Mabman
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
I got a couple off Alibaba. Cheap but takes a bit to arrive.
aliexpress! this the one I am using now:Where's a good place I can source an extra derailleur hanger from?
cheapest one i could find was here: 7.88£ 75% OFF|1pc Bicycle MECH dropout For Dengfu E10 4Ever SXC 29 TOSA BIKE AM1.0 mtb Gravel carbon rear Gear derailleur RD hanger Saver hook| | - AliExpressWhere's a good place I can source an extra derailleur hanger from?
I'm currently building up a E22 frame for a friend who is 5foot 10" and the medium with a 170/150 set up 29er and a 180mm oneup dropper and 800mm bars and a dmr 35/35 seems bang on for him.
I'm in the exact same position as you. Just pre ordered a Large E22 frame. Thinking of going with the UART m620. Very interested in the battery discussion. Bike will mainly be used as a commuter with occasional trail use. I don't have the room for multiple bikes so needed one that did everything.Just starting shopping for my build...any recommendations on what to buy or avoid?
Also if you are in Canada/USA feel free to dm me offers on parts you have...
I'll be buying new or nearly new takeoffs to save $$
Im thinking :
Fork: Fox 36 or yari or lyrik, or a Domain, zeb or Fox 38 if I can snag a good price
(I prefer more simple suspension with less adjustments than the pro level stuff, but will take top tier if a great deal comes up. I had a manitou Mattock pro on one bike and it had wayyy too many adjustments, really hated taking the time to dial it in)
Shock: Fox float X or X2 or RS Super deluxe, or Monarch Plus RC3 (not sure why the legacy monarch is still made but it seems decent)
Would consider DVO, Marzzocchi or Suntour comparable options too
Wheelset: 27.5+ 2.8" tires - not too picky on brands for wheels as most anything in a 35mm inner width is pretty tough stuff...
I like plus tires for the added cushion and traction, and since they are so unpopular I'm hoping to score a wheelset dirt cheap.
Drivetrain: cheap steel wide ratio 9-11 spd as so many report chewing through these parts. leaning towards shimano HG compatible hub so i can try a tough, wide ratio 9 spd as Bram recommended...or a cheap chinese 11 spd ( i have a LTwoo AX11 on my hardtail and it is really quite decent). Loved the SLX 11 speed setup i had on another bike - butter smooth shifting, but not spending the $$ if its just going to destroy it in short time.
Brakes: some cheap 4 piston setup sounds good enough - Meeko said the Sensah worked quite well...or good old reliable deore 4 piston..
I have a set of Ztto 4 piston brakes i was planning for another bike that might make their way onto this bike to give them a good test.
As you can tell, i am not at all interested in spending extra $$ to save weight. Brand wise, I Prefer shimano stuff over sram in general, and I find it fun experimenting with cheap chinese stuff from aliexpress/alibaba
All the other ancillary stuff i have lots of spares so no need to go into minor details...
Oh my you picked a heck of a bike for a first time build! my first was a norco carbon enduro - took me all winter to acquire all the parts/tools.. wish id been more prepared and ordered earlier..Bike will mainly be used as a commuter with occasional trail use. I know absolutely nothing about bike building, parts, electronics, etc.... make sure I have all of the parts I need by the time the frame shows up. Looking to do a 29" build. Any/all help is welcome.
That’s what I’m trying to avoid. I’d like to acquire all of the parts and tools that I need while I wait on the frame so that everything is ready to go when it lands!Oh my you picked a heck of a bike for a first time build! my first was a norco carbon enduro - took me all winter to acquire all the parts/tools.. wish id been more prepared and ordered earlier..
For recommendations, need more info...
Are you looking to do a budget build or a 'baller" build?
user weight?
when you go trail are we talking steep, rooty, rocky singletrack or a nice smooth manicured trails?
Your in the states aren't you HIDrive?Where's a good place I can source an extra derailleur hanger from?
I am! Thanks for an alternative option! I'm not in a huge hurry to get a replacement so I'll be ordering two from AliExpress for half the price of one from LUNAYour in the states aren't you HIDrive?
You could try Luna Cycles
Replacement X2 and Z1 Derailleur Hanger
Distributors and builders of life changing electric bikes.lunacycle.com
Granted, they are a bit pricey. For us in the UK, They're around £7 - £10 through Aliexpress or other sites.
Thats a healthy enough budget i think to build it up any way you want.That’s what I’m trying to avoid. I’d like to acquire all of the parts and tools that I need while I wait on the frame so that everything is ready to go when it lands!
I would say my budget all in is roughly $5,000. I don’t mind sourcing used parts that are in good condition.
I am 195lbs but will try to find a way to lug 20 lbs of additional gear with me for my commutes.
I’m typically on smooth/slightly footy trails. My priorities for this build are as follows:
Reliable and fast gearing for pavement commuting
Comfortable for the 8 mile off-road part of my commute
I have a 30 mile round trip commute but can charge at work. I also have a freight elevator in the office so I’m not too concerned about weight, as I don’t have to carry the bike through stairs.
I am as green as they come. I used to use a shop for derailer adjustments. I’m probably spelling that wrong. I have no idea on bushings needed, cross part compatibility, etc. But I’m eager to learn. Aside from the frame, fork, tires, wheels, brakes, handlebars, cassette, chain, handles, I don’t know all of the little rings and parts and hardware that is required for a build. As well as specialty tools. I’ve built racecars and motors in the past so have a decent tool set, but not really specialty bike tools. Was probably going to pick up a set off of amazon.
Hi Mate, where did you get the chain guide ? How did you managed to fix it? Thanks a lotA few little mods.
