Shop talk - 2021 Commencal

[NCeMTB]

It will click - I used an 11mm open end spanner to push it down.

 

[NCeMTB]

The three bolts with the red thread lock are for the ISCG holes - to cover them up (protect threads) if you don't put on a bash guard. I'm actually not aware of a bash guard that would make sense there...

 

[NCeMTB]

BTW - when you get your bike - make sure to go through all the bolts / bits... Mine was packed very well, no damage from shipping. Everything went together and fit as it should. No issues with battery removal and filament is pretty awesome.

As mentioned above - my crank caps and bolts were quite under-torqued (now at 5nm and 16nm, respectively). Also cassette, torque sensor, rear axle (also dry), seat clamp, engine mount, and one pivot. Cranks were most egregious - maybe 4-6nm...

Mine did not include the adapter for charging the battery off the bike - I thought I read that someone had gotten that from Commencal. Anyone?

My bars, stem, grips, tubeless with Rimpact, AMS frame protection kit. Prelim suspension setup and lever bleed. It's a Sig and the brushed aluminum is awesome (biased viewpoint).

She's ready to rip - maiden voyage today. Only hanging chad is the beautiful 175 Kashima fox dropper that is just too long... OneUp on order - hate to lose that Kashima bling.

 

[RefreshGarageRich]

They did not include the adapter for charging the battery off the bike - I thought I read that someone had gotten that from Commencal. Anyone?

No, I heard from friends it's a tough part to get as well.
Shimano SM-BTE80 Charging Adaptor Unit - ISMBTE80, correct?

 

[NCeMTB]

I think that’s it... oh well, pandemic.

 

[Darkyhs]

BTW - when you get your bike - make sure to go through all the bolts / bits... Mine was packed very well, no damage from shipping. Everything went together and fit as it should. No issues with battery removal and filament is pretty awesome.

As mentioned above - my crank caps and bolts were quite under-torqued (now at 5nm and 16nm, respectively). Also cassette, torque sensor, rear axle (also dry), seat clamp, engine mount, and one pivot. Cranks were most egregious - maybe 4-6nm...

Mine did not include the adapter for charging the battery off the bike - I thought I read that someone had gotten that from Commencal. Anyone?

My bars, stem, grips, tubeless with Rimpact, AMS frame protection kit. Prelim suspension setup and lever bleed. It's a Sig and the brushed aluminum is awesome (biased viewpoint).

She's ready to rip - maiden voyage today. Only hanging chad is the beautiful 175 Kashima fox dropper that is just too long... OneUp on order - hate to lose that Kashima bling.

I got the battery thing from Commencal. They shipped it immediately to me. I didn't have it included in the box, and when I checked the tech website it should have been there. I would give them a call. To be fair, I do not see myself really using it as I like convenience. Still they fixed it straight away, and threw in some stickers as well

 

[RefreshGarageRich]

Has anyone else had a high amount of trouble doing a tubeless swap on a DT Swiss H522 + Schwalbe Mary+Betty combo? Tires were ridiculously tight, broke 3 tire levers, eventually got everything seated and sealed up but seriously took 1-2 hrs of working the last bit of tire over the rim, lots of swearing and eventually used a heat gun very carefully and it managed to get it over the lip. Yes I tried to keep the bead set in the valley of the rim, and ended on the valve. I've never mounted Schwalbes but I don't remember Maxxis, even brand new being that tough.


Also, installed a 1up 100cc pump and toolkit. Been riding on and off for almost 20 yrs, trying to go bagless for the 1st time ?, had to cut a few m6 bolts down to fit the water bottle bracket, stock bolts were too shallow and the one 1up supplied hit the battery in the downtube.

 

[Janc]

Has anyone else had a high amount of trouble doing a tubeless swap on a DT Swiss H522 + Schwalbe Mary+Betty combo? Tires were ridiculously tight, broke 3 tire levers, eventually got everything seated and sealed up but seriously took 1-2 hrs of working the last bit of tire over the rim, lots of swearing and eventually used a heat gun very carefully and it managed to get it over the lip. Yes I tried to keep the bead set in the valley of the rim, and ended on the valve. I've never mounted Schwalbes but I don't remember Maxxis, even brand new being that tough.


