!
Really bad idea. Oval rings are designed to be bolted to the crank are, e bike spin the ring independent of the crank arm. I would guess your motor might pop some codes.
Mario Antony
Active member
Sometimes (allways!), I forget that the spider is freewheeled!
Tieff
Member
That was the most painful one... Holding the smartphone with one hand, the other one stuffed in the downtube up to the upper arm and then the phone slips out of your hand and you want to catch it. Next time I'll make a video and then publish "the making of..." I guess a lot of you would have a lot of fun with it.Nice one! Thanks! Love the shot of the arm stuffed down the down tubevery helpful!
How likely is it that the next batch of Strive:On Underdog will come with the gen5 engine? It says delivery september 30- october 11.
Im in the market for a new bike. Im considering the underdog, great specs for the price and a specialized turbo levo alloy, same price but specs are far off compared to the underdog.
Im in the market for a new bike. Im considering the underdog, great specs for the price and a specialized turbo levo alloy, same price but specs are far off compared to the underdog.
GDAS
Member
I'm interested in this too. I took delivery of a Large Underdog (29% discount) last week, and in the last couple of days I've noticed that the discount is no longer available. So my first thought was that they must be switching to the Gen5. However, they're currently saying they will ship Large in 3 - 10 days (I guess you were looking for Medium), and even if the G5 bike were to look much the same, the battery specs are going to be different (600 & 800 I think?) so you'd think they'd have that on the website. So it's all rather unclear - might be worth asking your question directly to Canyon.
Mario Antony
Active member
Miket775
Member
Gen 5 is due to launch beginning of October.
There are rumours that the new motor will have adapters to allow them to fit to existing gen 4 fittings and that also the 600 battery will fit but the 800 won't (all unconfirmed)
There are rumours that the new motor will have adapters to allow them to fit to existing gen 4 fittings and that also the 600 battery will fit but the 800 won't (all unconfirmed)
Mario Antony
Active member
Yes...yes...
Like Levo G4 was to be released, like some months ago, and we're closed to mid September, and nothing yet!
Miket775
Member
The Levo issue is an ongoing thing with Specialized (new stumpy alloy apparently now been delayed til next spring now also)
Cube has just launch their 25 range and its Gen 5 (pics have motor and new displays photoshoped/blured) and LBS told us availability is Oct and cant tell us the battery or other details yet due to embargo
Installed Zefal down tube (DT) XL armour. Hoping this is going to get rid of the horrible pink pink pink sound of the gravel and rocks being thrown up onto the down tube by the front tyre. It’s about 1.8-2mm thick rubber material that is mega tacky to install and deffo nothing like invisiframe or the similar tapes. I installed it upside down and cut off the side tabs (from the now skinnier piece near headset) as I wasn’t going to install it going under BB so didn’t need to bend it over the sides of the frame. Whilst not perfect it’s not too bad on the eyes oh and width wise it goes almost perfectly from the two canyon logos on the side
oh and width wise it goes almost perfectly from the two canyon logos on the side
Mario Antony
Active member
100km, 1900m, avg 20km/h
Had to detune the motor:
ECO @50Nm (standard settings otherwise)
TOUR @70Nm (the rest standard).
Rider 90(ish) Kg + 2l of water, spares, pump & tools
Tires set at 23/25
Total consumption: 93% (750w)
Was suprised with average. When I go solo on my Enduro Moto, avg speed is around 40km/h.... so... quiet happy with ½ on the ebike!
In conclusion
Arrived completly exhausted, but almost achieved what I was looking for: 100km/2000m
Well... maybe next time!
Enjoy the pics!
Had to detune the motor:
ECO @50Nm (standard settings otherwise)
TOUR @70Nm (the rest standard).
Rider 90(ish) Kg + 2l of water, spares, pump & tools
Tires set at 23/25
Total consumption: 93% (750w)
Was suprised with average. When I go solo on my Enduro Moto, avg speed is around 40km/h.... so... quiet happy with ½ on the ebike!
In conclusion
Arrived completly exhausted, but almost achieved what I was looking for: 100km/2000m
Well... maybe next time!
Enjoy the pics!
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Mario Antony
Active member
GDAS
Member
that's very impressive, were you just riding in ECO and TOUR?
Mario Antony
Active member
Mostly ECO (I'd say... 95%?).
Never turn-off the motor, but on flats, I was over the speed limit, so no assistance.
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InRustWeTrust
E*POWAH Master
Then it was my turn to get problems, the bike has only run 290 km. it started with me feeling like I was getting less assistance in all modes.
today when I was out cycling it started with cut outs and the display started to glow orange. I can fix it myself but feel I'd rather send the bike back and have canyon fix their junk bikes
today when I was out cycling it started with cut outs and the display started to glow orange. I can fix it myself but feel I'd rather send the bike back and have canyon fix their junk bikes
Battery catch removal
After reading all the issues with the battery I decided to remove the catch on my new strive on before any problems might or might not arise and bolt the battery in.
I also removed the the battery connector to check the screws and use screwlock.
I made the bracket out of some aluminium angle I had lying around.
Battery now nice and tight and easy to get out if required.
After reading all the issues with the battery I decided to remove the catch on my new strive on before any problems might or might not arise and bolt the battery in.
I also removed the the battery connector to check the screws and use screwlock.
I made the bracket out of some aluminium angle I had lying around.
Battery now nice and tight and easy to get out if required.
Mario Antony
Active member
You don't remove the battery that often
I know that the part that normally goes there, is made of aluminium, but just to be 100% sure, try use some kind of isulation between the carbon and aluminium.
Have you used the original bolts, or others?
Mario Antony
Active member
Has Quetech said, you're having problems with the upper battery bracket.
It's a very simple solution, covered here:
STRIVE :ON POWER CUTOUTS
When new, the Strive :ON don't present any problem on the battery connection. The bike normally works flawlessly and some owners will concluded that the power surge problem is just on some bikes. As rides accumulate, depending on the trails, and usage, the power cuts can start earlier or...
www.emtbforums.com
@Tieff Added pictures.
Once performed, you'll be ok again.
Check what latch you have.
There is a reinforced/new version.
If you have the old one, consider writing to Canyon, describing the rattle and power cutouts.
Happy riding!
PS: keep a close look at the bolts on the frame, because it has a tendecy to unsrew
H
Yes I had to use the original screws between the frame and the new bracket as I did not have any countersunk M5, however they are on my shopping list.
I will have a look at the carbon to aluminium dissimilar material issue, I have some thin insulating material I can use if required.
I was also thinking of making a stainless steel one in the future.
I don't plan on removing the battery that often and if I do its only 2 screws, I seldom remove the battery from my Trek rail even though its very easy to do so, If it becomes an issue I can always revert back to the original setup.You don't remove the battery that often
I know that the part that normally goes there, is made of aluminium, but just to be 100% sure, try use some kind of isulation between the carbon and aluminium.
Have you used the original bolts, or others?
Yes I had to use the original screws between the frame and the new bracket as I did not have any countersunk M5, however they are on my shopping list.
I will have a look at the carbon to aluminium dissimilar material issue, I have some thin insulating material I can use if required.
I was also thinking of making a stainless steel one in the future.
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