Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[The Reverend]

I know it is somewhere in this forum, but hoping not to read back numerous pages for the answer. My EXe just started the bottom bracket creek. Is this a motor mount torque issue, chain ring or pedals? Depending on which this is, what tools are needed to correct the issue. What is the torque spec? I really appreciate the response and saving me time from digging through pages (I did try the search feature).

Mine used to creak like a farm gate. It'll be the first two and not the latter most likely.

I took mine to Trek to solve it, it took a few goes but they got there. I don't know what the settings are.

 

[DBSwiss]

I just had a firmware update. It is dealer only and it cost $29.99.

I didn’t get charged for a firmware update. That seems silly to me As likely the update corrects issues from previous versions and doesn’t add features.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

A quick update from my EXe:
Since I take very care of the frame, I used a protection film.
After my first long tour, I checked again for chafing spots. And found some:

I placed some slapper tape on the main frame, between the link.
The sensor cable was chafing.

View attachment 117905

Second charf spot is the rear brake line:
Charing spots on the lower and upper chainstay.
I used a second layer film. Should last a while.
(of corse I used cable ties, the pic is done without and then tied up again)
Also I noticed when riding in high (flipchip) the tention is higher and the chafing is also stronger.

View attachment 117906

View attachment 117908


Third is the AXS Cable:
This is not a mayor problem.
I used some more slaper tape....

View attachment 117912

The rear brake hose def moves a lot when suspension cycles. For sure something to watch.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

I think I am going to change my order from the range extender to the battery and get the Evoc E-Bike backpack. That would give me 720 wh of battery total. That would get me 40 miles and 5,000' elevation. I could keep one in my truck if I am riding laps. That would be some long rides. Evoc backpack: EVOC FR Trail Hydration Pack with Integrated Back Protection - Evoc Sports USA

Highly recommend a second battery. It's also fairly easy to pick up a portable power station on sale. If you're doing laps at a pedal up bike park or the like, you can recharge the first battery while you're riding the second one. Allows for a huge day with pretty high assist levels on the climbs.

Be aware that the battery is just going to be a battery. For quick swaps, you're going to have to buy all the brackets and screws separately. It was too late by the time I saw the outrageous amount Trek was charging for the screws. If for no other reason than principle, I'd source the screws somewhere else.

AND MAKE SURE TO GET ALL FIRMWARE ON EVERYTHING, INCLUDING THE NEW BATTERY, UPDATED WHEN THE NEW BATTERY ARRIVES.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

I definitely don't disagree with this, but a $7k purchase is a big outlay for me. I don't know if this is a "1 in a 1000" occurrence or very common occurrence. Given my primary criteria is purchasing a emtb that offers easy no-assist pedalling, this unfortunately does become a factor in my decision making process.

Does anyone know if this phenomena occurs from the get-go or develops over time? That is, if I bought the bike today, would I experience the issue during my 30 day return period or could it develop over time post my 30 day window?

Outside of a very, very small handful of exceptions, every product you purchase from the bike industry has at least a 1 in a 1000 chance of suffering from quality control issues. Granted most don't cost $7,000.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

I did get the chainguide on the stock build, yes. The Bolts have already rusted on it though
View attachment 114375

I had some good news about the wheels this week. Trek replaced them with a Bontrager Line Elite 30 Carbon wheelset and XT cassette under warranty. It took a little over a month for them to be replaced but a good end result I think. While it was away, I asked about the headset and the workshop guy said it was fine.

Will look to swap the top part out for something that seals better, like the one mentioned above (thank you!)

I swapped those bolts. Had some that fit in my old/spare bolt jar. Forget if they were old SPD cleat bolts, water bottle bolts, etc., but should be easy to find some that aren't crap.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

Is it still not possible to reprogram TQ for a 27.5 rear wheel to get accurate speed readings after mullet conversion?

I can't imagine this will ever be possible, as it would be an easy and obvious way to bypass the 20 mph cutoff.

Before you commit to a mullet setup, go look at some geometry charts and compare the BB height on the EXe to other frames with similar travel. EXe BB is really low. "High" is more like "normal."

