Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[mitea]

How are people mounting Garmins on the integrated bar/stem? Is there a special mount available?

something like this?

 

[Treksurfer]

I had the same day-one experience with a noticeable clunk on the lower eyelet of my Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate, and I didn't know this affected all other models.

I took the shock off, and there was noticeable play with just a bolt inserted into the shock.

On the FB post you saw for Fox, do you know if the warranty is from Fox or Trek themselves?

Not sure if I should raise this with Rockshox or Trek.

Tightening the bolt to spec removed the clunk, but it's still disappointing that, for all this money, the tolerances are not perfect.

I would like to change my RS Deluxe Select+ damper to a RS Super Deluxe Ultimate damper. can you please send me the serial number of your RS Super Deluxe Ultimate , so I can check trailhead which Ultimate I need - thank you very much!

 

[KevinNY]

I would like to change my RS Deluxe Select+ damper to a RS Super Deluxe Ultimate damper. can you please send me the serial number of your RS Super Deluxe Ultimate , so I can check trailhead which Ultimate I need - thank you very much!

Here you go. Hope this helps

 

[Tolyho]

Tightening the shock bolt is NOT the fix for vertical play. Sounds like you need to replace the DU bushing at minimum, possibly all shock hardware at the lower pivot to get the horizontal tolerances correct. Good thing that's inexpensive ($15-20).

It'd be great to know if these issues are with the Rockshox or Fox shocks & hardware, since the bushings & hardware typically come with the shocks.

EDIT: I saw on FB that some 9.7s with Fox Shocks had them warrantied, for the eyelets being out of tolerance.

My rockshox hardware (w/bronze DU bushing) has been fine, and I swapped that hardware over to an Ohlins shock.

I agree with overtightening the bolt being the incorrect direction - tolerances are out. Period.

This is a 9.7 with Fox Performance and not sure of the answer in regards to either/or RS or Fox.

The shop just hit me up with findings: "There is a bulletin to replace the shock mounting hardware at that lower mount point. They are sending a new hardware kit out." This is all the information I have so if anyone wants to dig further with Trek as that's the bulletin's source have at it.

Paying for parts to get it "correct" or anywhere close to what we deem is correct seems to be a bit much for a brand new bike no matter what type it is. In the least, the Trek store/LBS should be able to provide all of that hardware(and labor if needed) to correct this issue once it's realized. It's actually a pretty big concern if you look at other posters frame damage from the movement of the bushings around the lower shock bolt.

Good copy on the FB shock out of spec info but that doesn't apply to my particular issue. The bushing is moving equal to the shock on the contact face of the frame. This is an out of spec bolt/sleeve/bushing on the internal hole not the external shock insert.

 

[ReanMTB]

Hey guys! You guys know if you can ride the Fuel Ex E without battery? I mean, if I need to make travel abroad to ride with guys with regular bikes, it would be usefull. Tks in advance.

 

[Mteam]

Hey guys! You guys know if you can ride the Fuel Ex E without battery? I mean, if I need to make travel abroad to ride with guys with regular bikes, it would be usefull. Tks in advance.

Yes you can, the manual specifies it.

But the range extender battery is sized specifically to be allowed onto planes, so you can leave the main battery at home, and take just the range extender and get some assistance.

 

[ReanMTB]

Yes you can, the manual specifies it.

But the range extender battery is sized specifically to be allowed onto planes, so you can leave the main battery at home, and take just the range extender and get some assistance.

Really? This is freaking awesome! Tks for the help!

 

[Mteam]

Really? This is freaking awesome! Tks for the help!

It's mentioned in the faq about a third of the way down

FAQ - Fuel EXe | Trek Bikes (GB)

www.trekbikes.com

 

[KevinNY]

Not sure anyone noticed but it appears Trek has updated the Geo page with a BBH of 33.4 in low and 34.1 in high which is now correct. Previously it was showing 34.2/34.9. They also tweaked a bunch of other numbers.

 

[Shades]

When using the Garmin, you can see afterwards which assist levels you were using (in the Garmin Connect app). Not in percent, though. It shows as 2, 4 and 7. (Also pictured is my garmin mount).

 

[KevinNY]

When using the Garmin, you can see afterwards which assist levels you were using (in the Garmin Connect app). Not in percent, though. It shows as 2, 4 and 7. (Also pictured is my garmin mount).

