Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[CJaMTB]

Need some help please folks. I need the chainring spider, which comes on the SRAM drivetrain-equipped bikes, but can not find it for love nor money. I thought it was the FSA W0108, but the interface looks completely different to that which came off my bike.

Please help!!!

 

[prometeo72]

Hi everyone. The display on my fuel ex-e gets shaded every time I start pedalling it seems, especially on the borders. Something similar happens if I lightly touch the screen with my fingers. I tried to take a picture. You can see it on the borders of the assistance bars and on the right part of the battery bar. Here it is not so evident because as soon as I stopped pedaling to take the picture the effects rapidly started to disappear. Anyone experienced something similar? It seems like a defective screen.... Otherwise everything is working fine...

 

[mitea]

Hi everyone. The display on my fuel ex-e gets shaded every time I start pedalling it seems, especially on the borders. Something similar happens if I lightly touch the screen with my fingers. I tried to take a picture. You can see it on the borders of the assistance bars and on the right part of the battery bar. Here it is not so evident because as soon as I stopped pedaling to take the picture the effects rapidly started to disappear. Anyone experienced something similar? It seems like a defective screen.... Otherwise everything is working fine...

View attachment 104077

Starting to pedal is likely to cause some voltage drops that are propageted to the display and it seems to be very reactive to that. Not sure if this is normal. I dont hope so. Maybe ask others to check. I think TQ will have added something like support capacitors to filter out such drops. Maybe a defective part (capacitor) on the pcb somewhere could be the reason?

 

[DBSwiss]

Hi everyone. The display on my fuel ex-e gets shaded every time I start pedalling it seems, especially on the borders. Something similar happens if I lightly touch the screen with my fingers. I tried to take a picture. You can see it on the borders of the assistance bars and on the right part of the battery bar. Here it is not so evident because as soon as I stopped pedaling to take the picture the effects rapidly started to disappear. Anyone experienced something similar? It seems like a defective screen.... Otherwise everything is working fine...

View attachment 104077

I see the same when I push the display.

 

[TopUnit]

I've posted a short video showing the operation of the TQ-HPR50 clutches
It's not official just my interpretation, but I think it's pretty close

 

[KevinNY]

Need some help please folks. I need the chainring spider, which comes on the SRAM drivetrain-equipped bikes, but can not find it for love nor money. I thought it was the FSA W0108, but the interface looks completely different to that which came off my bike.

Please help!!!

The FSA spider part number is 38000563000050. Your Trek dealer can order it. FSA will not sell it direct to consumer. The spider costs about $17 USD.

 

[TopUnit]

For those of you who are interested exactly how the harmonic drive motor works here's a video for you. Now you'll be able to 3D print your own motor in case you have a breakdown on the trail

Nice, but the HPR50 works a little differently to that. The one shown above is a strain wave reduction drive. TQ have a patented design that they call the Harmonic Pin Ring drive, it works differently to other so called Harmonic Drives.
I did a video on the motor including how the Harmonic Pin Ring works. Check it out

 

[jgusta]

IMHO 160/146 (205x62.5 shock). 205x62.5 shock yields 146mm rear travel with good seat stay clearance. 205x65 shock yields 152mm rear travel but frame contact is possible under bottom out flex and could destroy a very valuable frame.

Yeah, even though Rob may get away with it for now, I am a bit hesitant as well. I ran +5mm over stroked shock on my Rail with Pro-rate spring coil and 30% sag with kissing my seat tube to rear end a couple of times on compressive hits, that I said not worth it. +2.5mm stroke has been fine though, so likely do that with Fuel once replace Float X that is bit of a dud for me

 

[aptperson]

Gotta say again, Im extremely happy with the Ohlins TTx1. I think with 140mm travel this bike works really well with a progressive air shock. The TTX1 is their smaller volume option with LSC, rebound and 3-way HSC adjustments. My body weight (lbs) in psi gets me 30% sag. really supple initial stroke and I’ve never felt it bottom out. Running the 62.5mm stroke.

I was curious about the cane creek katsuma air too.

View attachment 103995

Nice setup!

Do you think that there would be clearance for a larger air can? I was thinking of getting the ttx2 air.

 

[rzr]

hey ! how is the bike?
I heard already voices (from mechanics) discouraging buying that bike. Apparantly there is a problem with shock bushing ? that gets loose quite fast. Is that true ?

 

[DBSwiss]

I've posted a short video showing the operation of the TQ-HPR50 clutches
It's not official just my interpretation, but I think it's pretty close

Great animation. Now the question is where the rattle is coming from that many of us hear when the bike is pedaled and the motor is just catching up providing low power output (typically below 20nm)

 

[Emailsucks98]

Nice setup!

Do you think that there would be clearance for a larger air can? I was thinking of getting the ttx2 air.

I’m pretty sure the TTx2 would fit, since many people are running coils on the EXe. I just measured and there’s 14mm between the air can and seat tube, so the air can diameter could increase by nearly twice that.