 

[DancingWithMyself]

But the actual chainring Is One piece and has no bolts, maybe i should buy One with a spider to mount the bashring

That's what you have to do. At least as of early this year, you order the spider from FSA.

Based on my experience, I think it may be the case that the E13 ring on the lower-end models is at 53mm and an FSA spider with a bashring takes it to 55mm. Or at least I had to space the chain guide outboard with some washers. Got mine in early October.

It looks a little janky, but you can just remove the outer "plate" of the chain guide and still use the inner part. Haven't gotten around to dremmeling the thing to clean up the aesthetics.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

Time to upgrade suspension!
Have an EXe 9.8 AXS in Large, running a Fox 38 160mm in front, and now looking to upgrade rear shock to a Fox DHX2 205x65 Trunnion. From what I've read, this increase in stroke will not cause any clearance and bump up travel to 152mm? Anyone with experience on this?
Also, looking for advise on spring rate - Im 88kg(194lbs) riding mostly aggressive enduro on flat pedals. Now also going to give E-enduro racing a try - good challenge for a light e-mtb
Thanks in advance!

First off, if you ride aggressively, you're going to need a progressive spring. I think the bike is barely over 20%.

As far as bumping up travel, on my large, plenty of room to run a 65mm stroke. Solid 5mm+ of clearance between seat stay bridge and seat tube, even in low. That's based on a 205x65 X2 with all the air out and all my weight on the saddle. Pre 2022, so had the smaller bottom out bumper.

I've got an MRP Hazzard that I can share with another bike. On the EXe, I use a 2.5mm stroke limiter and run it at 62.5mm, paired with a 160mm air shaft in my Lyrik. You may be aware, but on a coil you just clip the stroke limiter to the shaft. Don't even have to remove the shock from the bike to clip them on and off.

I'd pick up a 2.5 and 5mm along with the shock so you can look at clearance for yourself and play around. But be aware that with the bottom out bumper on a coil, it's going to be really hard if not impossible to accurately gauge clearance.

I'm 215 on flats riding fairly aggressively and running a 450 progressive from MRP. Tried a 500 linear, but so supportive I felt like I lost a lot of benefits of the coil on my local trails. Plus, I ended up with compression backed almost all the way out. Didn't mesh well with the fork settings.

If MRP made a 475 progressive, I think that would be my absolute sweat spot. But quite happy on the 450 progressive. Middle-ish on compression settings so I can adjust there based on the riding.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

I didn’t get charged for a firmware update. That seems silly to me As likely the update corrects issues from previous versions and doesn’t add features.

The charge is ridiculous. I'd only set foot in that shop again when you absolutely have to for warranty or related issues.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

Sorry for the barrage of posts, but I haven't been on here in a while. This is many, many, many times over the most useful thread I've ever seen for any of the bikes I've ever owned.. Greatly appreciate all that I've learned and want to do what I can to give back.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

Mine used to creak like a farm gate. It'll be the first two and not the latter most likely.

I took mine to Trek to solve it, it took a few goes but they got there. I don't know what the settings are.

It's not what you want to hear, but the proper way to do it, for pretty much every single manufacturer, but especially those that don't assemble in the US, is to strip it down to the point of taking apart all of the suspension pivots and then put it all back together properly with grease, loctite, correct torque, etc. Just assume nothing was done right.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

Yeah, another classic ride last night on mine. Left the house thinking I'd do a short ride but conditions were so good I ended up doing 20 miles, 3,600'. As much as I love having the flexibility of 2 batteries, this was a 1-battery ride and one is enough for weekday rides of this length, for me. All black & dbl-black descents and this bike rides so well, it's playful & poppy like a good non-eBike, flickable in corners, easy to hop & redirect, but the climbs go so much faster. The battery finally quit when my house was in sight

I did have the stock L crank arm come loose yet again. Tightened on the trail, but this is like the 8th time. I think it's time to replace them, pondering the E13 helix vs the 5dev. Don't really want to give up the chainguide.

