Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[Mteam]

Dude, THANK YOU! I was losing my mind and have basically rebuilt this bike up multiple times trying to get rid of this f@#in creak, found this note and boom, back to silence! Never would have thought to check shock threads if not for this message

Yep, I tried everything before taking the air can off and greasing the threads, it was driving me crazy.

Glad to have helped.

 

[njatherton]

Dude, THANK YOU! I was losing my mind and have basically rebuilt this bike up multiple times trying to get rid of this f@#in creak, found this note and boom, back to silence! Never would have thought to check shock threads if not for this message

I had a creak for a few weeks. Eventually cured it by removing fork & cleaning headset bearings of muck. The integrated headset cups are awful on this bike.

 

[TorAtle]

Has anyone put on fast rolling tyres? What's the best option in 2.6" size (2.5" may be acceptable, even 2.4" ?).

 

[levity]

Has anyone put on fast rolling tyres? What's the best option in 2.6" size (2.5" may be acceptable, even 2.4" ?).

Bontrager XR2 is available in 29x2.6

 

[jabar1975]

Regardless of which type or size of mud guard you use, protect the attachment points. Some mud guards require zip-ties placed through the guard and around the rear triangle. Zip-ties will quickly wear through the paint or the carbon/alloy frame.

A small wrap of heli-tape, electrical tape, Velcro strap, or all the above, where zip ties are used is helpful.

Besides protecting yourself, the dropper post, saddle, frame etc …try to protect the lower pivot area. Get a fender that reaches or slightly extends past this point.

Check SKS Mudrocker - great installation system, additional blade to protect space between upper rear triangle and support

 

[L-P-G]

Anyone else have this noise? In the video the brakes are being used to mimic a rider causing force on the motor.

 

[Stihldog]

Anyone else have this noise? In the video the brakes are being used to mimic a rider causing force on the motor.

Looks/sounds like a motor issue. There’s a few things you can do before a motor replacement, repair or rebuild. Motor mounts, loose chainring, loose crank arm, remove chain to isolate the noise, any motor/bearing play.

The TQ motor should be very quiet …mine is.

 

[Jazzii]

Two of my friends got this sound after first 700-800km. Both motor replaced under warranty.

 

[Troy N]

I just dropped mine off today to have the motor swapped out for the same noise. There was no drama with the warranty process.

 

[tkdbboy]

Linked bolt from trek is standard bolt you can buy anywhere and will cause shock rattling and frame damaging.
We solved it locally, asked garage guys to make few custom 7,99mm stainless steel bolts for us. No gap, rattling, knocking any more even shock bolt is tighten only 10 Ncm.

Just wondering if you have a 3D drawing of this that you supplied or are able to post overseas? I'd like to trying a custom bolt out

 

[Jazzii]

Just wondering if you have a 3D drawing of this that you supplied or are able to post overseas? I'd like to trying a custom bolt out

Sorry dont have any drawing. Best way is to take bike to local garage and ask them to make for you custom size bolt. They will measure bike and shock bushing and will make one for you without gap. We took one size bigger standard stainless steel bolt and made it from that one.

 

[ohiomoto]

What could cause a light grinding/crackling sound when riding up hills? Last year it made a similar noise from the crank/motor area which I fixed by adjusting the Motor Width Compensation bolts. Yesterday I retorqued the motor mount bolts hoping that would fix it. One was slightly loose but tightening it didn't solve the problem. Could the Motor Width Compensation Bolts have twisted out of spec even though the motor mounting bolts were tight? What else could cause a grinding sound when riding uphill? Thanks!

I know you solved this but for the creaking, I always check the crankarms and chainrings first.

Fuel EXe - near new trek EXe with loose cranks creaking.

i have been working on riding off the seat. today a creak that sort of started earlier this week ramped up. when i got back to my RV i checked the crank bolts and both were loose. i’ve seen on the mega thread issues with preparation of these bikes especially bearing and other moving parts poorly...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[ohiomoto]

Just a quick one for anyone experiencing the dreaded creak when pedalling/bouncing up and down etc.

If you've already checked/done the following

-check motor width compensation bolts
-checked motor mount bolts torque
-checked chain ring lock ring torque
-checked all the suspension pivot bolts for torque and grease
-checked/replaced headset bearing
-checked everything that could move on the bike and torn your hair out.

And you still haven't found the cause of the creak, then try unscrewing the air can from the shock, clean and grease the air can threads then screw it back on.

I've been chasing a creak for months now, i tried everything, eventually I took the air can off, greased the threads and refitted it, and now the bike is silent again.

Great tip! I would have never thought to check the air chamber on the shock.

 

[DugT]

......And you still haven't found the cause of the creak, then try unscrewing the air can from the shock, clean and grease the air can threads then screw it back on.

I've been chasing a creak for months now, i tried everything, eventually I took the air can off, greased the threads and refitted it, and now the bike is silent again.

I think my bike has leaky rear shock air can creak but I would call it more of a chirp. It doesn't chirp when I stand on the pedals and bounce. In fact, the chirp is very random and occurs on smooth and rough terrain. My strongest clue that the chirp is coming from the shock is, there is no chirp when I lock out the rear shock. Busted!

It looks easy enough to remove the air can, grease the threads and put it back but maybe I should fully service the shock and replace the gaskets because I have ridden about 100 hours. Does the service really need to be done every 40 hours? It looks like it is a lot of work, by my lazy ass, been retired for decades, standards.

