Dengfu E22 Frame Thread

[TeoElFeo]

Thanks for response. I'll check out @Neeko DeVinchi settings although the ones he posted seem to be the default ones for eggrider.


Me to please I have 52V, but it would be nice to compare settings and hopefully understand what's not working with my bike.

Have any of you had to update the firmware of the controller/motor? Maybe I'll ask GreenBikeKit see if that have any solutions.

Have you considered the issue might be hardware related? How does the motor behave under throttle response?

 

[Cigales]

Have you considered the issue might be hardware related? How does the motor behave under throttle response?

That's a good point but I don't have a throttle with the right connector. I'm waiting to receive one cause I thought of testing it when troubleshooting.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Hi @Cigales, apologies for the delay (work commitments).

I understand that my settings I've shared for the M620 isn't optimised for a 52v battery. In that circumstances, I use a different profile.

I'll screen shot my 52v settings tomorrow

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Man seems like you never catch a break when it comes to shifting issues, did you fix the Kindernay with a rebleed? Also every time I see your bike I want to do a e22 build, just looks so good! E55 doesn't even come close to that beauty

Went for a ride today. Shifting quickly failed again. Lost the ability to upshift like before, can only get the first 3-4 upshofts, then it wont upshift any more. Don't know if this is because I didn't bleed it right last time, or there is something wrong with the shift system. But it's damn annoying.

I also think one of my batteries has failed. It started off feeling a little bit weak. Not much, maybe just a 10% reduction in power feel. Just not as punchy as it should be. But by the time I was getting close to half a discharge, it started doing all kinds of weird stuff. The battery percentage fell down rapidly. And then the motor/display was shutting off. I tried removing the battery and turning it on/off etc. And I couldn't get it to work right. It would turn on, give me about 5 seconds of normal power, then die. I was pretty far from the car, and had a big slog uphill without power to get back. Luckily the shifter could still go down gears haha.

When I got back to the car, I swapped batteries. And the bike was all good again. So im thinking the problem is in the battery itself. And not the bike/motor/wiring etc. It was the original battery that came with the bike purchase from dengfu. The DTB battery is still all good. The battery not even that old. Probs only got about a dozen discharge cycles on it.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Im gonna pull the battery apart and inspect it. Check the individual cell voltage. And look for any obvious failures like burnt/melted stuff, or broken spot welds or something like that. Hopefully something I can figure out and repair myself.

 

[Bengy22]

Went for a ride today. Shifting quickly failed again. Lost the ability to upshift like before, can only get the first 3-4 upshofts, then it wont upshift any more. Don't know if this is because I didn't bleed it right last time, or there is something wrong with the shift system. But it's damn annoying.

I also think one of my batteries has failed. It started off feeling a little bit weak. Not much, maybe just a 10% reduction in power feel. Just not as punchy as it should be. But by the time I was getting close to half a discharge, it started doing all kinds of weird stuff. The battery percentage fell down rapidly. And then the motor/display was shutting off. I tried removing the battery and turning it on/off etc. And I couldn't get it to work right. It would turn on, give me about 5 seconds of normal power, then die. I was pretty far from the car, and had a big slog uphill without power to get back. Luckily the shifter could still go down gears haha.

When I got back to the car, I swapped batteries. And the bike was all good again. So im thinking the problem is in the battery itself. And not the bike/motor/wiring etc. It was the original battery that came with the bike purchase from dengfu. The DTB battery is still all good. The battery not even that old. Probs only got about a dozen discharge cycles on it.

Dang shifting issues never seem to leave your bike. You would think for how expensive it is you wouldn't have these issues at all, much less after the limited amount of miles I bet you have put through it. I'm not sure how much that whole setup costs but I would be mad even if it was $100 (I'm sure its a lot more than that). Hopefully you can get it fixed and back running well. I really like the idea of a IGH but seems right now they are still in the very early stage and not viable for most.