View attachment 102329 View attachment 102330

Very cool. Didn't know the TQ display and Garmin sync'd up so much info. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Tekniques]

Can anyone with the 9.8XT in deep smoke colour, put my mind at ease and check if you have this effect/defect? on the top tube...

Fuel EXe - so who's ordered the Trek Fuel EXe?

I'm new to this forum but the EXe has me totally converted to the emtb life. I tried the Levo SL but it just wasn't for me. Too much whine in the motor and I just didn't find it to be more interesting than my beloved Niner Rip 9 RDO that I've been riding for a few years. On a whim I picked up...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[Gd3fit]

Hello all happy new owner. Been making some adjustments on my 9.7 Medium before taking it out.

Need some tips on running new dropper post cable housing. I removed the battery, which was really hard to do, I think the cable was snagged too as I couldn’t pull the cable to move it at all when battery was in.

Anyway , does the cable housing go into the side hole slot in the bottom bracket area and work it up the seat tube from there? And then the other side goes up the down tube? I read there is a cable track for the downtube but I need to check it with light to see exactly where that is. The cable housing is pretty tight around the bottom bracket and having issues getting the dropper down in the seat tube without binding up the cable or housing.

Tips would be great. Thank you!

 

[KevinNY]

Hello all happy new owner. Been making some adjustments on my 9.7 Medium before taking it out.

Need some tips on running new dropper post cable housing. I removed the battery, which was really hard to do, I think the cable was snagged too as I couldn’t pull the cable to move it at all when battery was in.

Anyway , does the cable housing go into the side hole slot in the bottom bracket area and work it up the seat tube from there? And then the other side goes up the down tube? I read there is a cable track for the downtube but I need to check it with light to see exactly where that is. The cable housing is pretty tight around the bottom bracket and having issues getting the dropper down in the seat tube without binding up the cable or housing.

Tips would be great. Thank you!

There's a cable tray on the downtube which makes it very hard to pull the dropper post cable.

You can see it in the service manual, page 8 and 11.

https://retailerassetsprd.blob.core...=UogJIteiFltPX66np2M0a3esSu1uZzABYHTFInUlT/o=

 

[az2au]

There's a cable tray on the downtube which makes it very hard to pull the dropper post cable.

You can see it in the service manual, page 8 and 11.

https://retailerassetsprd.blob.core.windows.net/techassets/TK_FuelEXe_ServiceManual_MY23_EN-US_Rev2_2022-11-02.pdf?sv=2018-03-28&ss=bfqt&srt=sco&sp=r&se=2062-03-20T02:32:45Z&st=2019-03-19T18:32:45Z&spr=https&sig=UogJIteiFltPX66np2M0a3esSu1uZzABYHTFInUlT/o=

This is dead on but it wasn't too bad on mine. I didn't have to remove the battery to pull it. I put in an AXS Reverb so I didn't have to install anything after pulling it.

Putting the SRAM AXS groupset/drivetrain on is a different story though. That freaking Shimano freehub was an absolute PITA to remove.

 

[Emailsucks98]

/\ All good info on the seatpost cable routing. Another tip- if you're changing the housing out, remove the access cover (shown on pg 7) which covers the bend in the cable between DT and ST.

While we're on topic....

1. I was surprised to find the R Derailluer cable runs through the top tube, not through this DT guide system
2. Running/removing the R Der cable through the chainstay is trickier than getting it through the front triangle

 

[Emailsucks98]

Can anyone with the 9.8XT in deep smoke colour, put my mind at ease and check if you have this effect/defect? on the top tube...

Fuel EXe - so who's ordered the Trek Fuel EXe?

I'm new to this forum but the EXe has me totally converted to the emtb life. I tried the Levo SL but it just wasn't for me. Too much whine in the motor and I just didn't find it to be more interesting than my beloved Niner Rip 9 RDO that I've been riding for a few years. On a whim I picked up...

www.emtbforums.com

I can see the carbon weave on mine, but only if you hit it with a really bright light. 99% of the time it looks like gloss black with bronze tint. Applying ride wrap adds another layer of translucent.

FWIW- I also have a Propain Tyee with a similar finish, but less opaque. I quite like it.

 

[Balboa]

When using the Garmin, you can see afterwards which assist levels you were using (in the Garmin Connect app). Not in percent, though. It shows as 2, 4 and 7. (Also pictured is my garmin mount).

