Kenevo Gen1 Official 2018/2019 Kenevo thread
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
-
- Tags
- brose kenevo levo specialized
Are those 2.6's or 2.8'? I really want to go to a 2.6 but don't want to lose 1/4" in ground clearance and have pedal strikes more so than I already do.
2.6 front and 2.8 rear
Running the same size combination on mine but in e-wilds. Works great.?
My rear code caliper has 2 pistons seized and 2 which keep doing random things so it needs a re-build. I'm not a fan of the codes and almost changed ages ago, so this seems like the ideal opportunity ..
Plan to keep things simple, so probably good old safe Shimano MT520's : link for example :
Shimano BR-MT520 + BL-MT501 Disc Brake Set
Which I think will work fine with and be compatible with :
Shimano SM-RT66 6-bolt Brake Rotor
Anyone know if this will straight swap on the Kenevo or will I need different spacers or anything else ?
The other option was Magura MT5's :
Magura MT5 Carbotecture® Front and Rear Disc Brake Set
with the storm disks :
Magura Storm HC 6-bolt Disc Brake Rotor
Again , will these straight swap ???
I think the Shimano's will be easier to bleed and I want an easy life
Not really interested in all the bells and whistles and doubt anything fancier would bring me any real world performance improvements. Just want easy and dependable !
Plan to keep things simple, so probably good old safe Shimano MT520's : link for example :
Shimano BR-MT520 + BL-MT501 Disc Brake Set
Which I think will work fine with and be compatible with :
Shimano SM-RT66 6-bolt Brake Rotor
Anyone know if this will straight swap on the Kenevo or will I need different spacers or anything else ?
The other option was Magura MT5's :
Magura MT5 Carbotecture® Front and Rear Disc Brake Set
with the storm disks :
Magura Storm HC 6-bolt Disc Brake Rotor
Again , will these straight swap ???
I think the Shimano's will be easier to bleed and I want an easy life
Not really interested in all the bells and whistles and doubt anything fancier would bring me any real world performance improvements. Just want easy and dependable !
Zim I think you must be definitely be a skilled & fearless rider for real so maybe Magura MT5 eSTOP & MDR-P 220mm rotors could be worthwhile?
Joeyrotundo
Member
Get the shimano ice tech rotors too.
hello,
does anyone know what the differences are in these 2 exactly same batteries for kenevo and levo? been used on same bike kenevo expert 2019. differences circled in red.
one battery works longer than the other, i'm wondering if because of different hardware/firmware? why such difference in voltages?
sasha
does anyone know what the differences are in these 2 exactly same batteries for kenevo and levo? been used on same bike kenevo expert 2019. differences circled in red.
one battery works longer than the other, i'm wondering if because of different hardware/firmware? why such difference in voltages?
sasha
brizi2003
Active member
@Zimmerframe - Both Shimano & Magura look about the same in terms of bleeding ease and pad changes. I've used Magura on motorcycles in the past and bleeding was a piece of cake. They were also great brakes. Parts etc. for Shimano might be easier to obtain(?) I have the MT520 brakes on a Powerfly LT7 and think they are more grabby than the SRAM Guide RE's on my Kenevo Comp which feel more progressive - personal preference I guess - and both brake adequately. Regarding mixing components - I've tried the MT520 discs and they don't clear the SRAM calipers - Is it because they are 203mm and the SRAM 200mm?
brizi2003
Active member
Does Bat B still show 36V when fully charged? - Surely should be nearer 42V?
bought the bike in july 2019 with battery A. bought battery B in january 2020. battery B works way better than A. i've seen battery health below 100% on friends' bikes so it's not true that it will show 100% health no matter what.
i don't know what blevo or egenesis and don't have motivation to look into those. it's already bad enough you can't go ride without a phone, or can't adjust settings without phone.
this battery difference from A to B is just something i noticed in lasting power and when i looked at both i noticed the differences in hardware and firmware, that's why i asked on this forum if maybe someone knows, because sure specialized ain't gonna answer this question if i write them.
Installed a Zee caliper and lever. This is an easy straight swap and everything lines up and works correctly with the SRAM rotor, thanks @Dirtnvert .
