Dengfu E22 Frame Thread

[bram.biesiekierski]

As for my fitness. I used to be pretty fit before. Not an Olympic level, but not bad either. Then I got a severe heart injury from the covid vaccine. And that destroyed me. I was in hospital for a week, off work for a month, and unable to ride for nearly a year.

Thats why I bought the E bike in the first place, so I could ride again, and recover from my heart injury. Which it has definitely helped with that. I'm now feeling alot better. But I'm definitely not at my prior fitness level. My bike fitness / strength, like arms, pecks, legs, torso that kind of stuff for riding is like as before. But my cardio / aerobic fitness still not there yet. But it is improving.

I also trying to lose the weight I gained while I was recovering and unable to do any excersize. It goes on alot easier than it comes off.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

And as for the battery range. I get about 20 - 25kms of hard use per charge.

When i first got the bike, I used to only get about 15kms per charge. But as my fitness improves, I pedal more and get more range. And my bike skill is also returning, so I'm carrying more speed through the bends / obstacles. Which means less motor acceleration after each feature.

I have 2 batteries now, so I just swap em out when they run low. That last ride I put the STRAVA up for, I got about 40 kms out of the 2 batteries. But I only used about 65-70% out of each battery. So I think about 25kms per charge is about right. I just don't like the last 25% as it really slows down with power limiting.

 

[Easyp]

Epic build on this, this is what i want todo do you have any idea approximate cost of all of the components cost minus the cost of the frame?

I am not sure whether to do the same with the E22 frame or wait for the E55 because the battery compartment is larger with some other changes

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Epic build on this, this is what i want todo do you have any idea approximate cost of all of the components cost minus the cost of the frame?

I am not sure whether to do the same with the E22 frame or wait for the E55 because the battery compartment is larger with some other changes

Have any details or info on the e55???

 

[Easyp]

i think someone has posted it already

Dengfu E55 and E56，New selection of DIY frame

New selection of DIY frame Dengfu E55 and E56 will be listed in November, with no purchase restrictions in the world. The frames of the new products are similar to those of E22 and E23, both of which are M620 motor frames, as well as a mountain bike and a snowmobile. The travel is 150mm. The...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[Bengy22]

Man I am loving this bike. Everytime I ride it, it's KOMs. I got 9 on this ride. And this is at one of the most popular MTB trail networks on this side of the continent.

Stupid Kindernay Shifter has stopped shifting up gears now aswell. Think the fluid has leaked out. Hoping a re-bleed will fix it.

Check out my activity on Strava: https://strava.app.link/atvk6SNDTub

View attachment 101308

Man seems like you never catch a break when it comes to shifting issues, did you fix the Kindernay with a rebleed? Also every time I see your bike I want to do a e22 build, just looks so good! E55 doesn't even come close to that beauty

 

[CalyMike]

This will hopefully help you @bram.biesiekierski

Shock Bushings | Dengfu E10

Upgrade your Dengfu E10 with our Shock Bushing kit. Made in the UK. Worldwide Shipping.

www.offsetbushings.com

It's the same bushings as the E10 so reach out to @Offset.

They do ship worldwide and they can provide you with the exact hardware requirements for your intended shock

Question for you guys that have knowledge on the E22 frames I currently have a 230mm x 60mm rear shock could I change the shock to 230mm x 65mm thank you.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Question for you guys that have knowledge on the E22 frames I currently have a 230mm x 60mm rear shock could I change the shock to 230mm x 65mm thank you.

Yes. You need to use at least 1 offset bush to get clearance at full extension.

You should also pin the bush, so it cannot rotate.

I have done this on my bike. I put the offset bush in the linkage yoke. I used a small drill bit as a pin to prevent rotation. And then cut it off with just a small amount protruding so I can remove it when needed.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Man seems like you never catch a break when it comes to shifting issues, did you fix the Kindernay with a rebleed? Also every time I see your bike I want to do a e22 build, just looks so good! E55 doesn't even come close to that beauty

Yes. Re-bled and it's shifting again. But the up doesn't feel quite as good as the down. Might have a small air lock or something.

I know MTB brakes and stuff can be notorious for being difficult to bleed. But kindernay is a whole nother level of difficulty. Their bleed hardware is so small. And I really dislike using pressure to bleed. I much prefer vacuum to bleed.

