Logic was that when you want to make inner exact diameter within 0,01 mm (for example 7,88mm) its difficult, because tool presses to thin wall of rotating alu sleeve from inside…. Instead they took existing M10 ss bolt from shelf, took down it on lathe to 7,99mm, did 6mm long M8 thread and job was done within minutes. Anyway, there is for sure more solitions, aim is to make the gap between bolt and sleeve about 0,01mm.
Do like they do in prison.
Thanks good observation! Never even realised this.
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, that’s a nice little upgrade …especially for carbon bars.
Same here seems a waste to have a fancy carbon shmarbon bar stem you can do nothing with but .......First thing I replaced on my Exe was the handlebar/stem.
1: my light mount would not fit next to the stem where I like it.
2: you can not roll the bars to your prefered position.
Plus, I managed to sell the bars for more than it cost to replace them
Yes renthal bar and a nukeproof stem its just more adjustable in terms of bar angle
Believe it or not precision bolts are quite common ,maybe your looking at stock iso bolts , stripper bolts (yes i recall thats the name) are precision ground in various tolerances we use mainly h7 in titanium , theyre a standard tolerance, i think engineers in general expect so much more, I often wonder when the bike world is going to up its game on products that can cost 10k + then figure its a mass produced item built to a price with a 30-40 percent markup at retail put to gether by people often working for the love of bikes not a top flite salary plus the shop discount just so they can afford to ride. My honda cost 6k in comparison
What was your choice? I am looking at OneUp Carbon (eMTB or 35).First thing I replaced on my Exe was the handlebar/stem.
1: my light mount would not fit next to the stem where I like it.
2: you can not roll the bars to your prefered position.
Plus, I managed to sell the bars for more than it cost to replace them
Refreshing this a bit. Did a tolerance stack a while back. There are two sources of play on the bolt. The shock bushing and the frame. You cant solve the frame sloppiness unless you match ream everything to a new bolt size. You need to clamp the orange bushing to the frame to reduce the frame bore tolerance issue. The frame fitting is very stiff and you need to make sure you have the widest/closest fitting bushing possible.
I can answer my own question. After a great deal of searching I couldn't find an off-the-shelf 12mm rear axle with a fully integrated quick release lever to replace the standard removable lever set-up. What I did instead was to buy a fat bike 12mm integrated lever QR axle that is way too long for the Fuel EXE. I then cut it to the required 185mm length and using a die with an M12x1.0 pitch I cut the thread onto the axle myself.
That's terrible, probably not actually super unsafe (but not safe either) , but you could do damage to the shock or linkage if you rode it like that for a significant period.
I think I purchased my lyric fork decals from Silk Graphics, based out of the UK maybe? After they helped me solve logistics of delivery to Canada …I was happy with their service. There seemed to be lots of colour/favor options.
Yes I’ve bought from them before they are really good, Nukeproof were able to tell me the exact colour but Trek not so helpful.
The problem is the color comes from the tint in the clear. It can vary and changes with the light. I'd say Slik is as likely as anyone to have something close.
If I was you, I would use the search option for those options. You may get more traffic or answers for specific questions.
Are you looking for theft or fire replacement? Not sure why your content coverage wouldn’t cover a bike.
