M820 Bafang - LIGHTCARBON LCE930 Frame (lightweight)

[brbr]

Great to hear! What problem did you have with your motor though?

Very noisy, something probably broken inside. The motor did not allow the rear wheel to turn in reverse

 

[Chickon1]

Great to hear! What problem did you have with your motor though?

Shipping! I just bought it.

 

[Rohai]

The frame has a progressive leverage ratio. We have ran a coil on our test frame (for around 12 months), and current demo. You won’t necessarily require a progressive coil due to the nature of the curve (we use a standard spring).

There is fair amount of compression especially in the early stroke (so bear that in mind for the old pedal bob), but it really holds the ground well and is super supple; and without a harsh bottom out. Just make sure you get the correct spring rate to your weight for the suspension design, that is key.

We will be uploading recommended spring rates on our website for coils. Just a bit of work to do on everything else yet….! View attachment 145917

Awesome! Thank you very much for this. And thats a lovely looking bike you have! How are the pirellis? Always wanted to try them.

 

[Slaine]

The frame has a progressive leverage ratio. We have ran a coil on our test frame (for around 12 months), and current demo. You won’t necessarily require a progressive coil due to the nature of the curve (we use a standard spring).

There is fair amount of compression especially in the early stroke (so bear that in mind for the old pedal bob), but it really holds the ground well and is super supple; and without a harsh bottom out. Just make sure you get the correct spring rate to your weight for the suspension design, that is key.

We will be uploading recommended spring rates on our website for coils. Just a bit of work to do on everything else yet….! View attachment 145917

During your trials, the bike is on full 29" or mullet? 160mm, 170mm in front?
thanks in advance for your feedback

 

[RadicalBicycleCo]

Awesome! Thank you very much for this. And thats a lovely looking bike you have! How are the pirellis? Always wanted to try them.

This is our first time switching over from something that’s not a Wild Enduro. I believe the general consensus is the the newer Pirelli’s are very good, the previous models were not.

Seems to have plenty of grip and are very tough (to the point we have removed the rimpacts). Only disadvantage there I guess is they are not particularly supple or light, but a fair trade off.

 

[RadicalBicycleCo]

During your trials, the bike is on full 29" or mullet? 160mm, 170mm in front?
thanks in advance for your feedback

Always 160mm max from us, we would not run or recommend a 170mm PERSONALLY. It’s easy to get sucked into adding more, but more is not always better! Especially if you ran a 170mm mullet set up; the geo alterations there can get quite significant.

Obviously there are others on here that a clearly pretty happy with their set up on a 170mm.

We primarily run a 29’ set up as we believe that’s what most customers will opt for. Definitely a fan of the mullet though!

 

[Philipp_BO]

@RadicalBicycleCo How much does your red bike weigh? Which battery are you using? Which wheels?

Thanks for the Informations.

 

[RadicalBicycleCo]

@RadicalBicycleCo How much does your red bike weigh? Which battery are you using? Which wheels?

Thanks for the Informations.

We went for a very weighty build coming in at apx 21kg on this particular bike (and our test frame). We did this for 2x reasons; to test the motor range at worst case, but also because we do throw some abuse at our bike.

Bomber Coil shock & Forks, heavy springs, weighty Wheelset and tires. Also using large 2.3mm rotors paired to 4pot XT brakes with an SLX drivetrain. You would loose 1kg if not more with a lighter suspension set up alone to be honest.

We use the 410w battery. You can view the info on our website

www.radicalbicycleco.com

 

[Chickon1]

Only chiner thing Ive found so far. Can you spot it?

 

[Rohai]

Always 160mm max from us, we would not run or recommend a 170mm PERSONALLY. It’s easy to get sucked into adding more, but more is not always better! Especially if you ran a 170mm mullet set up; the geo alterations there can get quite significant.

Obviously there are others on here that a clearly pretty happy with their set up on a 170mm.

We primarily run a 29’ set up as we believe that’s what most customers will opt for. Definitely a fan of the mullet though!

interesing about the 170mm adivce.. i run a full 29 and was planning to go up to 170 up front. Wondering who else is running 170 up front and how is it

 

[Sayonara]

interesing about the 170mm adivce.. i run a full 29 and was planning to go up to 170 up front. Wondering who else is running 170 up front and how is it

Why is it interesting? That's the same what Lightcarbon recommends. Geo and suspension charts change drastically when you lift the front up so much and doesn't work how they are designed to work.