I do think the TTx1 is the better shock for this bike though. The only difference between the TTx1 and TTx2 is the air can volume. The air can volumes of the ttx1 and ttx2 can overlap depending on volume spacer configuration. I’m running the stock config which is one mid-size volume spacer. You could remove that or use a smaller spacer, if you wanted a more linear feel. You could also get the ttx2 and stuff it full of spacers, and get the same volume as the ttx1 with 0-1 spacers.

So why pick one over the other?
I don’t really understand choosing linear shocks for this 140mm travel bike. It would make sense if you’re really light, like <150lbs. Otherwise, at ~30% sag, feels plush but you’ll be using lots of travel on fairly mellow trails And the bike feels harsh on bigger hits because it uses mid-stroke too easily. This is one reason why I’ve disliked Fox x2’s on several bikes. Also, a more linear shock means a lower BB more often.

Smaller air volume creates more midstroke support, lower pressure to get 30% sag, more mid-stroke support and more travel on reserve for bigger hits.

I could be wrong, but that was my logic. I’d love to try a box of shocks to prove myself wrong

Last thought- I rode the stock super deluxe select+ for a while. As time went on, I added spacers to it to try and get more mid-stroke support. Eventually I concluded what I really wanted was more LSC, and I was using spacers & less sag because the shock didn’t have adjustable LSC. I’m actually running lower pressure in the Ohlins than I was In the select+, which makes me think the TTx1 still has more air volume than the select+.

 

[TopUnit]

Great animation. Now the question is where the rattle is coming from that many of us hear when the bike is pedaled and the motor is just catching up providing low power output (typically below 20nm)

I don't see an obvious explanation for that.
I see that TQ were promising a software fix, I guess that hasn't turned up yet.

 

[socal_rider]

I think today is my lucky day. I was pedaling uphill and felt some wobble in my left e13 crank. I’d hit my left pedal pretty hard yesterday, so I thought maybe I’d bent the pedal spindle. As I got closer to the top it seemed to get worse. I figured I’d investigate at the top. I got to the top and went to unclip and right after I did my left crank fell on the ground. The bolt was still there, but I’d lost the little snap in, beauty ring. I put it back on, tightened it up, and went for another lap.

The next lap up I thought I’d better watch the ground just to see if I could find the little ring. Lo and behold within a few hundred feet of thinking this I found it! So lucky.

Moral of the story. Check your e13 crank arm bolts. Torque is 40 Nm.

 

[DBSwiss]

I think today is my lucky day. I was pedaling uphill and felt some wobble in my left e13 crank. I’d hit my left pedal pretty hard yesterday, so I thought maybe I’d bent the pedal spindle. As I got closer to the top it seemed to get worse. I figured I’d investigate at the top. I got to the top and went to unclip and right after I did my left crank fell on the ground. The bolt was still there, but I’d lost the little snap in, beauty ring. I put it back on, tightened it up, and went for another lap.

The next lap up I thought I’d better watch the ground just to see if I could find the little ring. Lo and behold within a few hundred feet of thinking this I found it! So lucky.

Moral of the story. Check your e13 crank arm bolts. Torque is 40 Nm.

Lucky indeed. Do you have the Al or the carbon cranks?

 

[socal_rider]

Lucky indeed. Do you have the Al or the carbon cranks?

Aluminum cranks

 

[njatherton]

hey ! how is the bike?
I heard already voices (from mechanics) discouraging buying that bike. Apparantly there is a problem with shock bushing ? that gets loose quite fast. Is that true ?

The problem is the lower shock mount bolt (see my previous posts). Trek are aware of the issue according to my Trek lbs.

 

[G-Sport]

Nice, but the HPR50 works a little differently to that. The one shown above is a strain wave reduction drive. TQ have a patented design that they call the Harmonic Pin Ring drive, it works differently to other so called Harmonic Drives.
I did a video on the motor including how the Harmonic Pin Ring works. Check it out

Wow. Very nice video. What prompted putting so much work into that? Much appreciated though.

 

[DBSwiss]

How do I get Cadence to display on the bike?
I saw that I should be able to configure the information that is displayed In the various Menus on the bike.
the setup menu comes up by pushing the ‘on’ button on the display and the ‘down’ button on the handle bar remote concurrently but I can’t figure out how to change anything beyond the mile vs km or the beep vs non-beep settings.
Has anyone successfully changed it?

 

[Mteam]

How do I get Cadence to display on the bike?
I saw that I should be able to configure the information that is displayed In the various Menus on the bike.
the setup menu comes up by pushing the ‘on’ button on the display and the ‘down’ button on the handle bar remote concurrently but I can’t figure out how to change anything beyond the mile vs km or the beep vs non-beep settings.
Has anyone successfully changed it?

I can't change mine either. the tq phone app (as opposed to the trek central app) has options for configuring the different screens,but it doesn't change anything on the fuel exe- maybe it only works on other tq bikes?

 

[BBFII]

How do I get Cadence to display on the bike?
I saw that I should be able to configure the information that is displayed In the various Menus on the bike.
the setup menu comes up by pushing the ‘on’ button on the display and the ‘down’ button on the handle bar remote concurrently but I can’t figure out how to change anything beyond the mile vs km or the beep vs non-beep settings.
Has anyone successfully changed it?

