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Thank You Bearing Man and S13. When pedaling, y motor is doing a noise which is no metal "creaking" noise, it is more like a low volume high pitch rubber rub noise, but it is difficult to explain a noise. Do you suspect what can cause this? Just in case I am sourcing bearing extractor, two...

Question to experts: The axle rubber seal in the motor housing that prevents water coming through. What kind of grease does it require, I supose it is some kind of waterproof grease like Motorex Calcium-based yellow fluorescent grease: * Remarkable and long-lasting lubricating performance: *...

Mike, thank you.

Hi S13, It is nice to know that you new bearings are working well. After reading this long thread, I understand that the small bearings 6000 and 6900 are inside the motor with no risk of water ingress so the seal is ZZ (metal) with low friction .BUT the large bearings 6808 (40x52x7mm) and 6805...

Bearingman has it at a reasonable cost: https://www.performancelinebearings.com/product/gear-grease-for-ebike-motors/

According to previous posts: The white grease is MOLYKOTE PG-75 High quality, German manufactured grease. Specifically designed for plastic and metal gears, as found in many ebike motors. To seal the motor case: clean it off with solvent and reseal the case with a thin smear of Blue Hylomar.

Hi MikeAxles, you said that the NOK seals are readily available, but I can not find them in Google, could you please give more info on where to find them. Thank you. PN NOK AG1284E - readily available PN NOK XC2008E - less common - Yamaha PLN242048

What year is your bike and motor?

Hi I have not dissassembled my motor, but I am compiling information to have it ready in case I need it. I have this picture where it looks like it is showing where the needle roller bearings are located. You did a very nice cleaning, it looks like new!!!

SmokeyBear already started the thread below to provide the information about changing Bearings: https://www.emtbforums.com/community/threads/steps-e8000-motor-service.16542/

I believe that the DI2 battery is not required. Only a long cable.

Your issue could have been caused by a bad contact that increased the electrical resistance of the connection, and this resistance and the high current used by the motor caused heat that melt the connector pins. A fix could be to use CONDUCTIVE GREASE like this ( Notice this is NOT Dielectric...

My polish is not too good, so I did not understand a word but it was nice to see the retrofitting. Shimano has stated that they are not selling it aftermarket, that means that it is only available for warranty replacement, I asked in a couple shops and they said the same. But as this might be...

I also saw the listing in this thread, but I can not find it now, but I kept it in a file to have it handy in case I need to replace the bearings, so here it is: 1 x 6808 2rs Sealed Ball bearing 40x52x7mm 1 x 6805 2rs Sealed Ball Bearing 25x37x7mm 3 x 6900 ZZ Shielded Ball Bearing 10x22x6mm 1 x...

@spr0cket can you please show the bearing extractors or any other specific tool that you used to remove and press the bearings.

Where did you get the Shimano statement about warranty replacement of the battery at 80% 500 cycles?

Thd warranty is two years, is provided directly by Shimano and the starting date is the date in your invoice or proof of purchase. This applies for purchasing in stores, but not sure about purchases in ebay. Where did you buy the motor and how much did it the cost?

The location of this connector in the motor is not the best, all grit and dirt goes in it, so it could be that when unplugging it, some grit made its way into the socket. Try to clean it with compressed air and use the Shimano tool to plug it. BTW, new motor EP800 has this conector in vertical...

And a lot to clean later...

I had this problem, during the warranty period and the display was replaced by Shimano