Ebike weight - does it make a difference ?

[neiloxford]

I have just purchased a trek rail 5, which I think is a fantastic bike.

I am making some upgrades, such as a lyrik, better tyres and better brakes.

I am wondering whether it is worth spending money to make it lighter. Does weight make a difference to a eMTB ?

On my old enduro bike it made a difference to lose 1.5kg, but at 24kg, is there a material benefit to get down to 22.5kg ?

 

[KeithR]

You're going to get people saying yes, and people saying no - it's a subjective, personal thing. How and where you ride will make a difference to whether you'll notice the difference.

 

[highpeakrider]

I’m going to say no, In my view on an ebike it’s better to have stronger longer lasting parts rather than save a few grams.

 

[Steve940]

Just my opinion but an ebike is never going to be a normal mtb,weight wise...just ride and enjoy

 

[Philly G]

I have just purchased a trek rail 5, which I think is a fantastic bike.

I am making some upgrades, such as a lyrik, better tyres and better brakes.

I am wondering whether it is worth spending money to make it lighter. Does weight make a difference to a eMTB ?

On my old enduro bike it made a difference to lose 1.5kg, but at 24kg, is there a material benefit to get down to 22.5kg ?

Losing some weight will have a positive effect on battery range, might be neglible though. You could look at reducing unsprung weight, lighter wheels, convert to tubeless. Carbon bars to lighten up the front end and reduce trail chatter. The weight of the motor & battery, being centred and low in the frame, can be a benefit I think, gives stability and plantedness, you do lose some playfulness, but the weight does kind of disappear when you ride. One thing for sure, you'll still be able to nail climbs that were a struggle on your accoustic, despite the chunk!

 

[Doug Stampfer]

Had an experience the other day that showed the good & bad of the extra weight. Rode an off camber track in the mud which is always sketchy on an accoustic bike however the added weight dug through the surface mud to the harder surface underneath. I could see the other tyre marks compared to mine. However further on going down a chute the extra weight & momentum carried me down & off the track snowploughing past the corner. Had to do the 'ride-past of shame' with a long muddy streak down my side.

Nothing to do with weight but I'd suggest a longer dropper post if you're taller. Those stock short ones are more inhibiting than anything

 

[taxidriver50005]

For competition I would say yes..for everything else no, I think you would be better losing weight off the total system weight....the heaviest part is probably the best place to start.
I'm trying to lose 10kg off total system weight..a figure impossible to lose off the bike.???

 

[Doomanic]

I'm going to say "yes". I have a Rail 7 and the only thing I regret about buying it is that I didn't spend the extra on the 9.7 for the weight saving. A lighter bike is more agile but the get a decent weight saving without sacrificing reliability you'll end up spending a bomb. Wheels is a good place to lose weight, but at a significant cost.

the heaviest part is probably the best place to start.

I've dropped 30KG this year, it's certainly made a difference...

 

[dobbyhasfriends]

better off going on a diet and losing a few kilos yourself.. diminishing returns on trying to lighten an ebike

 

[Philpug]

I'd like to spend some time on a sub 40lb bike before I say weight matters. I like the idea of a lighter bike, smaller motor smaller battery, lower top end (10-12MPH), with a range of 20-30 miles.

 

[KeithR]

I'd like to spend some time on a sub 40lb bike before I say weight matters. I like the idea of a lighter bike, smaller motor smaller battery, lower top end (10-12MPH), with a range of 20-30 miles.

For the most part the Specialized Turbo Levo SL sounds like your perfect bike, Phil. It has a higher top end than you're looking for, but the range requirement is no problem at all.

 

[Binhill1]

I have just purchased a trek rail 5, which I think is a fantastic bike.

I am making some upgrades, such as a lyrik, better tyres and better brakes.

I am wondering whether it is worth spending money to make it lighter. Does weight make a difference to a eMTB ?

On my old enduro bike it made a difference to lose 1.5kg, but at 24kg, is there a material benefit to get down to 22.5kg ?

How much lighter could you actually make it dont forget you get a bit more speed on down hill if it is heavier as well. Must admit lifting an Ebike over a deer fence would not be easy even carrying up short distance is a night mare.

