What tyres? The Ultimate Tyre Thread

[Zimmerframe]

another bike, or two

Oooh .. I like it , explain the man math ?

Personally I agree and always adhere to the rule of 3.

 

[Tubby G]

Oooh .. I like it , explain the man math ?

Personally I agree and always adhere to the rule of 3.

Easy, a downhill bike, a trail bike, and one for the Mrs ?

 

[urastus]

Carl stop pi55ing about like a pauper .. everyone knows no one swaps wheels, just have two bikes ! (tell her one is for her)

You're so good at seeing the angles It's logical too, which is weird

 

[Zimmerframe]

You're so good at seeing the angles It's logical too, which is weird

I guess you could go the other way too.

"Is that a new bike, I thought you were just buying wheels ?"
"I did, they came with a wheel holder."

 

[urastus]

I guess you could go the other way too.

"Is that a new bike, I thought you were just buying wheels ?"
"I did, they came with a wheel holder."

Or "it was a wheely good deal!"

 

[Ricky_1973]

Posted this on another thread about my Maxxis Agressor experience thus far:

I was/am running my cube stereo hybrid 160 2021 tubeless with Maxxis Assegai front on 1.1 bar (16psi) and Minion DH II on 1.3 bar(18psi) rear. All works well - I've replaced the rear with an Maxxis Agressor and noticed directly that the rear wasn't as stiff as the Minion due to its sidewall difference. I've raised the rear to 1.4 bar(20psi) and found my sweetspot again.

I used to ride with +.04 bars(compared to the above) with tubes on the first set of tires (assegai and minion) and slowly worked out that releasing pressure brings (way) more grip. After I went tubeless I started over with finding the right setting for me. I also noticed that the Agressor is a fine tire for gravel and sand, but when mud comes into play or terrain get really hard and rocky I sure mis the minion on the rear.

 

[1oldfart]

Posted this on another thread about my Maxxis Agressor experience thus far:

I was/am running my cube stereo hybrid 160 2021 tubeless with Maxxis Assegai front on 1.1 bar (16psi) and Minion DH II on 1.3 bar(18psi) rear. All works well - I've replaced the rear with an Maxxis Agressor and noticed directly that the rear wasn't as stiff as the Minion due to its sidewall difference. I've raised the rear to 1.4 bar(20psi) and found my sweetspot again.

I used to ride with +.04 bars(compared to the above) with tubes on the first set of tires (assegai and minion) and slowly worked out that releasing pressure brings (way) more grip. After I went tubeless I started over with finding the right setting for me. I also noticed that the Agressor is a fine tire for gravel and sand, but when mud comes into play or terrain get really hard and rocky I sure mis the minion on the rear.

Thanks for your input. Soon i should get my new bike with an agressor 29x2.6(rear) and you are not the first writing about it. I might switch it to an assegai or what i can find to work on dry and wet.

 

[Dirtnvert]

Mount the cush core up on a rainy day this weekend on the enduro bike and put these grid gravity casing 2.6's on the decoy in a couple weeks. Had them in stock at the lbs so figure i better stock up for bike park opening ??

 

[carlbiker]

Hmmmm I was wrong about the ‘ease’ of swapping tyres, maxxis a child could do (even I did it without levers) but it was used so maybe a new maxxis would have been different but the Big Betty was a mare shooting my tyre swap theory out of the water ?.....

20 minutes to remove the Big Betty....probably another 25 mins to get the Nobby Nic on......I sadly was delusional, although part of me still thinks of Maxxis

But then, Maxxis have banana peel sidewalls and a little bit shit, people do crazy things like add inserts and need to perform even further surgical miracles and then a friend of mine managed to make his tyre explode using inserts

For now, I’ll stick to Schwalbe with the sidewalls swordfish cant penetrate! ?

Big Betty Ultra grip is almost too grippy but for shit yourself dh grip it’s welcome, Nobby nics are great for mixed uses.

I went to Hebden Bridge and had an epic OTB moment, my first since my bad tree mating event but this time I planned the OTB strategy so when I was mid flight I landed on my feet and moved into a commando roll and stood up with a ta daaaa kind of moment!

Sadly it was literally the first dh section also but I managed to survive the rest! That said I’ve never seen so many mini rock drops over and over.....they just kept comin

Now I’m blaming my suspension for it (zero tokens and rock 35), my brakes work I think ?

 

[carlbiker]

random question:

which front tyre:

Original DHF 29x2.6
New MM 2.4
New Big Betty 2.6

Ive a 2.4 Big Betty and 2.4 Nobby Nic for the rear I’ll swap depending on days but I’m not sure what happens ride wise by using 2.4 on the front, I’m guessing less roll resistance and less traction?

Wonder if BB 2.6 front and MM 2.4 on the back is a thing I know it’s wrong way around in terms of roll resistance

 

[Dirtnvert]

random question:

which front tyre:

Original DHF 29x2.6
New MM 2.4
New Big Betty 2.6

Ive a 2.4 Big Betty and 2.4 Nobby Nic for the rear I’ll swap depending on days but I’m not sure what happens ride wise by using 2.4 on the front, I’m guessing less roll resistance and less traction?

