Lucky Luke
Member
It found this image
Bafang M500 and M600 motors
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
? may be more useful if you communicate more info. explanation, link.
Lucky Luke
Member
In google images.
I have the LCD SW 102 and I want connect this display with my M600. The LCD SW102 don't have a triangle conector and I want conect the SW102 with a extensor cable BAFANG with triangle conector and this image is may solution.
This is
Excuse me for my bad english
I have the LCD SW 102 and I want connect this display with my M600. The LCD SW102 don't have a triangle conector and I want conect the SW102 with a extensor cable BAFANG with triangle conector and this image is may solution.
This is
Excuse me for my bad english
Yeah - this happened to mine as well from new. Dealer requested me to take a video on my phone showing how / where it occurs. Took the bike back to shop, where the dealer slips on an extra little magnet on top off the existing wheel speed magnet - kinda like two together - and now the speed (jumping) issue is resolved. Looks like there may be a calibration issue with the newest motors, speed readers and perhaps firmware? For reference, mine is M600 with the 46.7 Firmware version on the controller
ornias
Member
Your english is pretty fine.
But this is not going to work.
The m600 and m500 use a CANBUS connection with the display, your display is an UART connection. Thats not talking about the connector (the physical plug) but the protocol that is send between the devices.
And in case you wonder "can't I build something to translate that protocol", sadly enough only a few commands between the display and motor have been reverse engineered for now.
Lucky Luke
Member
Muchas gracias.
Creo que tienes la razón, el invento fue un fracaso
Creo que tienes la razón, el invento fue un fracaso
captainhightop
Active member
My ride home yesterday was in torrential rain, took it slow but about 8 miles in got an error 27. Had to pedal unpowered for about 4 miles in the rain.
I can't find any reference to error 27 in any documentation (isn't that always the way!).
But to answer your question, I now have this clicking coming from the battery, no water in the battery that I could see, but the dock in the bike looks to have some as every time I pull the battery out there is water on it. I've sprayed it with ISO alcohol to try and displace the water, but it seems to keep coming out. My voltage switches from 1% to 14% to 100% and sometimes the pedal assist sort of works but only at a super low wattage (20W etc).
Unfortunately I haven't got time to take the motor apart, but I did try and detach the charge port on the bike (as it's the old style upwards facing one). This did nothing.
I'm thinking water in the controller or the dock is this issue or maybe a combination of both. Hopefully while I'm away next week, it will all magically dry out otherwise I've got a long wait for parts I would assume.
Oh and as an aside, the main power switch (not the one on the handlebars) has no effect at all now, so maybe that points to the dock rather than the controller.
I'll let you know when/if I find out what the issue is, but it'll be a week or two till I can get the time to look at it now :-(
edit: just thought, I've got an XT90 to XT60 adapter for my phase runner, that means I can probably try another battery and rule out the dock (it's 52V, but not fully charged so it should be okay).
Another edit:
I've just tried the other battery (52V) and no problems at all, so the problem is between the motor and battery, either the battery itself (unlikely as I see no water ingress or damage on disassembly). So I'll need to remove the battery dock, dry it out and add some drain holes and lots of silicone grease. I think it's got into the actual assembly where the prongs are, and that's has loads of sealant on the back which is probably keeping the water from draining out. If it does it again, I'll likely alter the battery to just use XT60 directly or build a new battery that fits in the same space again with XT60 connectors.
I'm relieved as it doesn't seem to be a controller issue. If it was, that means a long wait for parts, buying a complete new motor (if controller not available), or if I'm really impatient using either my phase runner controller or the BAC800 I've got on the shelf doing nothing). Not sure how I can use torque control on the BAC800 though as it's locked down with a password and if it's the same as the phase runner only a throttle input is possible (cycle analyst does all the decoding of pedal type info on the phase runner).
Last edited:
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
I think the error code is dependant on which display you have. On my DP C241 error 27 is an over current from the controller ( did you have the motor on Boost by any chance ). On the last page of this pdf is all the error codes.
captainhightop
Active member
Only on level 1, not boost, but it was wet, so shorting due to water ingress could potentially cause that. I'm not get that error any more though. Although the system still doesn't work, only had a day to dry out so far though - thanks for the link to the document though, I'd not thought to look for specific HMI errors rather than general controller errors!
