2.6 front and 2.8 rearAre those 2.6's or 2.8'? I really want to go to a 2.6 but don't want to lose 1/4" in ground clearance and have pedal strikes more so than I already do.
Zim I think you must be definitely be a skilled & fearless rider for real so maybe Magura MT5 eSTOP & MDR-P 220mm rotors could be worthwhile?The other option was Magura MT5's
Does Bat B still show 36V when fully charged? - Surely should be nearer 42V?hello,
does anyone know what the differences are in these 2 exactly same batteries for kenevo and levo? been used on same bike kenevo expert 2019. differences circled in red.
one battery works longer than the other, i'm wondering if because of different hardware/firmware? why such difference in voltages?
sasha
View attachment 26648
bought the bike in july 2019 with battery A. bought battery B in january 2020. battery B works way better than A. i've seen battery health below 100% on friends' bikes so it's not true that it will show 100% health no matter what.Battery B looks like a newer version. Mine is Hardware 2 on a 2019 Kenevo, with the A.17.1 Firmware. Not sure if firmware 1 & 2 can be updated to A.20.0 (@Al Boneta ??? do you know ?)
The lower voltage on battery B is because it's only 36% charged, so the voltage drops as the charge level drops.
For the battery health, MC generally shows 100% no matter what. For a more accurate idea you'd need to check with blevo or egenesis.
The shimanos will swap straight on. Not sure about the others
Thats great. 220's added a bit of bite to the codes but theres still that squishy feeling. I like the instant power from the shimano 4 piston. Ez to regulate the power once im used to them. Ill take the extra power any day. At the end of the run or end of the day i think they pay dividends. I straightened my alignment on my codes with the 220 rotors and tested them on a couple rainy days. Thought i had it but thrn they were squealing. They may have gone out of alignment again or its just what it is. Cant be sure. That was in the fall. Record snow this winter so the eeb sits in the living room waiting. Might be a while. Curious how the 220's with 4 pot shimano will go for you.Installed a Zee caliper and lever. This is an easy straight swap and everything lines up and works correctly with the SRAM rotor, thanks @Dirtnvert .
The Code-R lever and the Zee lever are both basically the same shape and size, so they both feel the same from that respect and running the code on the front and the zee on the rear doesn't give any weird hand feeling.
The disk was thoroughly sanded and cleaned.
A quick ride to bed in and clear some fallen trees off the fire roads for a test.
Interestingly .. they still scream ! So it is the SRAM 200mm rotors which resonate. They only screamed once wet.
Feel wise, for me I prefer them. I didn't find them grabby - this was a super slippy sloppy mud fest and I felt like I had perfect brake control. I found them to be more predictable and effective - especially when wet. The SRAM's sometimes feel like you're just squeezing a sponge wondering when it's actually going to do something, the Zee's just add more braking corresponding to how hard you pull the lever. The SRAM's performance drops off hugely when they Scream, the Zee's felt exactly the same when screaming or not screaming
I'll be changing the front's next and will probably change the rear rotor. The front rotor I might upgrade to 220, maybe even the SRAM one. I think a few people have said that the 220 doesn't scream and whilst I'm not descending 10000 meters at 100kph, there is most likely a performance improvement, even if it's only in subtlety ..
Installed a Zee caliper and lever. This is an easy straight swap and everything lines up and works correctly with the SRAM rotor, thanks @Dirtnvert .
I'll be changing the front's next and will probably change the rear rotor. The front rotor I might upgrade to 220, maybe even the SRAM one. I think a few people have said that the 220 doesn't scream and whilst I'm not descending 10000 meters at 100kph, there is most likely a performance improvement, even if it's only in subtlety ..
You're gonna have a hard time riding on shimano rotors with SRAM brakes and vice versa. if you run max size rotors. Shimano runs 203mm rotors, while SRAM runs 200. And obviously their calipers are shaped differently, thus their adapters are clearanced differently as well.Words can mean so many things ... so adept at falling off and a bit stupid !
Thanks all. I'm drifting to the Shimano's for ease. Either mt520,zee,saint.
I did wonder about the ice tech rotors ...
Might install and ride in stages so I can see how they feel and ride with sram disks, shimano disks. code front, shimano rear .. just out of interest really
That’s what washers are for, then again we are talking about Zimmer here.You're gonna have a hard time riding on shimano rotors with SRAM brakes and vice versa. if you run max size rotors. Shimano runs 203mm rotors, while SRAM runs 200. And obviously their calipers are shaped differently, thus their adapters are clearanced differently as well.
If you're running code brakes, their adapters will clear THEIR 200mm rotors. NOT shimano 203mm rotors
Actually the hopes are 203mm also. On my xwing with the SRAM calipers/brackets and Hope discs, I used a spacer on the front of each caliper to get it perfectly inline with the disc.Thanks Yokev. Yes, the rear Zee works fine with the SRAM rotors and adapters. If I was to swap the rotor for a shimano, I'm not sure if the shimano caliper design would incorporate the extra 3mm of disk (1.5mm of rise) or if I'd need to space it out. I'm guessing the extra is worked into the caliper design, otherwise a standard fork/rear which would mount a SRAM caliper with no adapter would then need a 1.5mm adapter if the manufacturer put Shimano's on. But who knows ..
