steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
As with many things, it's the attention to detail that counts. When watching someone else do it, who really knows what to do, unless they spell it all out, the beginner will miss the critical details.
Thanks.
What tyres? The Ultimate Tyre Thread
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
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- magic mary tyres vigilante
As with many things, it's the attention to detail that counts. When watching someone else do it, who really knows what to do, unless they spell it all out, the beginner will miss the critical details.
Thanks.
The DHF is a few mm wider (4.5 mm) and shorter than the Butcher 2.6, I can take exact measures if you want.
@pgtips how did they perform then?Minnion DHF 29" 2.5 at the rear and Shorty 29" 2.5 at the front.
Testing on Sunday at the meet at Swinley.
Hopefully they would be the ones
View attachment 7698
I'm looking to change for UK winter
Yes, they are very grippy, but heavy and relatively slow rolling as i have the DH Casing Super Soft version.
drjarvis2003
Well-known member
Just a quick update on the Magic Mary 2.6 ultra soft DH.
Managed to half rip a knob off and it tore the casing roughly in the middle of the tyre. Great tyres, but i thought they were made of stronger stuff than this.
Im 65kg and running them on a Merida e one sixty.
Managed to half rip a knob off and it tore the casing roughly in the middle of the tyre. Great tyres, but i thought they were made of stronger stuff than this.
Im 65kg and running them on a Merida e one sixty.
So funny story of a noob:
Yesterday i thought about changing my rear tire Nobby Nic for the Continental Baron and it was one hell of a experience! I am talking about the mounting process.
I believe i only changed once a tire so far and that was over 5 years ago. Never had a puncture so never fixed a tube. However yesterday was a trial and error day for me
The removal was ok, no pinching of the tube but the mounting process was such a pain in the ass. The Baron is such a bit**!
First i broke one tire lever and after ages i managed to mount the tire. I filled the tube and had a hole.
Removed the wheel, took out the tube and grabed my spare tube which i was carrying arount in my backpack for over a month. Then i noticed it was the wrong tube. (I think its a Schwalbe 19 and i need a 21F). Some fool sold me the wrong tube in the shop! Dooh!
So what, i repaired the whole (first time ever
Then finally with three repaired holes i managed to mount the tube and the tire! Yippie yippie yeah!
So glad this didnt happen on the trail.
Now i am considerung to switch to tubless. I wouldnt want to have these issues on a trail.
I took the Baron yesterday for a test ride (17km) and i am impressed with its performance. Conditions were really wet, 5 - 8 °C, mainly leaves and roots, little mud and some gravel roads. Looking forward to the next ride to get a better feeling for the setup.
However, I think i have an issue with the Baron. Looks like a strong imbalance on the tire. Today i already deflated and inflated the tube 3 times and still have a wobble.
Could it be a production fault?
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
..........
However, I think i have an issue with the Baron. Looks like a strong imbalance on the tire. Today i already deflated and inflated the tube 3 times and still have a wobble.
Could it be a production fault?
Did you check the train tracks?
Some tyres have train tracks, but all have a thin moulded line on the sidewall that should be very close to and parallel with the rim. Take a look and if the line is varying in distance from the rim (should be about 3 mm), or even disappearing under the rim, then the tyre is not mounted squarely on the rim. to fix it, deflate the tyre a lot. Then grab the tyre, and on one side at a time, where the line is too close to the rim, pull the carcass away from the rim. Repeat around the wheel, both sides until the line is parallel all the way around. Re-inflate and if it is still wobbling badly then it is out of balance.
Just had a thought, you haven't gone tubeless have you? If so, the sealant will have settled on the bottom of the tyre and at first spin the whole wheel will be out of balance. Once it has distribute it's self around the tyre, it will be fine.
In my quest of finding a low profile 29er rear tire that does not rub on my 2018 Levo FSR i came across a very good database containing data actually measured of more than a 1500 MTB tires. It list actual profile height and width up against rim type/width and tire pressure. The link to the resource is(in German but Google translate is your friend):
Reifenbreiten-Datenbank
Karsten
Reifenbreiten-Datenbank
Karsten
Cool database
Here's the links for Bing & Google English translated versions depending on your persuasion. And watch out for Schwalbe -> Swallow sometimes …
Bing translated: Tyre Width Database
Google translated: Tyre Width Databse
Ok so I've had two side wall punctures in two weeks. One was the shitty stock tyre + tube. The other maxxis aggressor running tubeless. I ride where it's pretty rocky and it's dry this time of year. Do people recommend using a dynaplug to fix my (brand new) aggressor?
If not can someone please recommend a tyre (or setup) with a side wall that's going to withstand?? I can't afford to be forking out $100 every second ride!
