ZillaG
Member
Hmmm, why not just add a rubber O-ring on the existing headset to mitigate that gap then?
Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
ZillaG
Member
eBikes are not allowed where he lives and rides most of the time (Pisgah and Dupont areas).
ZillaG
Member
I have this setup and it works. The T-type is a game changer, being able to shift at will.
You could do exactly that.
I haven't had that issue, mine stays paired.
Decolocsta
Active member
Still relevant in 23 
What a Great bike
What a Great bike
Nice photo. What rear mud guard are you using?
Decolocsta
Active member
Dazzling1984
Member
did you ever build a Trek 9.5???
Has anyone tested a 65mm stroke on an medium frame?
Is there enough space between tire and seat tube?
Preferably, in high and low settings with additional info about the tire.
I want to use 65mm stroke coil shock, DHR2 2.4 and low setting.
Does that work or should I either put in high for enough clearance, or use a 62,5mm stroke?
Thanks!
Is there enough space between tire and seat tube?
Preferably, in high and low settings with additional info about the tire.
I want to use 65mm stroke coil shock, DHR2 2.4 and low setting.
Does that work or should I either put in high for enough clearance, or use a 62,5mm stroke?
Thanks!
Emailsucks98
Active member
Resi/downtube clearance will depend on the specific shock. The stock Marzocchi bomber coil won’t fit, but can be modified. Shocks with transverse reservoirs like Ohlins, DVO or EXT Storia are the safest best. The frame is pretty linear, if you go coil, look for something with bottom out control.
Clearance between the seatstay brace and seat tube will be better in high setting, but I believe it just barely clears in low. Worth confirming.
FuelEXe_fan
Member
After about 20 minutes of riding, I'm getting WRN 601 SPD SENS error on my Fuel EX-e 9.5, and according to the TQ manual the cause is "Speedsensor problem" and the possible solution is "Check the distance between magnet and speedsensor. Restart the system. Contact your TQ dealer if the error still occurs."
It is only weird that after a minute or so, the problem disappears, and the distance between the magnet and the sensor never changes.
Is anybody else experiencing the same?
It is only weird that after a minute or so, the problem disappears, and the distance between the magnet and the sensor never changes.
Is anybody else experiencing the same?
I can only guess but perhaps some debris was stuck between the sensor and magnet and after some riding the debris fell off.
Which is a reminder to all to clean the magnet often. I find dust and metal particles stuck on mine all the time. Give it a good wipe.
Last edited:
njatherton
Member
I'm riding my Exe 9.8 gx axs with the battery removed and just using the range extender. Display shows 50% for a full charge which I understand is correct. The app shows 49%! As I ride the percentage on the display drops as expected but the app stays at 49%. Anyone else noticed this?
Rorschach84
Member
Anyone have any experience with a OneUp EDC Inline Pump Mount on the EXe?
Does it hold the pump anywhere near the middle without fouling on anything?
Does it hold the pump anywhere near the middle without fouling on anything?
wheelsx2
Member
If you are not using the under TT mounts, they make this now.
OneUp adds Inline Pump Mount & Bolt-On Tube Strap
OneUp's EDC mini pump and your spare tube get a rock-solid, bolt-on strap mount that attach to your top tube's accessory mounts.
bikerumor.com
Rorschach84
Member
If you are not using the under TT mounts, they make this now.
OneUp adds Inline Pump Mount & Bolt-On Tube Strap
OneUp's EDC mini pump and your spare tube get a rock-solid, bolt-on strap mount that attach to your top tube's accessory mounts.
Yeah that’s exactly what I’m looking at
Emailsucks98
Active member
In have the Jank Components holder, which is identical other than being 3d printed by Pinkbike Acedemy & local celebrity Eric Olson. On my size L, with a 70cc pump, everything clears though sometimes the pump rubs on my waterbottle. Not sure if a 100cc pump would have any additional issues.
wheelsx2
Member
There is hope! I got my range extender battery today. Ordered August 4th.
