SZZS specific CEF50-main thread (initial builds and troubleshooting related only)

voigtkampff

Member
Oct 18, 2023
96
96
Poland
do you know if m820 features some kind of power limiter when battery runs down to 20%? usually when I enter B mode, this feels like a rocket taking off, but today all of the sudden I stopped noticing any difference in assistance level between all of the modes, essentially it felt like driving on E no matter the setting. I rebooted the engine but no help. waiting now to charge the battery to see if this persists...

also, strange thing happened when I was testing if I can ride in the walk mode, without pedaling. this seems to be impossible, the engine is putting too little power, but when I tried riding in any assisted mode afterwards, the engine was like dead - no assistance at all, no whirring sound. rebooting the system fixed this.
 

atkk

New Member
Feb 18, 2024
11
14
Sacramento, CA
do you know if m820 features some kind of power limiter when battery runs down to 20%? usually when I enter B mode, this feels like a rocket taking off, but today all of the sudden I stopped noticing any difference in assistance level between all of the modes, essentially it felt like driving on E no matter the setting. I rebooted the engine but no help. waiting now to charge the battery to see if this persists...

also, strange thing happened when I was testing if I can ride in the walk mode, without pedaling. this seems to be impossible, the engine is putting too little power, but when I tried riding in any assisted mode afterwards, the engine was like dead - no assistance at all, no whirring sound. rebooting the system fixed this.
It sounds like I have a similar issue with no assist... it worked great for 2 rides, went out the next day and I'm no longer getting any assist. Unfortunately power on/off doesn't restore it for me. Walk mode does work, so I know the motor is functioning, but it's like the controller isn't re-enabling assist mode, or my torque/pedal cadence sensor might have failed. SZZS dealer doesn't believe that it could work one day and not the next, so I've been communicating with them for almost 2 weeks with no resolution yet.
 

TCFlowClyde

Active member
Feb 26, 2022
1,335
863
Mesa, AZ
which screw? do you have a picture?
It was the main pivot bolt that fits into the rocker arm near the top shock mount. It was 8 mm too short amazingly. 👇
Screenshot_20240315-104514~2.png


I eventually broke the mating bolt mid-ride but was able to ride it back to my truck with no damage, but marred up the paint a little at the pivot joints of the stays due to lopsided slack creating friction points. So, I found out the correct size and had both Ti pin/bolt custom made, in a weekend luckily.👍

No problems since (7 of 8 months). SZZS eventually sent a warranty replacement pivot pin/bolt assembly that I've kept on hand as a spare. Just poor quality control and I didn't have reason to pull the linkage bolts to check them all out prior.

I posted the whole story in our thread last June or July for pics and further details. 👊
 
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TCFlowClyde

Active member
Feb 26, 2022
1,335
863
Mesa, AZ
Anybody convert their frame to traditional side cable guides? If so, can you take a pic of your set up.

I think I'm gonna convert myself.
 

mike_kelly

Well-known member
Subscriber
Aug 11, 2022
929
759
US
The power limiter function does not cut-off assist completely it just reduces it, until your battery is considered dead.
I would look at the cadence sensor if their is no assist. Remember the sensor and the magnet must be alighted.
 

mike_kelly

Well-known member
Subscriber
Aug 11, 2022
929
759
US
Anybody convert their frame to traditional side cable guides? If so, can you take a pic of your set up.

I think I'm gonna convert myself.
 

TCFlowClyde

Active member
Feb 26, 2022
1,335
863
Mesa, AZ
Thanks. Don't want external. 😝 Gets snagged way too easily.
 

atkk

New Member
Feb 18, 2024
11
14
Sacramento, CA
I'm sorry if spamming too much, but after fixing all the initial issues (rattling cables, loose headset) I'm really starting to like this bike. Currently, the remaining issues that I see are:
  • minor cable rattling in the headtube - I haven't used foam tubes there so as not to increase friction while moving the handlebar. I will probably have to live with that;
  • mud ingress into the "engine compartment", any known solutions to sealing this?
  • mud accumulation in the lower suspension bearings area; I will look for a mudguard long enough to protect both chainstay and seatstay bearings (and my bottom too). Does anybody have a working solution to this problem, could you share link to your mudguard?
View attachment 136287
This is the bike tube flap I cut out for mine:
PXL_20240315_180046903.MP.jpg
I used some small pieces of clear paint protection film to hold it in place on the top and bottom.
 

TCFlowClyde

Active member
Feb 26, 2022
1,335
863
Mesa, AZ
Good call! That's what I think I want.👍

Did the metal hex bolt cable guide come with matching metal mounting tabs for the plastic guides too? Or was it already fitted by SZZS? I would rather have the screw in over the plastic lever tabs for better cable security.
 

atkk

New Member
Feb 18, 2024
11
14
Sacramento, CA
Good call! That's what I think I want.👍

Did the metal hex bolt cable guide come with matching metal mounting tabs for the plastic guides too? Or was it already fitted by SZZS?
the parts they provided are all plastic with a little brass nut insert on the backside, I had to take them apart to get the bigger brake cables to fit through, they seemed to be designed only for shift cable housings.
 

