2024 Strive:ON

RJUK

Active member
Sep 29, 2021
571
300
UK
Went this morning to test LSR fully open and LSC 3/4 closed felt super good downhill. Bike have very good pop for jump and felt very stable on rock garden.
I try LSC fully closed but was too harsh. try LSC half open and felt using too much travel.

Still using 50% to 75% of travel going uphill but I think I will try forget about that.
I think they designed the bike to use more travel on purpose though. I remember reading that they did this because they realised most riders were never utilising all of their travel, so perhaps it's by design.

As long as it feels good and you're not bottoming out all the time, then should be all good. 👍
 

Mars2

Member
May 16, 2023
115
85
La Ciotat France
the more i ride this bike the more I love it. just trying to get the best out of it for my kind of riding.

the only thing i hate on it is not Canyon design but Bosch and it's this 25km/h limit that is not possible to change😈😈😈

the next time I buy a bike this will be a big "NO buy it" so frustrating for some jump or regain speed after curve downhill and you have to pedal so hard because you already way past 25km/h

I always go down in Turbo mode to have those little boost after curve like on a MX. But with Bosch this is useless.
 

Mars2

Member
May 16, 2023
115
85
La Ciotat France
I fully understand this speed limit make sense as some of those motor's will be use on road and city. But they should have some kind of over boost like on car's in the 90's. maybe 5 second where you can have assistance between 25 and 50Km/h and then the 25 limit kick back on, and you can't use that over boost for the next 30 or 45second. At least for motor that going to be fitted on MTB's. like that people can't cruise at 50Km/h but you can get boost when you need it.
 
Last edited:

RJUK

Active member
Sep 29, 2021
571
300
UK
I fully understand this speed limit make sense as some of those motor's will be use on road and city. But they should have some kind of over boost like on car's in the 90's. maybe 5 second where you can have assistance between 25 and 50Km/h and then the 25 limit kick back on, and you can't use that over boost for the next 30 or 45second. At least for motor that going to be fitted on MTB's. like that people can't cruise at 50Km/h but you can get boost when you need it.
That's not really Bosch's fault though. As I understand it's EU laws that mandate the speed limit.
 

Winryn

Active member
Nov 10, 2019
135
191
Shropshire
I fully understand this speed limit make sense as some of those motor's will be use on road and city. But they should have some kind of over boost like on car's in the 90's. maybe 5 second where you can have assistance between 25 and 50Km/h and then the 25 limit kick back on, and you can't use that over boost for the next 30 or 45second. At least for motor that going to be fitted on MTB's. like that people can't cruise at 50Km/h but you can get boost when you need it.
It’s the only negative to the bike for me. I absolutely hate the limit. I rode 3200 miles on my old Shimano motor set to USA region and it’s very difficult to adjust to. What doesn’t help me is a lot of my riding is on early morning Wrekin rides and I ride 6 miles on the road. I find myself just spinning the pedals to stay at 16mph whereas naturally riding fast before I was sitting at 19-20mph but still under motor support. That feeling of cut off on the road is awful as it’s like someone has slammed the brakes on riding beyond it. If anyone can change the region I’d happily pay £1000 if someone could sort it 😂😎😎
 

Mars2

Member
May 16, 2023
115
85
La Ciotat France
HI Rob did you have more time with the 180mm fork? Still enjoying it?
Did you set that fork more soft to use more travel than the 170mm?

Many question sorry. But very interest in that.
 

Rob Rides EMTB

Administrator
Staff member
Subscriber
Jan 14, 2018
6,260
13,700
Surrey, UK
HI Rob did you have more time with the 180mm fork? Still enjoying it?
Did you set that fork more soft to use more travel than the 170mm?

Many question sorry. But very interest in that.
I've only had one quick ride really, but will be out all day tomorrow, so will report back.

Its taken from my Kenevo so have not adjusted anything at all (although i set bars 10mm lower on stem).
 

Winryn

Active member
Nov 10, 2019
135
191
Shropshire
4 weeks and 300 miles covered I’m still loving the bike.