Rorschach84
Member
Cool, thanks. I have a 100cc pump so interested if anyone else has that setup on a large
Go with the Jank Components Inline pump holder and don’t look back:
Inline Pump Holder for OneUp EDC Pump - Inline, Sideloader, SWAT, Glovebox
This handy 3D printed pump holder carries your OneUp EDC Pump in line with your bike frame! Mount your OneUp EDC pump (or any a 30-28mm diameter pump) to a standard bottle cage mount or “auxiliary mount” found on Transition, Norco, Forbidden, Revel, Trek, and more. The inline mount hides the...
jankcomponents.com
photo of it on the bike below.
Rorschach84
Member
Hmm. Shipping to Aus is $20, will look in the usual spots over here and see if the OneUp one can be had cheaper. If not then I’ll grab the Jank one
DancingWithMyself
Member
I have the Jank Components inline mount and 70cc pump on a Large frame. Lezyne sideloading cage with 26 oz purist bottle (standard shape and size for 26 oz bottle).
I shaved away some of underside of the Jank mount and water bottle cage to cant the pump and bottle away from each other at their forward (closest to headtube) ends. Also used a small washer under the lower attachment point for the bottle cage. And I cut a sliver off of the pull tab for the charger port cover. With all of that, I have just enough clearance on everything to get a bottle in and out without having to pay any more attention than on any of my other bikes. Nothing touches or rubs.
Pretty sure you can't run a 100cc pump and 26 oz bottle. Have no idea what things would look like if you ran a 22 oz bottle. But if you're trying not to ride with a pack on shorter rides, then it's a bit of a catch 22 on trading more tool storage for less water.
Hope this helps
DancingWithMyself
Member
For the good of the order:
I fitted a Wolf Tooth bash ring with a WT 32 ring and I'm really pleased with how the setup turned out (other than there was a mix up with LBS on ring and it was supposed to be SS). Running X01 drivetrain, and this setup moved my chain line a couple mm inboard to 53mm, which I think is better if you're not running Transmission.
The outer plate of the chain guide no longer fits, but with the bash ring you really don't need it. However, it did look kind of janky, so I took some Sugru and added it to what was left of the chain guide. Cleaned up the appearance and helped get back complete coverage from the standpoint of chain guide functionality.
I used these bolts with dual hex ends of different sizes: Problem Solvers 10mm Double Chainring Bash Guard, Dual Hex, Black Alloy Chainring Bolts Set CR1478.
(Have to note that X2 spare on while Hazzard with progressive coil being serviced. Don't run an X2 normally)
Hope this is helpful to someone.
I fitted a Wolf Tooth bash ring with a WT 32 ring and I'm really pleased with how the setup turned out (other than there was a mix up with LBS on ring and it was supposed to be SS). Running X01 drivetrain, and this setup moved my chain line a couple mm inboard to 53mm, which I think is better if you're not running Transmission.
The outer plate of the chain guide no longer fits, but with the bash ring you really don't need it. However, it did look kind of janky, so I took some Sugru and added it to what was left of the chain guide. Cleaned up the appearance and helped get back complete coverage from the standpoint of chain guide functionality.
I used these bolts with dual hex ends of different sizes: Problem Solvers 10mm Double Chainring Bash Guard, Dual Hex, Black Alloy Chainring Bolts Set CR1478.
(Have to note that X2 spare on while Hazzard with progressive coil being serviced. Don't run an X2 normally)
Hope this is helpful to someone.
Piccirilli
Member
Just and FYI, I had the same problem, but confirmed it wasn't the motor mounts. It turned out to be caused by the cranks. After adding some grease to the cranks where they attach to the spindle, creaking went away.I've had clicking/creaking on my exe for a few weeks. I had thought it was the bearings, and so did a full bearing replacement on the suspension. But it still persists and so it was not the bearings...All points are torqued correctly including 50nm for the lock ring. Here's the youtube link with video and sound (below). It only makes this sounds when climbing, and only after the first 5 minutes. The first 5 mins are silent, and then the creaking/clicking gets progressively worse. If you have had similar issues and found a solution would love to hear. thanks in advance. - YouTube
wheelsx2
Member
I developed a creak but only when putting power into the drive side pedal. It was a loose chainring bold. I was shocked at how loose it was.
The locknut says 30nm but manual says 50nm. I am guessing I did 30 last time. Will try 50 this time.
The locknut says 30nm but manual says 50nm. I am guessing I did 30 last time. Will try 50 this time.
Canyon Shawn
Active member
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