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I agree to a point, but it's definitely worse now than when it was only trails/enduro bikes that the scrotes used. I am pretty sure it's because most illegal ebikes can look too similar to a regular bike. A KX80 screaming down the road is somewhat easier to spot/hear as being a 'motorbike' than...

The shape of things to come? Seems Germany is leading the fight against derestriction..: https://ebiketips.road.cc/content/news/bluetooth-could-help-police-spot-e-bikes-hacked-for-higher-speeds-4949

The return distance of the pistons between the lever being on or off is indeed set. If you fit thicker rotors without retracting the pistons beforehand then yes of course the gap will be smaller. But we don't fit new discs or pads without retracting the pistons. So lets assume we fit a 2mm disc...

I'm not sure I understand your question. In short, the gap between the pad and the disc will be the same irrespective of disc or pad width. As pads wear, yes the pistons do come out further, but the on/off clearance remains the same.

No they don't. Our hydraulic brakes are self-adjusting and therefore pad to disc clearance is dictated by master cylinder size/design, not the disc thickness. For exactly the same reason, you shouldn't be having to pull the lever further the more your pads wear.

Yeah I'm pretty careful about this, my road is fairly quiet too so I'm able to carry on riding if I see anyone walking around the vicinity of my house when I get near. Seems a bit anal but I'd rather add a couple of minutes to my ride and go around the block than anyone see me go down my side...

I can't remember who my insurer was at the time but when my Trance got nicked the only original part on it was the frame. The insurers were really good though (it was also handled by a bike specialist 3rd party), I listed all the parts I had bought and how much they cost. We knew it couldn't be...

Could be, but as has been mentioned before, the bushing clearances can be a bit of a lottery with RS and you can end up chasing your tail trying to sort stiction and harshness, spending hours and hours dicking around with pressures/tokens/damping etc when all the time it's just a poorly sized...

Carefully cut a slot in it with a dremel and use a quality large flat-bladed screwdriver. I have some drivers with an 8mm hex at the top of the shaft to provide some additional leverage with a spanner. If you don't have the hex, try the old kerbside autos method of clamping a set of mole grips...

I believe it's because they have a large internal volume compared to some other 38's. My Domains are the same. If you never hit full travel why are you using tokens? I don't run any. I think zero is actually recommended by RS too, partly because of the issue you describe. Tokens do reduce the...

Pi$$ing myself laughing at the name. Genius. I made a CrapFlap for my Haibike, happy to make up a template for you if you want to add another bike model to your portfolio. Crappy pic of it having already caught some crap but you get the idea:

It's funny, I saw quite a few riders using them last year at Morzine but oddly these same kids wore woefully little other protection. In fact it seemed that the more experienced you were the less you wore (discounting the neck brace). Many riders were smashing the blacks with little more than a...

I recall someone on here buying a Trek Powerfly FS4 for their Mrs, it struck me how small it was and the standover was really low. Worth looking at.

No one heard anything, and I'm a light sleeper too. Also, mine and my boys bike (also stolen) were rearmost of the 4 stacked family bikes. The locks were nowhere to be seen, and there was no damage to what they were locked to. Must have been bloody Houdini. The thieving scum left the Mrs and...

Having had a bike nicked whilst camping (2 locks around it, 2 feet from where my head was in the tent) I work slightly differently now. The bike goes in the tent (drive away awning) with me. And it has a motion alarm. And (I kid you not) a steel cable that goes from the bike and is attached to...

I agree it's bloody annoying. I love the clean look but my Haibike also has bare brake and cable outers routed through un-insulated channels in the frame and swingarm. Theres zero reason why internally routed should have a wear problem, it's just shitty cable management.

Interesting. I did wonder if this might be a consideration for some, and you have just answered that question. My Bosch was one of the last before the Smart system came out and it was only by chance that I bought it when I did. Glad too, my V4 has been fine.

Not sure whether it may help, but the DVSA are hammering ebike retailers who don't make it clear that their ebikes are not compliant for public use. Theres been about 7 prosecutions recently, one of whom got an £18k fine, plus the company had to recall all of the bikes they sold. Might be worth...

I ride one regularly, it does 45mph and the newer ones do 55mph now. And yeah, always fully geared on the bloody things!

Schwalbe Johnny Watts for me. Works great on the back. I don't even bother swopping the front out (Maxxis DHF) as it just doesnt seem to wear, even on tarmac. In fact I leave the JW on for most of the year tbh as although much of my riding is trail/forest I rarely ride really sloppy stuff.