The Code-R lever and the Zee lever are both basically the same shape and size, so they both feel the same from that respect and running the code on the front and the zee on the rear doesn't give any weird hand feeling.
The disk was thoroughly sanded and cleaned.
A quick ride to bed in and clear some fallen trees off the fire roads for a test.
Interestingly .. they still scream ! So it is the SRAM 200mm rotors which resonate. They only screamed once wet.
Feel wise, for me I prefer them. I didn't find them grabby - this was a super slippy sloppy mud fest and I felt like I had perfect brake control. I found them to be more predictable and effective - especially when wet. The SRAM's sometimes feel like you're just squeezing a sponge wondering when it's actually going to do something, the Zee's just add more braking corresponding to how hard you pull the lever. The SRAM's performance drops off hugely when they Scream, the Zee's felt exactly the same when screaming or not screaming
I'll be changing the front's next and will probably change the rear rotor. The front rotor I might upgrade to 220, maybe even the SRAM one. I think a few people have said that the 220 doesn't scream and whilst I'm not descending 10000 meters at 100kph, there is most likely a performance improvement, even if it's only in subtlety ..
Thats great. 220's added a bit of bite to the codes but theres still that squishy feeling. I like the instant power from the shimano 4 piston. Ez to regulate the power once im used to them. Ill take the extra power any day. At the end of the run or end of the day i think they pay dividends. I straightened my alignment on my codes with the 220 rotors and tested them on a couple rainy days. Thought i had it but thrn they were squealing. They may have gone out of alignment again or its just what it is. Cant be sure. That was in the fall. Record snow this winter so the eeb sits in the living room waiting. Might be a while. Curious how the 220's with 4 pot shimano will go for you.Installed a Zee caliper and lever. This is an easy straight swap and everything lines up and works correctly with the SRAM rotor, thanks @Dirtnvert .
The Code-R lever and the Zee lever are both basically the same shape and size, so they both feel the same from that respect and running the code on the front and the zee on the rear doesn't give any weird hand feeling.
The disk was thoroughly sanded and cleaned.
A quick ride to bed in and clear some fallen trees off the fire roads for a test.
Interestingly .. they still scream ! So it is the SRAM 200mm rotors which resonate. They only screamed once wet.
Feel wise, for me I prefer them. I didn't find them grabby - this was a super slippy sloppy mud fest and I felt like I had perfect brake control. I found them to be more predictable and effective - especially when wet. The SRAM's sometimes feel like you're just squeezing a sponge wondering when it's actually going to do something, the Zee's just add more braking corresponding to how hard you pull the lever. The SRAM's performance drops off hugely when they Scream, the Zee's felt exactly the same when screaming or not screaming
I'll be changing the front's next and will probably change the rear rotor. The front rotor I might upgrade to 220, maybe even the SRAM one. I think a few people have said that the 220 doesn't scream and whilst I'm not descending 10000 meters at 100kph, there is most likely a performance improvement, even if it's only in subtlety ..
Zimmer,
When going 220 you should consider a floating disk as they apparently are less prone to both warping as well as screaming.
Karsten
You're gonna have a hard time riding on shimano rotors with SRAM brakes and vice versa. if you run max size rotors. Shimano runs 203mm rotors, while SRAM runs 200. And obviously their calipers are shaped differently, thus their adapters are clearanced differently as well.Words can mean so many things ... so adept at falling off and a bit stupid !
Thanks all. I'm drifting to the Shimano's for ease. Either mt520,zee,saint.
I did wonder about the ice tech rotors ...
Might install and ride in stages so I can see how they feel and ride with sram disks, shimano disks. code front, shimano rear .. just out of interest really
If you're running code brakes, their adapters will clear THEIR 200mm rotors. NOT shimano 203mm rotors
That’s what washers are for, then again we are talking about Zimmer here.
Actually the hopes are 203mm also. On my xwing with the SRAM calipers/brackets and Hope discs, I used a spacer on the front of each caliper to get it perfectly inline with the disc.Thanks Yokev. Yes, the rear Zee works fine with the SRAM rotors and adapters. If I was to swap the rotor for a shimano, I'm not sure if the shimano caliper design would incorporate the extra 3mm of disk (1.5mm of rise) or if I'd need to space it out. I'm guessing the extra is worked into the caliper design, otherwise a standard fork/rear which would mount a SRAM caliper with no adapter would then need a 1.5mm adapter if the manufacturer put Shimano's on. But who knows ..