Last edited:
ornias
Member
Okey, Li-on safety guidelines 101:
If your battery has ANY unexpected behavior: unplug at once and have it checked out by a specialist.
There are too many house(!) fires already due to faulty batteries. Do not risk it!
If your battery has ANY unexpected behavior: unplug at once and have it checked out by a specialist.
There are too many house(!) fires already due to faulty batteries. Do not risk it!
Animalector
Active member
Error 27 is Controller over current
With the Besst Tool.. This looks like the "Controller Current" reporting around 2.5A, but actually the "battery current" only reports around 40mA (idle on the bench).
Option 1 - Try reflashing the firmware - This worked for me once. for around 3 months, and then the issue returned.
Option 2 - Replacement Controller.
I actually think it is a firmware fault somewhere.. because re-flashing the firmware should absolutely NOT fix a hardware fault. But that is just my opinion.
Attached is a PDF i sent to Bafang. after this they decided to send a replacement controller. It shows the difference between the Controller Current and the Battery current, which typically are approximately the same.
**EDIT**
The controller is physically fine, I inspected for water / damage and found nothing.
Cheers
Andy
With the Besst Tool.. This looks like the "Controller Current" reporting around 2.5A, but actually the "battery current" only reports around 40mA (idle on the bench).
Option 1 - Try reflashing the firmware - This worked for me once. for around 3 months, and then the issue returned.
Option 2 - Replacement Controller.
I actually think it is a firmware fault somewhere.. because re-flashing the firmware should absolutely NOT fix a hardware fault. But that is just my opinion.
Attached is a PDF i sent to Bafang. after this they decided to send a replacement controller. It shows the difference between the Controller Current and the Battery current, which typically are approximately the same.
**EDIT**
The controller is physically fine, I inspected for water / damage and found nothing.
Cheers
Andy
ornias
Member
Updating the firmware is a required step to remove errors actually. Once an error is triggered it often needs a firmware flash to reset the flag.
Also: It might be usefull not to use ancient old firmwares from 2019.
Animalector
Active member
Thanks for the advice, I agree sometimes you reset flags through a firmware reset. However, the actual reported current was 2.5A in the controller, whereas the reported current from the Battery was 40mA. If you take the Battery current as truth, there is something happening to make the Controller 'think' it's using 2.5A and therefore sending and overcurrent. 2.5A is quite a bit...
Also I appreciate the advice about the ancient firmware, have you got newer firmware? if so, can you please share it. I have requested the 'latest' firmware from Bafang directly and that's what I got.
how I can collect firmware.bin installed in my controlers ?
To upload last rev, bafang have said me that we can recover it with "get a file from cloud" with the BESST tool, but when i do that i have a mistake message "then no history software of BESST"
To upload last rev, bafang have said me that we can recover it with "get a file from cloud" with the BESST tool, but when i do that i have a mistake message "then no history software of BESST"
Tell me, can I replace an expensive BESST adapter with an cheap USB-CAN adapter?
you cannot as far i know, but there are avaiable firmwares you have in Official and experimental-custom versions up to 15 Amps.
Bafang_M500_M600/Firmwares at main · OpenSourceEBike/Bafang_M500_M600
Contribute to OpenSourceEBike/Bafang_M500_M600 development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com
captainhightop
Active member
Well after a large full english breakfast, I decided not to waste the rest of Sunday pontificating, so I've stripped out the dock. I've attached a load of pictures to show the breakdown of it. As you can see the dock seems to be designed to collect water at the bottom where the pins are. Not the best design obviously. Whilst disassembling, I noticed that the red wire on the XT30 was only hanging on by a few threads so I've stripped it back and resoldered and head-shrunk it back onto the backs of the gold pogo pins. As a test, I checked the system without the on/off switch attached (removed both wires). Without the switch, it unsurprisingly would not turn on via the display. This could mean one of two things was causing the clicking and it being permanently turned on.
