What tyres? The Ultimate Tyre Thread

[Krisj]

Anyone tried kenda hellkats

 

[ikaramboo]

I ordered the Baron Project 4 in 2.6" for the rear.

Cant wait to give it a try. If the handling is good, i'll also switch to the Baron in the front.

 

[lenny74]

So can someone enlighten me to what I may be missing here...Are 2.6 tyres all that???

So I swapped out my stock 2.6 Butchers for a 2.35 Magic Mary/Hans Dampf combo. No real reason other than I wanted to try the Magic Mary and didn't want to go the mammoth 2.6 (or mammoth cost of the 2.6). Nothing against the Butchers, just something didn't feel solid with them.

So I fitted the new tyres, slightly narrower as expected but not that much in it and overall to me they looked and felt better more substantial tyres.

Then I started to think, well what am I going to miss by going to 2.35, everyones running 2.6, new bikes have 2.6 tyres, the bike world is mad for 2.6!!

So I rode the new tyres today, slippery muddy/leafy single track, plenty of slippery roots, a few drops and slippery uphill climbs. The tyres felt good, very good in fact. No problems and dare I say it a better feel than the Butcher 2.6s.

So what exactly am I missing here, granted I'm not riding steep downhill rocky mountains but the bike came with 2.6 tyres so I thought I might need 2.6 tyres....turns out I don't and Ive saved myself a few quid in the mix. I have front forks, I have a rear shock, do I need a few extra psi that a 2.6 can offer??

Someone put me in place and tell my 2.6 is what I need (or don't I'm not bothered, i'm just sharing my thoughts )

 

[ikaramboo]

So can someone enlighten me to what I may be missing here...Are 2.6 tyres all that???

So I swapped out my stock 2.6 Butchers for a 2.35 Magic Mary/Hans Dampf combo. No real reason other than I wanted to try the Magic Mary and didn't want to go the mammoth 2.6 (or mammoth cost of the 2.6). Nothing against the Butchers, just something didn't feel solid with them.

So I fitted the new tyres, slightly narrower as expected but not that much in it and overall to me they looked and felt better more substantial tyres.

Then I started to think, well what am I going to miss by going to 2.35, everyones running 2.6, new bikes have 2.6 tyres, the bike world is mad for 2.6!!

So I rode the new tyres today, slippery muddy/leafy single track, plenty of slippery roots, a few drops and slippery uphill climbs. The tyres felt good, very good in fact. No problems and dare I say it a better feel than the Butcher 2.6s.

So what exactly am I missing here, granted I'm not riding steep downhill rocky mountains but the bike came with 2.6 tyres so I thought I might need 2.6 tyres....turns out I don't and Ive saved myself a few quid in the mix. I have front forks, I have a rear shock, do I need a few extra psi that a 2.6 can offer??

Someone put me in place and tell my 2.6 is what I need (or don't I'm not bothered, i'm just sharing my thoughts )

Good point. Perhaps it has something to do with personal preference or mybe some smaller tires dont fit properly on the same wheel? Dont know, maybe some just take the same stock size (2.6) because its easier or some just dont know better, like myself.

I personally havent tried anything else then the stock setup and cant really compare it to anything. Now its time to try something else so i started with a different tire, mybe i should have also tried a different size (2.4)? I wanted but i didnt. Thought that the torque on the rear wheel need a 2.6 to handle the power.

In the end, tires are a wearing part. Some stick to the same tire everytime, other try something else. It all comes down to personal preferences.

 

[Gary]

So can someone enlighten me to what I may be missing here...Are 2.6 tyres all that???

No.

infact certain manufacturers 2.6s you wouldn't tell from their previous 2.5s

it's just #fashion and all the manufacturers know they need to have a 2.6 in their line up to compete.

 

[lenny74]

Good point. Perhaps it has something to do with personal preference or mybe some smaller tires dont fit properly on the same wheel? Dont know, maybe some just take the same stock size (2.6) because its easier or some just dont know better, like myself.

I personally havent tried anything else then the stock setup and cant really compare it to anything. Now its time to try something else so i started with a different tire, mybe i should have also tried a different size (2.4)? I wanted but i didnt. Thought that the torque on the rear wheel need a 2.6 to handle the power.

In the end, tires are a wearing part. Some stick to the same tire everytime, other try something else. It all comes down to personal preferences.

A perfect response to my thoughts, the fact that you wanted to try something different but didn't.

By the way I don't know better either I generally am miffed by what differences these sizes may make.

It should always be personal preference but do we get led by thinking we need what we maybe don't.

