My Dengfu E10 build

[patdam]

I have done 4 China builds. The first bike used a cheap chines frame from TanTan cycles and everything else was name brand medium to expensive components - the bike wonderful.

then I did two other builds attempting to go “all Chinese” branded components (front and rear shocks, cf wheels, brakes, handlebar - I did go with a medium to low end shimano drive train. … however). Now I will admit my riding is standard trail stuff - no real drops and few jumps if any where I live , but I have to admit the unbranded Chinese stuff seems actually quite good for all my local trails.

so my question is …. you have a fairly robust build - you did not go budget on anything but the frame. Do you think if you did it again and used Chinese branded (and thus way less expensive components) you would still have had acceptable results?

Himalo 160/180 fork, DNM rear shock, Meroca brakes, Xiamen CF wheels for example?

If i would builds another bike ? definitively yes (i have ordered other one), i don't thik i will purchase another time one day an complete bike. i don't include economic factor in my choice, if you want the cheaper, second hand complete bike or in destocking will be always cheaper. i love build and you can find only in chine ebike frame, riding DIY bike is a lot off more pleasure than an purchased complete bike.

If i will builds only with chiness components ? i don't think so, i can find here (in EU) in destocking high quality component with history on efficiently and rliability for +- the same price than china. The most interest is that they are easly maintenable, you can find easly spare parts, not for the chinese products (more easy to purchase new one). i purchase and i store when i have opportunity and i have all timme any parts to buils 1 or 2 other bike. But i have nothing doubts that china can produce high quality items. i leave another to test and perform return, may be i will purchase then by curiosity.

 

[SchadowMaster]

Hi @Kiwin, Thank you for this great and detailed post. Best post in this forum for assembling a bike.
I would also like to build a bike similar to your bike and still waiting for the motor and frame to arrive.
After several months, how did you find the bike parts?
Do you recommend choosing the same parts or did you change your mind about some of them after using during the past months?
Why didn't you choose a front and rear 203m disc brake? Can a 220m disc brake be installed?

 

[Kiwin]

Hi @Kiwin, Thank you for this great and detailed post. Best post in this forum for assembling a bike.
I would also like to build a bike similar to your bike and still waiting for the motor and frame to arrive.
After several months, how did you find the bike parts?
Do you recommend choosing the same parts or did you change your mind about some of them after using during the past months?
Why didn't you choose a front and rear 203m disc brake? Can a 220m disc brake be installed?

Thanks @SchadowMaster,
I'm very happy with the parts, I did not changed anything : everything works like a charm
As for any bike it is very important to clean it up after every ride.
I went for 203 front and 180 rear because :
- 1) I feel it is important having less breaking ability on the rear than on the front.
- 2) weight saving (rear are 2 pistons instead of 4 in the front)
- 3) reliability of the 2 pistons (for better security)
- 4) money saving
I think 220mm can be installed on the Lyrik (better check this on the actual model you will choose), you will probably have to buy adapter to mount the break.
Regards,
Kiwin

 

[Kiwin]

so my question is …. you have a fairly robust build - you did not go budget on anything but the frame. Do you think if you did it again and used Chinese branded (and thus way less expensive components) you would still have had acceptable results?
Himalo 160/180 fork, DNM rear shock, Meroca brakes, Xiamen CF wheels for example?

Hi @Jeromep,
I chose this frame because I could not find another one. And @Rob Rides EMTB posts and videos convinced me.
I did not go budget on the others parts because I wanted something reliable, and on which I trusted quality. I had another bike with Ritchey parts I was very happy with. I read lots and lots information about forks and shocks brands. Also I had to make sure everything could fit together and it was easier to find exact specs on well-known brands.
I don't know much about the brands you mention : but you are more than welcome to try and share your experience !
Kiwin

 

[Dave Rand]

Great build

 

[SchadowMaster]

Hi @Kiwin I am in the final stages of building my ebike and need a little help.
What torque should I use to tighten the three engine mounting bolts?
According to the engine installation manual, the three screws must be tightened with 35 NM Isn't that too much for the carbon frame?