I've been having to keep an eye on the nondrive crank arm as well.

Useful thing I have to add is that I ordered new bolts from E13 to see if those helped. I have no idea what stupid, proprietary bullshit Trek engage in, but the head size on the E13 bolts is different and they don't fit. I even talked to E13 about it, and they said the ones I ordered should fit. But they don't. CSS30-113

Haven't gotten around to chasing this down with Trek. For now, just threw a lot of loctite at the issue and checking frequently.

On a much less useful and more personal note, crank arms have always seemed to me like just about the least sensible spot on the entire bike to spend a bunch of money. If you can get the length you want from E13, I'd go with those. They're the only OEM part still on my bike.

 

[Emailsucks98]

It's not what you want to hear, but the proper way to do it, for pretty much every single manufacturer, but especially those that don't assemble in the US, is to strip it down to the point of taking apart all of the suspension pivots and then put it all back together properly with grease, loctite, correct torque, etc. Just assume nothing was done right.

Agreed! It used to be, standard practice for any new bike/frame was to strip it, face the head tube, face&chase the BB threads & rebuild. True & retention wheels, etc etc.

Look at the WC DH racers that are getting suspension & wheel rebuilds and new tires every few runs.

I was talking with a friend that services/sells commercial espresso machines recently- machines typically over $15k each. He mentioned that each new machine really needs to be completely rebuilt. All the same sorts of issues- parts under/over-tightened, no lube, packaging left inside, lack of prep, sloppy wiring work.

I wonder if, people are just losing the skills & appetite to maintain mechanical things.

 

[Piccirilli]

First off, if you ride aggressively, you're going to need a progressive spring. I think the bike is barely over 20%.

As far as bumping up travel, on my large, plenty of room to run a 65mm stroke. Solid 5mm+ of clearance between seat stay bridge and seat tube, even in low. That's based on a 205x65 X2 with all the air out and all my weight on the saddle. Pre 2022, so had the smaller bottom out bumper.

I've got an MRP Hazzard that I can share with another bike. On the EXe, I use a 2.5mm stroke limiter and run it at 62.5mm, paired with a 160mm air shaft in my Lyrik. You may be aware, but on a coil you just clip the stroke limiter to the shaft. Don't even have to remove the shock from the bike to clip them on and off.

I'd pick up a 2.5 and 5mm along with the shock so you can look at clearance for yourself and play around. But be aware that with the bottom out bumper on a coil, it's going to be really hard if not impossible to accurately gauge clearance.

I'm 215 on flats riding fairly aggressively and running a 450 progressive from MRP. Tried a 500 linear, but so supportive I felt like I lost a lot of benefits of the coil on my local trails. Plus, I ended up with compression backed almost all the way out. Didn't mesh well with the fork settings.

If MRP made a 475 progressive, I think that would be my absolute sweat spot. But quite happy on the 450 progressive. Middle-ish on compression settings so I can adjust there based on the riding.

Interesting comment about the stoke limit spacers on coil shocks. Could you accurately test bottom out clearance by removing the coil from the shock? Regarding progressive spring, have you looked into Cane Creeks progressive coil? One other person here recently posted a pic using one.

 

[Rorschach84]

Hi All
I've been lurking on the forum for a little bit gathering some info, but last week pulled the pin on a Fuel EX-e 9.5
They're down to 8k down under, and with the new Levo SL coming in at 12k a relative bargain. The Deore drivetrain doesn't bother me as I have it on my other bikes and it's bulletproof.
Anyway, I took the brakes, wheels, forks and cockpit straight off for a set of TRP G-Spec DH-R brakes, DT EX511, Durolux 36 and Enve bars. The dropper will be swapped out for a 200mm at some point (the lever is trash and already has a replacement on the way!), and the rear shock will go piggyback down the track too. I may grab some reach back with a higher rise stem, but this'll do for now until I dial it in.
Considering the 9.7 is 11.5k I'm really happy with it as I've spent way less than that on it - and the matte black is a killer paintjob!