- Water ingress was intermittently shorting the switch
- Or lack of conductor on the red wire was causing the intermittent behaviour (I've had this kind of intermittent power fault with motorcycles before where only a strand of conductor was left and could only be diagnosed by stripping the wiring loom down bit by bit)
Next step is to drill some drain holes in the dock to alleviate water ingress and maybe design some sort of baffle to stop water being thrown up from the road into the back of the connector. I'll also pot the back of the connector with silicone and grease the rest of it. The water also appear to have pooled in the recess behind the plastic cover on the connector, so I'm going to coat that whole assembly in silicone grease as an extra water proofing measure.
The rain was monsoon like, so and no bike is completely waterproof, but a bit better design would have avoided this situation.
Another solution could be to permanently enable the battery on-switch internally (as all my other batteries are). I've never had a battery with an on-switch actually connected before (although both BMS's I've used had the wire-loop you could use to add a switch), so it's not like it's a must have feature.
ornias
Member
I would suggest anyone with an ebike to manually add some silicone sealant on-top-off all seams. Just to be sure and prevent these kinda of issues.
captainhightop
Active member
While sealant does help to it's not a cure (lol) all, think about where water will go if it does get in (and it will). Most off the shelf bikes have some sort of drainage for when water gets in. I've added drain holes now, and I'll seal what I can around exposed wiring wiring around the back of the battery dock with some sort of sealant or flexible potting compound. I'm using a 3D printed mold to keep the compound in place while it cures. Then I'll grease or seal whatever is left. For what it's worth the M600 itself looks pretty waterproof, even so I'd already silicone greased up every seal and plug after lessons learned from running BBSHDs through winter (sealent perished quickly on those in harsh conditions).
I hate to think what would happen if I didn't have a battery with a BMS with short circuit protection!
Holes and mold:
ornias
Member
My reply was not about your issue directly. The problem in your case is most likely an battery holder without proper sealing between the battery and the dock. For example: internal batteries should've a cover with a seal, external batteriea should've a seal at least around the connector.
Those drainage holes are not really to dump water ingress, they are to ensure condensate can get away. However: the insides of motors should indeed be potted, one of the few design flaws in the M500 and M600 if you ask me. The other design flaw is the crappy seals between motor case parts.
RyeNiel
Member
anybody here running a different display for the M600?
owenclarke47
New Member
HI having an issue with my bafang m500, was out today and it was dropping from power 5 to 1 and screen turning off a lot , i stopped took out the controller wire , reconnected and it said error 30, wouldnt start at all. eventually got it back home and it running as normal, thought i best reflash firmware using besst tool which i did, now it turns on and says error 64 for a short time before going back to normal screen.
i had also display flashes and it was the cable.But didn't have any error.And for the people riding during rain or through mud , just don't do it you will never have a problem with your bike.
Hello All,
Is it just me or the level 1 of assistance on the M600 is much too powerful ?
I would really like it to be like 50% less powerful and hopefully consuming less battery then.
How can we change it ? I got the kit from Dengfu, and I can't even change wheel size, nor speed-limit...
Have a good day !
Is it just me or the level 1 of assistance on the M600 is much too powerful ?
I would really like it to be like 50% less powerful and hopefully consuming less battery then.
How can we change it ? I got the kit from Dengfu, and I can't even change wheel size, nor speed-limit...
Have a good day !
Hi, I am on a M500 but my experience is the opposite. Mine feels normal at level 1 but once I start climbing of 8degree slopes, the motor feels not assisting and hums like struggling or low battery feeling even I have over 80% charge...
I am wondering whether its the motor or just the controller programming is the issue???
ornias
Member
The M500 does not have much power to give with the stock firmware.
Bafang introduces new drive systems for e-city and e-MTB at Eurobike | Gear | BikeBiz
M500 v2 (hardware v2)
18% lighter and 20% stronger
M500 v2 (hardware v2)
18% lighter and 20% stronger
you can probably try changing the assist mode to 9 levels rather than 5. This will halve the torque output by almost 45%.
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
Still way too powerful, 360W’s on mine. You need about 80W’s to overcome the motor and added weight of an EBike, about 150W’s to give you an advantage over fit analogue riders, 250W’s to get into the fast and assisted fun zone, 350W’s into the real fun zone and then on up to the super fast and no need of assistance of level 9 which is about 1200W’s on the M600 with a full battery.
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