 

[Dave Rand]

35nm isn’t a lot

 

[Kiwin]

Hi @Kiwin
According to the engine installation manual, the three screws must be tightened with 35 NM Isn't that too much for the carbon frame?

Hi,
I don't think I use a torque wrench to mount it. Just tightened at feeling, not too much, and checked from times to times at the beginning that it does not gets loose.
Hope your build got well !

 

[SchadowMaster]

35nm isn’t a lot

Why then the maximum torque for most frame bolts is only 8 Nm?

 

[casainho]

Hi Kiwin. I built my EBike mostly based on your components list, thanks!!

I would like to know the torque value for the lock ring that we need to use the "Radon Tool Adapter For HOLLOWTECH II Bottom Bracket" - can someone please give a guess??

This is my build with Dengfu E10 frame and Bafang M500 motor -- very happy with final result!!

I developed and built our own OpenSource EasyDIY display for Bafang M500/M510/M600 motors, that let me change every parameter of the motor while I am riding outside, including changing the max speed up to 60 km/h: https://opensourceebike.github.io/

Our EasyDIY display:

 

[SchadowMaster]

Hi Kiwin. I built my EBike mostly based on your components list, thanks!!

I would like to know the torque value for the lock ring that we need to use the "Radon Tool Adapter For HOLLOWTECH II Bottom Bracket" - can someone please give a guess??

This is my build with Dengfu E10 frame and Bafang M500 motor -- very happy with final result!!

I developed and built our own OpenSource EasyDIY display for Bafang M500/M510/M600 motors, that let me change every parameter of the motor while I am riding outside, including changing the max speed up to 60 km/h: https://opensourceebike.github.io/

View attachment 88966

View attachment 88967

Our EasyDIY display:
View attachment 88968

View attachment 88982

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View attachment 88971

Nice build and great display.
The lock ring can be tightened with 35 Nm max.

 

[LAnton]

Thank you, I will also collect E10. Previously, I collected the E09 on the M600. I've been driving for 2 years now and the E09 has some minor problems. On E10, these problems are solved. Now I have ordered the M510 48V motor. I want to compare it with the M600. Why did you buy a separate headlight and brake light? A headlight and a brake light can be connected to the motor via native wires. Bafang does not sell wires with a motor. They must be bought separately. You can connect brakes with sensors to the motor. I chose the MT5 headset, they are sold together with the wires. MT5e 3-Finger Brake Lever. MT5e HIGO-Closer 3-Finger Disc Brake. I don't remember open or close. It is very convenient when you press the brake, the motor stops and the brake light lights up.

 

[LAnton]

This is the new throttle handle

 

[LAnton]

https://www.bike24.com/p2101115.html. https://www.bike24.com/p2246833.html. https://www.bike24.com/p2351427.html.

 

[LAnton]

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[LAnton]

To connect drossel, you need to be friends with a soldering iron

 

[LAnton]

I turned off the Shift sensor, it doesn't work well, there are a lot of false positives. I'm pressing the brake a little bit now, the motor is not working and I'm switching speeds.

 

[LAnton]

Зажим для сиденья велосипеда, 31,8/34,9 мм | АлиЭкспресс. For carbon fiber it is necessary to use such

 

[casainho]

Two days ago I did my very first long ride on mountains. Everything fine except a rattling noise that I can't figure where it comes from. That noise only happens at rocks paths, not on smooth paths. At some point, I removed the frame battery cover but the noise was still there. I removed and inserted a few times the battery (original Dengfu E10 battery case) but it was good, no visible looseness and seems pretty solid.

Anyone had the same issue?? Thank in in advance.

 

[mgx]

usually its from internal frame above the motor, where bowdens are hitting frame. You need to use foam to protect this part, otherwise bowdens are hitting frame. Specially on jumps, rocks... THere are pictures on early builds here we posted. If you cannot find, let me know...