I know you had issues with cassettes before and was the reason to move to the IGH which honestly surprised me. I've had my bbshd for 3700 miles now and haven't had a single issue regarding any of my shifting parts breaking due to the power. At around the 2000 mile mark I did swap into a Microshift acolyte groupset with a steel 12-46t cassette which has been great, the cassette still shows little wear even now (and at about 2500 miles I went to 45 amps). I always make sure to shift while the motor isn't suppling power though and I don't have much inline while riding. Only issue has been that very recently I've had issues with the shifter not shifting into a larger gear, almost like when you have a air bubble in your brake and you need to pump it. The shifter doesn't have any tension occasionally until a few pumps. Finally got it on film as requested by MS and I sent them an email late Friday after noon, I feel confident they will make the situation right but even then the shift is only $20 so its a cheap fix any how. Best part is the whole setup was $85. Finally think I need a new chain but I've been very pleased with the whole thing and other than the shift issue just appearing (I swear it started because of how much I recommended the Acolyte) its been a set it and forget deal.

Weird the issue you are having with the battery. This is why I will never buy / build another battery without a bluetooth bms. My best guess would be one of the cell groups might have an issue. Either its not balancing the group or one of the cells or the whole group have an issue and are holding less capacity. Bms is probably cutting off the output as the voltage is dropping on that group too low.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Dang shifting issues never seem to leave your bike. You would think for how expensive it is you wouldn't have these issues at all, much less after the limited amount of miles I bet you have put through it. I'm not sure how much that whole setup costs but I would be mad even if it was $100 (I'm sure its a lot more than that). Hopefully you can get it fixed and back running well. I really like the idea of a IGH but seems right now they are still in the very early stage and not viable for most.

I know you had issues with cassettes before and was the reason to move to the IGH which honestly surprised me. I've had my bbshd for 3700 miles now and haven't had a single issue regarding any of my shifting parts breaking due to the power. At around the 2000 mile mark I did swap into a Microshift acolyte groupset with a steel 12-46t cassette which has been great, the cassette still shows little wear even now (and at about 2500 miles I went to 45 amps). I always make sure to shift while the motor isn't suppling power though and I don't have much inline while riding. Only issue has been that very recently I've had issues with the shifter not shifting into a larger gear, almost like when you have a air bubble in your brake and you need to pump it. The shifter doesn't have any tension occasionally until a few pumps. Finally got it on film as requested by MS and I sent them an email late Friday after noon, I feel confident they will make the situation right but even then the shift is only $20 so its a cheap fix any how. Best part is the whole setup was $85. Finally think I need a new chain but I've been very pleased with the whole thing and other than the shift issue just appearing (I swear it started because of how much I recommended the Acolyte) its been a set it and forget deal.

Weird the issue you are having with the battery. This is why I will never buy / build another battery without a bluetooth bms. My best guess would be one of the cell groups might have an issue. Either its not balancing the group or one of the cells or the whole group have an issue and are holding less capacity. Bms is probably cutting off the output as the voltage is dropping on that group too low.

The Kindernay wasn't cheap. Although it would be cheaper than changing cassettes out every week if I had of stayed with chain/cassette style transmission. It has solved one problem, but introduced others.

IGH in theory is great, and they have been around for literally centuries now. but I agree, I still think its early days of development with modern style, wide range, high gear count systems.

To be fair on the cassettes, I never had any major problems with shifting with cassette based systems. The Sram Gx eagle / e13 system that I first put on this bike always shifted perfectly. I know it didn't like shifting under load / chain tension. But I never ever had shifting problems as such. And likewise the Box prime 9spd shifted flawlessly aswell. Although, it was noticeably more agricultural in operation. And the x01/xx1 eagle that I have in my Trek Remedy is probably the best shifting bike gearset I've ever used.

The problem I had with the cassette systems was rapid excessive wear on the cassette teeth, mainly in the mid range and high range gears. They would wear in where the chain nests. The teeth profile would rapidly wear down, then the chain would ride up over the cassette teeth. That would round the edges of the teeth over as the chain rides up high over the top of the teeth. And that would be game over for the cassette. It would do it without shifting at all. Literally just using full power and it would start doing it.

