Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[Mteam]

Not the answer you are looking for, but I carry mine in my backpack. The weight isn’t bad at all. I couldn’t imagine putting the extra battery on the frame somewhere.

Yep, mine goes in the backpack too, it's fine for me.

 

[DugT]

How do you get this axel out of the suspension? I removed the side bolts and the set screws but can't tap out the big axel circled in red below. It looks like the I might have to remove one of the side triangles in the green circle.

 

[Stihldog]

This may sound obvious but …did you completely release the pressure from the shock (or coil, if you use one)?

You should be able to gently remove that pivot axle by lifting the rear triangle slightly (unless it’s frozen in place by rust or dirt).

 

[DugT]

This may sound obvious but …did you completely release the pressure from the shock (or coil, if you use one)?

You should be able to gently remove that pivot axle by lifting the rear triangle slightly (unless it’s frozen in place by rust or dirt).

Thanks! The shock is on and fully pumped up. My excuse is, my previous bikes were hardtails and this is the first time I've tried to do this.

 

[Mteam]

How do you get this axel out of the suspension? I removed the side bolts and the set screws but can't tap out the big axel circled in red below. It looks like the I might have to remove one of the side triangles in the green circle.
View attachment 142521

You need to remove both the linkages (aka side triangles), then you knock the axle out with a drift

 

[Stihldog]

You need to remove both the linkages (aka side triangles), then you knock the axle out with a drift

IMO, this may not be necessary to remove the main pivot bolt or axle. (Unless you’re doing a complete bearing/bushing servic). On most Trek full suspension mtb’s releasing the tension on the shock(psi) is enough to free up the pivot bolt/axle. This can be a critical point and sounds horrible when it’s dry or not working properly.

The chain guard may need to be removed also if you intend to replace those bearings.




When you remove this pivot bolt/ axle, apply enough grease to prevent water ingress and inspect the parts for wear Or corrosion. It can really sound like hell when it’s not working properly.

On my Rail I re-grease this area on a regular basis (or constant use, 1-2 times a year). My Fuel EXE doesn’t have enough kms yet…it’s too new .

 

[Mteam]

IMO, this may not be necessary to remove the main pivot bolt or axle. (Unless you’re doing a complete bearing/bushing servic). On most Trek full suspension mtb’s releasing the tension on the shock(psi) is enough to free up the pivot bolt/axle. This can be a critical point and sounds horrible when it’s dry or not working properly.

The chain guard may need to be removed also if you intend to replace those bearings.

View attachment 142546

View attachment 142547
When you remove this pivot bolt/ axle, apply enough grease to prevent water ingress and inspect the parts for wear Or corrosion. It can really sound like hell when it’s not working properly.

On my Rail I re-grease this area on a regular basis (or constant use, 1-2 times a year). My Fuel EXE doesn’t have enough kms yet…it’s too new .

The diagram from the service manual shown above is wrong, the two bearings that the axle rotates on are not held in the linkages (as the diagram implies) they're in the frame, so you can't push that axle out without removing the linkages first.

You can see in this image of the linkage that the linkage has no room for the bearings, the bearings are in the frame. The other bearings that the shock rotates on and that the seat stay rotates on are in the linkage as per my screenshot, but the axle bearings are not.

 

[Stihldog]

The diagram from the service manual shown above is wrong, the two bearings that the axle rotates on are not held in the linkages (as the diagram implies) they're in the frame, so you can't push that axle out without removing the linkages first.

You can see in this image of the linkage that the linkage has no room for the bearings, the bearings are in the frame. The others bearing, that the shock rotates on and that the seat stay rotates on are in the linkage, but the axle bearings are not.

View attachment 142550

I agree, the diagram is confusing. Releasing the psi to zero by removing the psi valve in the shock is helpful to remove any of these rear suspension parts.

The OP may not have done that step.

 

[DugT]

Thanks for the help! I removed the linkages, checked that the bearings spin freely, lubed everything and put it back together but it still squeaks

When I had it apart, I moved the seat stays and the rear wheel pivots seemed smooth and quiet so I didn't take them apart. It looks like one side requires a special tool.

The Main Pivot is next in line for disassembly. I can pull it out without removing the chainwheel?