TCFlowClyde

Active member
Feb 26, 2022
1,335
863
Mesa, AZ
the parts they provided are all plastic with a little brass nut insert on the backside, I had to take them apart to get the bigger brake cables to fit through, they seemed to be designed only for shift cable housings.
So, the frame came as just an empty slot for the guide? Looks like it works as it should.👍
 

atkk

New Member
Feb 18, 2024
11
14
Sacramento, CA
Here's a shot of the full build with dropper cable in the right port, and rear brake on the left. I ran the display cable through the headset they provided.

PXL_20240228_020025224.jpg

I don't think I have a good picture of the frame without the plastic guides. there's basically just a 14mmx24mm rectangular hole with rounded corners on each side, cut directly through the carbon. no internal guides or anything. I bought some cheap foam tubing to put around the cables to mitigate rattling
 

TCFlowClyde

Active member
Feb 26, 2022
1,335
863
Mesa, AZ
Here's a shot of the full build with dropper cable in the right port, and rear brake on the left. I ran the display cable through the headset they provided.

View attachment 136374
I don't think I have a good picture of the frame without the plastic guides. there's basically just a 14mmx24mm rectangular hole with rounded corners on each side, cut directly through the carbon. no internal guides or anything. I bought some cheap foam tubing to put around the cables to mitigate rattling
Gotcha! So, the topcap has a hole in to allow the big display plug through. Does the cap opening have grommets to minimize water ingress? Got a pic of, if, when you get a chance later...

Looks clean enough for me and better than most E-mtb cable guide setups.🤟
 
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atkk

New Member
Feb 18, 2024
11
14
Sacramento, CA
Gotcha! So, the topcap has a hole in to allow the big display plug through. Does the cap opening have grommets to minimize water ingress? Got a pic of, if, when you get a chance later...

Looks clean enough for me and better than most E-mtb cable guide setups.🤟
The big supplied grommet fits the connector but leaves a gap around the cable:
PXL_20240315_185141762.jpg


I just tried cutting one of the small grommets since it won't fit over the connector, and it looks better but it's not very secure. if I take the headset apart again I might see if the connector will fit through the small hole, and use the split grommet there, or maybe just a dab of CA glue to stick the grommets together.
PXL_20240315_185853502.jpg
 
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TCFlowClyde

Active member
Feb 26, 2022
1,335
863
Mesa, AZ
The big supplied grommet fits the connector but leaves a gap around the cable:


View attachment 136376

I just tried cutting one of the small grommets since it won't fit over the connector, and it looks better but it's not very secure. if I take the headset apart again I might see if the connector will fit through the small hole, and use the split grommet there, or maybe just a dab of CA glue to stick the grommets together.
View attachment 136377
Ahh yes! I used doubled-up on shrink wrap to thicken the wire to help close to the gap on the similar ICR cap. 👍 But I've also used in the past just regular black electrical tap wrapped around the wire several times making a doubled-ended tapered thickener. Anyway...

Thinking about going side port too, next to my dropper cable. I'll find a larger mouth cable guide to fit both like on my M600 frame. This In order to ditch ALL SZZS top headset altogether...like I did with bottom headset.

For those thinking about a full conversion, there's a new (and rare) ZS56 top headset assembly called Woodman out of Taiwan. (I'll also posted this over to the CEF50 headset thread).

Screenshot_20240315-124444.png
 
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masahirov

New Member
Jan 24, 2024
23
17
tokyo japan

TCFlowClyde

Active member
Feb 26, 2022
1,335
863
Mesa, AZ
I cut a small gap of the cable guide nut for the display cable to get through, works perfectly, shifter/dropper/brake hose/display cable on both side, no hole is needed on the headset.

View attachment 136382 View attachment 136383 View attachment 136384 View attachment 136385 View attachment 136386 View attachment 136387
Yep, great job! I wondered about that too.🥰 Good to see it working. I have a separate rubber grommet split with a separate port, but cutting the carbon frame cleaning can be tricky, so I'd rather make two cutouts not three.👊
 

ficorama

Active member
Oct 9, 2021
350
301
Croatia
It was the main pivot bolt that fits into the rocker arm near the top shock mount. It was 8 mm too short amazingly. 👇
View attachment 136368

I eventually broke the mating bolt mid-ride but was able to ride it back to my truck with no damage, but marred up the paint a little at the pivot joints of the stays due to lopsided slack creating friction points. So, I found out the correct size and had both Ti pin/bolt custom made, in a weekend luckily.👍

No problems since (7 of 8 months). SZZS eventually sent a warranty replacement pivot pin/bolt assembly that I've kept on hand as a spare. Just poor quality control and I didn't have reason to pull the linkage bolts to check them all out prior.

I posted the whole story in our thread last June or July for pics and further details. 👊
Thanks
 

ficorama

Active member
Oct 9, 2021
350
301
Croatia
It was the main pivot bolt that fits into the rocker arm near the top shock mount. It was 8 mm too short amazingly. 👇
View attachment 136368

I eventually broke the mating bolt mid-ride but was able to ride it back to my truck with no damage, but marred up the paint a little at the pivot joints of the stays due to lopsided slack creating friction points. So, I found out the correct size and had both Ti pin/bolt custom made, in a weekend luckily.👍

No problems since (7 of 8 months). SZZS eventually sent a warranty replacement pivot pin/bolt assembly that I've kept on hand as a spare. Just poor quality control and I didn't have reason to pull the linkage bolts to check them all out prior.

I posted the whole story in our thread last June or July for pics and further details. 👊
Do you know the diameter of that bolt? thank you
 

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