 

[DancingWithMyself]

Interesting comment about the stoke limit spacers on coil shocks. Could you accurately test bottom out clearance by removing the coil from the shock? Regarding progressive spring, have you looked into Cane Creeks progressive coil? One other person here recently posted a pic using one.

I didn't try to measure with the coil removed, but I think the bottom out bumper on a coil might be a problem. Much larger than on an air shock. I've heard about people taking the bottom out bumper on and off over the bottom eyelet. I think that might make a cushcore pro install seem like child's play, but I've never tried.

Didn't look at CC progressive springs as I already had the MRP.

Don't have a ton of experience with coils, but here's my two cents. The sensitivity and traction is amazing (especially if you ride flats), but I always adjust the compression before sessioning jumps. You lose some pop. Especially compared to the ticking time bomb that is an X2, they are super reliable and low maintenance - which is a double plus for an ebike.

But plan on buying at least two springs and doing fair bit of testing and tweaking to get the initial setup dialed. Definitely do a good bit of research on the effects of spring preload, whether you want to try running a touch less sag compared to air, etc.

Also, with the EXe, you've got to pull the eyelet hardware to swap springs. So you'll need to be comfortable doing that.

I have the new Super Deluxe Ultimate on my 5010. If I were to go buy a shock for the EXe for the riding it sees 95% of the time, I'd be real tempted to buy one of those and call it a day (and run the coil on trips). Running the coil because it was on a trip bike and wasn't seeing much use.

 

[Balboa]

ring o

ike. On the EXe, I use a 2.5mm stroke limiter and run it at 62.5mm, paired with a 160mm air shaft in my Lyrik. You may be aware, but on a coil you just clip the stroke limiter to the shaft. Don't even have to remove the shock from the bike to clip them on and off.

I've been having to keep an eye on the nondrive crank arm as well.

Useful thing I have to add is that I ordered new bolts from E13 to see if those helped. I have no idea what stupid, proprietary bullshit Trek engage in, but the head size on the E13 bolts is different and they don't fit. I even talked to E13 about it, and they said the ones I ordered should fit. But they don't. CSS30-113

Haven't gotten around to chasing this down with Trek. For now, just threw a lot of loctite at the issue and checking frequently.

On a much less useful and more personal note, crank arms have always seemed to me like just about the least sensible spot on the entire bike to spend a bunch of money. If you can get the length you want from E13, I'd go with those. They're the only OEM part still on my bike.

Last weekend the left crank came loose again. Had to fix it on the trail, but happend 2 times more that day. Really annoying. Did some loctite on the crank at home. Hopefully this will do the trick. Buying new cranks to fix this problem is ridiculous.

Last week I went to the LBS to pick up my range extender. Sadly they hadn't ordered the bolts and didn't know how to update the bike and extender. Checked it out on the bike, and saw the error code. It's is a fairly big LBS and it was very busy at the moment, but next time I will give them a call in advance so they can sort it out.

 

[KevinNY]

Last weekend the left crank came loose again. Had to fix it on the trail, but happend 2 times more that day. Really annoying. Did some loctite on the crank at home. Hopefully this will do the trick. Buying new cranks to fix this problem is ridiculous.

Last week I went to the LBS to pick up my range extender. Sadly they hadn't ordered the bolts and didn't know how to update the bike and extender. Checked it out on the bike, and saw the error code. It's is a fairly big LBS and it was very busy at the moment, but next time I will give them a call in advance so they can sort it out.

Which crank do you have? I haven't had this issue on my Fuel EXe (with carbon E13 cranks) but I had the left pedal go loose on my Fuel EX GEN6 E13 carbon cranks. Totally messed up the thread insert on the crank but E13 was great and warranty replaced it right away.

I religiously check the torque after every few rides on both bikes now. Torque specs stamped on the E13 carbon cranks call for 31-34Nm. If you have a different crank, check the specs and torque it to see if it resolves your issues.

