vext
Member
Sorry just to clarify when you say 30A... These batteries in this config and this bms can handle 30 amps peak output?
Is 30A the required peak load of the m600?
Can you build your own battery for the E10 ?
- Thread starter Waynemarlow
- Start date
Is 30A the required peak load of the m600?
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #92
Basic electrical maths is V x A = W. So in our case 48V x 30A = 1440W's which as the M600 pulls about 1000W's, then 30A's would be in excess of the motor draw.
l'll let you calculate what the actual motor draw is but in electrical engineering you tend to over specify things like the BMS to ensure longevity and from spurious spikes tripping out the safety cutoff.
l'll let you calculate what the actual motor draw is but in electrical engineering you tend to over specify things like the BMS to ensure longevity and from spurious spikes tripping out the safety cutoff.
To whom it may concern: yesterday finally got my custom 14s4p 52v 20ah battery for E10. It took me a lot of time to get this battery due to having to wait for 14s BMS which turned out to be faulty and then needing to wait another month for a replacement one. But finally it came and I have the battery installed.
The battery was a very tight fit and it wasn't easy to get it in. On the bright side there is very little play left in the frame and it's secured my velcro straps and some dense foam padding.
Got a chance to test the battery today and was pleased with the performance. I believe there's some noticeable power increase, but difficult to judge due to weather conditions changed drastically. Half of the ride was on the snow covered trails with snow about 15cm deep. But the bike was doing well and I was able to ride through using 60-80% of max current. Used about 7v on my 31km ride which is not bad considering the conditions
I am attaching some photos below to show the insights and the fit
The battery was a very tight fit and it wasn't easy to get it in. On the bright side there is very little play left in the frame and it's secured my velcro straps and some dense foam padding.
Got a chance to test the battery today and was pleased with the performance. I believe there's some noticeable power increase, but difficult to judge due to weather conditions changed drastically. Half of the ride was on the snow covered trails with snow about 15cm deep. But the bike was doing well and I was able to ride through using 60-80% of max current. Used about 7v on my 31km ride which is not bad considering the conditions
I am attaching some photos below to show the insights and the fit
i'm not battery specialist, but i don't appreciate cells only sticked without any rigid case. I recommend you to add on external face an rigid plate (example carbon sheet in 2 or 3 mm) and another velcro on middle. to avoid that cells move with knocks. personally i haven't used velcro but rigid devices to fix the battery (in add it's buil with rigid plastic cage). not so easy to remove, but i'm more confient.
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #95
Do be aware that the cold temperatures will be affecting the total output, particularly as the 4P setup will be now not putting much strain on each cell ( less heat ).
In response to Patdam, yes its better but rather than a flat plate of carbon which is highly conductive, try fitting 2mm ABS sheet sides to the battery. Nonconductive relatively strong and cheap.
In response to Patdam, yes its better but rather than a flat plate of carbon which is highly conductive, try fitting 2mm ABS sheet sides to the battery. Nonconductive relatively strong and cheap.
There's no room left in the frame to add anything to the battery and the battery has no room to move around so I am not concerned the cells will be knocked around. The cells are held together by 2 types of glue, nickel strips(0.5mm) as well as tape and shrink wrap. I don't see a way to easily add a 3rd velcro, as the previous two were attached to the 2 brackets holding together internal cables nor do I think it would make much difference. The battery has zero lateral and vertical movement and only a couple of mm axial.
I am aware, yet I am sure it will still perform better in those conditions than the stock 13s5p that uses 18650 elements(these are 21700). I also believe this battery has less internal resistance due to high quality nickel and copper connections which should help to reduce voltage sag
I am aware, yet I am sure it will still perform better in those conditions than the stock 13s5p that uses 18650 elements(these are 21700). I also believe this battery has less internal resistance due to high quality nickel and copper connections which should help to reduce voltage sag
Last edited:
bram.biesiekierski
Active member
I wouldn't use the 2 cable routing threaded parts to secure the battery. On my e22, both of the threaded parts broke off from the frame with very little force. They are only epoxied on and there to secure the cables.
Mabman
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
I couldn't be happier with my 13S 21700 780wh stock type case battery compared to the stock 840wh 18650 cell one. More range, and power at lower voltage. For my daily under 30 mile rides it provides consistent power throughout. A bigger battery wouldn't do much for me but but add weight and I have another battery that fixes to the bike for big days or as a pit stop swap if possible.
bram.biesiekierski
Active member
I am gearing up to repair a bunch of power tool batteries. I have milwaukee power tools and some of the batteries are approaching 10 years old now. Recently, alot of my batteries have all started failing.
So I have purchased a powerfull spot welder, and am collecting other tools and supplies to be able to hopefully fix the battery packs.