 

[lenny74]

No.

infact certain manufacturers 2.6s you wouldn't tell from their previous 2.5s

it's just #fashion and all the manufacturers know they need to have a 2.6 in their line up to compete.

Thanks Gary, I have read all your posts on this matter and it is quite clear that a 2.6 never comes into your thinking or riding

 

[Krisj]

@Gary R8 dude have you tried or heard much on the kenda hellkats
I was thinking of giving them a try

 

[bekolu]

Minnion DHF 29" 2.5 at the rear

Is the DHF 2.5 as high as the Butcher 2.6 or do you have more space now between tyre and motor?

 

[Coastsider]

I live in California and mainly ride on loose dirt, forest soil, solid granite and rock gardens. I've always ran 2.8" MAXXIS Minions DHF/DHR, I've just swopped the front to a new MAXXIS 2.5" Aggressor and I'm liking it so far, waiting for the 2.8" to come out. I have 27.5" wheels, run tubeless with 19psi front and 22psi rear.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

No doubt 2.6 has been created to sell more tyres. I’ve tried 3”, 2.8”, 2.6”, 2.5”, and 2.4” on the Levo since 2018.

Currently running 2.5f 2.4r.

No need for the plus tyres now. I think that the tyre manufacturers enjoyed a couple of years of plus sales ?

I’m by no means a tyre tester but can see a marketing opportunity being exploited ??

 

[R120]

I agree with you Rob, but having said that the 2.6 MM's (DH Super soft) that i am currently running are the nutz, had them out today in some proper horrific conditions and never felt sketchy. Would be interesting to try them back to back with some 2.3

 

[Jeff McD]

I agree with you Rob, but having said that the 2.6 MM's (DH Super soft) that i am currently running are the nutz, had them out today in some proper horrific conditions and never felt sketchy. Would be interesting to try them back to back with some 2.3

Now that would be a proper comparison: same exact tire in those exact two sizes in the same horrific wet muddy slippery conditions. I hated the stock 2.8 tires, went to 2.5 DHF and now 2.4 DHR II and I have a feeling I'm going to eventually be comparing them to the old 2.3's on my 29 x 30 mm ID wheels. Every time I have gone to narrower tires I have liked the handling better.

 

[ikaramboo]

I ordered the Baron Project 4 in 2.6" for the rear.

Cant wait to give it a try. If the handling is good, i'll also switch to the Baron in the front.

Morning guys,

Need your opinion again?

I m getting the Baron Project 2.4 today in 2.6” as a replacement on my cube Action Team for the Nobby Nic in the rear.

Now I am thinking to put the Baron in 2.6” in the front and switch to a Continental Trail King in 2.4” in the back.

Is the 2.6 front and 2.4 rear advisable? Or better 2.4” front and rear with only the Baron?

Not sure what to do?‍

 

[lenny74]

Ive always gone with a slightly larger front tyre than I have at the rear as this always made the most sense to me for control at the front and rolling speed at the back etc.

I'm reading that people seem to think the opposite with an ebike as the back requires more traction because of the "power".... not convinced on this to be honest. On a motorbike this may be the case but surely not on an ebike.

I tried a 2.35 and 2.6 combo a few days ago whilst waiting for a new 2.35 rear tyre and to be honest the rear felt less controlled than I expected. It worked ok but felt far to big out back when you have a smaller front.

Best option is as always is to give it a go on your personal feeling and switch it out to try both methods.

Would like to hear how you go with it.

 

[Dwazzer]

Ive always gone with a slightly larger front tyre than I have at the rear as this always made the most sense to me for control at the front and rolling speed at the back etc.

I'm reading that people seem to think the opposite with an ebike as the back requires more traction because of the "power".... not convinced on this to be honest. On a motorbike this may be the case but surely not on an ebike.

I tried a 2.35 and 2.6 combo a few days ago whilst waiting for a new 2.35 rear tyre and to be honest the rear felt less controlled than I expected. It worked ok but felt far to big out back when you have a smaller front.

Best option is as always is to give it a go on your personal feeling and switch it out to try both methods.

Would like to hear how you go with it.

Tyre choice is SUCH a personal thing! I don't think anyone can say...'This is best', or 'you need to do this' without the full information on your riding style AND what you are riding on! Even then they can only give you the benefit of their experiences and preferences as you might discover things work differently for you

I am changing my front to a narrower Magic Mary, this is because I am in the lake district and also ride in Scotland...at this time of year, the ground is wet, loamy and generally slippy! I'm hoping a narrower tyre will help stop the front floating over the mud and give me more bite!