 

[R120]

I would say yes it does, however I think its important in a different way to which the OP is framing his question.

For me when looking at EMTB's I want something with a reasonably low weight, but I wouldn't buy the bike based off it just being the lightest - what I am looking at is how the weight is placed and located on the bike.

If you take a bike like the Whyte E150/60/80 whilst they weigh in at close to 25 kg, the way the weight is placed low down and centered due to the design means that they ride a lot lighter than the weight would suggest. Some bikes ride "heavy" due to the location of and how far the battery extends up the downtube, making them hard to pop the front end up.

The same logic applies to making an existing bike lighter - there's a limit to how much lighter you can make an EMTB due to the need for strong components, but if you are going to do so spend the money in areas which will actually benefit the handling in relation to the design of your own bike, and will make it ride lighter, not just in a way that gets the figure down but doesn't make a jot of difference to how it rides.

 

[neiloxford]

Ok, thanks for confirming my thoughts. I will get a spank spike vibrocore handlebar, some better grips, and be done with the upgrades for now. Then just enjoy the bike When the wheels get knackered, I will upgrade those.

 

[jsharpe]

For the most part the Specialized Turbo Levo SL sounds like your perfect bike, Phil. It has a higher top end than you're looking for, but the range requirement is no problem at all.

My last (clockwork xc) bike weighed right at 20 pounds all-in with Stans, pedals, Garmin, and some mud. Even the S-Works SL felt like a tank in comparison. Given my age, where and how I ride, if I'm going to take on the "baggage" of pedal assist I want to get the most battery and power I can and a the difference between even 30 and 50lbs isn't a big deal. Sure if I could get regular Levo kind of assist from an SL that would be preferable, but that isn't the case so the tradeoff isn't worth it for me. Many of my rides are long (40mile) xc type things with lots of often steep elevation gains (>6K ft) at elevation (>10K ft). 20 years ago the SL might have been interesting, but even then I preferred to keep the tires on the ground so "toss-ability" wasn't a priority.

 

[KeithR]

My last (clockwork xc) bike weighed right at 20 pounds all-in with Stans, pedals, Garmin, and some mud. Even the S-Works SL felt like a tank in comparison. Given my age, where and how I ride, if I'm going to take on the "baggage" of pedal assist I want to get the most battery and power I can and a the difference between even 30 and 50lbs isn't a big deal. Sure if I could get regular Levo kind of assist from an SL that would be preferable, but that isn't the case so the tradeoff isn't worth it for me. Many of my rides are long (40mile) xc type things with lots of often steep elevation gains (>6K ft) at elevation (>10K ft). 20 years ago the SL might have been interesting, but even then I preferred to keep the tires on the ground so "toss-ability" wasn't a priority.

Yep, I get the argument.

As a counterpoint, your background, and riding style sound like mine (except for the elevation), and of the two ebikes I own - a heavy "full fat" Cube Stereo 140, and a Specialized Turbo Levo SL Comp - I can say that the Levo is far and away the most fun to ride trails and singletrack on. It just feels like a normal bike, but it will get you home if you blow up ten miles out.

I'm not much for jumping either - I'll do it, but I don't seek it out (I recently turned 60, and I'm a bit more cautious now..!) - and for me, the nimbleness and responsiveness of the Levo still wins out over the grunt of the Cube.

But if I was climbing as much as you do, I might well feel differently, for sure.

 

[KeithR]

For me when looking at EMTB's I want something with a reasonably low weight, but I wouldn't buy the bike based off it just being the lightest - what I am looking at is how the weight is placed and located on the bike.

If you take a bike like the Whyte E150/60/80 whilst they weigh in at close to 25 kg, the way the weight is placed low down and centered due to the design means that they ride a lot lighter than the weight would suggest. Some bikes ride "heavy" due to the location of and how far the battery extends up the downtube, making them hard to pop the front end up.