@Christian Washers ? So you pay people to clean the rotors so much that they end up smaller and fit ? That's some serious washing ..
From what I remember, on your x-wing, you ran rear 200mm floating hopes and 225 on the front. I take it the rear straight swapped and accommodated the magnet and didn't foul the calipers - or did you get them washed too ?
For the front, with the 225 .. what did you do adapter wise ? - other than a whole box of washers ?
In regards to the dual crown and 220mm disc I just use the hope bracket/caliper also with a washer on the bottom to line it up perfectly. Dual crowns are set up for a 200 disc standard so the standard bracket works fine.
I can tell you this from experience: The 3mm needs to be accounted for. Sram makes a spacer 'kit' with various sized individual spacers, and I tried using it to mix/match SRAM/Shimano years ago. It ended up being a clusterfuck. Never could get the pads to sit flush with the top of the rotor(s), and I couldn't get 'em to stop dragging. Now mind you, the older I get, the less patience I have, but all kidding aside, using a spacer kit in place of a proper adapter is wonky.Thanks Yokev. Yes, the rear Zee works fine with the SRAM rotors and adapters. If I was to swap the rotor for a shimano, I'm not sure if the shimano caliper design would incorporate the extra 3mm of disk (1.5mm of rise) or if I'd need to space it out. I'm guessing the extra is worked into the caliper design, otherwise a standard fork/rear which would mount a SRAM caliper with no adapter would then need a 1.5mm adapter if the manufacturer put Shimano's on. But who knows ..
@Christian Washers ? So you pay people to clean the rotors so much that they end up smaller and fit ? That's some serious washing ..
From what I remember, on your x-wing, you ran rear 200mm floating hopes and 225 on the front. I take it the rear straight swapped and accommodated the magnet and didn't foul the calipers - or did you get them washed too ?
For the front, with the 225 .. what did you do adapter wise ? - other than a whole box of washers ?
Lemme ask you this: Why would you want to mix/match? In my experience, SRAM 200mm rotors last longer than the Shimano 203 ICE TECHs. The big shimanos warp easily, and they're REALLY sensitive to dust. They purple much quicker, and they get the moaning cow sound quicker. The ONLY Shimano rotors that actually do what Shimano sez they do insofar as removing heat and resisting purpling, are the FREEZAS. I ran Ice Techs for I dunno..10 years, replacing them 2--3 times yearly, but when I bought a Firebird 29 that came with 'em(they only mount to centerlock hubs), I couldn't cook 'em no way no how. And I'm 240lbs riding that particular bike strictly on gnarly DH runs.
What I've done on my Kenevo, is install SRAM 220mms both front and rear. They work really well, and they too resist discoloring from over-cooking. Between me and the Kenevo, we're just shy of 300lbs, and ride on steep, rocky, bombed-out, trails.
MIght wanna consider them. If you have 180mm post mount forks, then you simply get 40mm SRAM adapters. If you have a Kenevo, you have 180mm post mount front and rear.
Ironically I have ALWAYS hated SRAM. I would always have Saints on order when I bought a bike. Just so happened that when I bought my '18 Kenevo, the Saints were on BO, so I was forced to run the Codes for a while. I actually liked 'em. In the 18mo I owned that bike, I never had to replace any pads or rotors. Go figure... On my '20 Kenevo I iniitally kept the 200's, and ordered Trick Stuff pads. They're definitely stronger, but my rear lever travel would zero after a couple runs. Stepped up to the 220's( had to put the stock SRAM pads back in due to the 220's and the Trick Stuffs both being thicker than the OE stuff), and not only do I have better still braking power, but both ends also run much cooler now
BTW, I tried Hope v4s once. They came from Chain Reaction seized up(their excuse was they sat on the shelf for a while. They didn't have any rebuild kits in stock, and Hope wouldn't sell anything to the public. They eventually turned me onto some dude who sells Hope rebuild kits out of his garage i think in Texas so after a month I got 'em working.