The wider rear makes sense in my head and for MY conditions/riding style and I might get a narrower tyre for the rear yet, but it'll be directed by trial & error and budget! Some people do prefer a nice 'loose' back end!

Obviously, advice about tyre pressures, compound, tread pattern and size are interesting and VERY helpful, based on peoples findings, and may help you get to the right tyre combination a little more quickly...

 

[JPag]

Having rode literally every manufacturer of tyre throughout the years I think a lot can be said for the mental aspect of it. Sometimes you can just loose confidence in a tyre.
With masses of info out there driven by the media choice can be a minefield. Generally I ride a stickier compound on the front with more volume and a narrower harder compound on the back but that's just my personal preference.
Recently I ran a minion dhf 2 double down 3c 2.5 on the front and found it superb.
Currently have a wtb convict tough high grip and find that great as well.

On a side note my father had lost a lot of confidence recently so bought home the 3c 2.8 minions and told him that they were amazing and would have grip for days especially at a lower pressure. Needless to say the seed was planted and he loves them.

 

[MarkH]

I'm mulling over tyre and wheel choice. Thinking of going 29 with probably 2.4s on the front of my 2018 Levo to get more bite in the wet but will probably stick with 2.8s on rear as happy for the arse end to stay a bit loose. Interested in any thoughts on running mixed sizes - especially on a small frame.

 

[ikaramboo]

I ordered the Baron Project 4 in 2.6" for the rear.

Cant wait to give it a try. If the handling is good, i'll also switch to the Baron in the front.

So funny story of a noob:
Yesterday i thought about changing my rear tire Nobby Nic for the Continental Baron and it was one hell of a experience! I am talking about the mounting process.

I believe i only changed once a tire so far and that was over 5 years ago. Never had a puncture so never fixed a tube. However yesterday was a trial and error day for me

The removal was ok, no pinching of the tube but the mounting process was such a pain in the ass. The Baron is such a bit**! Are all tires so hard to mount?

First i broke one tire lever and after ages i managed to mount the tire. I filled the tube and had a hole.
Removed the wheel, took out the tube and grabed my spare tube which i was carrying arount in my backpack for over a month. Then i noticed it was the wrong tube. (I think its a Schwalbe 19 and i need a 21F). Some fool sold me the wrong tube in the shop! Dooh!

So what, i repaired the whole (first time ever) and put the tupe back. Mounted the Baron (this bit**) again and guess what, next hole! So same procedure again. Then another hole.

Then finally with three repaired holes i managed to mount the tube and the tire! Yippie yippie yeah!

So glad this didnt happen on the trail.

Now i am considerung to switch to tubless. I wouldnt want to have these issues on a trail.

 

[R120]

With modern DH casing or similar tyres it’s worth going tubeless as trying to get them on or off, especially if a tube is in the mix too, on the trail is a proper PIA

 

[lenny74]

So funny story of a noob:
Yesterday i thought about changing my rear tire Nobby Nic for the Continental Baron and it was one hell of a experience! I am talking about the mounting process.

I believe i only changed once a tire so far and that was over 5 years ago. Never had a puncture so never fixed a tube. However yesterday was a trial and error day for me

The removal was ok, no pinching of the tube but the mounting process was such a pain in the ass. The Baron is such a bit**! Are all tires so hard to mount?

First i broke one tire lever and after ages i managed to mount the tire. I filled the tube and had a hole.
Removed the wheel, took out the tube and grabed my spare tube which i was carrying arount in my backpack for over a month. Then i noticed it was the wrong tube. (I think its a Schwalbe 19 and i need a 21F). Some fool sold me the wrong tube in the shop! Dooh!

So what, i repaired the whole (first time ever) and put the tupe back. Mounted the Baron (this bit**) again and guess what, next hole! So same procedure again. Then another hole.

Then finally with three repaired holes i managed to mount the tube and the tire! Yippie yippie yeah!

So glad this didnt happen on the trail.

Now i am considerung to switch to tubless. I wouldnt want to have these issues on a trail.

This story alone makes me wonder why anyone bothers with tubes these days. I personally think setting up tubeless tyres is far easier than fixing and replacing an inner tube these days.

With the right equipment (a decent Air Chamber Track Pump is a must) a tubeless set up and even a conversion to tubeless rims can be amazingly easy and I think once you have got over the initial steps of how things work I cant see why you shouldn't give it a go.

Consider no longer, do a bit of research, buy the bits you need and give it a try. Pretty sure you wont be disappointed.

