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I think the last of the old system was around 2007/2008 so not exactly recent :)

TBF the older Maestro systems didn't have a lower shock ballrace as they didn't share the lower shock mount with the linkage. Maybe thats where the confusion is coming in. But for sure, anything recent is shared with the bearings in the linkage as @trailaddict says.

Lets hope your real name isnt the same as your forum name otherwise you are properly bang to rights.

Head, wall and bang. I'm out.

In theory you're right. In reality, very, very few people have difficulty modulating their brakes at around the lock point. You would have to have a severely badly designed system (totally incorrect master cylinder size being the main one) to have any real issues with modulation. Another...

You did. The rest of your post has already been discussed.

If you'd had blued the rotors they would still be blue now, so go have a look ;)

Agreed. There also seem to be some who are a little too worried about not getting their brakes hot enough (cue'd from the Hope literature) but for what we are using I really don't think this is something we should be worried about. Race spec carbon brakes deffo need to be hot to work right but...

You're right, as is your full (non ambiguous) statement. I'm not sure that is whats causing the disagreement though, I believe most understand what RJUK is trying to say, semantics or otherwise.

You're right. I've spent a fair amount of time around brakes, cars in particular. Sourcing customer solutions for road, rally and race. Using Brembo, AP, Willwood etc. I must have sold 100's of each. The only time you need a bigger brake is 1. if they are overheating and different pads won't...

Lovely bit of kit, just had a look at them but £170 plus £20 per month subscription is more than I can stomach :(

Evaporating grease? New one on me... For used forks, I do wonder whether some stick-downs are simply the result of air gradually passing the piston due to wear rather than blocked ports.

Yes, because I'm fairly sure the Bosch has a cadence sensor running off the crank rotation too. From this, plus road speed, the motor knows what gear you are in. I'd be surprised if the Shimano motor doesn't have it as well.

Ah sorry yeah I just re-read your post, you just took the top cap off. I still think it's strange that such a small nubbin of grease can stay put even with minor pressure differentials. But you're yet another owner that seems to have proved this is indeed the case. Maybe the manufacturers just...

Thats a banging bike. And Ohlins kit is pure bike porn :love:

If the port was blocked, are you saying the forks were never equalised prior to your stripdown? Or that they were, but only from the original factory pressure, and that your process of pumping/equalising didn't change what was in the negative from the factory? Theres also the school of thought...

Cracking bike for that money! 🤟 Whats happening with your old RS?

Yep, it's a bit of a pain. You do get used to it but even now I have to think about it - you need to let go of that button as soon as the screen changes! I suggested to them that it would be better to have a different button config to activate/change max speed but I don't think enough people...

I meant to also clarify that the lower O ring in the OP's pic isn't actually used for sealing, it's only a retention stopper for the outer sleeve. It's the 2x internal O rings on the can that do the sealing. And yes Sean is right, instructions do say to use grease on the O rings but my comments...

Don't even need grease on those O rings, a thin layer of oil is enough, just to stop them 'grabbing' when tightening/closing up the can.