ShaneBean
Member
Got my call today. West Virginia. Ordered sept 4th, XL. Friend ordered same bike in medium. He got a call a bit before me, I ordered and hour after him.
Motor cover wasn't installed on mine, it was separately in the box. Check it.
It is similar tot he arnagment on the e8000 motor - what a lot of us did is put motor foam in there to prevent debris collecting, and also put some electrical/gorilla tape or similar over the top lip of where the cover meets the motor.ye founded , what I meant is that it is not a well sealed engine cover and the contacts seem exposed to me. however great bike, I'm mounting the whole hope braking system
Please make the test with the highest gear and the lowest gear. Chain vibration above the chainstay causes the rattle. It could rattle far less if the chain is on the smallest cog, since it almost lays on the chainstay.Not Commencal, but a good example of EP8 rattle (scroll to 8 minute mark):
With my bike it's about the same, I can make a quick video.
The rattle is from inside the motor, not chain slap.Please make the test with the highest gear and the lowest gear. Chain vibration above the chainstay causes the rattle. It could rattle far less if the chain is on the smallest cog, since it almost lays on the chainstay.
It's not chain slap. the chain vibrates and transfers the vibration to the chain ring. That's what causes the rattle. If you hold the chainring while you drop the back wheel, there should be no rattling.The rattle is from inside the motor, not chain slap.
I understand it's not like there's a loose ball bearing just bouncing around inside motor assembly But in real world, you feet will be on the pedals, constantly loading and unloading clutch mechanism, right?It's not chain slap. the chain vibrates and transfers the vibration to the chain ring. That's what causes the rattle. If you hold the chainring while you drop the back wheel, there should be no rattling.
I put OneUp 210mm - fits perfect, I'm probably same inseam as you.size L signature, Halloween is over so I peeled off the orange fox float x2 & fox 38 decals which imo looks way better.
I have a 34" inseam & ~80mm of seatpost base showing, I think I'll want a longer dropper than the 175mm oem as I'm still teetering a bit on full down mode, haven't trail tested yet. fox has a 200mm transfer dropper now which has a 320mm max insertion vs frame size L max of 280mm, so you'd have 40mm of base showing which would work for me. oneup or PNW might be even better ie could get them even lower without hitting max insertion limit, I haven't researched yet.
I recommend a few crash/brush tragedy mods, especially ziptie the rear brake disc magnet sensor wire to left chainstay to reduce the chance it gets snagged on a branch or such.
similar for the exposed wire between the display & downtube entry point, trying to minimize the chance it gets snagged & torn.
I usually slit/wrap/ziptie a piece of vinyl tubing around the short section of rear derailleur cable housing too which often gets abused.
Sacha
View attachment 44819
View attachment 44820
View attachment 44821
View attachment 44822
View attachment 44823
View attachment 44824
View attachment 44825
My fox 38 does not do that.I put OneUp 210mm - fits perfect, I'm probably same inseam as you.
I just noticed that Fox 38 does not extend fully, even when unweighted - I can pull on lowers and extend it by about extra 10mm. Do you notice the same?, or it's just my fork...
Your assumption is correct for normal bikes, but the freewheel of the motor let the crankarms spin backwards without any chain(-ring) rotation. So your feet apply force to the chainring in only one direction, movement in the other direction is (mainly) caused by chain vibration.I understand it's not like there's a loose ball bearing just bouncing around inside motor assembly But in real world, you feet will be on the pedals, constantly loading and unloading clutch mechanism, right?
I figured... Sounds like air spring rebuild is next for me :| Downside of mail order bikes - can't take it back to the shop: "Here, fix it!"My fox 38 does not do that.
Obvious question but have you tried pulling on the fork until it fully extends and pushing the buttons on the lowers?I put OneUp 210mm - fits perfect, I'm probably same inseam as you.
I just noticed that Fox 38 does not extend fully, even when unweighted - I can pull on lowers and extend it by about extra 10mm. Do you notice the same?, or it's just my fork...
Holy sh*t! The buttons did it, I completely forgot that they added them (I have old 36 on other bike) - not sure how it is related (vacuum sucking it down?). Too bad I already ordered like $100 worth of Fox tools for servicing air springObvious question but have you tried pulling on the fork until it fully extends and pushing the buttons on the lowers?
If it doesn't work, I'd guess, that your air chambers are not equalizing properly...
You could try apply max. air pressure and cycle trough, maybe it will open the port.
I see... I just took the chain off the ring, and it does not rattle when you bounce the bike. There's still clunk when you really smack it.Your assumption is correct for normal bikes, but the freewheel of the motor let the crankarms spin backwards without any chain(-ring) rotation. So your feet apply force to the chainring in only one direction, movement in the other direction is (mainly) caused by chain vibration.
Yeah, it's vacuum in the lowers ?Holy sh*t! The buttons did it, I completely forgot that they added them (I have old 36 on other bike) - not sure how it is related (vacuum sucking it down?). Too bad I already ordered like $100 worth of Fox tools for servicing air spring
Thanks @robat !
$0 chain jammer: 5mm allen key cut to catch the chainring when it's placed in the crankarm fastening bolt head. just don't forget to take it out!Your welcome ?
Yeah lubing the chain is tricky at first. There are some devices you can stick between crankarm and chain, so if you spin the crankarms backwards, they also turn the chainring.
Far easier: Shift in your lowest gear (largest cog) and apply the lube while you slowly move the bike backwards (or move it back and forth, so you don't have to walk).
Love it. Making one now. Does it clear chain guide?$0 chain jammer: 5mm allen key cut to catch the chainring when it's placed in the crankarm fastening bolt head. just don't forget to take it out!
View attachment 44834
View attachment 44835
if you cut it short enough.Love it. Making one now. Does it clear chain guide?
I put OneUp 210mm - fits perfect, I'm probably same inseam as you.
I just noticed that Fox 38 does not extend fully, even when unweighted - I can pull on lowers and extend it by about extra 10mm. Do you notice the same?, or it's just my fork...
On my other bike I have a scorpion bike stand that I can easily toss the bike on to lube the chain. But this one the cranks have that end cap on them so it won’t work.I see... I just took the chain off the ring, and it does not rattle when you bounce the bike. There's still clunk when you really smack it.
How do you guys lube the chain then, as spinning cranks backward does not move the chain?
| |
It's a FedEx business partner. I'd guess your bike is in queue to get transported overseas. Don't harass the poor people at commencal, they can't do anything right now anyway.My bike is stuck in France with the following info on FedEx
Arrivé à l'agence de IBA le 17/11/2020 à 20:35
Does anyone have an idea what this is? I will be calling Commencal as well a bit later
Yes, it's France...c'est la vieMy bike is stuck in France with the following info on FedEx
Arrivé à l'agence de IBA le 17/11/2020 à 20:35
Does anyone have an idea what this is? I will be calling Commencal as well a bit later
The World's largest electric mountain bike community.