@Christian Washers ? So you pay people to clean the rotors so much that they end up smaller and fit ? That's some serious washing ..
From what I remember, on your x-wing, you ran rear 200mm floating hopes and 225 on the front. I take it the rear straight swapped and accommodated the magnet and didn't foul the calipers - or did you get them washed too ?
For the front, with the 225 .. what did you do adapter wise ? - other than a whole box of washers ?
I can tell you this from experience: The 3mm needs to be accounted for. Sram makes a spacer 'kit' with various sized individual spacers, and I tried using it to mix/match SRAM/Shimano years ago. It ended up being a clusterfuck. Never could get the pads to sit flush with the top of the rotor(s), and I couldn't get 'em to stop dragging. Now mind you, the older I get, the less patience I have, but all kidding aside, using a spacer kit in place of a proper adapter is wonky.Thanks Yokev. Yes, the rear Zee works fine with the SRAM rotors and adapters. If I was to swap the rotor for a shimano, I'm not sure if the shimano caliper design would incorporate the extra 3mm of disk (1.5mm of rise) or if I'd need to space it out. I'm guessing the extra is worked into the caliper design, otherwise a standard fork/rear which would mount a SRAM caliper with no adapter would then need a 1.5mm adapter if the manufacturer put Shimano's on. But who knows ..
@Christian Washers ? So you pay people to clean the rotors so much that they end up smaller and fit ? That's some serious washing ..
From what I remember, on your x-wing, you ran rear 200mm floating hopes and 225 on the front. I take it the rear straight swapped and accommodated the magnet and didn't foul the calipers - or did you get them washed too ?
For the front, with the 225 .. what did you do adapter wise ? - other than a whole box of washers ?
Why would you want to mix/match?
Hope make A 220 and a 225. But they don't make an adapter for the 225 ? they seem to suggest using some spacers....As far as I can see the Hope's are 220 mm and not 225 mm according to here:
Hope Floating 6-hole Disc Rotor | Brake Rotor Discs Shop
On a 180 mm post mount that means that a cheap +40 SRAM adapter will work just fine - I'm going for that setup myself together with my Hayes Dominion brakes.
Karsten
I'm the same way. I mean, especially with Saints, I get what people complain about the 'on/off' feeling-Hello Servo Wave-, but I regularly ride back and forth between my Firebird which has XT 4 pistons, and my Kenevo, which of course, are Codes. Like you, my hands/brain naturally work with whatever brakes I'm usingIt's not so much that I want to mix and match, it's just where circumstances are taking me at the moment.
When it was dry ..... (were those days real....) I didn't have a problem with the code's. OK, you had to pull the lever a lot more than I'd prefer for the amount of braking you get and they feel like they were intended originally for foot control rather than hand control, but they worked.
I don't fully understand all the different views of "modulation" between the SRAM's and the Shimano's. For me they feel like they both have modulation, neither is all or nothing. I think the Shimano's are possibly more controllable for people who are either used to them or just naturally have a more delicate hand control ?! I guess people who prefer the SRAM's over the Shimano's are normally used to having to pull the lever 6 inches to apply the brakes, so when they ride a shimano bike it feels like it's on or off ? Or people who have larger hands or less micro muscular control (I'm making things up as I go .... ) anyway .. that's not what we were discussing ..
So, Once it got wet I found I hated the Code's. When they start screaming in the wet they become completely unpredictable and massively lack effectiveness - unless you squeeze the lever back to the bars like a gorilla .. I want brakes which maintain more or less the same feel so when I brake, I slow down .. not make horn sounds whilst I fly straight on into a tree at 50kph only safe in the knowledge that someone might find me from the suddenly abrupt end to the horn sound. The only way to actually maintain a working brake whilst riding is to "ride" the brake constantly to keep it dry.
It's been wet everyday since September, so when the rear code seized three pistons I took it as an opportunity to change the lever/caliper to a Shimano Zee. Wasn't sure if I'd like it or not or how it would perform, so kept the original disk - also out of interest. If there's nothing inherently wrong with the existing SRAM disk, why change it just for branding if it will still works properly.
That's where we are .. I love the feel of the Zee over the Code. Yes, in the dry, I would be happy with either of them. But it's not dry .. I do feel slightly more confident with the Zee's on the back. From my quick test ride when I had nothing at the front, at least I could scrub some speed off with the back and have a degree of control whist the fronts slowly wake up.
When I change the front, it just seems sensible to try a rotor upgrade at the same time (and correct mount). Not sure what that will be. Maybe the SRAM 220 or a hope floating 220 or 225. The floating is supposed to be less prone to warping and as usable, effective & no hassle are all high on my requirements, they're looking most likely at the moment. I don't think the 246's are publicly available at the mo. I think there are some other's out there, but not sure what the quality/longevity/reliability is like.
Haha, sounds reasonable. Go the rest of the driveline! Get some Hope jockey wheels and bike yoke derailleur wheel. They made my blue Kenevo shift much better.I like new parts .. I'd like them sooner .. I really hope I don't have to wait two weeks ..
Uhmmm .. maybe if I order something more expensive, that can be set aside as "Birthday Ransom" and the brakes will be released from quarantine .. 2 weeks .. I don't want to be remembered as the first guy on earth to die from covid-19 before he even got to install his new Shimano's !
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