Official Merida eOne-Sixty thread

[InspectHerWheels]

The knock block/cable design is stupid but I don't think the bike is unsafe. You'll lose your E functions if the controller cable is cut but the bike will ride. Mine was and I did a self repair and reinforced it significantly. Have had no issues since. Part of the problem is the poor assembly by 99 bikes. After I tightened everything up it's been fine for the last 12 months.

It's also incredibly easy to re route the controller cable from the headset to the vents. The light needs the motor dropped but it's a 30 min job in total to re route both cables. Once I had the knock block installed properly (by me) I haven't felt the need.

Gordon

p.s. I have never used the light except to see if it worked. I may remove it. It's not bright enough for anything than a path commuter light anyway. I wouldn't even use it on the road, let alone the trail.

Hi Gordon,

Thanks for the useful advice. I am taking the bike to Bikeforce in Woodvale. Honestly, I find it hard to belief that they simply installed it incorrectly. Another person on the thread said it resulted in him falling doing a U-turn. Does your steering block move, that is mobile? That is the key issue here.

I am taking it elsewhere though, just in case, and you seem to have fixed yours.

I picked the bike up last night...same. I got into an argument with the senior guy there (not the Store Manager). I said I needed the name of the manager for the letter I was going to write...and they wouldn't give me his surname. I was not impressed to say the least. I'm thinking this guy Mark must need his own security detail to deal with customers. It didn't inspire confidence.

Anyway, this other guy Travis from Woodvale sold me my previous Scott bike and I do trust him totally so we will see what happens.

Grant

 

[InspectHerWheels]

Have you got another bike lined up to replace it? The wait times seem impossibly long at the moment.

Hi Doug,

You are right and yes I am prepared to wait and it could be some months. I will see what happens first. If I had to sell it, I guess I would get a near new price which is another option.

 

[Doug Stampfer]

Hi Doug,

You are right and yes I am prepared to wait and it could be some months. I will see what happens first. If I had to sell it, I guess I would get a near new price which is another option.

You may even get more than retail price from someone not wanting to wait for who knows how long. My wifes bike was ordered in Nov & turned up this week. We were told maybe June but not to take our names off the list & buy elsewhere as this shipment of bikes were due mid last year.

 

[InspectHerWheels]

The knock block/cable design is stupid but I don't think the bike is unsafe. You'll lose your E functions if the controller cable is cut but the bike will ride. Mine was and I did a self repair and reinforced it significantly. Have had no issues since. Part of the problem is the poor assembly by 99 bikes. After I tightened everything up it's been fine for the last 12 months.

It's also incredibly easy to re route the controller cable from the headset to the vents. The light needs the motor dropped but it's a 30 min job in total to re route both cables. Once I had the knock block installed properly (by me) I haven't felt the need.

Gordon

p.s. I have never used the light except to see if it worked. I may remove it. It's not bright enough for anything than a path commuter light anyway. I wouldn't even use it on the road, let alone the trail.

I use my Led Lenser Xeo for night riding and that means I can see into corners which and get light wherever I want it. I don't have it on 2000 lumens, 1000 Lumens is enough for off road at night. The E115 is a well designed light but I agree it isn't powerful enough as a sole light, as a second light though it is fine and I like the idea of always having the light on so I'm visible wherever I am riding even during the day.

I'm getting a second opinion on the bike now so I put it in to be looked at. I'm not going to try to do any repairs myself. I appreciate your advice though. No one has really said specifically whether the Merida knock block is mobile and movable, as designed, or not. A moveable knock block is like a chocolate teapot and as useful.

 

[flash]

I use my Led Lenser Xeo for night riding and that means I can see into corners which and get light wherever I want it. I don't have it on 2000 lumens, 1000 Lumens is enough for off road at night. The E115 is a well designed light but I agree it isn't powerful enough as a sole light, as a second light though it is fine and I like the idea of always having the light on so I'm visible wherever I am riding even during the day.

I'm getting a second opinion on the bike now so I put it in to be looked at. I'm not going to try to do any repairs myself. I appreciate your advice though. No one has really said specifically whether the Merida knock block is mobile and movable, as designed, or not. A moveable knock block is like a chocolate teapot and as useful.

On my bike the block was installed a bit too low on the steerer and wasn't tight enough. That meant if the handle bars rotated hard the block could cut the cable like a guillotine because the cable could move out of its correct position. Also once it took a small hit the block rotated on the steerer which affected the handlebar rotation. I was going to just take the block off the steerer which would also fix the issue but when I looked it was an easy fix and the block does stop the fork from smashing into the carbon frame I have on my 9K, medium.

I cut my control cable twice before I realised what the problem was. Had to strip and solder the cable as parts are so hard to get. (I'm handy with a soldering iron so it was an easy fix). I have reinforced the cable in the area of the block as well for peace of mind although properly installed it shouldn't be an issue. I'm not the only one so I think it's a factory fit issue, although the shops should be aware and check when they assemble the bike. Personally since it's my ribs that'll break when I crash the damn thing, I have always thoroughly recheced all my bikes after any shop has a crack at them. Mostly now I just do it myself because it'll be done right and not on the clock.