I have hope brakes, and thier bleed screws are bigger, thier resovoir is naturally facing up, and it is accessable with the lid removed, and it just works so much better. Hope have clearly thought about what they are doing with thier hydraulics. Whereas kindernay have built this amazing looking shifter, it's a work of art to look at, but in actual use it's a PITA and not that great functionality.

The more and more I use the kindernay, the more and more things I find that just annoy me. I just don't think it's as good as it could be. They try to be too clever, and it makes it into a worse product.

 

[taserface]

The more and more I use the kindernay, the more and more things I find that just annoy me. I just don't think it's as good as it could be. They try to be too clever, and it makes it into a worse product.

If you had to do it all over again, would you still go that route? If not, would you go that route if you were forced to stick to IGH? If not, what other IGH might you consider?

Not to say everyone else's experience (or mine) will be the same as yours, I always like to hear what potential critics have to say about an expensive product I'm considering ... kindernay vii is at the top of my list for my e22 build, currently (very interested in 3x3 nine hub, but looks like might be too far out at this point or perhaps the revolute hub1, etc).

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

If you had to do it all over again, would you still go that route? If not, would you go that route if you were forced to stick to IGH? If not, what other IGH might you consider?

Not to say everyone else's experience (or mine) will be the same as yours, I always like to hear what potential critics have to say about an expensive product I'm considering ... kindernay vii is at the top of my list for my e22 build, currently (very interested in 3x3 nine hub, but looks like might be too far out at this point or perhaps the revolute hub1, etc).

I think with the power of the ultra, and the inherent power limitations of conventional cassettes, an IGH really is the best option.

But I dont know if kindernay is the best IGH. I only went with kindernay as the 3x3-9 IGH was not available. And likewise, revolute was on my list aswell.

At the time of my purchase, Kindernay was the best looking option, that was available to purchase immediately. The rohlof was quickly ruled out due to 14 close ratio gears, and lack of sales of boost 148 option. (Apparently they only sell them as an OEM option.)

3x3 was looking like it's still a year or 2 until direct sales were available. (Again, they looking for OEM sales / contracts first.)

And revolute was pre order.

Also, atleast kindernay had runs on the board with thier 14 spd option. The others were completely unknown. And new to market products always have bugs to work through for the first generation anyways.

I think if I was doing it again, I'd skip buying cassettes. Because I wasted alot of money on regular 12spd and 9spd groupsets before going kindernay.

Buying a IGH straight up, would have been the smarter financial option for me. But I did not know I was going to have such severe cassette wear problems initially.

 

[TeoElFeo]

And as for the battery range. I get about 20 - 25kms of hard use per charge.

When i first got the bike, I used to only get about 15kms per charge. But as my fitness improves, I pedal more and get more range. And my bike skill is also returning, so I'm carrying more speed through the bends / obstacles. Which means less motor acceleration after each feature.

Glad to hear you're recovering! I am a bit surprised by the relatively low range per battery. When you say hard use which kind of power levels are you talking about (watts or amps) Also, do you use stock dengfu batteries?

 

[Cigales]

@Mabman
What settings did you apply to the m620/G510 while using a 52V battery?

I've just finished building the bike and have had small ride but motor is hardly assisting. I'm wondering if my settings are wrong. I tried @Neeko DeVinchi settings, as well as Ultra Smooth Frey settings found on internet but to no avail.

Eggrider is display some rather high instant watt values when riding but it must be an error. It often reads ~700w-900w but I'm feeling no more than 100w more or less.

Any ideas?

 

[Mabman]

Assuming you have a UART motor in the program I have it set to 52v, but my other 15ah 21700 cell battery is 48v. The only thing I change when swapping batteries is via the display options of 48v/52v and even that doesn't make much difference as far as I can tell.

I don't have screen shots of my tune but it is a combination of all the different ones on youtube with some tweaks that I figured out via riding/resetting. I have never had your issues however so I am not sure what to say about your situation? If I have time I will pull out my Windows laptop and make some copies of my settings. I know for sure that they work well for my needs but I have seen that people are happy with the Smooth tune and when I installed it it didn't work well for me at all. Not sure about Neeko's tune but I am sure it works as he is pretty savvy about the M620.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Glad to hear you're recovering! I am a bit surprised by the relatively low range per battery. When you say hard use which kind of power levels are you talking about (watts or amps) Also, do you use stock dengfu batteries?