 

[Goff]

interesing about the 170mm adivce.. i run a full 29 and was planning to go up to 170 up front. Wondering who else is running 170 up front and how is it

180 Fox 38 Factory on mine, turns it into a decent enduro bike.

 

[Dirtnvert]

Putting an extra 10mm on the front has less of a change in geo than making it a mullet. A 170 fork only slackens the head and seat angle .4⁰ and raises the bb 3mm.
You lose atleast 1⁰ by making it a mullet so the bb drops 8ish mm.
I'd still probably do both, 170 and mullet, and add offset bushings in the shock. Reverse the offset bushings(with a dab of blue loctite so they dont rotate) to gain back most of that 1⁰ lost and 8mm bb drop, from mulleting it

 

[Sayonara]

Putting an extra 10mm on the front has less of a change in geo than making it a mullet. A 170 fork only slackens the head and seat angle .4⁰ and raises the bb 3mm.
You lose atleast 1⁰ by making it a mullet so the bb drops 8ish mm.
I'd still probably do both, 170 and mullet, and add offset bushings in the shock. Reverse the offset bushings(with a dab of blue loctite so they dont rotate) to gain back most of that 1⁰ lost and 8mm bb drop, from mulleting it

If I remember correctly the geo numbers and suspension graphs are with 150mm fork. I might be wrong tho.

So going extra 20mm travel changes everything quite a bit already and going mullet throws everything already measured out of the window.

Making the fork longer also changes seat tube angle, wheel base lenght, reach etc. Making the bike handle very differently. These changes can be good or bad thing depending on multitude of things.

The LCE930 and LCE971 are known to be very well designed frames already. People seem to enjoy the geo number and how the suspension works on the frame.

Not saying the frame would be terrible with these changes but just saying that keep these things in mind before you commit to these changes. Maybe the bike will turn into your dream bike!

Personally I don't like mullet at all. I hate how the 27,5" rear wheel "drops" into every small gap between roots and rocks where as with 29" you can smoothly glide over the smaller gaps between roots and rocks. But I know some people really like it. Each for their own!

It’s easy to get sucked into adding more, but more is not always better! Especially if you ran a 170mm mullet set up; the geo alterations there can get quite significant.

Like mentioned here. It's easy to get into thinking you need more travel when the bike would actually work and handle better with less.

You actually need to ride quite hard to actually get the benefit of the longer travel. Even if you are a heavier (in terms of body weight) rider you can keep shorter travel but switch from air shock to coil and be really happy with it.

 

[Chickon1]

If I remember correctly the geo numbers and suspension graphs are with 150mm fork. I might be wrong tho.

So going extra 20mm travel changes everything quite a bit already and going mullet throws everything already measured out of the window.

Making the fork longer also changes seat tube angle, wheel base lenght, reach etc. Making the bike handle very differently. These changes can be good or bad thing depending on multitude of things.

The LCE930 and LCE971 are known to be very well designed frames already. People seem to enjoy the geo number and how the suspension works on the frame.

Not saying the frame would be terrible with these changes but just saying that keep these things in mind before you commit to these changes. Maybe the bike will turn into your dream bike!

Personally I don't like mullet at all. I hate how the 27,5" rear wheel "drops" into every small gap between roots and rocks where as with 29" you can smoothly glide over the smaller gaps between roots and rocks. But I know some people really like it. Each for their own!



Like mentioned here. It's easy to get into thinking you need more travel when the bike would actually work and handle better with less.

You actually need to ride quite hard to actually get the benefit of the longer travel. Even if you are a heavier (in terms of body weight) rider you can keep shorter travel but switch from air shock to coil and be really happy with it.

I've messed around with this quite a bit on my Kenevo. Changing the travel barely makes any impact on HT angle vs other changes like tires. A 2.4 rear and 2.6 front has more impact than 20mm of travel. It's all triangles.

Other part as people mentioned, designed with 150mm.. What is that based on? Forks from different brands have various axle to crown measurements impacting the HT.