E13 chain guide and some old mudguards. The chainguide works brilliantly. Haven't dropped a chain since I fitted it. The mudguards not so such. I'm sure they do something, but you still end up coated it mud.
If you look closely through the chainring, you can see some damage caused by dropped chains.
View attachment 94814
View attachment 94815
View attachment 94816
Searching the net, i found out that 148 mm wide spacing is indeed BOOST, so 148 mm can not be non-boost hub, correct me if I am wrong?Greetings to all in this thread.
I am planning to build a MTB with Dengfu E22 frame, have a lot of parts already shipped, but I am not sure about the rear wheel hub - IS it 148 X 12 mm BOOST or NON-BOOST?
Many thanks!
Yes, they are BOOST - FWIW, these are the wheels I bought:Searching the net, i found out that 148 mm wide spacing is indeed BOOST, so 148 mm can not be non-boost hub, correct me if I am wrong?
Thank you, and sorry for littering the thread with non-sense.
@Neeko DeVinchi 's vid here: I think its fair to assume the different motors will make quite a difference between the platforms.Can anyone tell me the ride quality differences between the E22 and the E10 please? I'm about to pull the trigger and would love to know. Thanks all.
That answers my question then. Thanks for that Neeko.Apologies for the delay @Canmtbdude.
The E22 and E10 are similar in areas and different in areas.
Its difficult to put in words. But one example which I've noticed, would be when both are ran with 29er wheelsets. View attachment 98988
For me, the E22 feels more like a dedicated 29er. Recognising that the bb height is 343mm with a fox 36 170mm travel fork 44mm offset and WTB STI30s and a DHR2 29x2.4 rear and Assergai 29x2.5 up front
View attachment 98989
The E10v1's bb height is 350mm with a Rockshox Zeb 170nn travel fork 44mm offset with wtb STI30s and Schwalbe Hans Dampf 29x2.35 front and rear.
This coincides with what I said in my E10 video "I don't want to be top heavy, I want to be in the bike as much as possible".
Thus, I am forced to use offset bushes for the E10 to bring down my bb height as much as possible to when the E10 was ran with 27.5 wheels front and rear.
For a tall rider like myself, bb height is noticeable. Coupled with the fact that my droppers are long (slammed, but long).
View attachment 98990
Compared to the E22, I don't feel the need to use offset bushes. Instead, the 2 degree angle headset has allowed me to retain a decent seat tube angle. And slacken the front, giving more confidence for steering input at high speed.
At this point, I'm willing to give the E22 the edge in terms of which frame is more suitable as a full 29er. But I'll mess around with the offset bushes and see how I get along with the E10v1.
The E10v2s bb height drop remains the same as the v1
Thank you. These types of product specs and recommendations are exactly what I need to nudge me along in the right direction. The tire spec is in line with what I'd want as well! I was looking at a 29r on the Large frame.Thats a healthy enough budget i think to build it up any way you want.
If it were me, and assuming your trails are fairly tame, i'd try to build it up as a fast trail bike - maybe 150/150 travel, fast rolling 29" xc wheels/tires. you can save a lot on the fork if you dont need anything beefy. I had a suntour XCR air 140mm on my norco fluid that was realy quite good for the most part. Rear shock a basic inline air shock should be fine. A build like that might get you a few more miles out of a battery charge.
As for figuring out the build - These videos from LoveMTB channel really helped me get familiar for my first build: Best of luck!
Thank you very much for this thorough response.Congratulations on your new bikes! Welcome to the community! Not sure I am happy with this video, but the request for information has pushed me to upload for what benefit it may be worth. leave me some questions!
you can do it for under 4K! spend the rest on an extra battery and tires.
as for all tools I (remember) needed.
metric allen keys
cassette socket
diy headset installer made from 2x4 wood and all-thread
brake bleed kit
small hammer (crank arms may need a few taps)
hacksaw (steerer tube)
sidecutters (cables/hose)
the BIKEHAND tool I posted about:
View attachment 98718
Neeko's first assembly pics are more than enough once you get the parts in hand!
just make sure you get
uart motor + program cable
shock bushings 1/2"x8x16 and 1/2"x8x32
headset spacers
shifter cable housing
rimtape
spare chains you may even have to join them to make it long enough
Watch my video regarding the spider from greenbikekit for a surefire way to get your chainlength.
Didn't Bram warn us that lowering the primary cog likely will result in destroyed cassettes?Just received my 104BCD spider from GreenBikeKit,, what size chainrings are you guys using (I have an 11-42 cassette on my bike)?
He did yep, I'm not ignoring that, but I have a 1:1 ratio on my BBSHD and it's not chewing my cassette nearly as much as it got chewed prior to fitting a shift sensor - I think a few ppl here don't like shift sensors and/or don't have them fitted. I'm not planning on the smallest chainring I can fit, but defo want to ditch the ugly steel thing that came as stock.Didn't Bram warn us that lowering the primary cog likely will result in destroyed cassettes?
How horrible is the 44t front ring everyone? i had planned on leaving mine stock and putting an 11-52 cassette on the back...
I see, can bunch me in with the no sensor group...i've already trained myself to slow my cadence for shifts with my e8000. I'd likley try a 38 or 40T to start with...He did yep, I'm not ignoring that, but I have a 1:1 ratio on my BBSHD and it's not chewing my cassette nearly as much as it got chewed prior to fitting a shift sensor - I think a few ppl here don't like shift sensors and/or don't have them fitted. I'm not planning on the smallest chainring I can fit, but defo want to ditch the ugly steel thing that came as stock.
I'm running on 38t I bought from ebay and pairing it with microshift 10speedI see, can bunch me in with the no sensor group...i've already trained myself to slow my cadence for shifts with my e8000. I'd likley try a 38 or 40T to start with...
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