For now, this has to be done by your bike shop with the service tool.
The bike is always broadcasting ANT+ data to be read by a cycling computer.
-Cadence
-Power
-Speed
-Battery level
-Etc.

 

[Swingset]

My Garmin 530 has been invaluable for its Trailforks info and things like cadence. I tend to leave the TQ display to the wattages.

 

[DBSwiss]

My Garmin 530 has been invaluable for its Trailforks info and things like cadence. I tend to leave the TQ display to the wattages.

I keep mine on wattage also. That is the most useful display. I don’t really look at range or battery details much. Cadence would be more useful to me as the motor is quite cadence sensitive.

 

[Cell4soul]

I also keep mine on wattage. I have my Garmin 830 on my stem cap. I ride with a screen that has the following data fields:

Assist Level
Battery percent remaining
Riding Gear (AXS drivetrain)
Gear Battery level (AXS)

I think my data screens on my 830 and the TQ display showing watt output gives me all the info I need.

 

[TopUnit]

Wow. Very nice video. What prompted putting so much work into that? Much appreciated though.

Madness I think!
It started with just wanting to understand how the Harmonic Pin Ring worked, then it I did a bit more, then it turned into an obsession.
I did enjoy improving my novice level the 3D CAD skills though, now novice+1

 

[MamboN5]

I need a little help to compare data from my battery, I just need a voltage reading that the battery gives when it is at 0% or as close as possible, it is taken through the charging port with the two large pins with a voltmeter.
Thanks.

 

[MamboN5]

Hi,

There's a Speedi speed limit hack now available for the Fuel EXe. Does anybody try one ?

SPEEDi - E-Bike Speed Limit Increaser by NLS Components

Shop our mechanical e-bike speed limit increaser. Electric bike speed limiter removal. Designed, manufactured and tested in New Zealand. Compatible with e-bikes from Specialized, Trek, Giant and more. Easy to install and remove. We ship internationally.

nlscomponents.com

I have tried it on a giant reign and it works well, although you only raise the limit up to 37.5 km/h and the bike does not show the real speed.

 

[Flow81]

NopeIts not that,its just you feeling the loss of 100w (or whatevr) that the motor was giving. Its not drag,its just you having to pedal harder to make up for the loss of motor assist.

View attachment 103844
i had my fuel EXe 9.8XT in the shop to get the dropper post replaced as it stopped working. While they had the bike they ran a software update which resolved one of the issues I had on my bike. In Boost mode, the power would come on but then suddenly drop off even at constant rider input power. That is now fixed and it is so much better. I recommend that those of you who maybe had a similar issue, ask for Trek to run a firmware update.
it did however not fix the motor rattle noise at low motor power which TQ said they would have a fix for at the end of 2022. Maybe Roman from TQ can provide an update on that issue. thanks.

It looks like I have 2 issues with my motor:
1. The one was Boost mode dropping off power, and @DBSwiss rightly posted that the latest firmware fixed that. It sure has!
2. The other still remains. If I turn the system completely off after I used it for a few minutes, the motor drag is considerable. This is on a flat asphalt road. Also, the harder I pedal, the harder the motor clamps down, almost to the point where I cant pedal the bike. It is almost as if heat in the motor expands the clutches and this is only noticeable when there is no power from the motor ie. all modes off, or system completely off. Come on TQ, you can fix it!

 

[mitea]

2. The other still remains. If I turn the system completely off after I used it for a few minutes, the motor drag is considerable. This is on a flat asphalt road. Also, the harder I pedal, the harder the motor clamps down, almost to the point where I cant pedal the bike. It is almost as if heat in the motor expands the clutches and this is only noticeable when there is no power from the motor ie. all modes off, or system completely off. Come on TQ, you can fix it!

Maybe better post the bug in detail here. Roman from TQ should be watching it.

Fuel EXe - TQ Bug reports

Post your bug reports here @Roman you are very welcome to collect them and show them to your developers at TQ. Important: If there is a security related bug please contact Roman directly via personal message! Don't write any details here. Include a title, which version you used (drive train...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[Mteam]

It looks like I have 2 issues with my motor:
1. The one was Boost mode dropping off power, and @DBSwiss rightly posted that the latest firmware fixed that. It sure has!
2. The other still remains. If I turn the system completely off after I used it for a few minutes, the motor drag is considerable. This is on a flat asphalt road. Also, the harder I pedal, the harder the motor clamps down, almost to the point where I cant pedal the bike. It is almost as if heat in the motor expands the clutches and this is only noticeable when there is no power from the motor ie. all modes off, or system completely off. Come on TQ, you can fix it!

Interesting....I can't think what could cause number 2, can't imagine it's firmware related if it does it when the motor/system is switched off,as opposed to merely set to the no assist mode, sounds like a hardware fault to me, probably worth going back to the dealer with that one rather than waiting for a firmware fix.

Was yours an early bike? I haven't noticed either of those issues with mine,but I can't tell you what version of the firmware mine is running,only that it's a 2022 bike and it was last updated towards the end of October.