Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[DBSwiss]

Did TQ just change the motor power spec?

i just came across something that may be evidence of some motor reliability issues.
when I read through the current specs on the 9.8XT EXe today, I saw a different motor spec than when I ordered my bike back in July and took some screen shots of the specs. I added the screen shots below. Does @Roman from TQ or anyone else know why this changed? First pic is Original spec of 300W. Second pic shows current spec of 250W continuous with 300W peak power.
Was there a change? If yes, why? Will that change be applied to existing bikes with firm ware updates?

 

[Bjeast]

"Unrideable" is the key issue for me. Yes I'll keep reading, page 17 now.

In my case, I’m making the change because I needed to adjust the reach. That’s simply not possible with the carbon one piece, stem and bar.

Second, if I do decide I want more rise on the bar, that’s not possible with the stock arrangement on my 9.8.

And finally, when it comes time to replace the thing, it’s a lot more expensive replacing the stem bar combo then it is to replace a bar.

 

[Mteam]

Did TQ just change the motor power spec?

i just came across something that may be evidence of some motor reliability issues.
when I read through the current specs on the 9.8XT EXe today, I saw a different motor spec than when I ordered my bike back in July and took some screen shots of the specs. I added the screen shots below. Does @Roman from TQ or anyone else know why this changed? First pic is Original spec of 300W. Second pic shows current spec of 250W continuous with 300W peak power.
Was there a change? If yes, why? Will that change be applied to existing bikes with firm ware updates?
View attachment 101561
View attachment 101562

I think that's just a terminology thing, all motors have to have max continuous rated power of no more than 250w to be legally classed as a pedelec in the EU. Peak power can be way higher than 250w,and is 300w in the case of this tq motor,but other motors like Bosch gen4 have the same max continuous rated power of 250w,but their peak power is something like 600w

 

[JP-NZ]

Thanks, but I want to put a 10-52 cassette and, as I mentioned, an oval chainring.

I don't know why you would bother spending the money when the 9.7 has SLX 10-51. I doubt you would even notice the extra tooth on the largest sprocket...?

 

[DugT]

If I wanted a lower low gear, I would get a smaller chainring, if that is possible.

 

[ebsocalmtb]

axs + shimano chain and cassette is the way. Wireless shifting consistency with better hand ergonomics with shimano cassette replacement costs and better shifting under load. I am a sram zealot... but the sramano setup is amazing on an ebike.

 

[steveL]

Ah, yes. You just saved me $$$. Thanks.

And Trek doesn't recommend and oval chainring as it will mess with the power delivery, it is somewhere in the literature, I can't find it again.

 

[steveL]

I am wondering if someone from TQ or Trek can say how accurate the displayed power meter and cadence numbers are? Is it measured with a strain type gauge or? Comparable to a 4iiii or Stages meter for accuracy(I realize these companies use gauges on the crankarms)?

Others thoughts are appreciated as well.

Steve

 

[Roman]

Are there any intentions for the consumer to be able to update their own firmware, inline with most other products?

In the mean time, will the dealer have a list of changes the firmware includes, for transparency of what is being changed in our bike?

Hey there,
we are working on both aspects. Transparency of what is being changed is the easier task, this will be available soon for both the rider and the dealer. Over-the-air updates is a more complex topic. We are seeing a lot of issues from other drive system suppliers, e.g. with bricked batteries. We wont release any OTA update feature without beeing 100% bulletproof.

 

[Roman]

I am wondering if someone from TQ or Trek can say how accurate the displayed power meter and cadence numbers are? Is it measured with a strain type gauge or? Comparable to a 4iiii or Stages meter for accuracy(I realize these companies use gauges on the crankarms)?

Others thoughts are appreciated as well.

Steve

You are right with the strain type gauge! A dedicated power meter like 4iii or stages will usually be superior in accuracy.

 

[Cell4soul]

Just so I understand, you're talking about a chain guide, not a bash guard right?

Yes, no bash guard, just chain guide.

 

[steveL]

You are right with the strain type gauge! A dedicated power meter like 4iii or stages will usually be superior in accuracy.

Are there any specs available? i.e. +/- 4 %

Thanks,

Steve

 

[Cell4soul]

axs + shimano chain and cassette is the way. Wireless shifting consistency with better hand ergonomics with shimano cassette replacement costs and better shifting under load. I am a sram zealot... but the sramano setup is amazing on an ebike.

I’ve run the AXS/Shimano setup this way. I find the full AXS system to be smoother and more durable. The XT cassette I ran with the AXS lasted less than 1 year. This was on an Orbea Rise, so not even a full power bike. I’d suggest full AXS drivetrain, but just my opinion.

 

[Mteam]

If anyone is wanting the run centerlock brake disc wheels, but is stuck with how to get the speed sensor magnet mounted, I can confirm that this magnet works fine

Giant Speed Sensor Magnet for Centerlock mount

Original Giant Speed Sensor Magnet for the centerlock mount. With the help of the sensor magnet, the speed sensor determines important driving…

www.ebike24.com

 

[wizard604]

My LBS ordered and installed an E13, but not sure where the purchased it. They initially ordered the wrong chain guide, but were able to reorder.