Why do you think this frame is so cheap? How much beta testing have the done with pro races to make minor adjustments with certain components to get the optimal "one size fits all".

Build it how you want, this is why people buy these types of items.

 

[Dirtnvert]

The difference in peoples body measurements within a certain size would vary more than reach, cs, and wb length.
If youre not using your travel, however much you have, its sprung to stiff. The one anomaly is super light riders can find it hard to buy a product with light enough damping to use their travel

 

[xtraman122]

interesing about the 170mm adivce.. i run a full 29 and was planning to go up to 170 up front. Wondering who else is running 170 up front and how is it

When Rob's new video comes out you'll get a chance to see a good review of it, they used a 170mm Fox 38 in their build. Hopefully the new video comes out soon, should be a lot of good insight into how it handles there.

 

[Rohai]

Hi folks, i have another question.. on the rear suspension. This will be my first time with a trunion mount. I understand the bottom shock is a 22.2x8mm which will require the corresponding hardware to fit. The top as a trunion mount, is there are hardware needed? or does the shox bolt on direct to the linkage?

 

[Slaine]

Hi folks, i have another question.. on the rear suspension. This will be my first time with a trunion mount. I understand the bottom shock is a 22.2x8mm which will require the corresponding hardware to fit. The top as a trunion mount, is there are hardware needed? or does the shox bolt on direct to the linkage?

For trunnion side frame be delivred with bolt

 

[RadicalBicycleCo]

We’ve been out doing some shooting and filming today…. Keep an eye out for the video! View attachment DSC01585.jpeg

 

[brbr]

New motor (spare - 43V) arrived yesterday and I rode it today, I did not have the time yet to plug the besst and check the fw but this version is awful !
It feels like it's another motor, absolutely zero overrun, not powerful at all (feeling), power delivery is not smooth, that's a nightmare !
I wil have to update it asap but I don't have a Windows laptop right now available
Also, ordered the new DPC080, it's quite nice
PS: I know, my dropper cable is too long

View attachment tempImage4RnvWg.jpg

 

[Radolf]

You don't you have a preview from the display level to the fw version? I'm very curious what you have uploaded, because I felt more power on 43V fw already on 48V fw, only the support disconnected for a long time after stopping pedaling

 

[brbr]

You don't you have a preview from the display level to the fw version? I'm very curious what you have uploaded, because I felt more power on 43V fw already on 48V fw, only the support disconnected for a long time after stopping pedaling

 

[brbr]

Now, I should test the new CRX30PC4313E102001 3_eMTB_230317

 

[Radolf]

I haven't seen this version of 43V FW.

 

[sandnap]

Now, I should test the new CRX30PC4313E102001 3_eMTB_230317

I updated from the 10A to 13A firmware and noticed a difference. I only have one short ride on it though. I am interested in your findings.

 

[brbr]

I updated from the 10A to 13A firmware and noticed a difference. I only have one short ride on it though. I am interested in your findings.

I need to find a laptop and I'll update this asap

 

[Freda]

I am running CRX30PC4313E102004.3. It has power enough, but not smooth at all and overrun is loooong. Difficult to use on technical trails. Might be eroad version. It is available in the M820 firmware thread.

 

[Slaine]

hello,
I ride this bike now since couple of months. I ride this bike with 150mm because i choose mullet wheel.
I ask all community of this bike if you find difficulty to have pop on the front?
I have an other ebike, Turbo Levo Comp Carbon, and i have more facilyty to play with the front of this bike than my LCE930.
I have the project to ride full 29" with 160mm fork. do you think it is the right way? do you have the same sensation like me?
thanks for your feebback

 

[brbr]

hello,
I ride this bike now since couple of months. I ride this bike with 150mm because i choose mullet wheel.
I ask all community of this bike if you find difficulty to have pop on the front?
I have an other ebike, Turbo Levo Comp Carbon, and i have more facilyty to play with the front of this bike than my LCE930.
I have the project to ride full 29" with 160mm fork. do you think it is the right way? do you have the same sensation like me?
thanks for your feebback

I ride full 29 with 170mm, I don’t feel it lacks pop in the front. It’s heavy of course, and the Zeb absorbs a lot of energy but it’s ok to me