If not can someone please recommend a tyre (or setup) with a side wall that's going to withstand?? I can't afford to be forking out $100 every second ride!
Your simplest soloution is to run a heavy duty DH tyre with dual ply reinforced casings.
The downside with these tyres is they are very heavy.
If you're puncturing sidewalls regularly you should probably try to work out why it's happening as it may well be avoidable by something as simple as running a higher more supportive tyre pressures so the tyre doesn't pinch between the rim and rock.
Do you ever puncture the centre tread as well? Where abouts exactly on the sidewall are you puncturing the tyre? and is the puncture a tear? and fi so is in a straight line? and parallel to the bead? or are your punctures more rounded holes? pics would help here.
Punctured tyres can be plugged, sewn, patched from the inside or a combination of all 3 but It's difficult to advise a solution without seeing the damage.
The downside with these tyres is they are very heavy.
If you're puncturing sidewalls regularly you should probably try to work out why it's happening as it may well be avoidable by something as simple as running a higher more supportive tyre pressures so the tyre doesn't pinch between the rim and rock.
Do you ever puncture the centre tread as well? Where abouts exactly on the sidewall are you puncturing the tyre? and is the puncture a tear? and fi so is in a straight line? and parallel to the bead? or are your punctures more rounded holes? pics would help here.
Punctured tyres can be plugged, sewn, patched from the inside or a combination of all 3 but It's difficult to advise a solution without seeing the damage.
If the rip is more than 10-15mm I'd sew it first before petching from the inside
you'll need to use something strong like fishing line
What do you weigh? and what width is the tyre?
you'll need to use something strong like fishing line
What do you weigh? and what width is the tyre?
90kg and I ride more on the aggressive side.
I was hitting jumps prior to puncture with no problems and no sidewall collapsing when cornering. The trails are super dry at the moment so running high pressures makes it pretty sketchy.
The aggressor is a 27.5 in 2.5
I was hitting jumps prior to puncture with no problems and no sidewall collapsing when cornering. The trails are super dry at the moment so running high pressures makes it pretty sketchy.
The aggressor is a 27.5 in 2.5
20 definitely sounds very low for a maxxis 2.5 for an agressive 90kg rider to me. Especially in dry rocky conditions.
Not knowing how you ride, corner or jump I couldn't really comment on whether it's supportive enough or not from that.
Not knowing how you ride, corner or jump I couldn't really comment on whether it's supportive enough or not from that.
I see Michelin has new emtb tires out. The pattern looks similar to their wild enduro series. Casings are the same as the enduro casings. I’ve had good luck with mine. They’re similar weights to maxis dd’s but better pinch flat resistance with the added pinch flatprotection section that goes from the bead to above the rim sidewall. Same grippy slow rebound rubber options. Basically the same as the Michelin enduro builds but wider options. Haven’t seen them in person but tread also looks similar to their enduro tires as well. They run wide. My wild rockr2 2.35 is the same width as a 2.5 minion dhf. I’m guessing their new emtb 2.6 and 2.8 will measure like 2.75 and 2.95 respectively and weigh around 1200grams(my wild rockr2 is 1100grams)Similar performance to a dhf just better/edgier side knobs , more damp and better wear on the Michelin’s. Haven’t tried a wild enduro front but the rear has been great(added rolling speed and still has nice edging side knobs)
Maxxis have had a similar butyl insert in their dual ply tyres for exactly the same reason for almost 2 decades
Wee bit of history on Michelin mtb tyres:
Michelin tyre widths were always been more consistent/acurate than maxxis. eg. A michelin 2.2 comp 16 back in the late 90s measured fairly close to the stated 2.2 width and was actually wider than the maxxis 2.35 highroller when released around the year 2000. The highroller when realeased was a blatant copy of the comp 16. only not quite as good in intermediate conditions. Maxxis broke into the DH tyre market by undercutting michelin's prices considerably and handing out free tyres to pretty much every decent rider on the DH circuit taking over the entire market in just one year. Whereas Michelin only gave their proper DH tyres to the very cream of the crop WC riders for years and they they remained unavailable to punters. Odd strategy, huh?
Any Emtb specific tyre is just a massive con IMO but most of the big manufacturers will probably eventually offer something EMTB specific. because £££££££££££$$$$$$$$
Ya then they just gave up after that hay day period in the late 90’s/early 2000’s and dropped mt ball together. Too bad they were great tires. Tread pattern of the 22’s looks like the wild enduro front. They had the first ust tire. It was all about steep and north shore then for me so I ran the intense World Cup, didn’t like the 909 . I think they were 4 ply or something. Couldn’t even fold them in half with all your might when they were new, before mounting. Almost a motocross tire but you rarely fitted and if you did you could still ride to the bottom almost as fast. Maxxis or Michelin dh tires couldn’t do that but they were probably a pound lighter.