I Keep the PAS setting at about 3 out of 5 most of the time. And then use the throttle liberally aswell for max power burst. I like to keep the thing singing. When I ride, I don't really like to plod along. I go as fast as I can through the trails.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

I don't ride MTB for a casual tourist ride. I like the adrenalin. I like the physical side of riding hard. I like the challenge of doing a trail/segment as fast as I possibly can.

I have 1 battery that was ordered via dengfu with the frame and motor. And the second battery I ordered from Ding Tai Battery. They both 48v, 17.5ah, 840wh, with 18650s in standard config and standard case. They both give about the same endurance. But I think the DIng Tai one has a little more power for the first 50%.

 

[Swannking]

I don't ride MTB for a casual tourist ride. I like the adrenalin. I like the physical side of riding hard. I like the challenge of doing a trail/segment as fast as I possibly can.

I have 1 battery that was ordered via dengfu with the frame and motor. And the second battery I ordered from Ding Tai Battery. They both 48v, 17.5ah, 840wh, with 18650s in standard config and standard case. They both give about the same endurance. But I think the DIng Tai one has a little more power for the first 50%.

Where can I order one from ding tai battery? Do you have a link?

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Where can I order one from ding tai battery? Do you have a link?

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www.dtbattery.com

 

[Swannking]

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✅欧洲杯推荐✅wy198.com✅kaiyun体育登录网页入口✅欢迎来玩开云·kaiyun体育官方网站全站登录网页版平台app入口✅kaiyun体育登录网页入口✅最安全平台之一,娱乐玩家首选,提供最新网址,官网入口,登录,app下载,24小时为您服务!更多精彩活动娱乐等着您!赶快体验吧!

www.dtbattery.com

I checked their site awhile ago and couldn’t find the right battery.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

DT were a fair bit cheaper than green bike, especially on the delivery charges.

On paper the only difference between the DT and dengfu battery is one is LG cells, the other Samsung.

Interestingly, the DT one bypass the main on/off switch on the bike. But the dengfu, you need to switch the push button on to get the system to power on.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

I checked their site awhile ago and couldn’t find the right battery.

You need to contact them

 

[taserface]

Hello E22ers-

I am having some trouble finding specifics around the rear drop out. I see it is 148mm through axle, but does anyone know where I can find some additional details? I am trying to determine if it is compatible with the revolute hub1 (revolute.de -> 'retrofitting').

fwiw, this is the checklist:

• On the outside of the frame there must be a straight bolting surface for the adapter with a diameter of at least 20 mm.
• The width between the dropouts must be 142 or 148 mm. There must be Postmount screwing points suitable for a 160 mm or 180 mm brake disc.
• If there is a straight stop on the left dropout, the frame width must be between 12 and 15 mm. The frame width on the right side must be 14 – 17 mm and there must be an M12 thread with a pitch of 1.0, 1.5 or 1.75.
• If there is a 45° cone on the left dropout, the dimension shown must be between 7 and 10 mm.

also, I'm flirting with the idea of a belt drive... but it's still very foreign to me. Is there a viable path here (for up to 200nm torque)? (I saw the veer system, but looks like it's rated at 90nm. I don't know what other options would be viable w/ the E22... or.)

Thanks!

 

[TeoElFeo]

Where can I order one from ding tai battery? Do you have a link?

I would recommend you to ditch the stock battery and mounting brackets and use a bigger softpack instead. Of course if you vwant to use 2 batteries per ride this is not the best option

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Hello E22ers-

I am having some trouble finding specifics around the rear drop out. I see it is 148mm through axle, but does anyone know where I can find some additional details? I am trying to determine if it is compatible with the revolute hub1 (revolute.de -> 'retrofitting').

fwiw, this is the checklist:

• On the outside of the frame there must be a straight bolting surface for the adapter with a diameter of at least 20 mm.
• The width between the dropouts must be 142 or 148 mm. There must be Postmount screwing points suitable for a 160 mm or 180 mm brake disc.
• If there is a straight stop on the left dropout, the frame width must be between 12 and 15 mm. The frame width on the right side must be 14 – 17 mm and there must be an M12 thread with a pitch of 1.0, 1.5 or 1.75.
• If there is a 45° cone on the left dropout, the dimension shown must be between 7 and 10 mm.

also, I'm flirting with the idea of a belt drive... but it's still very foreign to me. Is there a viable path here (for up to 200nm torque)? (I saw the veer system, but looks like it's rated at 90nm. I don't know what other options would be viable w/ the E22... or.)