 

[Stihldog]

Thanks for the help! I removed the linkages, checked that the bearings spin freely, lubed everything and put it back together but it still squeaks

When I had it apart, I moved the seat stays and the rear wheel pivots seemed smooth and quiet so I didn't take them apart. It looks like one side requires a special tool.

The Main Pivot is next in line for disassembly. I can pull it out without removing the chainwheel?

Oh man! Chasing a creak or squeak sucks.

Loose seat post or saddle can cause a mystery creak. Headset bearings, proper torque, seated properly? Crank arms? Peddles?

I’m just spit-balling here but that lower pivot always seems to need attention.

There is a nut fitted into the frame that may remain in place …removing the chainring may not be necessary.…if you’re careful.

 

[Mteam]

Oh man! Chasing a creak or squeak sucks.

Loose seat post or saddle can cause a mystery creak. Headset bearings, proper torque, seated properly? Crank arms? Peddles?

I’m just spit-balling here but that lower pivot always seems to need attention.

There is a nut fitted into the frame that may remain in place …removing the chainring may not be necessary.…if you’re careful.

I posted on here a while ago about a creak that I had been chasing for months, I took the whole bike apart, cleaning, greasing and replacing bearings as I went, but nothing fixed it.


In the end it turned out to be the air can on the shock, it needed unscrewing and the threads greasing. I'm not saying this is the cause of this creak, but it's actually not too hard to take the air can off and grease the threads, so might be worth a try.

 

[DugT]

I posted on here a while ago about a creak that I had been chasing for months, I took the whole bike apart, cleaning, greasing and replacing bearings as I went, but nothing fixed it.


In the end it turned out to be the air can on the shock, it needed unscrewing and the threads greasing. I'm not saying this is the cause of this creak, but it's actually not too hard to take the air can off and grease the threads, so might be worth a try.

I thought that was the problem with my bike but yesterday I had the air can of the shock serviced but the creak is still there.

 

[DugT]

My squeak is gone! A woman I know said it could just be dust. I was very skeptical (not just because she is only a woman -joke) but I hosed it off, rode it, and the squeak was gone. I thought maybe water got into the squeaking area and was temporarily lubricating it so I waited a couple of hours for it to dry and rode it again and it's still quiet. Maybe Mteam should add "Dust" to his list of things that cause a bike to squeak. Thanks to everyone who encouraged me to learn how to lube the suspension. That is good to know.

 

[gmoss]

Haha. I am.always amazed at how much better a clean and lubed bike rides vs a dirty bike, quieter too. Reminds me, I need to clean my bike. LOL

 

[Stihldog]

My squeak is gone! A woman I know said it could just be dust. I was very skeptical (not just because she is only a woman -joke) but I hosed it off, rode it, and the squeak was gone. I thought maybe water got into the squeaking area and was temporarily lubricating it so I waited a couple of hours for it to dry and rode it again and it's still quiet. Maybe Mteam should add "Dust" to his list of things that cause a bike to squeak. Thanks to everyone who encouraged me to learn how to lube the suspension. That is good to know.

"Hasta la vista, baby".

But where did the creak go?

 

[DugT]

"Hasta la vista, baby".

But where did the creak go?

Good question. To be perfectly honest, I don't know where creaks go when they die. But, I can tell you this, there is no god.

Seriously, what would be a likely source of a creak that could be washed away with water? My wild uneducated guess is the fork. I just hope the creak is still dead.

 

[Emailsucks98]

I just hope the creak is still dead.

I’d wager it will be back.
I did like 3 complete rebuilds on my Fuel when I first got it, creak-hunting, it’s been quiet since. Free-hub, headset, cranks and pedals were the the main offenders on mine.

 

[DugT]

I’d wager it will be back.
I did like 3 complete rebuilds on my Fuel when I first got it, creak-hunting, it’s been quiet since. Free-hub, headset, cranks and pedals were the the main offenders on mine.

I'd wager you are correct but so far so good. I did my regular ride today and it didn’t creak. If it ever creaks again, I will wash it one section at a time and then test for creak to narrow down the source. Once I find the source, I will have my results published in Scientific American.

 

[Swingset]

I guess I never really contemplated the fact that the main battery has 360 watts or 180 if divided by two. The range extender is 160 watts. When plugged in and fully juiced up the display reads 150% even though 20 watts is missing. What I do notice is that the RE seems to drain at a higher rate from 150% down to say 135%. Perhaps some software correction?