Dissasembly, correcting the block position, checking/greasing the headset and re-assembly should take a half decent mechanic no more than 15 minutes. It's not a big fix. Tell your mechanic the block is set too low on the steerer and not tight enough.

Gordon

 

[flash]

Can anyone comment on how the steering block works that is supposed to prevent the wiring through the steering stem getting damaged?

I got told today not to put my bike in the boot...

The bike caused one quite serious accident already due to this block being set such I didn't make a low speed corner which smashed the computer and damaged the headlight. I was just getting going again from that accident in October having only just got the computer back in the past month. Today I put the bike in the boot to take it in for the headlight E115 replacement (supplied my own headlight). It is only the first time I have put the bike in the boot since the accident as I have been riding locally.

I think it is a 'broken as designed' feature. The block has always moved with relatively modest force since new. The only situation where it is an issue is in a very slow speed corner where you are turning into the block and this is what happened to me.

I hate being bullshitted. I get it about the block's function although I doubt if it works. It certainly didn't protect my headlight and that damage was to the cable. It seems it doesn't even do it's basic job in an accident.

It is all my fault of course as I must have moved it putting it into the boot...once? They checked it after the accident.

They say by putting in the boot I have weakened the block. All sounds like bullshit to me.

For the record, when I bought my 9K the guy in the shop helped me load the bike into the back of my Landrover. I always atkethe front wheel off when I load this way to stop the fork hitting the frame.

Also quite a few have had the block move and cable cut. It's not just you. I think it's not been fitted correctly at the factory and isn't checked at the shop during assembly. (My assembly was definately rushed. The brakes levers werent even level with each other.)

Gordon

 

[InspectHerWheels]

I got another bike mechanic to examine my bike. He determined that the steering limiter or knock block is working as designed but also broken as designed.

99 bikes agreed to a full refund. The manager got down a Merida 140 to see if I was interested saying it didn't have the knock block. It did and worked the same as mine.

I now have a Cube eBike. I only got it today.

It was a swap in effect with no cash exchange for the swap. Very nice bike, of course so was the Merida aside from this stupid design issue.

 

[Glowtape]

When the bike is powered down and I roll it backwards, so the motor gets engaged, the power button LED lights up (presumably due to the motor acting as a dynamo). Should I be concerned about that?

 

[Natxoman]

Cuando la bicicleta se apaga y la hago rodar hacia atrás, el motor se activa, el LED del botón de encendido se enciende (presumiblemente debido a que el motor actúa como una dínamo). ¿Debería preocuparme por eso?
[/CITA]
Continua durante cuatro horas con suerte se recarga....

 

[urastus]

When the bike is powered down and I roll it backwards, so the motor gets engaged, the power button LED lights up (presumably due to the motor acting as a dynamo). Should I be concerned about that?

I don't think the motor can act as a dynamo - it would have to be designed to do that. I shall tell you in an hour or so if my bike does that.

I'm back. In the highest gear, which should turn the motor over the most, I wheeled backwards reasonably quickly for about 5m. Nothing happened. I have an e8000 motor, 504Wh battery (2020 eone forty ltd).

 

[urastus]

The brakes levers werent even level with each other

 

[Glowtape]

I don't think the motor can act as a dynamo - it would have to be designed to do that. I shall tell you in an hour or so if my bike does that.

Permanent magnet motors can all act a bit as dynamo. Due to their nature of magnets passing coils when being driven externally.

I'm back. In the highest gear, which should turn the motor over the most, I wheeled backwards reasonably quickly for about 5m. Nothing happened. I have an e8000 motor, 504Wh battery (2020 eone forty ltd).

I have the 2021 e160 with the EP8 and the Simplo battery. Probably something in the motor electronics that's different.

 

[webman]

I now have a Cube eBike. I only got it today.

I’m curious, what Cube did you get? I asked at 99 bikes and they did not seem to have any in stock or arriving anytime soon.

 

[InspectHerWheels]

I’m curious, what Cube did you get? I asked at 99 bikes and they did not seem to have any in stock or arriving anytime soon.

I got the bike with the longest name the Cube Hybrid Stereo HPC SL 27.5 bike. It was a demo bike with 240km on it when I got it. They serviced it and put sealant in the tyres and it was a cashless swap with the Merida. It is a very sound bike and I like the Bosch motor. It also fits in the boot of my Aurion a bit easier so that is good. No steering limiter and that is good too. The Magura brakes are great. The gear change is not as handy as the Shimano but I'm getting used to it now. I'm not a downhill or technical mountain biker so I think both bikes are much the same in performance. I prefer the Bosch motor as it is quieter overall, noticeably quieter over the Shimano. The Merida though is a great bike. If the bike shop had simply removed the limiter it would have been a better outcome but they didn't want to do that.

