Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[Integralnz]

Thanks for all the input. I had a good ride today on my normal single track decents and tuned in on how the bike felt. It is very balanced while descending. The front end is excellent in stock form but the rear feels a little soggy. Im gonna up the pressure in the shock a little and remove some rebound dampening. I am making some small adjustments to the sizing by fitting a 35mm reach stem and trimming the bars by 20mm. I bought the one up dropper today and will fit it to give me 180mm of drop rather than the 150mm stock. That will keep the seat out of the way on the rowdy descents. I would fit a 210mm but my legs are too short for it to work. I have an XT shifter on my other bike that I will swap out for the current SLX which doesnt downshift multiple gears and feels a little vague compared to the XT. I will then ride the bike on my 'go to' trails to work out what next. I did find the stock tires to have reasonable grip and support so am happy to keep running them until they wear. What do you guys think about the mullet conversion, the 160mm fork mod and increasing the shock stroke to 65mm. Do you suggest that the 3 mods are done together or is there a suggested order in which these mods are completed?

 

[Canyon Shawn]

^ With a 180 mm dropper and a 65 mm stroke shock, you rear tire is probably going to hit your saddle at bottom out. I have a 62.5 mm shock and a 150mm dropper and I have about 5 mm of clearance at full bottom out. If I ever get my nut sack caught down in there, it’s going to be a mess!

 

[gmoss]

I am comfortable with thr travel I have, feels pretty deep. Course, I have been on a 120 bike for a year. What size bike are you guys talking about? Mine is a large.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Mine is a medium.

 

[Emailsucks98]

^ With a 180 mm dropper and a 65 mm stroke shock, you rear tire is probably going to hit your saddle at bottom out.

Not a problem. I'm running a 210mm One-Up dropper (fully inserted into a size L frame) with a 65mm stroke shock and have gotten full travel with a 29" rear wheel. Standard caveats apply: always check your clearances with no spring/air, and don't slide your seat all the way back...

I don't believe the frame size changes clearance at bottom out. Smaller frames just have less insertion depth.

 

[EnduroIntern]

Not a problem. I'm running a 210mm One-Up dropper (fully inserted into a size L frame) with a 65mm stroke shock and have gotten full travel with a 29" rear wheel. Standard caveats apply: always check your clearances with no spring/air, and don't slide your seat all the way back...

I don't believe the frame size changes clearance at bottom out. Smaller frames just have less insertion depth.

Was just considering it. Is this the V2 or V3 you are running? (The V3 is supposed to be a bit shorter)

 

[Integralnz]

^ With a 180 mm dropper and a 65 mm stroke shock, you rear tire is probably going to hit your saddle at bottom out. I have a 62.5 mm shock and a 150mm dropper and I have about 5 mm of clearance at full bottom out. If I ever get my nut sack caught down in there, it’s going to be a mess!

Cheers, will check clearances when I remove the travel spacers. Should be sweet with a 27.5 rear. I noticed your seat is slammed right back on the rails which would contribute to the tight clearance. As long as your balls are larger than 5mm they shouldn't get dragged in !!!

 

[Emailsucks98]

Was just considering it. Is this the V2 or V3 you are running? (The V3 is supposed to be a bit shorter)

v2, cheers

 

[Integralnz]

Installed a 27.5 wheel and a 2.6 Minion DHR2. Put flipchip into high mode. Reach shortened a bit by doing so, rolled the bars forward a little and slid the seat back on the rails by 5mm. Handling changed significantly, tips into corners better and doesnt stand you up under braking. Climbing felt the same, maybe a little lighter in the front end on tight steep corners. Did experience slightly more pedal strikes but this should reslove itself when I install the 160mm airshaft. This bike is f*#cking awesome, corners so well and deals with rooty janky tech with such composure, all while feeling like a standard enduro bike.....until you need to pedal back up again. Would buy again, for sure!

 

[Integralnz]

A good day in the hills today. Autumn is in full force here in NZ. Managed to reduce the pedal strikes on the climb today by putting the shock into climb mode. Still waiting for the 160mm airshaft to finish things off. Bought some M3x8 screws to remove the shock travel spacers and take the rear travel up to 152mm. Will do that at the same time as fitting the airshaft.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Believe me when I tell you, 160mm will not help with pedal strikes. Paying attention to the trail will.

 

[xcel]

Collected my 9.8 GX AXS today and went on a ride after setting it up. Rides super nice. However, I also noticed there was some knocking coming from the shock/motor mount. After checking I found that there's some play in the lower shock mount when lifting the bike by the saddle. The spacers are moving up/down for like 0.5mm. Checked torque, 15nm like it says in the service manual. Also looks like there' are some paint chips / scratches around the marked area.

Anyone heard / read about something similar happening? Rear shock is a Super Deluxe Select+.