I would like to find a decent lithium cell charger / analyser. Something that will be able to charge the individual cells, and then run diagnostic tests on them aswell. So I can locate faulty cells, and salvage good cells. To save money I am thinking perhaps collect all the good cells, and use them to make good used-cell battery packs. And then purchase new cells, and make up complete new packs with new cells.
I would also like to know where people buy thier battery cells from. (Im In Australia, so places that ship or distribute here would be good.) Ideally, I want genuine quality cells, at aliexpress / china prices haha. But I dont mind paying reasonable prices as I hopefully won't be buying massive quantities of batteries to repair the battery packs.
If it all goes well, then I will hopefully have the tools and experience to start making battery packs for the bike.
So I have purchased a powerfull spot welder, and am collecting other tools and supplies to be able to hopefully fix the battery packs.
I would like to find a decent lithium cell charger / analyser. Something that will be able to charge the individual cells, and then run diagnostic tests on them aswell. So I can locate faulty cells, and salvage good cells. To save money I am thinking perhaps collect all the good cells, and use them to make good used-cell battery packs. And then purchase new cells, and make up complete new packs with new cells.
I would also like to know where people buy thier battery cells from. (Im In Australia, so places that ship or distribute here would be good.) Ideally, I want genuine quality cells, at aliexpress / china prices haha. But I dont mind paying reasonable prices as I hopefully won't be buying massive quantities of batteries to repair the battery packs.
If it all goes well, then I will hopefully have the tools and experience to start making battery packs for the bike.
Hi guys,
motor and charger connections ends up, of course, to the poisitve and negative of the battery, but, where the power switch connections ends up?
(Thanks jtran69 for the diagram
)bram.biesiekierski
Active member
They go to the battery management system (BMS). There should be some terminals on the BMS labelled as "SW" which is abreviated for switch.
Thank you for your answer. This is what I was affraid of, as my BMS did not get a switch port
BootsDave
Active member
Do you have a smart BMS? I switch my battery on/off with an app on my phone.Thank you for your answer. This is what I was affraid of, as my BMS did not get a switch port
Yes, I got a smart one, but I would have been more confident with a on/off switch.
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #106
Much better an internal and dry electronic switch than an external switch that is open to the environment, run with it and see how you get on, you might be pleasantly surprised.
and why the switch at all? what is the benefit?
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #108
None really other than being able to put the battery into a deep sleep mode if say you were not planning to use the bike over a winter and wanted to ensure the battery didn't deeply discharge.
To be fair we have so much capacity that it would take years for a BMS to flatten a battery.
To be fair we have so much capacity that it would take years for a BMS to flatten a battery.
turning off the switch does not result in deep sleep of the battery. only the circuit is not closed, so that it can release current towards the contacts from the motor. I don't know the exact procedure, but it's a little more difficult to set the battery to sleep mode. according to everyone, if you do not use the battery for a long time, store it in a dry and warm place and charge the battery 60-70%
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #110
Yes you are correct in that the remote switch will enable the battery contacts to become live. I think the App normally allows both a method of putting the BMS / battery into a ready state and also a sleep state.
Its been some years since I've fitted one of these as those early smart BMS's and the Apps at that time were very much a software nightmare. I've fitted non smart units since, simply using the battery connector as a switch with on/off via the handlebar switch.
Its been some years since I've fitted one of these as those early smart BMS's and the Apps at that time were very much a software nightmare. I've fitted non smart units since, simply using the battery connector as a switch with on/off via the handlebar switch.
Last edited:
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #111
As an aside I have a Fazua battery here which flattened the last two groups of cells when left for about a year without charge. Unfortunately Fazua in their wisdom won't allow those groups to be replaced ( very low voltage damages the cellls ) and the whole unit is now toast.
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #112
Sorry guys, that was written in a bit of haste, I had meant the use of the BMS rather than the remote switch as the way to turn on the battery and to put it into a sleep mode, hence ficorama's reply. Apologies
I had a bafang m500-m510 on my previous dengfu e10. diy battery and smart bms. nothing special, as you said, just problems with the application. I turn off the battery via bluetooth and the app and after 2 days I can barely connect to bms. so now I had a battery made with an ordinary bms, without a switch and without smart connection. battery is on the way, 21700 cells LG 5800 mah 10s 5p 29AH, 1044WH.
not really. batteries do not discharge equally.
Its one battery?
now I see that you intend to connect one to charging. it depends on how the battery is assembled, whether it has a contact for charging and discharging together or separately. most batteries have separate ports for charging and discharging.
Connection are related to the BMS.
- One Output from the BMS to the motor
- One input from charger to the BMS
Give a look at the "nice" handmade diagram on the above post
EMTB Forums
Latest articles
-
A new standard for charging ebikes is coming? A quick interview with Bosch - charge2bike
I had a quick chat with dr Vikram Godbole about "charge2bike", a new... -
Introducing the Forestal e-Cygnus - a downcountry and XC emtb
The new Forestal e-Cygnus is a slightly unusual emtb. It comes in two...