Also, installed a 1up 100cc pump and toolkit. Been riding on and off for almost 20 yrs, trying to go bagless for the 1st time ?, had to cut a few m6 bolts down to fit the water bottle bracket, stock bolts were too shallow and the one 1up supplied hit the battery in the downtube. View attachment 55234

My brand new Mary was a pig to get on the rim. Getting the bead into the middle depression is key to getting the last bit over the rim. Other tip I'd give is fit it tubed first, do a few miles then take the tube out to go tubeless - I think it makes the tyre more workable. I'll confirm that when my new wheels arrive as I bent my DT1700H rim somehow!

 

[rb.]

Yes, the stock schwalbe tires were super tight to remove and out back on. But I didn’t have near as much trouble as you were describing.

 

[RefreshGarageRich]

Is this routing to the display, and through the stem correct? Or is there a channel or routing to run that wire actually inside the stem clamps? Doesn't look as clean as I'd like TBH, with the wire just hanging like that. The manuals that came with my Meta 29er are from an older model, just trying to figure it out.

 

[rb.]

Is this routing to the display, and through the stem correct? Or is there a channel or routing to run that wire actually inside the stem clamps? Doesn't look as clean as I'd like TBH, with the wire just hanging like that. The manuals that came with my Meta 29er are from an older model, just trying to figure it out.

View attachment 55381

View attachment 55382

View attachment 55383

I will look at mine when I get home

 

[rb.]

Is this routing to the display, and through the stem correct? Or is there a channel or routing to run that wire actually inside the stem clamps? Doesn't look as clean as I'd like TBH, with the wire just hanging like that. The manuals that came with my Meta 29er are from an older model, just trying to figure it out.

View attachment 55381

View attachment 55382

View attachment 55383

The cable that runs to my motor goes into the frame with the shifter cable housing. The cable the goes to the thumb switch goes straight into the hole in the bars. Neither are running under the stem.

 

[RefreshGarageRich]

The cable that runs to my motor goes into the frame with the shifter cable housing. The cable the goes to the thumb switch goes straight into the hole in the bars. Neither are running under the stem.

Thanks, There's 2 wires that come out of the display, one of mine goes with the shifter cable and into the frame on the downtube. The other wire was coming out from under the stem when it was shipped. So there's no wire coming out under of the stem on your bike? Where does that 2nd wire from the display go? Just to clarify you also have a '21 Meta 29?

 

[rb.]

Thanks, There's 2 wires that come out of the display, one of mine goes with the shifter cable and into the frame on the downtube. The other wire was coming out from under the stem when it was shipped. So there's no wire coming out under of the stem on your bike? Where does that 2nd wire from the display go? Just to clarify you also have a '21 Meta 29?

I have a hole in my bars the cable runs directly into.

 

[RefreshGarageRich]

I have a hole in my bars the cable runs directly into.

View attachment 55398

Ah haa! I just checked I do not have a visible hole like that. According to website spec sheet on the 29 Essential, I should I have the "RIDE ALPHA R20 E-Bike 31,8 mm, 780 mm width, 20 mm rise, Alloy 6061, electric wire internal routing".

From the website, all the handlebars on every Meta 29, 27 are the same R20, you're saying yours has a hole, I definitely have to re inspect mine. The motor shifter, on the left side is all internally routed, then under the grip in a channel in the bars, I'll take it fully off and inspect the display/stem area more, worst case I can drill a few small holes to run the wires cleanly. Thanks again.

Edit, I only have the 1 larger central hole into the stem, definitely no smaller hole like you pictured, I'll try to re route wire under the display bracket bolt.

 

[RefreshGarageRich]

Managed to route wire under bracket and the lower stem bolt had a small gap when torqued. Before and after

 

[rb.]

That’s strange the hole placement is different on our bars.

 

[NCeMTB]

Hmmm - mine too. One hole, oblong, centered in back.

 

[NCeMTB]

I got the battery thing from Commencal. They shipped it immediately to me. I didn't have it included in the box, and when I checked the tech website it should have been there. I would give them a call. To be fair, I do not see myself really using it as I like convenience. Still they fixed it straight away, and threw in some stickers as well

Hi - I contacted Comm USA and they stated the adapter is not included with the bike and referred me to eBay... They are asking for a reference to the material that says it should be included. You mentioned the "tech website" - would you pass on that link so I can see if they will not push back. For what I (we) have paid for the bike (plus replacement / decent shimano cranks) - it should be included. Thanks much.