Wonder if BB 2.6 front and MM 2.4 on the back is a thing I know it’s wrong way around in terms of roll resistance

Dry id take the dhf, loam or deep dusrt where you need braking the big bettuy brakes and is very predictable, mm if itll be wet and or deep dust. I have my 2.6 on a 30mm imner rim. I think itd be even better on a 35mm inner. It was a risk putting it on the front but its been great edgy but not super edgy but very predictable. I think the 35mm inner w the 2.6 would make it more edgy. Hope to test that theory first then possibly trim a couple mm's off the outer most center knobs/transition knobs, dont think ill have to go there. Ive been stuffing it into corners without a worry

 

[Dirtnvert]

Hmmmm I was wrong about the ‘ease’ of swapping tyres, maxxis a child could do (even I did it without levers) but it was used so maybe a new maxxis would have been different but the Big Betty was a mare shooting my tyre swap theory out of the water ?.....

20 minutes to remove the Big Betty....probably another 25 mins to get the Nobby Nic on......I sadly was delusional, although part of me still thinks of Maxxis

But then, Maxxis have banana peel sidewalls and a little bit shit, people do crazy things like add inserts and need to perform even further surgical miracles and then a friend of mine managed to make his tyre explode using inserts

For now, I’ll stick to Schwalbe with the sidewalls swordfish cant penetrate! ?

Big Betty Ultra grip is almost too grippy but for shit yourself dh grip it’s welcome, Nobby nics are great for mixed uses, I went to Hebden Bridge and had an epic OTB moment, my first since my bad tree mating event but this time I planned the OTB strategy so when I was mid flight I landed on my feet and moved into a commando roll and stood up with a ta daaaa kind of moment!

Sadly it was literally the first dh section also but I managed to survive the rest! That said I’ve never seen so many mini rock drops over and over.....they just kept comin

Now I’m blaming my suspension for it (zero tokens and rock 35), my brakes work I think ?

Bead tightness varys a lot between different tires, even among the same tire models. Bead manuffacturing tolerance definitely isnt an exact science

 

[Gary]

and neither is rim well depth/shape
struggling for ages with tyre removal/fitting is nearly always down to poor technique

There's also absolutely nothing wrong with running a 35 with zero tokens. it'll simply have a more linear spring curve. Set sag correctly to achive almost full travel on big hits and it'll have plenty support and stability.

 

[Gary]

Random question:

which front tyre:

Original DHF 29x2.6
New MM 2.4
New Big Betty 2.6

Don't discount a DHRII Same good cornering grip as the DHF but massively better braking performance
MagicMary has higher grip in damp/wet conditions but corners and lets go slighty differently

 

[carlbiker]

and neither is rim well depth/shape
struggling for ages with tyre removal/fitting is nearly always down to poor technique

There's also absolutely nothing wrong with running a 35 with zero tokens. it'll simply have a more linear spring curve. Set sag correctly to achive almost full travel on big hits and it'll have plenty support and stability.

After hopefully replacing the chain/cassette I’ll be getting the shockwiz connected and seeing how that works, I tried someone’s Orbea Wild with Fox 38 and it was way less punishing, actually he tried mine and said it was discouraging, I like the raw bumpy stuff to a point but would be nice for my eye balls to have a chance of maintaining an eye line, might even have a chance of spotting a line ?

 

[carlbiker]

Don't discount a DHRII Same good cornering grip as the DHF but massively better braking performance
MagicMary has higher grip in damp/wet conditions but corners and lets go slighty differently

youd have no reservation over a 2.4 Mary on the front instead of a 2.6 like everyone seems adamant on?

 

[Gary]

I’ll be getting the shockwiz connected and seeing how that works

Don't bother. Read the suspension set up guide I posted at the top of this board

I'm running a 2.35 mary up front

The 2.6 tyre fad can GTF

 

[carlbiker]

Don't bother. Read the suspension set up guide I posted at the top of this board

I'm running a 2.35 mary up front

The 2.6 tyre fad can GTF

Can you put it into a spreadsheet?? it’s abit cognitive overload for me ?

I’m just getting this new cassette/chain on,hopefully cures this horrible crunching sound I’m getting them I’ll be onto the sus next, then tyre last....I might just whack the 2.4 Mary up front ?

 

[urastus]

into a commando roll and stood up

Yeah the commando roll is awesome; I'm still working on the standing up bit at the end

 

[RustyIron]

On my Acoustic-Bike, I'm always concerned about running tires that provide good traction, reasonable weight, and good rolling resistance. On the E-Bike, all I care about is traction. How cool is that? I'm currently running DHR and DHF, which is GREAT. They were pretty awful when my legs had to provide all the power.

