you have not washers between bearings and carbon ?I discovered that there is no grease in the screws areas, should grease be applied to these areas or is this intended because the frame is carbon?
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you have not washers between bearings and carbon ?I discovered that there is no grease in the screws areas, should grease be applied to these areas or is this intended because the frame is carbon?
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for all parts who are in contact with carbon (and normally doesn't move) you can use carbon assembly pasteI discovered that there is no grease in the screws areas, should grease be applied to these areas or is this intended because the frame is carbon?
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I have inner washers on each side.you have not washers between bearings and carbon ?
I will only apply grease to the internal parts that are likely to be subjected to friction.Why would you put grease on the outside of the bearing seal or am I reading your question incorrectly. All the action takes place within the bearing where only a light smear of grease is needed as its a low speed movement. Technically if you fill the void between the bearings then all you are doing is attracting dirt which eventually will get under the seal and damage the internals.
But I think a little grease is useful in preventing the entry of water and moisture.I dont think you need to put grease anywhere where you have sealed bearings. You could put a bit of anti-seize on the fasteners, and if you ever have the bearings pulled out, then you could put a bit of that on the surfaces when replacing.
Yes!Can anyone confirm that these two pieces should be pressed into the frame?
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Much appreciated.Yes!
Can anyone confirm that these two pieces should be pressed into the frame?
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I hammered them with a rubber mallet.Freeze them first for a good hour.
Gentle heat on the frame with a hair dryer.
The shell should just fall in (make sure you are nice a square)
They go on the spacers that go between the joints for the seat stay and chain stay pivots.Assembling my E10 frame:
Does someone know where these four ~20mm o-rings should go?
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My E10 frame came from Dengfu completely disassembled (it seems earlier frames came pre-assembled with a plastic rear shock spacer).
In addition to the five main frame pieces & shock mount, there's a little bag with three dozen bolts and washers etc. Many of them are subtly (but importantly!) different. Four washers already have o-rings fitted in a 1mm groove. No other washers have a similar groove (though many have a one-sided lip, which despite trying, will not reliably hold an o-ring).
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Melody very kindly shared an assembly video with me taken in the Dengfu factory (showing assembly of a branded bike for the US market ) which has made it pretty easy to do a dry-run build, making sure I have all the right parts.
But... I have four rubber o-rings roughly 20mm in diameter that I do not see used in the assembly video???
My thoughts are:
1. These are spare o-rings in case the pre-fitted ones on the four washers are damaged. (unlikely I think)
2. These o-rings should go between the shock bushings and frame articulation points (see image below & red arrows) to protect the bushings from moisture.
3. They're intended for another articulation point????
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Thanks for your help!
I think it fits and I ordered it still in shipping, in case you're not in a hurry I'll let you know after testing.Anyone fitted one of these, is it the same tool as a BOSCH mid-drive?
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The Bosch one seems to look right but I'd rather confirm that someone has used it before ordering. I'm using the old silver lockring from the M600 at the moment which works with the tool I already have, but I'd rather use the one supplied with the M510 below.
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Nice Build!Finally finished and really pleased with set up. First time using a coil and I am converted! 216x63 Cane Creek with Progressive Valt coil. 170mm front travel. Being XL it is big but suits me (192cm and 98kg). View attachment 89282 View attachment 89280 View attachment 89281
With a bit of care I also managed to fit the standard Bafang chain guard with no modification or rubbing. Just needs to go as far forward as possible.
I went for the M500 to stay legal. It is definitely less powerful that a Bosch, but to be honest I want (and need) to feel like I have put some effort into a ride so the M500 is very natural and quiet and works for me.Nice Build!
Is the motor M600 and what is the chainring size?
Yet another Bafang innovation then, I think there are 2 types of Bosch lockring but not sure how different they are. I've not seen a specific tool for Bafang other than the one I've got for then older silver lockring.@captainhightop Unfortunately the tool is not compatible with the lock ring.
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i bought it on aliexpress. it needs a little sanding on the inside. or on a milling machine.@captainhightop Unfortunately the tool is not compatible with the lock ring.
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I put the M600 controller to M500, its still legal, i have 1.1 kW in peak and Bosch may "see rear tyre" .I went for the M500 to stay legal. It is definitely less powerful that a Bosch, but to be honest I want (and need) to feel like I have put some effort into a ride so the M500 is very natural and quiet and works for me.
The chainring is the standard one that comes with the motor - 34T I believe......
Can you climb steep hills for a long time without the engine overheating and reducing the power?I put the M600 controller to M500, its still legal, i have 1.1 kW in peak and Bosch may "see rear tyre" .
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