 

[ragetty]

Somewhere on this forum amongst the 3000+ threads, someone has talked about this & mentioned a backpack that will carry a spare battery and also a top tube bag. You should be able to find it with a search.

… I had already seen both - evoc backpack and a beer can tube that is NLA.

I have the obvious solution (backpack) and I also have a hip bag where I can strap the battery to the outside … so far so good.

I was looking (hoping) for interesting alternatives.

 

[ohiomoto]

Voile straps are a hit with the bikepacking crowd. Or maybe look at some of the handlebar bags/rolls for inspiration.

 

[Stihldog]

I'd wager you are correct but so far so good. I did my regular ride today and it didn’t creak. If it ever creaks again, I will wash it one section at a time and then test for creak to narrow down the source. Once I find the source, I will have my results published in Scientific American.

I don't know if you found the creak. I don't know if you want to. If you are looking for the creak I can tell you we might not be able to help you.

But your creak may have very particular set of skills. Skills it has acquired over a very long career. Skills that make it a nightmare for people like you. If you find the creak know that'll be the end of it. It will not haunt you, It will not pursue you. But if you don't find the creak, It will look for you, it will find you and it will pursue you.

Good Luck

 

[DugT]

I don't know if you found the creak. I don't know if you want to. If you are looking for the creak I can tell you we might not be able to help you.

But your creak may have very particular set of skills. Skills it has acquired over a very long career. Skills that make it a nightmare for people like you. If you find the creak know that'll be the end of it. It will not haunt you, It will not pursue you. But if you don't find the creak, It will look for you, it will find you and it will pursue you.

Good Luck

Do you have some Special recreational drugs up there in BC? That is where I was born by the way, five days before Wayne Wong and in the same hospital. Still, I'm not Wayne Wong.

 

[Stihldog]

Wayne Wong? The skier?

 

[DugT]

Yes

Wayne Wong? The skier?

Yes. He skies at the ski areas near Lake Tahoe and I see him occasionally.

 

[Stihldog]

Do you have some Special recreational drugs up there in BC?

I smell the occasional aroma of fun-smoke while I’m out riding.AND… I may have overdosed on chocolate before …I blame the Swiss.

 

[tkdbboy]

Sorry dont have any drawing. Best way is to take bike to local garage and ask them to make for you custom size bolt. They will measure bike and shock bushing and will make one for you without gap. We took one size bigger standard stainless steel bolt and made it from that one.

Can you provide a photo of the head? I believe the hex bolt is a bigger one since it was machined down?

 

[Jazzii]

Can you provide a photo of the head? I believe the hex bolt is a bigger one since it was machined down?

Orignal shock bolt head is with hex for 6mm alen key. Bolts we made custom ones from where bigger - M10, so have head for 8mm alen key. You machine down just outer diameter, you dont touch hex.

 

[tkdbboy]

Orignal shock bolt head is with hex for 6mm alen key. Bolts we made custom ones from where bigger - M10, so have head for 8mm alen key. You machine down just outer diameter, you dont touch hex.

Can you provide a photo of the head out of curiosity? Just talking to some guys that can do this job but a visual of how much gap between hex thread and edge of bolt would help.
Also a measurement of the bolt head diameter would be great too. It should be around 12.8-13mm

 

[Yobbo]

I have to remove the wheels from my Fuel Exe 3-4 times a week to move it in a small car, so I am wanting to change the standard axle and removable hex key set up to an integral lever type quick release axle for convenience. The standard removable Hex key lever either gets lost on a ride (twice), gets miss-placed somewhere or gets accidentally left at home, hence why I want a QR axle with an integral lever.

The front axle is easy to do as Rockshox/SRAM do a very reliable Maxle ultimate quick release for the Lyrik which I have on several of my mountain bikes. However, the rear axle is a total nightmare to obtain a quick release as the standard axle despite being Boost spacing has a slightly longer than usual 185mm overall length and more importantly uses an M12 x 1.0 pitch thread which is quite rare on MTB axles, so I am struggling to find a suitable quick release.

Has anyone found a quick release Rear axle for a Carbon Fuel EXE where the lever isn't removable ?