If you look in my other thread on the battery, i measured all the cell voltages, and they were all bang on identical. So I don't know what's up with the battery. It i don't think it's a cell issue. I'm leaning more towards a bms fault

 

[Bengy22]

The Kindernay wasn't cheap. Although it would be cheaper than changing cassettes out every week if I had of stayed with chain/cassette style transmission. It has solved one problem, but introduced others.

IGH in theory is great, and they have been around for literally centuries now. but I agree, I still think its early days of development with modern style, wide range, high gear count systems.

To be fair on the cassettes, I never had any major problems with shifting with cassette based systems. The Sram Gx eagle / e13 system that I first put on this bike always shifted perfectly. I know it didn't like shifting under load / chain tension. But I never ever had shifting problems as such. And likewise the Box prime 9spd shifted flawlessly aswell. Although, it was noticeably more agricultural in operation. And the x01/xx1 eagle that I have in my Trek Remedy is probably the best shifting bike gearset I've ever used.

The problem I had with the cassette systems was rapid excessive wear on the cassette teeth, mainly in the mid range and high range gears. They would wear in where the chain nests. The teeth profile would rapidly wear down, then the chain would ride up over the cassette teeth. That would round the edges of the teeth over as the chain rides up high over the top of the teeth. And that would be game over for the cassette. It would do it without shifting at all. Literally just using full power and it would start doing it.

If you look in my other thread on the battery, i measured all the cell voltages, and they were all bang on identical. So I don't know what's up with the battery. It i don't think it's a cell issue. I'm leaning more towards a bms fault

Just don't get how you were going though the cassettes that fast lol. I get what you mean though at 15 miles per that would get crazy expensive and a different solution would be needed. Looking at mine I would say I could get at least another 4000 miles before I would need to consider replacing. Which at $35 for a replacement I'm fine with.

Had a look at the battery thread, a bms issue is probably the best outcome imo. Pretty easy and cheap to replace if needed. Hopefully you can get that help with figuring it out. If you do need to replace it bluetooth all the way if you can fit it, way more peace of mind.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Just don't get how you were going though the cassettes that fast lol. I get what you mean though at 15 miles per that would get crazy expensive and a different solution would be needed. Looking at mine I would say I could get at least another 4000 miles before I would need to consider replacing. Which at $35 for a replacement I'm fine with.

Had a look at the battery thread, a bms issue is probably the best outcome imo. Pretty easy and cheap to replace if needed. Hopefully you can get that help with figuring it out. If you do need to replace it bluetooth all the way if you can fit it, way more peace of mind.

I dont know either. I think its just my riding style lol. I ride the bike hard. When i ride, I am pretty much always accelerating, unless im braking. I Never just get up to speed and cruise. I pretty much try and go as fast as I can through every trail. I use alot of throttle. I guess that may be very different to you? Sounds like you use yours more as a commuter.

 

[BojanZ]

Sorry for the late update! Unfortunately the Wolf Tooth Geoshift headset isn't a perfect fit either. They're about a mm too tall on the top and bottom cup. I'll be knocking them back out and trying to shave it down to close the gap. If I were to go back and do it all over I would just run the headset that came with the frame until either my riding progressed or the headset wore out. I have so little experience on MTB and eBikes I hightly doubt I would notice the 2 degree shift.
View attachment 101018
View attachment 101019

All that being said I have finally had the pleasure of getting in some saddle time! I modified to the "Smooth" Settings right out of the box on my Eggrider V2 and this platform is incredibly encouraging and everything feels SOLID. No strange noises or creaks and I seriously cant wait to get in a ride every chance I get! Daylight savings just hit my neck of the woods so it gets dark and cold by 4pm but I've ordered a Magicshine 8000s headlight to turn the dark back into light to get the most out of this winter riding season! More pictures and updates coming soon!

I can also confirm that Works Components angle headset does not fit correctly - its insertion depth is cca 3 mm to big. Sanding those 3 mm off would almost eat all of the mass holding the bearing not to fall out of the cup and this is something I would not want to risk, so I will be installing the original dengfu headset.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

I think its safe to say, that anyone who wishes to amend the geometry of the E22 (or E10, E09, E14, E08 and E23), should use the Slackerizer headset (which installs flush on these frames) or offset bushes.