What I didn't like about them, was I'd spend some time getting the lever travel and bite points perfect, then they'd change after a few runs, and from day to day. I think I paid around $800 all in for both brakes and their 'special' rotors that they take(IIRC they cost $225ea), so I ended up pitching the to someone for cheap and never looked back
Good luck with whatever you end up running
Last edited:
It's not so much that I want to mix and match, it's just where circumstances are taking me at the moment.
When it was dry ..... (were those days real....) I didn't have a problem with the code's. OK, you had to pull the lever a lot more than I'd prefer for the amount of braking you get and they feel like they were intended originally for foot control rather than hand control, but they worked.
I don't fully understand all the different views of "modulation" between the SRAM's and the Shimano's. For me they feel like they both have modulation, neither is all or nothing. I think the Shimano's are possibly more controllable for people who are either used to them or just naturally have a more delicate hand control ?! I guess people who prefer the SRAM's over the Shimano's are normally used to having to pull the lever 6 inches to apply the brakes, so when they ride a shimano bike it feels like it's on or off ? Or people who have larger hands or less micro muscular control (I'm making things up as I go ....
) anyway .. that's not what we were discussing .. So, Once it got wet I found I hated the Code's. When they start screaming in the wet they become completely unpredictable and massively lack effectiveness - unless you squeeze the lever back to the bars like a gorilla .. I want brakes which maintain more or less the same feel so when I brake, I slow down .. not make horn sounds whilst I fly straight on into a tree at 50kph only safe in the knowledge that someone might find me from the suddenly abrupt end to the horn sound. The only way to actually maintain a working brake whilst riding is to "ride" the brake constantly to keep it dry.
It's been wet everyday since September, so when the rear code seized three pistons I took it as an opportunity to change the lever/caliper to a Shimano Zee. Wasn't sure if I'd like it or not or how it would perform, so kept the original disk - also out of interest. If there's nothing inherently wrong with the existing SRAM disk, why change it just for branding if it will still works properly.
That's where we are .. I love the feel of the Zee over the Code. Yes, in the dry, I would be happy with either of them. But it's not dry .. I do feel slightly more confident with the Zee's on the back. From my quick test ride when I had nothing at the front, at least I could scrub some speed off with the back and have a degree of control whist the fronts slowly wake up.
When I change the front, it just seems sensible to try a rotor upgrade at the same time (and correct mount). Not sure what that will be. Maybe the SRAM 220 or a hope floating 220 or 225. The floating is supposed to be less prone to warping and as usable, effective & no hassle are all high on my requirements, they're looking most likely at the moment. I don't think the 246's are publicly available at the mo. I think there are some other's out there, but not sure what the quality/longevity/reliability is like.
As far as I can see the Hope's are 220 mm and not 225 mm according to here:
Hope Floating 6-hole Disc Rotor | Brake Rotor Discs Shop
On a 180 mm post mount that means that a cheap +40 SRAM adapter will work just fine - I'm going for that setup myself together with my Hayes Dominion brakes.
Karsten
Hope Floating 6-hole Disc Rotor | Brake Rotor Discs Shop
On a 180 mm post mount that means that a cheap +40 SRAM adapter will work just fine - I'm going for that setup myself together with my Hayes Dominion brakes.
Karsten
Hope make A 220 and a 225. But they don't make an adapter for the 225 ? they seem to suggest using some spacers....
In my experience 200mm is more than enough for braking but the bigger discs defiantly take longer to fade on long descents. Also look at Hope vented rotors, I’ve been told they offer great performance. Only catch is they only work with v4 calipers.
Also Hope defiantly do 220 and 225. I have one of each
I'm the same way. I mean, especially with Saints, I get what people complain about the 'on/off' feeling-Hello Servo Wave-, but I regularly ride back and forth between my Firebird which has XT 4 pistons, and my Kenevo, which of course, are Codes. Like you, my hands/brain naturally work with whatever brakes I'm usingIt's not so much that I want to mix and match, it's just where circumstances are taking me at the moment.
When it was dry ..... (were those days real....) I didn't have a problem with the code's. OK, you had to pull the lever a lot more than I'd prefer for the amount of braking you get and they feel like they were intended originally for foot control rather than hand control, but they worked.