View attachment 102329 View attachment 102330

This is with the Wahoo app too. Very interresting to analyze afterwards.

 

[Mteam]

This is with the Wahoo app too. Very interresting to analyze afterwards.

Yes,it helps you work out how long you spend in each mode,and therefore gives a clue as to which mode you should tweak to get more range.

 

[Gd3fit]

/\ All good info on the seatpost cable routing. Another tip- if you're changing the housing out, remove the access cover (shown on pg 7) which covers the bend in the cable between DT and ST.

When I finally decided to remove the access cover, it made things a LOT easier all around. I finally located the plastic cable guide, the Trek person who put my bike together did not use that and so the dropper housing was tight against the downtube and battery. It made removing the battery VERY difficult. I finally got it to budge and come out.

Removing the access cover also helped me push down the dropper and keep the cable lined up with actuator and pulling the cable tight from the headtube. I have learned a lot regarding how to handle the cable routing on this bike in the past several hours. It was a PITA but also was nice having an access hole under the LCD screen and at the bottom bracket.

Putting the SRAM AXS groupset/drivetrain on is a different story though. That freaking Shimano freehub was an absolute PITA to remove.

Is removing the shimano 12s microspline cassette simply using a chain whip and the classic cassette tool that is used for GX/X01 cassettes? I am hoping to move the shimano cassette to a 27.5 rear wheel for Mullet action.

Also, how did you go about removing the freehub and where did you source an XD freehub? through Trek? I have the 9.7 which has the bontrager Rapid Drive 108 hub.

 

[KevinNY]

Is removing the shimano 12s microspline cassette simply using a chain whip and the classic cassette tool that is used for GX/X01 cassettes? I am hoping to move the shimano cassette to a 27.5 rear wheel for Mullet action.

Also, how did you go about removing the freehub and where did you source an XD freehub? through Trek? I have the 9.7 which has the bontrager Rapid Drive 108 hub.

Yes, I have multiple sets of rear wheels with SRAM XD and Shimano Microspline and it's the same whip and cassette lockring tool.

If you are looking for the XD Hub, this is the hub:

Bontrager Rapid Drive 11/12-Speed XD Driver Body - Trek Bikes

Enhance your cycling experience with Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 Freehub Bodies. Find the best gear at trekbikes.com and your local Trek retailer. Shop now!

www.trekbikes.com

You might need a new end cap. I'll see if I can pull the end cap from my Shimano and SRAM wheel to compare but I think they are different on the drive side.

Bontrager Rapid Drive 6-Bolt 12mm Drive Side Axle End Cap - Trek Bikes

Enhance your cycling experience with Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 End Caps. Find the best gear at trekbikes.com and your local Trek retailer. Shop now!

www.trekbikes.com

The hub doesn't come with the pawls and springs. If you don't plan to transfer your existing pawls and springs over, you can buy new ones. Note you'll need 6 Pawls and 6 springs to get the 108 tool engagement:

Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 Freehub Pawls - Trek Bikes

Enhance your cycling experience with Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 Freehub Pawls. Find the best gear at trekbikes.com and your local Trek retailer. Shop now!

www.trekbikes.com

Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 Freehub Pawl Springs - Trek Bikes

Enhance your cycling experience with Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 Freehub Pawl Springs. Find the best gear at trekbikes.com and your local Trek retailer. Shop now!

www.trekbikes.com

 

[az2au]

Remove the cassette was no issue. It is normal. Removing the end cap from the Shimamo hub was the hard part. I’m used to seeing a flat part and the through axel was perfectly round. I was confused by that and had to ask someone that really knows what they are doing. This resulted in me buying yet another tool (smooth jaw channellocks) that I didn’t already have. No matter how many tools I have there is seemingly a new one required every time I want to change something.

Note: I’m not exactly highly experienced in mountain bike maintenance but I’m used to doing my own maintenance for most everything because I enjoy it. I’m sure someone more experienced would just know what to do immediately.

You absolutely need an end cap and I just stopped in at an LBS to get the driver and springs/pawls.

 

[Gd3fit]

Hi guys, new around here. This awesome thread got me on a Fuel EXe, so thank you, its a great bike! This is the definitive internet source for real world experiences on the Fuel Exe!