For the record, I can honestly "hand on heart" say that mine is using the Works Components 2° angle headset without any modifications to the frame or headset. And I have had no issues whatsoever.

But there have been multiple dengfu frame owners who have expressed the issue that the lower cup does not sit flush into the headtube.

 

[Cigales]

That's a good point but I don't have a throttle with the right connector. I'm waiting to receive one cause I thought of testing it when troubleshooting.

Hello,

So I've tested the throttle and I got some weird effects from the motor.

First test:
I lifted the bike from the ground, chose assistance n*9 and went full throttle. At first the motor was outputting ~250W, nothing special. I kept full throttle and over a span of 1min30sec the bike was slowly and progressively running faster until I decided stop the throttle. The did not stop (just before 18:54 mark), it kept going like it had an auto-throttle activated. Does Eggrider or the controller even have that function?

2nd test:
Went outside testing throttle and no pedalling, at first it was slow like it was running at 250W (I can't remember the displayed wattage and forgot to record trip). But after a minute or while going uphill, the motor started to progressively give out more and more power (It felt good ). So I tried to stop using the throttle and start pedalling. It seemed to be working fine just as expected, in some sense I had full power. Using the throttle again, it was running like a real M620.
But after another small hill, the motor stopped whether i was using the throttle or pedalling. This is when I saw the A10 error code on the display. After a quick check online, that error code is said to be "Over heating" (based on eggrider's website). Of course I forgot to actually check the motor's temperature with my hand

I got very similar result afterwards until I gave up and went back home to right this.

I don't know what is going on. I think I will use a different display tomorrow and see how the motor reacts.

Any ideas?

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Hello,

So I've tested the throttle and I got some weird effects from the motor.

First test:
I lifted the bike from the ground, chose assistance n*9 and went full throttle. At first the motor was outputting ~250W, nothing special. I kept full throttle and over a span of 1min30sec the bike was slowly and progressively running faster until I decided stop the throttle. The did not stop (just before 18:54 mark), it kept going like it had an auto-throttle activated. Does Eggrider or the controller even have that function?

View attachment 101899

2nd test:
Went outside testing throttle and no pedalling, at first it was slow like it was running at 250W (I can't remember the displayed wattage and forgot to record trip). But after a minute or while going uphill, the motor started to progressively give out more and more power (It felt good ). So I tried to stop using the throttle and start pedalling. It seemed to be working fine just as expected, in some sense I had full power. Using the throttle again, it was running like a real M620.
But after another small hill, the motor stopped whether i was using the throttle or pedalling. This is when I saw the A10 error code on the display. After a quick check online, that error code is said to be "Over heating" (based on eggrider's website). Of course I forgot to actually check the motor's temperature with my hand

I got very similar result afterwards until I gave up and went back home to right this.

I don't know what is going on. I think I will use a different display tomorrow and see how the motor reacts.

Any ideas?

Screenshot your throttle display settings from the eggrider app as well as you basic settings page please.

Level 9 suggests that the throttle should give you maximum power. But without looking at the settings, I reserve judgement

 

[Swannking]

Screenshot your throttle display settings from the eggrider app as well as you basic settings page please.

Level 9 suggests that the throttle should give you maximum power. But without looking at the settings, I reserve judgement

The throttle can be defective also. Even with the wrong settings, it should not be acting liked the way you described.

 

[Mabman]

There is a discussion going on currently on another forum I follow regarding the EggRider and a poster named ImagineAudio seems to have a good handle on how it relates to the M620

Bafang Ultra "Smooth" tune by Mike at Frey

I'm sorry, I don't understand why this is a confusing question. If you buy an m620 motor, install it, and then ride on throttle, it will spike at 30 amps and then taper off until it approaches the speed at which that particular throttle position corresponds to. Now that I've installed an...

electricbikereview.com

It is on the last pages

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Anyone found a good replacement through axle for the e22? I'm not finding much when I search the dimensions written on the side.

Mine is pretty well shagged. The handle end keeps un-threading instead of the whole shaft when I try and remove it from the bike. I've drilled a tiny hole across it to pin the 2 parts together. But it won't last long.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Anyone found a good replacement through axle for the e22? I'm not finding much when I search the dimensions written on the side.

