Tim gosnold
New Member
Cheers thank you buddy.
Reign E+ 2022
- Thread starter zorro77
- Start date
A bit of topic but I just saw this. Maybe something for @Rob Rides EMTB and you guys with long legs.
jbv
Member
i've got the oneup 210 and it's fantastic. i have a 37" inseam and wouldn't need longer, but it's amazing that this now exists.
Yeah. nevermind accuracy. That simply isn't rear travel measurement at all.
you're not the first mtb journalist to make this mistake
to physically plot the "actual" axle path:
Remove shock.
Remove rear wheel.
lay the frame on it's side as flat as you can on a large sheet of cardboard. (a helper would be ideal for this)
use a vernire and place shock mounts apart by exactly the shocks eye to eye length. - This is your starting point.
Now rotate the swing arm through it's travel drawing the arc with a marker through the dropout until the shock mounts are closer together by exactly shock stroke.
being an arc your measurement from dropout start to finish point will be a tiny bit less than full actual travel. if You really want it to be exact. it's a simple geometric maths equasion based on the angle and length of lever (eg. swing arm length or virtual pivot point arc and length if its a horst or VPP). but the start point to end point measurement is generally only a mm or so shorter.
frame in a proper workshop bike stand that won't move and cardboard (bike box etc.) held vertically to the side of the frame would also work quite well.
Or measure every pivot point very accurately and use linkage software.
Well, It’s vertical wheel travel I measured. So technically is a measurement of rear wheel travel
I agree, it’s not the exact measurement that manufacturers use (although their quoted travel number is likely not the exact figure either, it’s too rounded and nicely marketable a number to be always ending in a zero!)
I totally get that it’s not following the exact arc that the rear wheel travels. I wonder how much of a difference in reality this number will be, versus the variation of measuring the exact axle path. Obviously will differ from bike to bike depending on a few things.
My measurement works out Axle Displacement, not Axle Path Length
for sure there will be a difference, but I’m not convinced that it’ll be more than small single digit % variations?
As it turns out I just ordered a bikeyoke max revive 213mm But had the 210 dropper from OneUp on another bike and it was really decent, great value for money. I didn’t have any issues with it in 12 months.
Yah they are great! Best thing is the option to shim it down. You will always get the longest possible dropper!
Starting to get pricy. last year I paid 230 euro and now 260 euro for the exact same model.
L
Less time posting more time video uploading rob
Ah the mythical Reign video! With all his recent sponsorship deals he's forgotten about us little people!
No Rob.Well, It’s vertical wheel travel I measured. So technically is a measurement of rear wheel travel
I agree, it’s not the exact measurement that manufacturers use (although their quoted travel number is likely not the exact figure either, it’s too rounded and nicely marketable a number to be always ending in a zero!)
I totally get that it’s not following the exact arc that the rear wheel travels. I wonder how much of a difference in reality this number will be, versus the variation of measuring the exact axle path. Obviously will differ from bike to bike depending on a few things.
My measurement works out Axle Displacement, not Axle Path Length
View attachment 81177
Believe it or not most bikes do actually have very close to the actual quoted travel. Designers don't just guess linkages and shock eye to eye lengths.
Your (wrong) measurement can easily be anywhere between 4-10mm out. (depending on traval and true axle curvature).
At an "educated" guess I'd say you're right around 6mm out this time
. PS. Fork travel would be shorter too if measured your way.
So, pick my reign up Thursday. Going the orange spec as everything on it is coming off. Already have tricksruff brakes, super deluxe ultimate and a coil conversion for the forks. My question is for putting it in the roof, the battery will come out and front wheel off as it's an angle mounted carrier. With the battery out is there a cover for this or do I need to wrap the frame to protect from the elements?
Ah the mythical Reign video! With all his recent sponsorship deals he's forgotten about us little people!
I just love stirring him up about it
Battery cover and battery are independent. You will be able to close the frame.
- Thread starter
- #1,454
I think so too, or they use another mapping!In that case they probably chose the wrong motor
Were you guys really able to climb anything harder with different motor? I absolutely crushed all the uphills on Reign that I was able to do with Bosch motor. Bikes when it comes to geometry were similar. Bosch is more punchy and surges much more, but most definitely not more capable. Of course it's just my single opinion.
Carlyzf250
Member
Exactly. My pal has the Bosch and couldnt do a hill challenge. Mine just shot up its all because the yamaha is very smooth power compared to Bosch
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EWS Climbing stages are perfectly do able on a normal bike. But being a timed segment every second counts.
Most climbs folk do on Ebikes are do able by stronger fitter more skilled rides on normal bikes TBF.
Quick tip for people riding the Reign E+ 0 & E+ 2 with Sram Code brakes.
Bikes are specced OE with Sram Centerline 220mm/200mm rotors, front one being 2.0mm thick & rear 1.7mm.
I was finding my lever throw a little bit off for the rear brake as the rotor is not as thick as the front one.
Upgrading to Sram HS2 rotors which are 2mm thick for all sizes was a nice little upgrade with better brake feel especially regarding the lever throw. Rotors also have a larger braking surface vs. Centerline...should improve performance a bit.
Bikes are specced OE with Sram Centerline 220mm/200mm rotors, front one being 2.0mm thick & rear 1.7mm.
I was finding my lever throw a little bit off for the rear brake as the rotor is not as thick as the front one.
Upgrading to Sram HS2 rotors which are 2mm thick for all sizes was a nice little upgrade with better brake feel especially regarding the lever throw. Rotors also have a larger braking surface vs. Centerline...should improve performance a bit.
- Thread starter
- #1,460
Yamaha is fine but in a race seconds are important and here it is not the best in my opinion.
Carlyzf250
Member
Always the way with giant for some reason.. think they do need to improve there marketing. I see they have gone abit into town with embn this year tho
Yah it’s like the marketing department dropped the ball. Might sort it self out soon. Giant launch was far ahead of wide availability. Might be a wave of review arriving this spring. Most ppl buy in march/April/may.
Only YouTube Channel NOT doing bike review. Basically paid ads.
Yeah. The largest manufacturer of bicycles in the world should definitely come to a forum full of old blokes for advice on how to sell more bikes.
pricey.
It absolutely doesn't matter what's going on. Your new Santa Cruz WILL be made in the same Giant factory. As most bicycles. Something like competition doesn't exist for Giant cause whatever is sold is nevertheless made by them. They always win. Santa Cruz like lots of other companies produce absolutely nill. They just check if what came back from Taiwan to US looks good. They don't even run serious tests. They showed ones how those tests look like. Some bloke was jumping on the rear triangle. Best quality control ever :/.
Spudley
Member
I am running x2 with 400lb spring at 85 kilos.
Upgrading to 425 as a bit soft.
Spudley
Member
Tim gosnold
New Member
How does it run with a coil? I’ve got ohlins on my patriot and love it. Think I need to give the float x2 a chance at the moment.
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