 

[casainho]

usually its from internal frame above the motor, where bowdens are hitting frame. You need to use foam to protect this part, otherwise bowdens are hitting frame. Specially on jumps, rocks... THere are pictures on early builds here we posted. If you cannot find, let me know...

If you can find the link for that posts, I would appreciate.

Meanwhile, here is a picture of inside. I was now thinking if could be the battery shaking on that yellow metal piece that locks that battery, because I can see that piece is a bit free to move when there is no battery attached...

 

[mgx]

here it is

Dengfu E10 - Build-up

Because there were a lot of assembly questions we could all share knowledge about bike assembly. So there is my bike as it came - mat black finish - size XL with DC charging port on top, M600 motor, 840Wh battery. My initial plan was leave it without additional colour, but when I saw it i...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[casainho]

Some notes about using pedal power meter on EBike, something I did not found information of:

I did first test ride with the Garmin Rally XC200 power meter pedals + Garmin Edge 1040. On the EasyDIY display, I have the regular 3 buttons and I also have the 4th button specifically to change the Garmin Edge pages.

The EasyDIY display is very small, shows only motor data and is hard to see outdoors. But since this display is implementing ANT+LEV Ebike, I am seeing the motor assist level value and battery SOC directly on Garmin Edge, which is showing important data as seen on the image: my human pedal power; my heart rate; my stamina; etc. There are other pages that I am not showing, like the map navigation page, elevation graph page, etc.

The pedal power meter seems to work very well, no issue at all for being installed on an EBike. And I was also using my Garmin Fenix 7 watch, where I also paired the pedals power meter, meaning I was receiving and recording the same value both on my watch and on the GPS cycling computer. This is the advantage of ANT compared to Bluetooth.

 

[ficorama]

Зажим для сиденья велосипеда, 31,8/34,9 мм | АлиЭкспресс. For carbon fiber it is necessary to use such

i tried such a clamp. not good for carbon. is etched in the seat post. I'm afraid it will damage the carbon?

 

[casainho]

usually its from internal frame above the motor, where bowdens are hitting frame. You need to use foam to protect this part, otherwise bowdens are hitting frame. Specially on jumps, rocks... THere are pictures on early builds here we posted. If you cannot find, let me know...

I tested without the battery and battery frame cover, but that noise stills there.
So tomorrow I will try to use the foam as you say.

 

[ficorama]

Two days ago I did my very first long ride on mountains. Everything fine except a rattling noise that I can't figure where it comes from. That noise only happens at rocks paths, not on smooth paths. At some point, I removed the frame battery cover but the noise was still there. I removed and inserted a few times the battery (original Dengfu E10 battery case) but it was good, no visible looseness and seems pretty solid.

Anyone had the same issue?? Thank in in advance.

did you maybe put fenders on your bike?

 

[patdam]

i tried such a clamp. not good for carbon. is etched in the seat post. I'm afraid it will damage the carbon?

I use the same without any problem ? i think it is better than classic clamps for carbone (wider/2 tightening) and i appreciate the rubber gasket. which clamp do you recommend ?

 

[thaeber]

Two days ago I did my very first long ride on mountains. Everything fine except a rattling noise that I can't figure where it comes from. That noise only happens at rocks paths, not on smooth paths. At some point, I removed the frame battery cover but the noise was still there. I removed and inserted a few times the battery (original Dengfu E10 battery case) but it was good, no visible looseness and seems pretty solid.

Anyone had the same issue?? Thank in in advance.

May be Your teeth?

 

[mgx]

Thats why US bikers and soldiers always have a gumin mouth.To avoid this

 

[casainho]

I tested without the battery and battery frame cover, but that noise stills there.
So tomorrow I will try to use the foam as you say.

I found the issue, the cassette was a small bit loose. This time I used a torque wrench with adequate torque and I already did 400kms on mountains and that noise is gone.