Mine is pretty well shagged. The handle end keeps un-threading instead of the whole shaft when I try and remove it from the bike. I've drilled a tiny hole across it to pin the 2 parts together. But it won't last long.

Thru Axle Rear 12mm

Buy your Nukeproof Thru Axle Rear 12mm - Quick Release Skewers from Wiggle. SAVE 27% - RRP £17.99 now only £12.99. Free worldwide delivery available.

www.wiggle.co.uk

I use this one. It works perfectly and secures onto the 8mm axle piece, without any washers.
Just select the M12x175x1.5.

Just in case if anyone needs to know the axle requirements for either the E10 or E22,

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Thru Axle Rear 12mm

Buy your Nukeproof Thru Axle Rear 12mm - Quick Release Skewers from Wiggle. SAVE 27% - RRP £17.99 now only £12.99. Free worldwide delivery available.

www.wiggle.co.uk

I use this one. It works perfectly and secures onto the 8mm axle piece, without any washers.
Just select the M12x175x1.5.

Just in case if anyone needs to know the axle requirements for either the E10 or E22,

View attachment 102055

Thanks Neeko. Just ordered one. Trying to get a few little issues sorted on the bike. That's one of them.

I think I may have fixed the kindernay shifting with another re-bleed. This time I got a few strands of copper wire, and looped them around the hose where it connects onto the bleed nipples, and twisted them up to tension. Making the hose seal on to the nipple. I think the issue was I wasn't getting a good seal there before. I used small cable ties to do it before, and I think they let air in where the cable ties latch is in the corner.

The shifting feels alot better now for both up and down. Still not as crisp as a good derailer system. But an improvement I think.

Now to sort the battery out...

I've had covid this week, and am just starting to feel better again.

 

[patdam]

Thru Axle Rear 12mm

Buy your Nukeproof Thru Axle Rear 12mm - Quick Release Skewers from Wiggle. SAVE 27% - RRP £17.99 now only £12.99. Free worldwide delivery available.

www.wiggle.co.uk

I use this one. It works perfectly and secures onto the 8mm axle piece, without any washers.
Just select the M12x175x1.5.

Just in case if anyone needs to know the axle requirements for either the E10 or E22,

View attachment 102055

For E10 i use this one

Axe Traversant Arrière Neatt Thru-Axle Boost 12 x 148 mm Noir à partir de 27,99 € au lieu de 29,99 €

Retrouvez un large choix de produits sur www.alltricks.fr

www.alltricks.fr

just need to reduce a few the length and it fit perfectely, no need to use T40 torx

if somebody find more cheaper => share

 

[chrise22]

You guys are awesome ! Thanks to Neeko and all contributors for those valuable information.
After I built an ebike based on the cheap Walmart mongoose pro + bafang bbshd, it's time to be serious about ebike. I am ordering parts for the e22 while waiting for the frame to come ( Mia talks about January , Hope she mint 2023 ;-)). I did swallow the 36 pages of this thread. I am glad I did so because until page 26, I was ready to order the 2.0 Degree EC44-ZS56 Angle Headset.

I have a few questions for you guys, please help me decide what to do ?
1) 2.0 Degree EC44-ZS56 Angle Headset, it looks like we can't use the too long bottom anymore ( I had the same problem with the Mongoose bike , I had to trim it.). I definitely will wait until the frame comes to order the headset but do we have any update on that front ?
2) M620 UART or CAN ? GreenBikeKit seems to carry both at the moment, While I greatly appreciate customizing the UART bbshd, I have the feeling that the M620 CAN is the future, since Bafang stopped the UART, I assume that the CAN version got the latest improvements and firmwares, it may be just a matter of time until someone crack the CAN. What do you guys think?
3) I will order one battery to Dengfu and use it as a template to build a second one myself.
I love the attempt to build a battery pack using 21700 cells + 3D print housing. BonBond, any chance you can share your model ? Even if it is unfinished , I can definitely contribute to improving it. I don't mind building a second battery [with 18650 cell though), Amy idea where I can buy a battery case with connectors, I remember someone in the forum mentioning the case manufacturer. I spent 20min trying unsuccessfully to find it.