 

[njatherton]

Collected my 9.8 GX AXS today and went on a ride after setting it up. Rides super nice. However, I also noticed there was some knocking coming from the shock/motor mount. After checking I found that there's some play in the lower shock mount when lifting the bike by the saddle. The spacers are moving up/down for like 0.5mm. Checked torque, 15nm like it says in the service manual. Also looks like there' are some paint chips / scratches around the marked area.
View attachment 139356
Anyone heard / read about something similar happening? Rear shock is a Super Deluxe Select+.

I had this with my 9.7 with a Fox shock. Trek replaced bike with an upgrade to same bike as you. No problem with this one even though it has those same chips.

 

[xcel]

I had this with my 9.7 with a Fox shock. Trek replaced bike with an upgrade to same bike as you. No problem with this one even though it has those same chips.

Yea I saw a service bulletin for fox shocks, haven't found anything like this for rockshox though :/.
What do you mean by 'same chips'? Yours also has some paint chips in that area?
This is how the one side looks, after a single ~20km ride. There's already carbon visible in the top right corner.

 

[njatherton]

Yea I saw a service bulletin for fox shocks, haven't found anything like this for rockshox though :/.
What do you mean by 'same chips'? Yours also has some paint chips in that area?
This is how the one side looks, after a single ~20km ride. There's already carbon visible in the top right corner.

View attachment 139357

Yes, exactly the same chips at the lower shock mount.

 

[gmoss]

Luckily have not had that issue. Need to chdck mine, and take it in for software check and upgrade. I want to upgrade the shock soon and do not want to create that issue. I believe someone posted a solution several pages back.

On another note, love how I can ride this bike without assist with my non ebike friends. Once used to it, it actually does not climb that bad. What I have figured out is that going up and down in power accentuates the draggy feeling you get. I have gotten where I will ride either off or in eco (turned all the way down) until I get most of my riding done and then use mid or highest level to add miles or laps to finish the day.

 

[xcel]

I believe someone posted a solution several pages back.

Ah damn, any idea whether it was rockshox/fox & any hints what to search for? Nothing came up when I searched this thread.

 

[gmoss]

I believe it was fox, and I believe there was talk of the bolt being an issue and they had one made. Idk, I read the whole thred before buying mine. Haha seems like the tolerance for the space is hit or miss on Treks part. I have a RS shock and no issue. Somw were pointing at Fox early on since that was the primary shock having issue, now you have issue with RS. I would take it to the dealer and get it sorted. No excuse for this. Their tolerances are off a little. I found out when replacing my headset with a CK. The bottom bearing did not fit cleanly, had to nearly press it in, whereas on my Santa Cruz's, it just fits perfectly.

 

[xcel]

I believe it was fox, and I believe there was talk of the bolt being an issue and they had one made. Idk, I read the whole thred before buying mine. Haha seems like the tolerance for the space is hit or miss on Treks part. I have a RS shock and no issue. Somw were pointing at Fox early on since that was the primary shock having issue, now you have issue with RS. I would take it to the dealer and get it sorted. No excuse for this. Their tolerances are off a little. I found out when replacing my headset with a CK. The bottom bearing did not fit cleanly, had to nearly press it in, whereas on my Santa Cruz's, it just fits perfectly.

A buddy of mine also has a 9.8 XT with the same shock. No issues, no paint chips. Kinda sucks, as I planned a ride for tomorrow.

 

[Emailsucks98]

A buddy of mine also has a 9.8 XT with the same shock. No issues, no paint chips. Kinda sucks, as I planned a ride for tomorrow.

I haven't had this particular issue, but it should be as easy as swapping out the lower bolt & shock hardware which isn't specific to Fox, Rockshox or Trek. A good LBS should have everything you need - 40mm width, 8mm bolt. I just put some burgtec shock hardware on my other bike, nice stuff. Unless you are replacing the bushing, you won't need a press.

Burgtec Ti Offset Shock Hardware - Single - M8x40.0

Eccentric design allows the head angle to be changed by 1 to 1.5 degrees and bottom bracket height to lower or raise by shortening or lengthening the effective eye to eye of the shock Slacken the head angle for steeper courses or steepen it for sprinting 6mm hardware provides the greatest amount...

thelostco.com

(Doesn't include the M8 bolt)

 

[xcel]

I haven't had this particular issue, but it should be as easy as swapping out the lower bolt & shock hardware which isn't specific to Fox, Rockshox or Trek. A good LBS should have everything you need - 40mm width, 8mm bolt. I just put some burgtec shock hardware on my other bike, nice stuff. Unless you are replacing the bushing, you won't need a press.

Burgtec Ti Offset Shock Hardware - Single - M8x40.0

Eccentric design allows the head angle to be changed by 1 to 1.5 degrees and bottom bracket height to lower or raise by shortening or lengthening the effective eye to eye of the shock Slacken the head angle for steeper courses or steepen it for sprinting 6mm hardware provides the greatest amount...

thelostco.com

(Doesn't include the M8 bolt)

Cheers mate. Will hit up my shop on monday (wasn't trek directly) and see what they do. Guess they'll probably file a claim with trek and then I have to wait. Also, it's a bit of a bummer with the paint chips on such an expensive bike, but I reckon it is just cosmetic damage for now. Question is whether I do my planned ride regardless.

