What tyres? The Ultimate Tyre Thread

[urastus]

Why would people go for folding instead?

Originally, pre ebike, because they're lighter. I run a maxxis dhr evo - it's the lightest (and cheapest) 2.6 casing for the dhr, but I use a tannus insert. That's on the rear. Front is tubeless.

 

[carlbiker]

Just taken off my rear 2.8 DHR and changed it for a 2.3 SS. I’ve said it before on other threads but the DHR at 2.8 just felt far too grippy for me, slow, large & cumbersome. Chose the SS for the low rolling resistance and wanted the smallest width tyre available for my 35mm rim. It also seems to tick all the boxes for the varied terrain we ride. Also, when buying the Allmtn, I liked the appeal of the mullet set up for a playful rear end. It didn’t feel playful with a big fat grippy 2.8 tyre

Just went for a quick spin, admittedly only on tarmac and gravel paths around my neighbourhood , but it instantly felt a vast improvement. The bike feels properly balanced now with a wider 2.5 up front and a skinnier 2.3 at the rear. It never felt right having a wider tyre on the rear. Acceleration felt quicker, the ride feels firmer, and now I have a huge smile on my face

Of course the real test will be out on the trails on our weekend warrior adventures, can’t wait ???


View attachment 62402

The cleanliness of that bike gives me anxiety ?

 

[carlbiker]

Buy now while stocks last!

Ive ordered one, should have done two probably! My tyre stash of Mary’s and Betties also came which I’m passing onto others although I got stung 27% customs etc!

 

[Tubby G]

The cleanliness of that bike gives me anxiety ?

Two filthy bikes after riding both Saturday & Sunday

hose down, soap, rinse down, degrease, lube, finish with Vulcanet wipes. Easy

 

[carlbiker]

Two filthy bikes after riding both Saturday & Sunday

hose down, soap, rinse down, degrease, lube, finish with Vulcanet wipes. Easy

never heard of these wipes, might had to have a look.

Mine goes like rinse >soap > agitate > wash > brush > wash > dry with towels.....wash mud still there that’s dried.....ponder at why I can’t see reflection > wash more > wash more > if lucky looks clean enough to finish off relight that red can stuff > lube chain.....get annoyed that muds trapped under invisi tape and still see non clean bits ?

 

[1oldfart]

Are 29x2.6 my next love? In the past 5 years i loved
- 26x4.8 studded for snow/ice
- 27.5x3.0 on my Ebike
- 29x2.3 on my light crosscountry bike
I am curious about an Ebike on 29x2.6.

 

[urastus]

The cleanliness of that bike gives me anxiety ?

and bugger me - he's done a zimmer on the wheels and tyres too, check out the symmetry! It would be so easy to mess with his head . I'll start; the tyres arent quite matched up with the valves, and, yellow maxxis on one tyre, white maxxis on the other

 

[urastus]

By the way, I have a pair of WTB 27.5x2.6 tyres new and unused. They came on the bike I bought for my grandson and I swapped them out for narrower, lighter tyres.
WTB Vigilante 27.5x2.6 TCS Light High Grip
WTB Trail Boss 27.5x 2.6 TCS Light Fast Rolling
View attachment 62387
Vigilante on the right.

If anyone has an interest send me a private message.

They would work well on emtb with something like tannus

 

[Tubby G]

and bugger me - he's done a zimmer on the wheels and tyres too, check out the symmetry! It would be so easy to mess with his head . I'll start; the tyres arent quite matched up with the valves, and, yellow maxxis on one tyre, white maxxis on the other

Haha, stock tyre white logo, new tyre yellow logo. Couldn’t do much about that

Tyre that came off had valve under the X so put new tyre in same place thinking it would match, but it didn’t! Schoolboy error, well spotted ??

 

[Tubby G]

never heard of these wipes, might had to have a look.

Mine goes like rinse >soap > agitate > wash > brush > wash > dry with towels.....wash mud still there that’s dried.....ponder at why I can’t see reflection > wash more > wash more > if lucky looks clean enough to finish off relight that red can stuff > lube chain.....get annoyed that muds trapped under invisi tape and still see non clean bits ?