One of the last things I need to buy is the RockShox ZEB Ultimate charger 3 rc2 29" fork.
there very little rebate for this guys during Black Friday. its $$$$$ , Maybe its too new. Let me know if you bump into a cheap one.

That's is for today.
Thanks everyone.

 

[thelostjs]

I received a very standard and imho adequate headset included with the frame.
The uart motor is the only one you will be able to do any meaningful modding with.
I think the fork below can be equipped with the charger type dampers at a later date if needed. $449
This was a consideration when I got my Rockshox domain 38 29er 180mm, however, I've been quite pleased with its feel/performance.

Rock Shox Fork ZEB Charger R - E-MTB Crown 29" Boost - 15x110 180mm Black Aluminum Steerer Taper 44offset DebonAir A1 | Components | RockShox | PlanetCyclery.com

FEATURES New 38mm chassis for increased stiffness and rider confidence Updated highly tunable DebonAir™ air spring offers a buttery smooth feel off the top and maintains a higher ride height for increased confidence in steep terrain New price point C

planetcyclery.com

 

[taserface]

I love the attempt to build a battery pack using 21700 cells + 3D print housing. BonBond, any chance you can share your model ? Even if it is unfinished , I can definitely contribute to improving it.

tagging @BonBond, but +1, I would (selfishly) also be interested in knowing if there are any plans for that model (OS/share/sell/etc). I haven't looked at the frame/battery cavity in person yet and while I expect that building a pack and packed w/ foam, etc, should be fine, I would definitely prefer the batteries to be encased in a more secure/rigid structure.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

You guys are awesome ! Thanks to Neeko and all contributors for those valuable information.
After I built an ebike based on the cheap Walmart mongoose pro + bafang bbshd, it's time to be serious about ebike. I am ordering parts for the e22 while waiting for the frame to come ( Mia talks about January , Hope she mint 2023 ;-)). I did swallow the 36 pages of this thread. I am glad I did so because until page 26, I was ready to order the 2.0 Degree EC44-ZS56 Angle Headset.

I have a few questions for you guys, please help me decide what to do ?
1) 2.0 Degree EC44-ZS56 Angle Headset, it looks like we can't use the too long bottom anymore ( I had the same problem with the Mongoose bike , I had to trim it.). I definitely will wait until the frame comes to order the headset but do we have any update on that front ?
2) M620 UART or CAN ? GreenBikeKit seems to carry both at the moment, While I greatly appreciate customizing the UART bbshd, I have the feeling that the M620 CAN is the future, since Bafang stopped the UART, I assume that the CAN version got the latest improvements and firmwares, it may be just a matter of time until someone crack the CAN. What do you guys think?
3) I will order one battery to Dengfu and use it as a template to build a second one myself.
I love the attempt to build a battery pack using 21700 cells + 3D print housing. BonBond, any chance you can share your model ? Even if it is unfinished , I can definitely contribute to improving it. I don't mind building a second battery [with 18650 cell though), Amy idea where I can buy a battery case with connectors, I remember someone in the forum mentioning the case manufacturer. I spent 20min trying unsuccessfully to find it.

One of the last things I need to buy is the RockShox ZEB Ultimate charger 3 rc2 29" fork.
there very little rebate for this guys during Black Friday. its $$$$$ , Maybe its too new. Let me know if you bump into a cheap one.

That's is for today.
Thanks everyone.

Hi @chrise22, welcome.

I'm thankful that the thread and each of its contributing members could be of use.

In answer to your question:-
1. The Slackerizer headset from Superstar Components is your best bet. After building a couple of E22s for numerous riders from different distributors, this headset seems to be consistent in being installed flush into the headtube.
2. Personally, I'd say UART. But that's my prejudice shining in terms of my opinion over the CANBus protocol. Technically going UART is cheaper in the grand scheme of things in terms of programming. But it is worth mentioning that Bafang are introducing newer displays, specific to the CANBus protocol.
3. I'll leave @BonBond to give you an update, as I've only recently started heavily delving into the battery matter. In addition, I have learnt that the lower mounting bracket which has the 4 pins has changed design mid production. I'll share pics momentarily.