It really is a tremendous all rounder. As stated before, I was a medium on my previous focus jam 2 and even though the numbers say it was smaller and shorter, in reality I can’t feel any difference. In the saddle the bike feels shorter, out of the saddle I just feel like I’m in the middle of the bike with a nice slack front end which makes me a far better rider on the descents. The slacker head makes the steering slightly slower than I’m used to on fairly tame trails however once used to it it doesn’t take the fun away. I now find myself looking for drop offs and jumps which I was not confident on on my focus. The difference seems to be even if you land drops wrong, it makes them feel like nothing so takes all the fear away.

Loving the Bosch Emtb mode. Seems to give 35-40 miles on the 750w battery with lots of climbing. I’ve got used to it after the Shimano systems and enjoy the reactive nature of it. Also I’m loving the over run feature, it’s actually really important with the bottom bracket being quite low and having to be more careful with pedal strikes. Being able to give half a turn and let the motor kick you over obstacles really helps get around the issue.

Brakes are still great, love the grips, stem and bar combo. Missing the 2.8 rear tyre from my focus, allowed me to run much lower pressures without rim dings but enjoying the sharpness it seems to give. The tyre combo is fantastic, love the assegai at the front and loving the bullet proof nature of the dd rear dhr 2.

Glad I did the invisiframe, seems to be holding up really well. I’ve sliced up an old RRP front mud guard to use at the rear to protect the mud and rock shelf the bike has which seems to be working well.

Someone mentioned the plastic skid guard at the bottom rubs the bottom of the down tube. I added extra frame protection to protect the carbon but heard a funny creaking the other day (bike has been deadly silent so far) turns out it was dirt caught between the plastic and the wrap which had worn through the wrap. I’ve now added a piece of sticky foam padding which hopefully will help stop it rubbing through again.

I’ve swapped the Deore mech out for SRAM AXS GX upgrade kit. Runs beautifully with the Shimano cassette and chain and I’m loving the instant always perfect changes and lack of cables.
IMG_6843.jpeg
Also such a simple install 👌🏻

Overall couldn’t be happier with the bike, just wish the weather was better as it’s constantly covered in mud 😭
 

Rob Rides EMTB

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Jan 14, 2018
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I rode the 180mm for a few hours this afternoon. I’ll be going back to the 170mm.

The 180mm works well for super steep stuff but anything else it’s too unsettled / unbalanced Vs stock, and I struggled to weight the front end without a lot of body language over the bars.

Was a good experiment but I far prefer the 170 stock.

D9770356-5E3B-4D12-9D62-9B8B086E9F44.jpeg
 

CrispyDesigns

Active member
May 25, 2023
198
172
UK
After a 48 hour period of doubting whether I should go for the Orbea Wild so I can buy from a bricks and mortar local bike shop I'm firmly back in the Canyon Strive:ON camp! I've been reading the Orbea Wild thread and there was enough stories and posts about frame quality finish that I thought it deserved a trip to my local Orbea dealer and see if the bikes in the shop look ok. TBH the finish was ok, a solid 7/10 but no where near good enough for me to be happy with my purchase if I went for the Wild.

I'm glad to be back....
 

Mars2

Member
May 16, 2023
115
85
La Ciotat France
Tried 10mm and then 15mm lower.
What do you think of trying with Offset Bushing on rear shock 2 or 2.5mm each so 5 total. This should make the rear 10 to 12mm higher.
Like that you keep same geometry as original bike, but more front travel and little bit higher crank like Voima style.

Do you think it does not make any sense or could it be intresting to try?
 

Rob Rides EMTB

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Jan 14, 2018
6,260
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Surrey, UK
What do you think of trying with Offset Bushing on rear shock 2 or 2.5mm each so 5 total. This should make the rear 10 to 12mm higher.
Like that you keep same geometry as original bike, but more front travel and little bit higher crank like Voima style.