I have to give 99bikes credit for swapping the bikes.

 

[azza89db]

Hi,

Has anyone experienced the switch not turning on the bike? e160 700 2021 build. I can turn it on via hitting the button on the battery through the little hole in the down tube and I've since ridden it for a 2 hour stint, it didn't seem to recharge the battery for the switch as per the documentation...

The switch lights up when I turn on the bike via the battery so it's definitly plugged into the motor... Anyone experience this before? Is the little battery for the switch replaceable or is it a whole new unit?

Cheers,

 

[Tonybro]

Are you charging the main battery out of the bike? My LBS recommends charging the main battery in the bike every couple of weeks to charge the controller battery too. Don't know how true this is but might be worth a try...

 

[azza89db]

Are you charging the main battery out of the bike? My LBS recommends charging the main battery in the bike every couple of weeks to charge the controller battery too. Don't know how true this is but might be worth a try...

No, always charge the battery on the bike. Think the battery inside the switch is just cactus...

 

[Doug Stampfer]

I shouldn't have ridden my wifes new E160-700. It was too good, she might not get it back.
I have renamed my Rail 'The whale' as it handles like a slug in comparison. I really like the mullet setup it turns in so well in the techy bits.
I was pretty pleased with the Z1's as well - not as good as my 'yari /lyrik ultimate' but handled all but the braking stutter bumps pretty well. The rear shock, brakes & driveline were faultless.
Got a surprising amount of pedal strikes however (even outside pedal going around corners) but I won't go there...

 

[Jun]

Hi. Im riding e160 775 alloy model which has a hole at the headset cover for cables. After every downhill ride the cover spins to always one direction. So I thought top cap bolt was not tightened enough. But after loosening stem and by over 3 nm tightening the bolt, still the cover spins after ride. The headset has no play and I cant rotate the cover by hand. i really wonder why it spins. Doea any one know the reason? Thanks.

 

[CTM]

Hi. Im riding e160 775 alloy model which has a hole at the headset cover for cables. After every downhill ride the cover spins to always one direction. So I thought top cap bolt was not tightened enough. But after loosening stem and by over 3 nm tightening the bolt, still the cover spins after ride. The headset has no play and I cant rotate the cover by hand. i really wonder why it spins. Doea any one know the reason? Thanks.

I contacted Merida about this. They're aware of it but no solution. Bit of a pain. I'm thinking of ditching the whole idea but baring with it for now. Otherwise I might try make some sort of dowel set up. Could try carbon paste to ??

 

[Jun]

I contacted Merida about this. They're aware of it but no solution. Bit of a pain. I'm thinking of ditching the whole idea but baring with it for now. Otherwise I might try make some sort of dowel set up. Could try carbon paste to ??

I removed the light and then rerouted cable from the motor to the right side. And reassembled headset tightening the top cap at about 2nm. One time of trail ride and still the headset cover has not spun yet and no play at headset.

 

[Jun]

I removed the light and then rerouted cable from the motor to the right side. And reassembled headset tightening the top cap at about 2nm. One time of trail ride and still the headset cover has not spun yet and no play at headset.

It still rotates.

 

[steve_sordy]

It still rotates.

Is it possible to use some Loctite Blue on the thread? That usually stops stuff from moving.

 

[Isaacgrx]

It still rotates.

Mine does the same thing, I have given up and just live with it now. Ideally I would like to replace the headset cap with something else.

 

[MMBB]

No issues with mine moving

 

[webman]

I removed the light and then rerouted cable from the motor to the right side. And reassembled headset tightening the top cap at about 2nm. One time of trail ride and still the headset cover has not spun yet and no play at headset.

I assume both cables, light and motor, are in the center part of that screwed on bit that controls how far the the handle can turn? There is an alloy ring with a gap underneath the cover. Do the holes line up at least?

 

[Jun]

I assume both cables, light and motor, are in the center part of that screwed on bit that controls how far the the handle can turn? There is an alloy ring with a gap underneath the cover. Do the holes line up at least?

Yes they were in the middle between stoppers. Cables were not pinched there. The metal compression ring and headset cover lined up at first but they seemed to catch the cables by moving different amount after a ride.

 

[Jun]

Is it possible to use some Loctite Blue on the thread? That usually stops stuff from moving.

Not interested in stopping the cover rotating but in finding out if the headset is safe to ride because I am not sure it's correctly assembled when I see the cover rotate after a ride though it never seems to have play.

 

[webman]

Yes they were in the middle between stoppers. Cables were not pinched there. The metal compression ring and headset cover lined up at first but they seemed to catch the cables by moving different amount after a ride.

So, just so I understand this correctly, the silver ring underneath stays at 12 o’clock and the black cover shifts around?

 

[Jun]

So, just so I understand this correctly, the silver ring underneath stays at 12 o’clock and the black cover shifts around?

silver ring rotates to the same direction as the cover. Not much difference.