If you can budget a 2023 Zeb Ultimate, please keep us in the loop

Let us know if you have any further questions.

 

[Mayners]

Huge huge shout out to Works components for the 2 degree angle headset.
View attachment 82751
I know they've been very busy so I appreciate the speed in which they shipped the headset out to me .

I've gotta say, the level of craftsmanship which has gone into these headsets is outstanding.
View attachment 82752
Instructions as to the orientation of both the upper and lower headcup installation can be found on their website. Other than that, it installs just like any other headset.
View attachment 82754 View attachment 82755
View attachment 82756

The end result allows this Dengfu E22 frame to have a default headtube angle of 64° when ran with a 160mm travel fork (27.5 or 29) compared to the original 66°.
View attachment 82757
Currently, the bike is rocking a 63.3° headtube angle as ive slapped on a spare Lyrik RC 180mm travel fork. I will be running my spare Fox 36 instead as it'll be a good match with the Fox DPX2 shock.

Nevertheless, the geometry table doesn't really answer the question concerning reach.

I now also want to try the works angel set on my e22. Installation was no Problem with right tool.
But the lower cup has around 4mm of space. Its complete pressed in so I am woundering about the space ? Is it normal or do you was able to press it in without space ?

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

I now also want to try the works angel set on my e22. Installation was no Problem with right tool.
But the lower cup has around 4mm of space. Its complete pressed in so I am woundering about the space ? Is it normal or do you was able to press it in without space ?

View attachment 102252 View attachment 102253

I would not recommend riding the E22 like that @Mayners.

I need to take a better picture but mine is fully seated into the headtube.

 

[Mayners]

Yes, I can cleary see that the lower cup is fully pressed in. But I dont unterstand why mine is not able to fully pressed in... its the same size e22 and the same size of headset I order... I think I have to talk with Works Components...

I checkt it again it was also the same you buy

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Yes, I can cleary see that the lower cup is fully pressed in. But I dont unterstand why mine is not able to fully pressed in... its the same size e22 and the same size of headset I order... I think I have to talk with Works Components...

I checkt it again it was also the same you buy

View attachment 102258

I don't doubt that you've brought the same headset as myself. But too many Dengfu owners have approached me and have expressed concern for not getting the headset fully seated into the headtube.

Whilst I have noticed discrepancies in terms of tweaks with the E22 frames (charging ports, lower battery mounts etc), it remains unclear whether this discrepancy is subject to the vendor/distributor or whether something else is at play.

 

[Mayners]

I don't doubt that you've brought the same headset as myself. But too many Dengfu owners have approached me and have expressed concern for not getting the headset fully seated into the headtube.

Whilst I have noticed discrepancies in terms of tweaks with the E22 frames (charging ports, lower battery mounts etc), it remains unclear whether this discrepancy is subject to the vendor/distributor or whether something else is at play.

I am in contact with Works components and also have the first response. Unfortunately not really helpfull since yet...






I am also afraid the dengfu's toleranz is a problem.. but if its true 4mm toleranz is also a big thing...

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Referring to a previous post, the lower mount design has changed for newer models of the E22 (as well as the E10s and E23s).

The earlier/older design looks like this (which was on my E10v1)

The newer design looks like this. The dimensions between the two (externally) are identical.

The mounting position remain in the same spot between the two.

But one difference would be the cut out piece on the newer style vs the older style.

The connectors (depending on whether you buy the E10 or E22/E23) also remains identical.

The E22 and E23 will use Anderson connectors because of the M620 motor. Whereas the E10 will use xt60 connectors because of the M500/M600/M510.

The biggest difference would be where the battery sits. The newer versions are machined to fully keep the battery in place without it wobbling and should prevent any momentary loss of power due to a loose connection.

Whereas the older style tended to have the battery wobble when inside the downtube.

Hopefully this tidbit of Intel is useful for you guys

 

[patdam]

the biggest difference i see is the hole to evacuate water, I don't see "machined to fully keep the battery in place" ? could you explain ? the battery box lower side are different ?