Vulcanet UK - Cleaning cloth for motorbikes - See

Vulcanet is the first complete wipe for cleaning and refurbishing all vehicles: cars, motorcycles and bicycles.

vulcanet.pro

Not cheap but worth every penny. Been using them for years on my motorbikes ??

 

[Kimmoi]

I guess I have found my final tire combination.
The grip is amazing and the behavior is completely logical in all circumstances. And especially the rear tire is bombproof.

There have never been such well-functioning tires on my bike.
There is not a single thing that i can think of what to complain. Rear is 1400grams, but nothing comes for free.
Reliability is big thing for me also. Just aim and shoot!

-Front 2.6 Specialized Butcher Grid Trail T9
-Rear 2.6 Specialized Eliminator Grid Gravity T7/T9

 

[carlbiker]

I’m going to use MM/BB for dh mud days and DHF/Nobby nics for faster rolling XC days, it’s a lot more practical using tubes instead of tubeless when swapping tyres as there isn’t the sealant to contend with but I was wondering if there are any 2.4-2.6 smart inner tubes with slime in etc that fill when punctured or if there’s another way to allow things to carry on once punctured?

 

[Jimbo Vills]

I’m going to use MM/BB for dh mud days and DHF/Nobby nics for faster rolling XC days, it’s a lot more practical using tubes instead of tubeless when swapping tyres as there isn’t the sealant to contend with but I was wondering if there are any 2.4-2.6 smart inner tubes with slime in etc that fill when punctured or if there’s another way to allow things to carry on once punctured?

that’s the problem, anything remotely rocky and fast = punctures with tubes in my experience

if I was that bothered about optimum tyres for conditions I’d get a cheap set of wheels for XC rides and swap the lot

 

[urastus]

I’m going to use MM/BB for dh mud days and DHF/Nobby nics for faster rolling XC days, it’s a lot more practical using tubes instead of tubeless when swapping tyres as there isn’t the sealant to contend with but I was wondering if there are any 2.4-2.6 smart inner tubes with slime in etc that fill when punctured or if there’s another way to allow things to carry on once punctured?

You're right. Tubes are also a better option for those who ride infrequently. I use a tannus insert in the rear - you can research them here. Basically use a smaller tube with the insert. I also get the lightest model tyre in what I want; for me that's maxxis dhrII 2.6 maxterra with an evo casing. I also use a lightweight tube. I've been running that in the rear for about six months on mostly hard rocky trails. A couple of small 5mm tears in the tyre, but it isn't a problem. I'm tubeless in the front with no drama there. If I didn't ride regularly I would just run a tube in the front; it's the original tyre with the light weight evo casing. I've been doing small jumps and drops too (50cm drops).

I find the tannus easy to mount; I just followed their instructions. I've swapped the rear around a few times now.

 

[Kimmoi]

I Have Huck Norris inserts in my current set. Tubes are not the option if you want ride fast, rocky terrain i.e.
There's been zero puncture since i started use tubeless(long time a go).
And i hope that with Huck Norris i'll have zero dents in my wheels.

 

[Rahr85]

I’m going to use MM/BB for dh mud days and DHF/Nobby nics for faster rolling XC days, it’s a lot more practical using tubes instead of tubeless when swapping tyres as there isn’t the sealant to contend with but I was wondering if there are any 2.4-2.6 smart inner tubes with slime in etc that fill when punctured or if there’s another way to allow things to carry on once punctured?

sounds like a lot of extra effort before setting off for a ride. If you are seriously considering running 2 sets of tyres you should probably just get a 2nd hand set of wheels for the more XC orientated rides. I had considered this approach but just don't like spending money on these kind of 1st world problems

 

[Jimbo Vills]

You're right. Tubes are also a better option for those who ride infrequently. I use a tannus insert in the rear - you can research them here. Basically use a smaller tube with the insert. I also get the lightest model tyre in what I want; for me that's maxxis dhrII 2.6 maxterra with an evo casing. I also use a lightweight tube. I've been running that in the rear for about six months on mostly hard rocky trails. A couple of small 5mm tears in the tyre, but it isn't a problem. I'm tubeless in the front with no drama there. If I didn't ride regularly I would just run a tube in the front; it's the original tyre with the light weight evo casing. I've been doing small jumps and drops too (50cm drops).