1100vram tire is my happy place now unless it’s a dh bike. New Michelin’s are my fave. Wild rockr2 in particular. Great rubber and good prices at crc
Jumpers for goalposts, isn't it, wasn' it?
Intense tyres could always be a bit hit or miss. From their their soft compoujnds that lost sideknobs every run. to the massively heavy 4 plys and odd tread paterns. They did have some tyres early on that were well ahead of the curve. Remember the Comp 50 2.7? that was like 1999.
I still have a few old intense tyres kicking about and a few prototype michies that never got put into production.
1100-1200g is about right for DH for me now. 850-900g ish (but higher pressures) for absolutely everything else.
Intense tyres could always be a bit hit or miss. From their their soft compoujnds that lost sideknobs every run. to the massively heavy 4 plys and odd tread paterns. They did have some tyres early on that were well ahead of the curve. Remember the Comp 50 2.7? that was like 1999.
I still have a few old intense tyres kicking about and a few prototype michies that never got put into production.
1100-1200g is about right for DH for me now. 850-900g ish (but higher pressures) for absolutely everything else.
Being a bit of a bodger, when I had my first tubeless puncture a couple of weeks ago albeit on the running surface, the sealant didn't do it's job so I used a tube for a trailside fix.
When I got home I looked at the hole and I guess it was a 'L' shaped cut about 3-4mm long on one side and 2-3mm the other way.
I got a conventional tyre repair kit, the type with thicker patches and rubber solution. I cleaned the inside of the tyre with some Isopropol Alcohol and put one of the smallest patches on it and then after this was dry I put the biggest size over this.
Seems to be ok so far, maybe you could try this and possibly using some super glue to hold the outside abrasion down.
Don't know of this would work though with the tyre flexing as it's on the side wall.
Maybe @Gary would give his thoughts on this.
Cheers, Mark
When I got home I looked at the hole and I guess it was a 'L' shaped cut about 3-4mm long on one side and 2-3mm the other way.
I got a conventional tyre repair kit, the type with thicker patches and rubber solution. I cleaned the inside of the tyre with some Isopropol Alcohol and put one of the smallest patches on it and then after this was dry I put the biggest size over this.
Seems to be ok so far, maybe you could try this and possibly using some super glue to hold the outside abrasion down.
Don't know of this would work though with the tyre flexing as it's on the side wall.
Maybe @Gary would give his thoughts on this.
Cheers, Mark
it's a bodge for sure but may well be enough. a similar repair on one of my tyres is holding fine albeit with a slight bulge at the tear. I really should have sewn it too but didn't have anything suitable to hand.
Just always make sure on longer rides you have a spare tube and something suitable to use as a tyre boot to avoid a long walk home.
Just always make sure on longer rides you have a spare tube and something suitable to use as a tyre boot to avoid a long walk home.
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
I have never heard of sewing tears in a tyre wall. How easy is it? Any special techniques? What size needle and what thread do you use. How many threads per inch of tear? Is there a maximum tear length? Fishing line was mentioned, what breaking strain do you recommend? Am I right to assume a thimble is required?
So many questions....
So many questions....
Sotoo many questions....
I'm no seamstress honey
(I run Shimano but I aint no angler either)
Yes, comp 50’s before they changed manufacturer and the knobs were pulling offJumpers for goalposts, isn't it, wasn' it?
Intense tyres could always be a bit hit or miss. From their their soft compoujnds that lost sideknobs every run. to the massively heavy 4 plys and odd tread paterns. They did have some tyres early on that were well ahead of the curve. Remember the Comp 50 2.7? that was like 1999.
I still have a few old intense tyres kicking about and a few prototype michies that never got put into production.
1100-1200g is about right for DH for me now. 850-900g ish (but higher pressures) for absolutely everything else.
I can’t run eco/grid weight tires around here. I’ve settled in the 1100g weight w Huck norris in the rear for my trail and enduro bike. Just sold the enduro bike with maxxis dhf dd/Onza citius en/fr. My trail bike has wild rockr2 front/wild enduro r with Huck Norris rear
So far so good but if I go to the dh trails the speeds get up after a few laps and I think I want proper dh casing tires. Next yr the ski hill is opening for emtb and there was talk on access for other trails with emtb’s(not sure how that’s going) so I may need some dh tires. Probably be g5’s Unless Michelin releases that dh tire Sam and Cam have
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
I'm no seamstress honey
(I run Shimano but I aint no angler either)
Aww.. and there was me hoping to learn something.
Jirkovo
Well-known member
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