The same logic applies to making an existing bike lighter - there's a limit to how much lighter you can make an EMTB due to the need for strong components, but if you are going to do so spend the money in areas which will actually benefit the handling in relation to the design of your own bike, and will make it ride lighter, not just in a way that gets the figure down but doesn't make a jot of difference to how it rides.

Yep, this. Buying light and making lighter are two different things, and there's a practical safe limit to the latter.

As to the OP's question about whether dropping 1.5 kg from his Rail would make a noticeable difference, I personally doubt it. I understand the appeal of light bikes, but as you say, where the weight is (and isn't) is the key.

 

[paquo]

Ok, thanks for confirming my thoughts. I will get a spank spike vibrocore handlebar, some better grips, and be done with the upgrades for now. Then just enjoy the bike When the wheels get knackered, I will upgrade those.

good plan and when conditions are right you can put on fast rolling tires

 

[All Mountain Coaching]

Depends how active a rider you are. For me, yes it makes a big difference. Taking 15% off the levo made a noticeable difference. Now on the SL which is some 25% lighter still makes a huge difference!

If you just sit down and spin everywhere I'd say no.

 

[KeithR]

The OP asked about whether cutting 1.5 kg would be worthwhile - he would have to get 3.6 kg off his Rail to save 15%. Is that even possible?

 

[steve_sordy]

Some bikes have a limit to how much the bike + rider can weigh. So if you are close to that, then a lighter bike will help, but we are not talking a few grams here are we?

The weight also matters if you have to lift the bike at all (fences, styles, roof racks etc). A couple of kilos there can make a difference, especially if you are injured.

 

[KeithR]

The weight also matters if you have to lift the bike at all (fences, styles, roof racks etc). A couple of kilos there can make a difference, especially if you are injured.

True dat - I still can't lift my Cube over stuff because of my knackered shoulder, the Levo is far more doable.

 

[steve_sordy]

My Focus 9.6 NINE with just the frame battery weighs 20.4kg (45lbs). The new Focus with the 625Whr battery and Bosch motor in alloy frame weighs 24.7kg (54.5lbs). OK, I know its only 4.3kg (9.5lbs), but there is a straw that breaks the camel's back and that is the straw that will break mine.
Even with the TEC pac fitted, the bike is still more than 2kg (4.5lbs) lighter and it has 12% more Whr.

Also, another reason to have a lighter emtb is that the same battery will propel a lighter load further.

 

[KeithR]

OK, I know its only 4.3kg

Now that sounds like a very noticeable lump of weight to me - remember that the OP was only asking about a 1.5kg difference, which is only the weight of the liquid in a full large water bottle.

Also, another reason to have a lighter emtb is that the same battery will propel a lighter load further.

Yeah, I've already seen that from my Levo - I'm going further, and coming back with more battery, than I ever used to on the 500 Wh Cube.

 

[Gary]

I am wondering whether it is worth spending money to make it lighter. Does weight make a difference to a eMTB ?

Yes. Massively
Sub 22.6kg or 50lb is a lot more playful and fun to throw around than 24kg ever will be.
I kinda hate riding Eebs that weigh much more than 50lb

 

[Philly G]

Yes. Massively
Sub 22.6kg or 50lb is a lot more playful and fun to throw around than 24kg ever will be.
I kinda hate riding Eebs that weigh much more than 50lb

Problem being, the OP, and I guess most of us who ride full fat eebs, haven't got a hope of getting the weight sub 22.6kg.

 

[Gary]

Problem being, the OP, and I guess most of us who ride full fat eebs, haven't got a hope of getting the weight sub 22.6kg.

What are you even talking about?

My E8000 504wh 170mm travel FS Eeb is 21.3kg

 

[Doomanic]

He hasn't got a Vitus though...

 

[R120]

We cant all live the dream

 

[TheBikePilot]

How deep is your wallet?

Getting it significantly lighter now is going to cost you a fair bit and it becomes the cost/benefit.

Light strong parts cost a lot, and you need strong on an eeb. I would say just enjoy your bike and at the next purchase look at a lighter model. If you can demo an SL or something give it a try.

I changed out the wheelset and cassette and saved 1.2kg but overall cost came in at around £1200..