ShaneBean
Member
Got my call today. West Virginia. Ordered sept 4th, XL. Friend ordered same bike in medium. He got a call a bit before me, I ordered and hour after him.
commencal 2021
- Thread starter Mr Scooter
- Start date
ye founded , what I meant is that it is not a well sealed engine cover and the contacts seem exposed to me. however great bike, I'm mounting the whole hope braking system
It is similar tot he arnagment on the e8000 motor - what a lot of us did is put motor foam in there to prevent debris collecting, and also put some electrical/gorilla tape or similar over the top lip of where the cover meets the motor.
noblige
Member
Not Commencal, but a good example of EP8 rattle (scroll to 8 minute mark):
With my bike it's about the same, I can make a quick video.
With my bike it's about the same, I can make a quick video.
Please make the test with the highest gear and the lowest gear. Chain vibration above the chainstay causes the rattle. It could rattle far less if the chain is on the smallest cog, since it almost lays on the chainstay.
rb.
Active member
The rattle is from inside the motor, not chain slap.
noblige
Member
I understand it's not like there's a loose ball bearing just bouncing around inside motor assembly
But in real world, you feet will be on the pedals, constantly loading and unloading clutch mechanism, right?
shenchman
New Member
size L signature, Halloween is over so I peeled off the orange fox float x2 & fox 38 decals which imo looks way better.
I have a 34" inseam & ~80mm of seatpost base showing, I think I'll want a longer dropper than the 175mm oem as I'm still teetering a bit on full down mode, haven't trail tested yet. fox has a 200mm transfer dropper now which has a 320mm max insertion vs frame size L max of 280mm, so you'd have 40mm of base showing which would work for me. oneup or PNW might be even better ie could get them even lower without hitting max insertion limit, I haven't researched yet.
I recommend a few crash/brush tragedy mods, especially ziptie the rear brake disc magnet sensor wire to left chainstay to reduce the chance it gets snagged on a branch or such.
similar for the exposed wire between the display & downtube entry point, trying to minimize the chance it gets snagged & torn.
I usually slit/wrap/ziptie a piece of vinyl tubing around the short section of rear derailleur cable housing too which often gets abused.
Sacha
I have a 34" inseam & ~80mm of seatpost base showing, I think I'll want a longer dropper than the 175mm oem as I'm still teetering a bit on full down mode, haven't trail tested yet. fox has a 200mm transfer dropper now which has a 320mm max insertion vs frame size L max of 280mm, so you'd have 40mm of base showing which would work for me. oneup or PNW might be even better ie could get them even lower without hitting max insertion limit, I haven't researched yet.
I recommend a few crash/brush tragedy mods, especially ziptie the rear brake disc magnet sensor wire to left chainstay to reduce the chance it gets snagged on a branch or such.
similar for the exposed wire between the display & downtube entry point, trying to minimize the chance it gets snagged & torn.
I usually slit/wrap/ziptie a piece of vinyl tubing around the short section of rear derailleur cable housing too which often gets abused.
Sacha
noblige
Member
I put OneUp 210mm - fits perfect, I'm probably same inseam as you.
I just noticed that Fox 38 does not extend fully, even when unweighted - I can pull on lowers and extend it by about extra 10mm. Do you notice the same?, or it's just my fork...
rb.
Active member
My fox 38 does not do that.
Your assumption is correct for normal bikes, but the freewheel of the motor let the crankarms spin backwards without any chain(-ring) rotation. So your feet apply force to the chainring in only one direction, movement in the other direction is (mainly) caused by chain vibration.I understand it's not like there's a loose ball bearing just bouncing around inside motor assembly
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noblige
Member
Obvious question but have you tried pulling on the fork until it fully extends and pushing the buttons on the lowers?
If it doesn't work, I'd guess, that your air chambers are not equalizing properly...
You could try apply max. air pressure and cycle trough, maybe it will open the port.
noblige
Member
I see... I just took the chain off the ring, and it does not rattle when you bounce the bike. There's still clunk when you really smack it.
How do you guys lube the chain then, as spinning cranks backward does not move the chain?
You're welcome ?
Yeah lubing the chain is tricky at first. There are some devices you can stick between crankarm and chain, so if you spin the crankarms backwards, they also turn the chainring.
Far easier: Shift in your lowest gear (largest cog) and apply the lube while you slowly move the bike backwards (or move it back and forth, so you don't have to walk).
Yeah lubing the chain is tricky at first. There are some devices you can stick between crankarm and chain, so if you spin the crankarms backwards, they also turn the chainring.
Far easier: Shift in your lowest gear (largest cog) and apply the lube while you slowly move the bike backwards (or move it back and forth, so you don't have to walk).
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Yeah, it's vacuum in the lowers ?Holy sh*t! The buttons did it, I completely forgot that they added them (I have old 36 on other bike) - not sure how it is related (vacuum sucking it down?). Too bad I already ordered like $100 worth of Fox tools for servicing air spring
Thanks @robat !
shenchman
New Member
$0 chain jammer: 5mm allen key cut to catch the chainring when it's placed in the crankarm fastening bolt head. just don't forget to take it out!
noblige
Member
Love it. Making one now. Does it clear chain guide?
shenchman
New Member
if you cut it short enough.
it gets a bit tight to pull out since it's wedged against the chainring, I usually have to use pliers. wrapping it in red tape isn't a bad idea to encourage removal before riding.
jbrown15
Well-known member
You can also change out the air shaft so that the extra 10mm is actually useable suspension.....lol
rb.
Active member
On my other bike I have a scorpion bike stand that I can easily toss the bike on to lube the chain. But this one the cranks have that end cap on them so it won’t work.I see... I just took the chain off the ring, and it does not rattle when you bounce the bike. There's still clunk when you really smack it.
How do you guys lube the chain then, as spinning cranks backward does not move the chain?
Will try the allen key trick if I have a spare one to cut.
Here is a good option, but won’t work on our stock chainrings.
Darkyhs
Well-known member
My bike is stuck in France with the following info on FedEx
Does anyone have an idea what this is? I will be calling Commencal as well a bit later
| |
Does anyone have an idea what this is? I will be calling Commencal as well a bit later
It's a FedEx business partner. I'd guess your bike is in queue to get transported overseas. Don't harass the poor people at commencal, they can't do anything right now anyway.My bike is stuck in France with the following info on FedEx
Arrivé à l'agence de IBA le 17/11/2020 à 20:35
Does anyone have an idea what this is? I will be calling Commencal as well a bit later
Just be patient ?
Mcharza
E*POWAH BOSS
Yes, it's France...c'est la vieMy bike is stuck in France with the following info on FedEx
Arrivé à l'agence de IBA le 17/11/2020 à 20:35
Does anyone have an idea what this is? I will be calling Commencal as well a bit later
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