I find the tannus easy to mount; I just followed their instructions. I've swapped the rear around a few times now.

But lightweight tyre + tannus + tube is probably heavier than an DD casing which offers better protection from tears. And unlikely to get punctures?

the exo+ lighter still and more than likely to give enough protection

if you are running tubeless upfront with no issues then why not the rear also?

I’m not sure why frequency of rides has much to do with choice of tube or not?

im not saying you are wrong, if it works for you great, just intreagued with the logic

 

[Tubby G]

I’m going to use MM/BB for dh mud days and DHF/Nobby nics for faster rolling XC days, it’s a lot more practical using tubes instead of tubeless when swapping tyres as there isn’t the sealant to contend with but I was wondering if there are any 2.4-2.6 smart inner tubes with slime in etc that fill when punctured or if there’s another way to allow things to carry on once punctured?

Jeez that sounds like a right faff to me! My other half thinks I’m faffing when I do my pre ride checks and inflate my tyres to the correct psi. If I had to change the tyres before a ride she’d shoot me

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

I guess I have found my final tire combination.
The grip is amazing and the behavior is completely logical in all circumstances. And especially the rear tire is bombproof.

There have never been such well-functioning tires on my bike.
There is not a single thing that i can think of what to complain. Rear is 1400grams, but nothing comes for free.
Reliability is big thing for me also. Just aim and shoot!

-Front 2.6 Specialized Butcher Grid Trail T9
-Rear 2.6 Specialized Eliminator Grid Gravity T7/T9

View attachment 62491

That’s what I’m using. Great combo. These new Spesh tyres are pretty good so far.

 

[MrSimmo]

That’s what I’m using. Great combo. These new Spesh tyres are pretty good so far.

View attachment 62583

View attachment 62584

Rob how do they compare to the Assegais for rolling resistance and transition?

 

[carlbiker]

that’s the problem, anything remotely rocky and fast = punctures with tubes in my experience

if I was that bothered about optimum tyres for conditions I’d get a cheap set of wheels for XC rides and swap the lot

It’s not just wheels, you have discs on top in that case xyz. I’ve not checked yet but there are inserts to buy too I believe, if there’s slime tubes also then you won’t get punctured stopping your ride so best of both worlds isn’t it?

sure you can’t ride at 5psi but being able to change easily I think is good. Tubeless my wheel had to have an inner tube anyway to keep going so I’m not sure on the point of tubeless since then

 

[carlbiker]

You're right. Tubes are also a better option for those who ride infrequently. I use a tannus insert in the rear - you can research them here. Basically use a smaller tube with the insert. I also get the lightest model tyre in what I want; for me that's maxxis dhrII 2.6 maxterra with an evo casing. I also use a lightweight tube. I've been running that in the rear for about six months on mostly hard rocky trails. A couple of small 5mm tears in the tyre, but it isn't a problem. I'm tubeless in the front with no drama there. If I didn't ride regularly I would just run a tube in the front; it's the original tyre with the light weight evo casing. I've been doing small jumps and drops too (50cm drops).

I find the tannus easy to mount; I just followed their instructions. I've swapped the rear around a few times now.

Tannins cool I’ll check that ?

sounds like a lot of extra effort before setting off for a ride. If you are seriously considering running 2 sets of tyres you should probably just get a 2nd hand set of wheels for the more XC orientated rides. I had considered this approach but just don't like spending money on these kind of 1st world problems

I changed my first tyre without knowing what I was doing in minutes, couldn’t believe what all the fuss was about, shit myself with popping noises on inflation but it’s on perfectly fine now. I’ve just got my Nobby Nic, I’ve a ride at 12:15 and just about to bang it on, hopefully it’s as easy..if it’s a few mins job, well you could have a cup of tea and by time your done I’ve a new tyre on ?