Thanks!

I looked into gates belt drive when I was setting up my kindernay. But it's not really suitable for retrofitting into rear suspension bikes. The chain growth issue, chainline, plus tensioning make it not really suitable. Unless the OEM has specifically designed the frame with a belt drive in mind.

I think you will be all good with a single speed drive into the IGH, and either using a convention derailer, with the limit screws locked into posistion, or a single speed specific tensioner.

I use single speed chain system on my kindernay vii. With good quality 4140 rear cogs. So far there inst even any signs of wear in the teeth.

The larger tooth/chain width, and use of a high quality material like cromoly, as opposed to super thin 12spd cassettes, with either aluminium or low grade pressed/stamped steel makes for a massive difference in durability.

I recommend going down that path for simplicity.

Also. With the revolute fitments. I can't confirm. But reading that list, the drop-outs are boost 148mm, the post mount is 180mm. The through axle theead is 12 x 1.5mm. I'm not sure about the other points they mention though.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

I would recommend you to ditch the stock battery and mounting brackets and use a bigger softpack instead. Of course if you vwant to use 2 batteries per ride this is not the best option

I Like the ability to swap batteries. Yes they aren't the best batteries. And you could fit more into the physical space without the case or mounting system. But they do secure the battery well, which is good for choppy MTB use with lots of knocks and vibrations. And ofcourse quick swapping the batteries is a charm.

 

[TeoElFeo]

The swapping is a good feature, but I am not concerned about secure fitting as it is easily achievable with dense foam and velcro straps.

In fact my original dengfu battery mounts were no good and the battery kept unlocking and even fell out a couple of times. So I had to attach additional straps to hold it in place. When I tried my softpack battery the fit was super tight it had literally no room to move.

 

[Mabman]

You need to contact them

I checked their site awhile ago and couldn’t find the right battery.

Contact: [email protected] he is very familiar with the stock battery type, and will also build them with 21700 cells in 48v and 52v and a 40A BMS which I prefer.

Pretty much any battery you can dream up they can make. I have gotten both hard shell and soft shell batteries from them.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

The swapping is a good feature, but I am not concerned about secure fitting as it is easily achievable with dense foam and velcro straps.

In fact my original dengfu battery mounts were no good and the battery kept unlocking and even fell out a couple of times. So I had to attach additional straps to hold it in place. When I tried my softpack battery the fit was super tight it had literally no room to move.

Oh wow. So your battery came out of the lock in mounting blocks?

On mine, it hasn't had that issue. It's been really good. The cover latch is starting to loosen up now, and I am concerned that may fall out while riding. But the battery mount has been rock solid so far touch wood.

 

[timal]

Hi guys, would anyone kindly share his eggrider or equivalent off road settings for standard 48v? I would like to create 2 profiles road legal and off road max power. Thank you guys.

 

[Cigales]

Assuming you have a UART motor in the program I have it set to 52v, but my other 15ah 21700 cell battery is 48v. The only thing I change when swapping batteries is via the display options of 48v/52v and even that doesn't make much difference as far as I can tell.

I don't have screen shots of my tune but it is a combination of all the different ones on youtube with some tweaks that I figured out via riding/resetting. I have never had your issues however so I am not sure what to say about your situation? If I have time I will pull out my Windows laptop and make some copies of my settings. I know for sure that they work well for my needs but I have seen that people are happy with the Smooth tune and when I installed it it didn't work well for me at all. Not sure about Neeko's tune but I am sure it works as he is pretty savvy about the M620.

Thanks for response. I'll check out @Neeko DeVinchi settings although the ones he posted seem to be the default ones for eggrider.

Hi guys, would anyone kindly share his eggrider or equivalent off road settings for standard 48v? I would like to create 2 profiles road legal and off road max power. Thank you guys.

Me to please I have 52V, but it would be nice to compare settings and hopefully understand what's not working with my bike.

Have any of you had to update the firmware of the controller/motor? Maybe I'll ask GreenBikeKit see if that have any solutions.