 

[rb.]

I swapped out the stock bars for some Deity Brendog’s and this is how I routed the cable because I wasn’t willing to drill two holes in my bars. Made a few small loops and secured behind the dropper lever, and then secured the cable to the front side of the bar with a half-width piece of electrical tape. Looks clean enough from the rider’s perspective, so will just call it good.

 

[RefreshGarageRich]

I swapped out the stock bars for some Deity Brendog’s and this is how I routed the cable because I wasn’t willing to drill two holes in my bars. Made a few small loops and secured behind the dropper lever, and then secured the cable to the front side of the bar with a half-width piece of electrical tape. Looks clean enough from the rider’s perspective, so will just call it good. View attachment 55854

OCD me would paint a silver I on the electrical tape ??

 

[rb.]

OCD me would paint a silver I on the electrical tape ??

Lol. I cannot see it while riding so it doesn’t bother me.

 

[DFR]

Is it normal when pushing the rear wheel sideways it's making a clicking noise and I am also able to feel a little click? I've checked all the bolts on torque, but it looks like it's in the linkage system.

 

[rb.]

Is it normal when pushing the rear wheel sideways it's making a clicking noise and I am also able to feel a little click? I've checked all the bolts on torque, but it looks like it's in the linkage system.

Not normal, something is loose somewhere.

 

[NCeMTB]

Not normal, something is loose somewhere.

Might want to check the cassette - mine was a little loose when I received bike.

 

[Stiggy_rider]

So wanted to check ppls opinion here, my 2021 SX Race had a fork issue so sent it back to Commencal to send to Rockshox. Just received the fork back, can't tell if they replaced just the upper or the whole thing. What bothers me is that the uppers no longer have the sag marks on it. Since I basically have a brand new fork (even if lowers are the originals they have 3 rides on them and no chips), do I A) keep the new fork install my charger upgrade as planned or B) sell off the Rockshox and get the Fox 38... Or C) have Commencal get me the correct uppers with the markings (don't really think it's worth the time or effort)

 

[Darkyhs]

Hey, I've had a Specialized and my Hub had a bit of play in the bearings. Specialized then send me a different hub. Try to see if it is that, or perhaps the wheel is not clamped in fully

 

[NCeMTB]

So wanted to check ppls opinion here, my 2021 SX Race had a fork issue so sent it back to Commencal to send to Rockshox. Just received the fork back, can't tell if they replaced just the upper or the whole thing. What bothers me is that the uppers no longer have the sag marks on it. Since I basically have a brand new fork (even if lowers are the originals they have 3 rides on them and no chips), do I A) keep the new fork install my charger upgrade as planned or B) sell off the Rockshox and get the Fox 38... Or C) have Commencal get me the correct uppers with the markings (don't really think it's worth the time or effort)

Personally would go with A - the Zeb’s a great fork and I find the RS products tuneable, easy to work on, and fun to ride. The lack of sag markings on the stanchion would be fine with me (Fox doesn’t have them). That said - I’ve got a 38 and it’s pretty bomber. So I think either way you are going to enjoy.

 

[robbyfritzler]

Anyone have experience installing Hope Tech 3 V4’s on the essential model? I’m having issues with the rear caliper not fitting because it’s hitting the seat stay too early.
I currently have the standard shimano center lock rotor (203mm) and the 40mm post mount.
Am I being an idiot and missing something obvious here? I was trying to install this in the blazing heat after a full day of routing the cable through the frame and was burned out.
Any suggestions are appreciated!

 

[pabloantu]

Anyone have experience installing Hope Tech 3 V4’s on the essential model? I’m having issues with the rear caliper not fitting because it’s hitting the seat stay too early.
I currently have the standard shimano center lock rotor (203mm) and the 40mm post mount.
Am I being an idiot and missing something obvious here? I was trying to install this in the blazing heat after a full day of routing the cable through the frame and was burned out.
Any suggestions are appreciated!

View attachment 63252

View attachment 63253

I had the same issue and Commencal confirmed frame is not compatible with Hope 4 piston caliper