Jeez that sounds like a right faff to me! My other half thinks I’m faffing when I do my pre ride checks and inflate my tyres to the correct psi. If I had to change the tyres before a ride she’d shoot me

I’ll let you know how it goes with the nobbys, the maxxis were a joke at how easy they were to get on, when it gets tight just push the tyre down into the bead and it slackens the last 10% up, assuming people thing it’s a nightmare but obviously I’d your tubeless it’s different and won’t be an option perhaps, not sure how sealent sits for long periods of time in a tyre

 

[Jimbo Vills]

It’s not just wheels, you have discs on top in that case xyz. I’ve not checked yet but there are inserts to buy too I believe, if there’s slime tubes also then you won’t get punctured stopping your ride so best of both worlds isn’t it?

sure you can’t ride at 5psi but being able to change easily I think is good. Tubeless my wheel had to have an inner tube anyway to keep going so I’m not sure on the point of tubeless since then

appreciate it’s not just the rims that are needed, but the agg factor of changing tyres all the time would soon wear thin with me.

I’ve never had a puncture since going tubeless, not sure why you would then need a tube?

personally, I’d just pick the tyres most suited for most of my riding and learn to adapt when they are not optimum.

it’s cool trying different tyres tho ??

 

[Tubby G]

Tannins cool I’ll check that ?






I changed my first tyre without knowing what I was doing in minutes, couldn’t believe what all the fuss was about, shit myself with popping noises on inflation but it’s on perfectly fine now. I’ve just got my Nobby Nic, I’ve a ride at 12:15 and just about to bang it on, hopefully it’s as easy..if it’s a few mins job, well you could have a cup of tea and by time your done I’ve a new tyre on ?




I’ll let you know how it goes with the nobbys, the maxxis were a joke at how easy they were to get on, when it gets tight just push the tyre down into the bead and it slackens the last 10% up, assuming people thing it’s a nightmare but obviously I’d your tubeless it’s different and won’t be an option perhaps, not sure how sealent sits for long periods of time in a tyre

Yes I run tubeless so cleaning the congealed sealant snot off each tyre bead between changes wouldn’t be an option, unless you enjoy that kind of thing!

 

[Dirtnvert]

I like that tannus liner with the small tube system idea but modern tubeless tires arent the easiest to swap constantly even with just a tube. Some go on ez but a lot are a royal pain, especially dh casing and also rim dependant. My deciy is a mullet and my enduro bike is a 9er that i also have a 27.5 rear wheel to mullet it for shuttle/park days. Enduro has lighter tires w tannus tubeless liners(traditional liner w sealant system/no tube) and i have dh casing tires with liners on the decoy. All rear wheels are 12spd w 203mm rotors and both front wheels will have 220mm rotors. I dont want to be fixing flats in any of these combos on the trail if i can avoid it. Having the right tire construction with liners hasnt left me in a "pinch" in quite a while. The tire liners have a good part in that and have paid their way 10 fold in saving rims and pinched tires.
Having said that my light tires are 1200g michelin dh 34 "bike park casing" because i like my tires to be able to ride the xc trails or dh trails. DH trails here are tocky, rooty , steep slabs and can be fast. So steep that i like to occasionally drop a couple psi and still have support in the tire. If im pedalling the enduro bike the "lighter" set works fine. If im doing multiple laps i want dh tires.
I havent tried cush core, mostly because weight and price and i think tannus tubeless will work as well or damn close. Ive been impressed with tannus tubeless liners. Better ride than vittoria and huck norris and waaay better ride than nukeproof ard. More sidewall support and smoother feel. All the liners have done their job as far as protection of the tire and rim. Huck mounts easier than the tannus but the tannus mounts easier than others and is the best performer.
Same with rear shocks. One coil and an air for big pedal days or a spare. Shit breaks, its nice to have spares. Speaking of which, stoke to replenish my brake pad stock with a 4pack of sintered nukeproof pads for 4pot shimanos.
Next is spesh gravity tires and vee rubber dh tires and shimano chain(s)

 

[Gary]

I havent tried cush core, mostly because weight and price and i think tannus tubeless will work as well or damn close. Ive been impressed with tannus tubeless liners. Better ride than vittoria and huck norris and waaay better ride than nukeproof ard. More sidewall support and smoother feel.