Do you think it does not make any sense or could it be intresting to try?
Honestly it runs just great as it is out the box :)
 

thewanted

Member
Apr 2, 2023
96
41
UK
It's taken weeks to get my Strive:ON CFR (750wh) ready due to some drama with the bike. Both brakes were very soft straight out of the box, so I thought that they needed bleeding. The guy who Invisiframed the bike bled them, and the front brake got very "tight" but the rear brake was still very weak. I took the bike to Canyon HQ, and they showed me that both callipers had cracked pistons. They think it was the guy who bled them, but they weren't working when the bike was unboxed so I'll never know what the real story is. Canyon very kindly replaced both callipers under warranty so no complaints with their customer service.

Tomorrow will be the first time I ride the bike, and I'm taking it straight to Afan Forest. I can't see many posts here about battery range. I assume the bike is unlikely to be able to complete the W2 (44km and 975mb climbing) and Blade (24km and 795m climbing) trails in eMTB mode? I weigh about 102kg kitted up.
 

thewanted

Member
Apr 2, 2023
96
41
UK
Thanks very much Rob! That’s a helluva lot of elevation gain for 40’ish km. Which mode did you use for both rides?
 

Rob Rides EMTB

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Thanks very much Rob! That’s a helluva lot of elevation gain for 40’ish km. Which mode did you use for both rides?
It’s steep near me 👍 Strive is perfect for it!

Mostly Auto for climbing and EMTB for trails.

Never use eco at all, and used a little bit of Turbo when I got tired (less than 5% of the ride)

I’d estimate 60% auto, 35% eMTB and 5% turbo.
 

thewanted

Member
Apr 2, 2023
96
41
UK
Thanks again! I wasn’t even aware that the bike had an auto mode. Time to haul out the manual before I trek 3 hours to Wales tomorrow 😂
 

RJUK

Active member
Sep 29, 2021
571
300
UK
It doesn’t out of the box, I got it updated by Bosch to add it.

I now have:
- Turbo
- Emtb
- Auto
- Tour+

👍
Interesting. What's the difference between auto and trail then? I thought trail and EMTB were "reactive" modes anyway?

One other quick question Rob, as I noticed you have a Fox QR up front, when you set it up and tighten the bolt on the floating axle, does the QR have to be open or closed?

I'm about to fit a QR myself in a minute. Annoying that this bike didn't come with one out of the box.
 

Mario Antony

Active member
May 5, 2023
228
173
Portugal
Sucks about brakes. Weird they would be cracked!

Here’s some range stats from my rides. Approx 82KG kitted up. DH tyres.

View attachment 120820 View attachment 120821
Almost like my rides. +/- 38/40 km and 1600/1700m, +/- 17km/h avg.
I normally ride eMTB, with some climbs @TURBO, and complete the ride with less than 5%

Weight ~ around 86kg (naked)
As already asked, what's the difference betweem AUTO and eMTB?
 

Rob Rides EMTB

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Staff member
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Jan 14, 2018
6,260
13,700
Surrey, UK
As already asked, what's the difference betweem AUTO and eMTB?
Auto is a bit more of a winch back to the top mode for me. It’s not as reactive as EMTB mode (doesn’t seem to give a burst of power). I use it on long and steep climbs (not technical climbs- for those I’ll change to EMTB).

Auto feels like a bit of a diesel engine - lots of low down grunt to churn out the long climbs and boring stuff. Range from it is really impressive. I think it’s because it doesn’t have those short spikes of super high high power, but is enough power to feel like you’re covering distance fast.

EMTB and Turbo for the fun stuff 👍
 

cykelk

Well-known member
Subscriber
May 15, 2023
108
141
Cascadia
I took the bike to Canyon HQ, and they showed me that both callipers had cracked pistons. They think it was the guy who bled them, but they weren't working when the bike was unboxed so I'll never know what the real story is. Canyon very kindly replaced both callipers under warranty so no complaints with their customer service.

Someone cracking pistons while bleeding brakes is a BIG stretch, IMO it’s not a credible claim at all. Glad to hear they didn’t give any trouble replacing the calipers despite this claim.
 

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