 

[JP-NZ]

Anyway, I took the brakes, wheels, forks and cockpit straight off for a set of TRP G-Spec DH-R brakes, DT EX511, Durolux 36 and Enve bars. The dropper will be swapped out for a 200mm at some point (the lever is trash and already has a replacement on the way!), and the rear shock will go piggyback down the track too. I may grab some reach back with a higher rise stem, but this'll do for now until I dial it in.
Considering the 9.7 is 11.5k I'm really happy with it as I've spent way less than that on it - and the matte black is a killer paintjob!

The matte does look good, interesting prices over there in Australia. Here in New Zealand the 9.5 is the same around $7900 but the 9.7 is $9,499 and 9.8XT is $11,499. Certainly cheaper to just buy the higher models unless you have parts already to go

 

[mmcengineer]

Agreed! It used to be, standard practice for any new bike/frame was to strip it, face the head tube, face&chase the BB threads & rebuild. True & retention wheels, etc etc.

Look at the WC DH racers that are getting suspension & wheel rebuilds and new tires every few runs.

I was talking with a friend that services/sells commercial espresso machines recently- machines typically over $15k each. He mentioned that each new machine really needs to be completely rebuilt. All the same sorts of issues- parts under/over-tightened, no lube, packaging left inside, lack of prep, sloppy wiring work.

I wonder if, people are just losing the skills & appetite to maintain mechanical things.

Two sides to this argument, bike industry pays peanuts, why risk trying to maintain a 10k bike when the shop paying the guy peanuts can pick up the tab if they balls it up

 

[Emailsucks98]

Two sides to this argument, bike industry pays peanuts, why risk trying to maintain a 10k bike when the shop paying the guy peanuts can pick up the tab if they balls it up

Also: even if the shop builds it up right, it's gonna need a full overhaul after 3, 5, 10, 100 rides.
I don't have a lot of sympathy for people who can't chase down a loose bolt, but will bitch about it creaking on the internet.

(edit: no disrespect meant towards those who have had legit issues, or come here seeking knowledge. It’s only the whining on about trivial & cosmetic issues that‘s gotten old)

 

[Rorschach84]

The matte does look good, interesting prices over there in Australia. Here in New Zealand the 9.5 is the same around $7900 but the 9.7 is $9,499 and 9.8XT is $11,499. Certainly cheaper to just buy the higher models unless you have parts already to go

Is that in AUD? The Trek NZ site shows the 9.5 at NZD10.5k?
The 9.5 is on sale here at 8k down from 10k, but even so the 9.7 is 11.5k, and you could get a much better bike throwing 3.5k at the 9.5

 

[JP-NZ]

Is that in AUD? The Trek NZ site shows the 9.5 at NZD10.5k?
The 9.5 is on sale here at 8k down from 10k, but even so the 9.7 is 11.5k, and you could get a much better bike throwing 3.5k at the 9.5

Nobody is paying retail (Trek website prices) I would have thought bikes would be cheaper over there, larger market and all

9.5 = $7889 NZD or $7269 AUD 2023 Trek Fuel EXe 9.5 Deore 29" Electric MTB Matte Dnister Black

9.7 = $9499 NZD or $8753 AUD 2023 Trek Fuel EXe 9.7 SLX/XT 29" Electric MTB Matte Galactic Grey/Black

If you could have got a 9.7 for $9500 AUD would you have grabbed it? $1500 is a lot more tolerable than $3500!

 

[Rorschach84]

Nobody is paying retail (Trek website prices) I would have thought bikes would be cheaper over there, larger market and all

9.5 = $7889 NZD or $7269 AUD 2023 Trek Fuel EXe 9.5 Deore 29" Electric MTB Matte Dnister Black

9.7 = $9499 NZD or $8753 AUD 2023 Trek Fuel EXe 9.7 SLX/XT 29" Electric MTB Matte Galactic Grey/Black

If you could have got a 9.7 for $9500 AUD would you have grabbed it? $1500 is a lot more tolerable than $3500!