If you're impressed with the sidewall support of the tannus I think you'd find Cushcore to be at yet another level up from that perspective.

 

[Dirtnvert]

If you're impressed with the sidewall support of the tannus I think you'd find Cushcore to be at yet another level up from that perspective.

I definitely have to try some. Not sure when ill get a chance as all my wheels have tannus or vittoria atm. 11-1200g sidewalls have been durable enough for me, i just prefer the corner support of dh casing tires. I guess the question would be would a 1200g tire with cushcore measure up to a 1350g dh casing tire w tannus in cornering support?
I may try that comparison out front actually. Now that you get me thinking i want to throw my mich wr2 back on the front of my meta in place of the dh34 bp for comparisons sake. Good chance to try a cush core i think. And here i thought you were going to gaslight me Gary?

 

[carlbiker]

appreciate it’s not just the rims that are needed, but the agg factor of changing tyres all the time would soon wear thin with me.

I’ve never had a puncture since going tubeless, not sure why you would then need a tube?

personally, I’d just pick the tyres most suited for most of my riding and learn to adapt when they are not optimum.

it’s cool trying different tyres tho ??

I had to run a tube because I destroyed my DHR2.....might have been my own doing as I was enjoying full locked suspension mode going down some dh with Boulder jumps etc, it was dead after that....

Tyres are massively different, my rear Big Betty ultra soft is like having a wheel
made of 510 compound! It can’t slide it’s weird.....So for slippy Waincliffe were im off tomorrow it will be ideal, I still have DHF on the front and only have 2.6 big Betty for the front but I’ll be selling that so ideally no good to use atm (I’ve a MM 2.6 on the way)

I was wrong about tyre swapping fk me, the schwalbe are monsterous! Took an hour but I figured it out in the end, even getting 50/50 was hard! The maxxis I did without levels when I put them on......

Id hate this setup for XC so two sets makes sense at least for me who needs abit more grip whilst in learning phases, more traction = more braking control so I’m all for that!

What I will do is sit down for 4hrs getting them on and off, if I suffer a puncture on the tube I’ll need to be able to get at it. I’d prefer a second lot of wheels ofc but there like £150 for the wheel then the cassette/discs probably £500 in total, my other half will kick my ass soon!

 

[Zimmerframe]

I had to run a tube because I destroyed my DHR2.....might have been my own doing as I was enjoying full locked suspension mode going down some dh with Boulder jumps etc, it was dead after that....

Tyres are massively different, my rear Big Betty ultra soft is like having a wheel
made of 510 compound! It can’t slide it’s weird.....So for slippy Waincliffe were im off tomorrow it will be ideal, I still have DHF on the front and only have 2.6 big Betty for the front but I’ll be selling that so ideally no good to use atm (I’ve a MM 2.6 on the way)

I was wrong about tyre swapping fk me, the schwalbe are monsterous! Took an hour but I figured it out in the end, even getting 50/50 was hard! The maxxis I did without levels when I put them on......

Id hate this setup for XC so two sets makes sense at least for me who needs abit more grip whilst in learning phases, more traction = more braking control so I’m all for that!

What I will do is sit down for 4hrs getting them on and off, if I suffer a puncture on the tube I’ll need to be able to get at it. I’d prefer a second lot of wheels ofc but there like £150 for the wheel then the cassette/discs probably £500 in total, my other half will kick my ass soon!

Carl stop pi55ing about like a pauper .. everyone knows no one swaps wheels, just have two bikes ! (tell her one is for her)

 

[Tubby G]

Carl stop pi55ing about like a pauper .. everyone knows no one swaps wheels, just have two bikes ! (tell her one is for her)

You beat me to it Zimms I was just about to say it sounds like the best excuse ever for another bike, or two