 

[gmoss]

Its good to do at least a lower can service regularly. For me, historically I would service my Fox air shocks lower can once a year. I never noticed a huge improvement so I used that as a baseline. I do notice a big change servicing the lowers on my forks though. I cam to the conclusion that it would be simpler to save my money on the air can services and just send the shock in every yr to 2 yrs depending on ride time and conditions. We don't really get to ride in the wet, but I know a shock is getting close to needing service when I start chasing settings ride to ride, and during rides. Also, not holding air prompts me to service the air can. This approach has served me well for many years. For awhile I was adament about servicing the air can, but when I started noticing the oil in it looked like the oil going back in, I stopped. If you have a leaky shock, need to service, too.

 

[DugT]

It seems the USA is out of the seal service kits for the Fox Float X rear shocks. They are scheduled to become available on July 14, 2024. The Fox part number is 803-04-142. Some of the seals in the older seal kits, which are available, might work.

 

[Emailsucks98]

because I have ridden about 100 hours. Does the service really need to be done every 40 hours? It looks like it is a lot of work, by my lazy ass, been retired for decades, standards.

We're probably doing double the vert/miles in the same time, compared to what we would without motors.
I used to figure yearly fork & shock service on my pedal bikes, but 6 months on eBikes has destroyed some air shocks for me.

Rather than service more frequently, I'm just splitting my riding time up against more bikes & shocks so I can stick with yearly service intervals!

 

[lambbby]

Just removed the battery cover on my fuel exe 9.7 and it looks like there may be some damage to the frame. The carbon is super thin behind the plastic cover and it looks like it's taken a direct hit on the edge of the carbon.

Wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem as downtube protection around this area seems minimal?

 

[XrayZulu]

Yes, my wife's bike had a hit like that in the early days and a cut in the cover. Nothing has developed further.

 

[lambbby]

Yes, my wife's bike had a hit like that in the early days and a cut in the cover. Nothing has developed further.

Thanks good to know. I'll keep an eye on it and maybe use a little araldite to stop it getting worse.
It does seem a very exposed area, should it take a direct hit.

Unfortunately, the only part of the bike where the invisi tape doesn't cover and it's been caught

 

[Emailsucks98]

Years ago in Moab I cased a rock step-down and cracked a Chinese DH carbon rim clear through. Being carbon, the wheel was relatively true. I removed the tire and rim tap and dumped superglue all the way around the crack. Rode the rim for another 6 weeks (until the warranty rim arrived) and had no issues.

I’d keep an eye on that but looks purely cosmetic.

 

[gmoss]

A little clear epoxy would take care of that.

 

[justmyexe]

Has anyone had issues with headset/bearing play on their bike? I have been chasing an off feeling of looseness on my 9.7 and have found there is a tiny amount of play I am unable to get rid of. Feels like either the upper or lower bearing 'cup' area on the frame still has space in there even when everything's tightened and torqued to spec......such a weird headset. It's just 2 bearings that aren't flush, a race, compression sleeve and a top cap that doesn't cover properly

 

[gmoss]

Has anyone had issues with headset/bearing play on their bike? I have been chasing an off feeling of looseness on my 9.7 and have found there is a tiny amount of play I am unable to get rid of. Feels like either the upper or lower bearing 'cup' area on the frame still has space in there even when everything's tightened and torqued to spec......such a weird headset. It's just 2 bearings that aren't flush, a race, compression sleeve and a top cap that doesn't cover properly

Yep, you are better off picking up a quality headset. Check the cups too as I had to nearly press in the CK lower bearing. The CK bearings are thicker/taller too, which helps. I am back to the stock headset for now since I robbed the CK for a bit before building baxk up my normal bike. It will get replaced soon enough, but for now, mine is tight.

 

[Emailsucks98]

Yup, same here. I just replaced the upper assembly with wolftooth, their headsets are great and the premium upper assembly is only $60. Stays tight much longer and quieter than the stock headset. I really dislike the integrated headset standard though. Still comes loose too frequently. My other bikes with press-in headsets have no such problems.

 

[gmoss]

Yup, same here. I just replaced the upper assembly with wolftooth, their headsets are great and the premium upper assembly is only $60. Stays tight much longer and quieter than the stock headset. I really dislike the integrated headset standard though. Still comes loose too frequently. My other bikes with press-in headsets have no such problems.

In years of owning SC bikes, never has an issue with an integrated headset coming loose. Now, if the bearing cup is not precise, I can certainly see that happening.

 

[ragetty]

Looking for options for carrying a 2nd full battery *elsewhere* than in my backpack - anyone attaching one to the frame somehow?

 

[Integralnz]

Looking for options for carrying a 2nd full battery *elsewhere* than in my backpack - anyone attaching one to the frame somehow?

Cargo pants maybe?

 

[njatherton]

Looking for options for carrying a 2nd full battery *elsewhere* than in my backpack - anyone attaching one to the frame somehow?

Somewhere on this forum amongst the 3000+ threads, someone has talked about this & mentioned a backpack that will carry a spare battery and also a top tube bag. You should be able to find it with a search.

 

[Cell4soul]

Looking for options for carrying a 2nd full battery *elsewhere* than in my backpack - anyone attaching one to the frame somehow?

Not the answer you are looking for, but I carry mine in my backpack. The weight isn’t bad at all. I couldn’t imagine putting the extra battery on the frame somewhere.