 

[gmoss]

With play, it can certainly cause more damage, but consodering that should be warranty, not to worry?...

Cane creek also has bushings and spacers. Better bolts may be a source for a bolt...

 

[xcel]

With play, it can certainly cause more damage, but consodering that should be warranty, not to worry?...

Cane creek also has bushings and spacers. Better bolts may be a source for a bolt...

I'd certainly hope that it will get warrantied. Found this (#2,973) post - seems like this is happening due to cheap / wrongly sized bolts?! I'll see whether I can measure mine tomorrow.

 

[gmoss]

Yes, that was it.

 

[Jazzii]

I'd certainly hope that it will get warrantied. Found this (#2,973) post - seems like this is happening due to cheap / wrongly sized bolts?! I'll see whether I can measure mine tomorrow.

Thats the problem!!! You can replace any amount of shocks of any brands and any type of 8mm shock mounting hardware, that WILL NOT HELP!
Only solution is to replace original cheap standard bolt to custom bolt with right (7,99mm) diameter to precisely fit 8mm shock mounting hardware. Otherwise you will NEVER solve this shock knocking and frame damaging prob! Maybe you can hide it for a while (because you tightened mounting hardware more against frame), but if gap between bolt and shock mounting hardware will be present, problem will come again with bigger frame damaging. Shock mounting hardware is ALWAYS exactly 8mm inner diameter, so replacing it with any other brand will not help!
I had a lot of frames in the past and all of them were fitted with custom mounting shock bolts. Dont understand this cheap crap bolt fitted by Trek to so expensive frames ...

 

[Jack of All Trails]

What shock did you install? is anything special required to have the shock installed?

It's a Fox Float DHX 1024018-0038-T with a 475 pound factory coil. The orange coils are much lighter than the standard black version. gives around the same travel as the air shock. You'll need some additional hardware for the shock to be fitted.

 

[xcel]

Thats the problem!!! You can replace any amount of shocks of any brands and any type of 8mm shock mounting hardware, that WILL NOT HELP!
Only solution is to replace original cheap standard bolt to custom bolt with right (7,99mm) diameter to precisely fit 8mm shock mounting hardware. Otherwise you will NEVER solve this shock knocking and frame damaging prob! Maybe you can hide it for a while (because you tightened mounting hardware more against frame), but if gap between bolt and shock mounting hardware will be present, problem will come again with bigger frame damaging. Shock mounting hardware is ALWAYS exactly 8mm inner diameter, so replacing it with any other brand will not help!
I had a lot of frames in the past and all of them were fitted with custom mounting shock bolts. Dont understand this cheap crap bolt fitted by Trek to so expensive frames ...

Any clue where to get a properly fitting bolt? Don't have the possibility here to get something made. Service manual has specs as - Lower bolt, M8 x 1 x 60 mm. They link to this bolt in the trek shop. Confusing af, manual specifies 1mm thread pitch and for the bolt in treks shop specs say it's standard M8 dimensions (1.25mm) thread pitch.

Edit: Also just saw that this bolt is steel + zinc coating, stainless steel or even titanium will prob. lead to corrosion in the part were it threads into...

 

[Jazzii]

Any clue where to get a properly fitting bolt? Don't have the possibility here to get something made. Service manual has specs as - Lower bolt, M8 x 1 x 60 mm. They link to this bolt in the trek shop. Confusing af, manual specifies 1mm thread pitch and for the bolt in treks shop specs say it's standard M8 dimensions (1.25mm) thread pitch.

Edit: Also just saw that this bolt is steel + zinc coating, stainless steel or even titanium will prob. lead to corrosion in the part were it threads into...

Linked bolt from trek is standard bolt you can buy anywhere and will cause shock rattling and frame damaging.
We solved it locally, asked garage guys to make few custom 7,99mm stainless steel bolts for us. No gap, rattling, knocking any more even shock bolt is tighten only 10 Ncm.

 

[gmoss]

A little anti seize helps with corosion. Has anyone asked Better Bolts? I bet tbey could source one. Otherwise, would check McMaster Carr. Not much they don't have.

 

[Integralnz]

The EXE is in its finished form now with the fork at 160mm and the shock at 152mm. Very happy with how it rides now although I don’t think there are massive gains from any one change. The incremental gains from each mod add up to a better performing package. If I were to rate the mods by added performance and cost ($1 NZD + 60 cents USD) it would be,

1, Mullet + Minion DHR II ($200 NZD - used wheel + New Tyre)
2, Longer travel seatpost - 180mm vs 150mm. ($200NZD - Oneup V2 being specialed out)
3, Extended fork travel from 150mm to 160mm. ($130NZD - replacement airshaft)
4, Remove travel spacers to extend shock travel from 140mm-152mm ($0)

The only improvement to come will be a new front tyre, maybe a Maxxis Assegai. No need for shorter cranks, as Canyon Shawn mentioned 'paying attention to the trail' is all that is required!