Wow, that's some solid pricing! Generally the prices are set across the board so there isn't discounting like that
I did ask if they'd do it cheaper (always do, don't ask and you don't get!) but the answer was it's on sale and frankly it's still a good price. If the 9.7 was discounted I'd have looked at that as it's got a decent spec and likely would have still swapped the wheels, cockpit and forks out for my current ones and left the brakes alone, so there isn't much in it.
Might help get a better price from my analogue bike though

 

[JP-NZ]

Wow, that's some solid pricing! Generally the prices are set across the board so there isn't discounting like that

Nearly every bike store over here does discounting like that (apart from covid times of course when bikes seemed to increase wildly in price).

I would say the 2-3 big box retailers here in NZ pretty much get told by Trek that its 20% off RRP, sometimes 25% if its end of line/clearance. NZ doesn't have 'Trek" branded stores like Australia does either

 

[Rorschach84]

Nearly every bike store over here does discounting like that (apart from covid times of course when bikes seemed to increase wildly in price).

I would say the 2-3 big box retailers here in NZ pretty much get told by Trek that its 20% off RRP, sometimes 25% if its end of line/clearance. NZ doesn't have 'Trek" branded stores like Australia does either

Ah, maybe thats why. We have Trek Stores here, as well as dealers and the pricing is pretty set.
That said, I always ask and have had a decent discount on my current frame and roadie

 

[toni_90]

Hi everyone!

I know there is a dedicated thread for the TQ motor clicking sound issue:

Tq hpr50 clicking sound

I owe scott lumen 900, while i pedal alot with assistance turned off, i hear ticking noise from motor when right pedal is between 10 and 12 hour, i check all, change pedals, torque bolts, chainrings, cranks...all, i noticed when i turn on assistance even on most little possible setting ticking...

www.emtbforums.com

However, I guess I can reach out to more people here - I would like to get a feeling if this problem is only limited to a few motors or if it is spread over the whole fleet. Can you please share your experiences with that issue?

A lot of people mentioned that they had the problem and got a new motor and it came back after a certain mileage.

Does anyone have any details about what is going on/ wrong in the motor (mechanically), causing the clicking sound?

Thx

 

[DancingWithMyself]

Also: even if the shop builds it up right, it's gonna need a full overhaul after 3, 5, 10, 100 rides.
I don't have a lot of sympathy for people who can't chase down a loose bolt, but will bitch about it creaking on the internet.

(edit: no disrespect meant towards those who have had legit issues, or come here seeking knowledge. It’s only the whining on about trivial & cosmetic issues that‘s gotten old)

Agreed. The "if the shop builds it up right" is a very important and wildly underappreciated caveat. Unless you have a really, really good shop that sells and services a lot of high end mountain bikes (and ideally a personal relationship with a mechanic), the chances the random guy at the shop is a top notch mechanic and meticulous are pretty damn low.

And even then, they're always going to be on the clock. When you do the initial tear down, I'm a firm believer you should be prying off the seals of the pivot bearings and packing them full of really good grease. I'm going to guess that doesn't happen at very many shops.

And unless you have a truly magnificent local shop, go in and ask them about burnishing the bushings in your fork and see what sort of look you get. But the chances are at least 9 of 10 that doing so would absolutely transform your fork. Quality control and tolerances on bushings are not good.

But there are exceptions. For example, I wouldn't normally buy a bike that called for bearings to be pressed into carbon holes, and I'll damned sure be letting the shop do that when the time comes.

 

[JP-NZ]

Agreed. The "if the shop builds it up right" is a very important and wildly underappreciated caveat. Unless you have a really, really good shop that sells and services a lot of high end mountain bikes (and ideally a personal relationship with a mechanic), the chances the random guy at the shop is a top notch mechanic and meticulous are pretty damn low.

I'm quite lucky in the LBS I purchased my Rail from is "high end" I'd actually call it a bike boutique. Hell they have a Lamborghini parked in the middle of the store haha. Sells high end brands

Scott/Bold
Santa Cruz
Ibis
Rocky Mountain
Trek
Roadies - Colnago, Pinarello, Factor & chapter2

Can fully understand the sentiment though because anytime you walk into a big chain bike store over here you just feel like a number.