 

[Gary]

With modern DH casing or similar tyres it’s worth going tubeless as trying to get them on or off, especially if a tube is in the mix too, on the trail is a proper PIA

Not if you know what you'r doing it isn't

Removal

• brake the bead from the rim all the way round
• fold the tyre to squeeze as much air out of the tube as possible
• push the valve in to the rim a little to free the space in the central channel
• push the tyre bead into the channel (right in the centre of the rim) all the way round
• the tyre bead will now be loose enough to pull it over the edge of the rim using your thumbs
• moving your two hands away from each other work the bead off all the way round - when you get half way the rest will pull off in one go
• if just replacing a tube leave the other bead mounted, remove punctured tube, check the inside of the tyre for protrusions, replace the tube as outlined in fitting instructions below.
  
  

Fitting​

​

• hook first tyre bead over the rim edge and into the central channel bit by bit starting with hands together until one bead is fully mounted in the rim
• place tube valve through the valve hole from the inside - DO NOT PUSH IT ALL THE WAY THROUGH
• next tuck the UNINFLATED tube right into the tyre all the way round
• push the bead over the rim edge making sure you push it right into the central channel
• continue pushing the bead over and into that channel while working your two hands away from each other
• if you have pushed the bead in properly as your hands meet you will be able to pop the last portion of bead over the rim using both thumbs
• PUT YOUR TYRE LEVERS AWAY SOMEWHERE SAFE AS YOU'LL NOW ONLY EVER NEED THEM WHEN YOU GO TUBELESS AND YOU WANT TO BREAK A SMALL PORTION OF BEAD FROM ONE PART OF THE RIM TO ADD SEALANT

 

[R120]

I don't disagree with you in theory Gary, and as with everything practice makes perfect, but removing a wired bead tyre/non folding trailside when its wet and muddy with cold hands is a right PITA.

 

[steve_sordy]

You must have very strong hands or smaller than usual rims. I do all of that, but I just cannot get the last bit of bead over the rim without levers. Some tyres are much more difficult to mount than others, but I've never had an easy one.

 

[R120]

For anyone thats interested, real world widths of Magic Mary 27.5 2.6 DH and a Maxis Minion DHF 2.5 3C/TR mounted on 30mm wide DT-Swiss M1900. Both tyres at 20 PSI:

 

[Gary]

You must have very strong hands or smaller than usual rims. I do all of that, but I just cannot get the last bit of bead over the rim without levers. Some tyres are much more difficult to mount than others, but I've never had an easy one.

I don't have weak thumbs
I have however changed 10000+ tyres/tubes in my lifetime and taught it for 18months
Following what I've outlined exactly you should NEVER need to use levers to FIT the bead. (hint: you probably didn't need them to fit the first bead). Not even with road tyres.

You either

1. haven't got the bead seated in the rim channel well enough
2. Have your tube/valve taking up bead well channel space
3. or your rim strip is too thick (replace cotton tape with 2 wraps of thin insualting tape or one wrap of tesa)
4. or you have on of the very few badly designed rims with not deep enough rim channel (I haven't seen a rim like this in years.
   
   
   My money's on #1AND #2 slim possiblity of #3

 

[Gary]

removing a wired bead tyre/non folding trailside when its wet and muddy with cold hands is a right PITA messy.

I agree, though folk generally aren't as adept at pushing the bead into the chanel properly or removing enough air from a tube and often forget basics like unseating the valve when stood outdoors in the cold/wet/dark/mud often surrounded by a bunch of pissed off or wose still "helpful" *sigh* friends.

 

[steve_sordy]

I'm already tubeless, so no issues with a tube and its valve.
The rim strip is minimal, and doesn't go anywhere near where the bead sits.
Recent designs.

So that leaves whether I'm ensuring the tyre beads are properly in the rim channel. I can get one side of the tyre in without much difficulty at all. As for the second, I ensure that the start of it is well in there, but once the tyre starts getting towards completion, it becomes more and more difficult. Maybe the tyre has moved, maybe I wasn't paying enough attention. I will do so next time!

 

[Gary]

Both beads are the exact same size. If you can get the first one on with no levers you can get the second on. make sure the first bead you mounted isn't stopping the second from sitting nicely in the rim channel

 

[nappa]

I agree with you Rob, but having said that the 2.6 MM's (DH Super soft) that i am currently running are the nutz, had them out today in some proper horrific conditions and never felt sketchy. Would be interesting to try them back to back with some 2.3

are you running these front and back?