BUT: I want to mullet my ride, especially coming off a long stint on 27.5 bikes. This bike has been described as being "lively", and I think a big contributor is the much lower than quoted BB. I do think there is a important error on the geometry chart as quoted by Trek in terms of the BB height. I measured 5 different bikes in Sizes small to large and I can't find a stock bike (29", 150mm fork) with a BB height higher than 342mm, in high setting. Which makes me think in 29er stock form, this bike runs 340-342mm(high), instead of quoted 349mm. Similarly, it runs ±335mm(low), instead of quoted 342mm. My size small with a 160mm fork is at 342mm(high), and with a 150mm fork, its 339mm(high). In Mullet form with a 150mm fork it is 330mm(high).

This should be fine if you run 29 FR/RR, but with a BB drop of 8-10mm in mullet 29FR/27.5RR, it really put this bike into lowest of low territory, and not really "mullatable" as marketed by Trek. If you run it in high, For reference my 27.5 160mm fork bike in size small was 345mm.

Its likely that I am overthinking this!! Maybe I should just ride it LOW...

Anyone wants to chime in on their bb heights? @Emailsucks98 what is your BB height with your mullet, 150mm?

I think you ended up being pretty close to correct. Trek seems to have updated their numbers to be closer in line with your bb heights. 341 high and 334 low

 

[njatherton]

Re. Loose lower shock mount.

I think the problem is the bolt. The shoulder (unthreaded) is 50% of the length & the thread is 50% [not including head]. This means the shoulder only goes halfway thru the spacer. If you measure the diameters of the bolt with a digital caliper the thread is significantlly less than the shoulder - this is causing the movement. As a test, remove shock lower & put the bolt thru the spacer, try to wobble head of bolt - mine doesn't move, then try to wobble thread end - mine moves...a lot. As a temporary fix I have put a single layer of electrical tape on the thread that is in the spacer.
Of course, the ultimate fix is a bolt with a longer shoulder. If you look at other bikes replacement kits this is how they are. But I am struggling to source such a bolt that will fit the Ex e.

 

[apollon]

Re. Loose lower shock mount.

I think the problem is the bolt. The shoulder (unthreaded) is 50% of the length & the thread is 50% [not including head]. This means the shoulder only goes halfway thru the spacer. If you measure the diameters of the bolt with a digital caliper the thread is significantlly less than the shoulder - this is causing the movement. As a test, remove shock lower & put the bolt thru the spacer, try to wobble head of bolt - mine doesn't move, then try to wobble thread end - mine moves...a lot. As a temporary fix I have put a single layer of electrical tape on the thread that is in the spacer.
Of course, the ultimate fix is a bolt with a longer shoulder. If you look at other bikes replacement kits this is how they are. But I am struggling to source such a bolt that will fit the Ex e.

This fits perfect but not possible to torque:

Titanium Flanged Hex Head M8x(1.00mm)x60mm

Titanium Flanged Head Bolt. 8mm x 60mm. The washer based hex head of this design spreads the load, whilst the rolled threads offer increased strength to give a tough, durable fastener. Produced in Grade 5, 6AL-4V Titanium, this material also offers fantastic corrosion resistance and weight...

www.probolt-usa.com

 

[njatherton]

This fits perfect but not possible to torque:

Titanium Flanged Hex Head M8x(1.00mm)x60mm

Titanium Flanged Head Bolt. 8mm x 60mm. The washer based hex head of this design spreads the load, whilst the rolled threads offer increased strength to give a tough, durable fastener. Produced in Grade 5, 6AL-4V Titanium, this material also offers fantastic corrosion resistance and weight...

www.probolt-usa.com

That head will not fit

 

[apollon]

That head will not fit

It fits fine bit not much around it to torque it. I know because I have it.

 

[njatherton]

How long is the shoulder? Does it fix the problem?

 

[ZillaG]

I put in a deposit on a 9.7 model, and will probably pick it up next weekend.

 

[Gd3fit]

I’ve run the AXS/Shimano setup this way. I find the full AXS system to be smoother and more durable. The XT cassette I ran with the AXS lasted less than 1 year. This was on an Orbea Rise, so not even a full power bike. I’d suggest full AXS drivetrain, but just my opinion.

from what I am reading regarding the e13 chainring it is compatible with 11/12 speed speed systems so if moving to AXS (RD/controller) it would be only require a cassette and chain from the same manufacturer i.e. sram eagle/chain or shimano cassette/chain. also the rear freehub to match the cassette of course.