I don't fully understand all the different views of "modulation" between the SRAM's and the Shimano's. For me they feel like they both have modulation, neither is all or nothing. I think the Shimano's are possibly more controllable for people who are either used to them or just naturally have a more delicate hand control ?! I guess people who prefer the SRAM's over the Shimano's are normally used to having to pull the lever 6 inches to apply the brakes, so when they ride a shimano bike it feels like it's on or off ? Or people who have larger hands or less micro muscular control (I'm making things up as I go ....
So, Once it got wet I found I hated the Code's. When they start screaming in the wet they become completely unpredictable and massively lack effectiveness - unless you squeeze the lever back to the bars like a gorilla .. I want brakes which maintain more or less the same feel so when I brake, I slow down .. not make horn sounds whilst I fly straight on into a tree at 50kph only safe in the knowledge that someone might find me from the suddenly abrupt end to the horn sound. The only way to actually maintain a working brake whilst riding is to "ride" the brake constantly to keep it dry.
It's been wet everyday since September, so when the rear code seized three pistons I took it as an opportunity to change the lever/caliper to a Shimano Zee. Wasn't sure if I'd like it or not or how it would perform, so kept the original disk - also out of interest. If there's nothing inherently wrong with the existing SRAM disk, why change it just for branding if it will still works properly.
That's where we are .. I love the feel of the Zee over the Code. Yes, in the dry, I would be happy with either of them. But it's not dry .. I do feel slightly more confident with the Zee's on the back. From my quick test ride when I had nothing at the front, at least I could scrub some speed off with the back and have a degree of control whist the fronts slowly wake up.
When I change the front, it just seems sensible to try a rotor upgrade at the same time (and correct mount). Not sure what that will be. Maybe the SRAM 220 or a hope floating 220 or 225. The floating is supposed to be less prone to warping and as usable, effective & no hassle are all high on my requirements, they're looking most likely at the moment. I don't think the 246's are publicly available at the mo. I think there are some other's out there, but not sure what the quality/longevity/reliability is like.
All I thought from all that dribble was where are the photos??
You're right ...
Don't get too excited ...
I know I know .. where's the SUPER HOT ! like option when you need it ..
How about this .. it fits well with Dull forum week :
Unfortunately, further images are at the mercy of the OH .. all products have been seized and declared "my birthday present" .. life's too short to argue .. I wait patiently for her to be in a good mood and dish them out early ..
Don't get too excited ...
I know I know .. where's the SUPER HOT ! like option when you need it ..
How about this .. it fits well with Dull forum week :
Unfortunately, further images are at the mercy of the OH .. all products have been seized and declared "my birthday present" .. life's too short to argue .. I wait patiently for her to be in a good mood and dish them out early ..
I like new parts and Happy Birthday!
Haha, sounds reasonable. Go the rest of the driveline! Get some Hope jockey wheels and bike yoke derailleur wheel. They made my blue Kenevo shift much better.I like new parts .. I'd like them sooner .. I really hope I don't have to wait two weeks ..
Uhmmm .. maybe if I order something more expensive, that can be set aside as "Birthday Ransom" and the brakes will be released from quarantine .. 2 weeks .. I don't want to be remembered as the first guy on earth to die from covid-19 before he even got to install his new Shimano's !
Question with those out there on the 1st gen 2018/2019 Kenevo. My Dad is looking to upgrade his dropper post from the strange tilty stock thing to a 150mm Brand X (he’s on a medium frame).
Anybody done this?
The brand x only comes in 31.6mm. From looking online it seems that the Kenevo is 34.9. Is he fine to run a dropper with a shim?
How easy is the installation of droppers on this model Kenevo. Can all internal cabling be accessed without dropping the motor?
Anybody done this?
The brand x only comes in 31.6mm. From looking online it seems that the Kenevo is 34.9. Is he fine to run a dropper with a shim?
How easy is the installation of droppers on this model Kenevo. Can all internal cabling be accessed without dropping the motor?
Similar threads
EMTB Forums
Latest articles
-
Introducing the Forestal e-Cygnus - a downcountry and XC emtb
The new Forestal e-Cygnus is a slightly unusual emtb. It comes in two... -
2025 M1 Sporttechnik EN 8.0 review
The M1 EN is one of four M1 models built on the same frame. Well, it’s...