What is the part number.. is that the bash guard or chain guide. The fuel comes with a chain guide but not a bash guard

 

[wizard604]

I would suggest that, when you get a minute, you all slide your battery out of the frame and check its orientation.
If the orientation is such that the LEDs are on the non-drive side of the bike then that is wrong (as was my wife's) and you will not be able to charge the battery out of the bike as is.
View attachment 101553
The end caps were incorrectly connected by 180deg at both ends and, with the pull handle positioned as it is, it is not possible to connect the charger cable into the port as the 90deg bend on the cable cannector is hard up against the plastic handle.
Page 15 of the service manual specifies that it should be done in the correct manner - but unfortunately Trek have assembled some battery packs incorrectly, slid them into the downtube and delivered them to bike shops around the world. I needed to check that I could charge the battery outside the frame and I'm so glad I did.
It didn't help my understanding of the issue that the separate schematic of the relationship of the orientation of the charge port vs the LEDs was also wrong in the manual with the port shown out by 180deg.
My wife's bike is the 9.9 AXS XX1 but this issue can affect each and every model in the entire Fuel EXe range - so be aware.
TQ knew of the problem and had had discussions with Trek Production about the issue but still some will doubtless be 'out in the wild'.....it's not a TQ error, it's a Trek assembly error.
My own 9.9 AXS XX1 is due the end of this month and this will certainly be an aspect for me to check - my bike shop are also now aware.

So do you re-position the handle or the plug to solve

 

[XrayZulu]

So do you re-position the handle or the plug to solve

You cannot reposition the socket, that is built in to the actual battery as is. (although the relevant diagram in the service manual shows an incorrect orientation relative to the LEDs)

You need to rotate the end caps at both ends by 180deg, which is straightforward, which will then allow the 90deg connector on the charging cable to connect without hindrance when charging outside of the bike. The LED side of the battery will then be on the drive side of the frame when inserted, as it should be, see service manual.

Does your bike have a wrongly constructed battery assembly then? (I can't be the only person in the world that this has happened to, can I...........)

 

[KevinNY]

You cannot reposition the socket, that is built in to the actual battery as is. (although the relevant diagram in the service manual shows an incorrect orientation relative to the LEDs)

You need to rotate the end caps at both ends by 180deg, which is straightforward, which will then allow the 90deg connector on the charging cable to connect without hindrance when charging outside of the bike. The LED side of the battery will then be on the drive side of the frame when inserted, as it should be, see service manual.

Does your bike have a wrongly constructed battery assembly then? (I can't be the only person in the world that this has happened to, can I...........)

Checked my battery and both ends are correctly mounted where the LEDs are on the drive side and the handle is positioned to allow the charging cable to fit properly.

 

[XrayZulu]

Checked my battery and both ends are correctly mounted where the LEDs are on the drive side and the handle is positioned to allow the charging cable to fit properly.

 

[Bjeast]

Hey all. I know that going too long on the front of the EXe voids the warranty, but does going over on the stroke of the rear shock also void the warranty (assuming clearances are okay)?

 

[Roman]

Are there any specs available? i.e. +/- 4 %

Thanks,

Steve

No, unfortunately not...its more like a by-product of the gauges the HPR50 needs for motor controls. Sorry, this answer might be a little disappointing.

 

[tony.c]

Hello, if i remove the battery to go light, how can i fix the battery cable rattling inside the frame and stop water and dirt coming in from the upper battery screw hole?

 

[steveL]

No, unfortunately not...its more like a by-product of the gauges the HPR50 needs for motor controls. Sorry, this answer might be a little disappointing.

Thanks Roman, not the answer I had hoped for, it does answer my question. Thanks again.

 

[Cell4soul]

What is the part number.. is that the bash guard or chain guide. The fuel comes with a chain guide but not a bash guard

I am not sure on the part number. I have the chain guide only. I was told by my LBS the EXe does not come with a chain guide. I showed them photos on Trek’s website with chain guides on all models. They stated the photos aren’t indicative of the parts on the bike. I didn’t see the chain guide listed in the specs, so they are probably right.

 

[Mteam]

I am not sure on the part number. I have the chain guide only. I was told by my LBS the EXe does not come with a chain guide. I showed them photos on Trek’s website with chain guides on all models. They stated the photos aren’t indicative of the parts on the bike. I didn’t see the chain guide listed in the specs, so they are probably right.

mine didnt come with a chain guide.

 

[KevinNY]

I am not sure on the part number. I have the chain guide only. I was told by my LBS the EXe does not come with a chain guide. I showed them photos on Trek’s website with chain guides on all models. They stated the photos aren’t indicative of the parts on the bike. I didn’t see the chain guide listed in the specs, so they are probably right.

On Trek's site, it appears all models, other than the 9.5 list the chain guide in the service parts section. If you are referring to the 9.5 then your LBS is probably right although this contradicts the pictures as you indicated.

 

[Cell4soul]

Mine is a 9.5.

 

[Mteam]

Mine is a 9.5.

yep and mine - makes sense then, although all th ephotos of the 9.5 show a chain guide.

 

[XrayZulu]

Hello, if i remove the battery to go light, how can i fix the battery cable rattling inside the frame and stop water and dirt coming in from the upper battery screw hole?

Use some foam pipe wrap in the downtube to prevent cable movement, electrical tape over the screw hole

 

[Emailsucks98]

Hello, if i remove the battery to go light, how can i fix the battery cable rattling inside the frame and stop water and dirt coming in from the upper battery screw hole?

Cable rattle won't shouldn't be an issue. There is a plastic cable guide plate that is mechanically fastened to the upper/inside of the top tube, and a second guide piece that connects to the motor. I have to say, it's by for the best internal cable routing solution I've seen. I swapped out my dropper post cable and it was easier than most non-eBikes. Trek did great here!

Far as the holes for battery holes, I'd probably just put electrical tape over the upper hole, and then the lower one you'll want to have in place to secure the lower cover. Someone here suggested having a spare lower battery bracket to secure that bolt/plate.