 

[carlbiker]

On my Acoustic-Bike, I'm always concerned about running tires that provide good traction, reasonable weight, and good rolling resistance. On the E-Bike, all I care about is traction. How cool is that? I'm currently running DHR and DHF, which is GREAT. They were pretty awful when my legs had to provide all the power.

What’s your average KM ride?

Ebikes don’t cancel out the performance of a good rolling tyre; instead of draining your human battery it drains your bikes battery so on XC maybe a Big Betty would suck where’s a Nobby Nic may do better. I know people who have had Eddie’s and had to change as there normal route weren’t possible anymore. I run a poor mans battery so it’s something I have to factor in.

I’ve had a DHR which I destroyed on XC rock gardens (I did have suspension locked in though for the extra speed ?) so I’ve opted to change, Maxxis do roll amazingly well though, I’ll miss that.

It would be interesting to see some actual tests carried out on roll resistance a little more. I did once see a guy test some tyres but he compares the XC tyres to the stuff we buy and he was blown away at how much faster he could ride uphil and the greater roll performance he had.

 

[1oldfart]

What’s your average KM ride?

Ebikes don’t cancel out the performance of a good rolling tyre; instead of draining your human battery it drains your bikes battery so on XC maybe a Big Betty would suck where’s a Nobby Nic may do better. I know people who have had Eddie’s and had to change as there normal route weren’t possible anymore. I run a poor mans battery so it’s something I have to factor in.

I’ve had a DHR which I destroyed on XC rock gardens (I did have suspension locked in though for the extra speed ?) so I’ve opted to change, Maxxis do roll amazingly well though, I’ll miss that.

It would be interesting to see some actual tests carried out on roll resistance a little more. I did once see a guy test some tyres but he compares the XC tyres to the stuff we buy and he was blown away at how much faster he could ride uphil and the greater roll performance he had.

It is obvious we are all different so i can only share my experience.
11 months ago i bought a new 2020 Giant Stance E +, it was on 2 27.5x2.6 Maxxis Rekon,
35mm rims so after some months i switched to 3.0. Before i bought it i had checked, i knew
the frame and fork had that option opened. For where i ride the 3.0 were an improvement.
The 400Wh was enough for my needs, i am a light rider and not focussed on speed.
I can recommand the Rekon for rear, good roller and with 3cMaxTerra enough grip to climb.
Next week i should get my new 2021 Trance E on 29x2.6. It also has room and i might
find me some 2.8 just to clear most of the nasty rocks i deal with. The new 625Wh will
be plenty so the rolling is not going to be on the top of my list.
Instead of using middle assist, 3 lights i might use 4 and the winter cold less energy
will not be a problem. For me the rolling factor is one point but also the acceleration.
I can ride for hours but my power is under average. I would never use heavy tires on my
other bikes but with some assist i can test and see if i enjoy them.
I am a bit surprised not to read more about 2.8 and 3.0 tires on assist bikes.
I kind of feel people just buy the *new thing* . . . whatever and for now 2.6 are the flavor of the month.

 

[carlbiker]

It is obvious we are all different so i can only share my experience.
11 months ago i bought a new 2020 Giant Stance E +, it was on 2 27.5x2.6 Maxxis Rekon,
35mm rims so after some months i switched to 3.0. Before i bought it i had checked, i knew
the frame and fork had that option opened. For where i ride the 3.0 were an improvement.
The 400Wh was enough for my needs, i am a light rider and not focussed on speed.
I can recommand the Rekon for rear, good roller and with 3cMaxTerra enough grip to climb.
Next week i should get my new 2021 Trance E on 29x2.6. It also has room and i might
find me some 2.8 just to clear most of the nasty rocks i deal with. The new 625Wh will
be plenty so the rolling is not going to be on the top of my list.
Instead of using middle assist, 3 lights i might use 4 and the winter cold less energy
will not be a problem. For me the rolling factor is one point but also the acceleration.
I can ride for hours but my power is under average. I would never use heavy tires on my
other bikes but with some assist i can test and see if i enjoy them.
I am a bit surprised not to read more about 2.8 and 3.0 tires on assist bikes.
I kind of feel people just buy the *new thing* . . . whatever and for now 2.6 are the flavor of the month.

From what I gather 2.6 isn’t a *new thing* they’ve been around for years. Here is a comparison written in 2017 using Reckon tyres 2.6 vs 2.8 and the 2.6 was more favourable.

How 2.6” killed the "plus" tire - Canadian Cycling Magazine

It's Maxxis vs. Maxxis in our head to head shootout

cyclingmagazine.ca

according to the above the 2.8 have these cons:

- Poor rebound
- Poorer steering
- poorer cornering.
- thinner sidewalls (beware rocks)

The conclusion here was the 2.6 retained any of the 2.8 without any of the negatives.

 

[1oldfart]

From what I gather 2.6 isn’t a *new thing* they’ve been around for years. Here is a comparison written in 2017 using Reckon tyres 2.6 vs 2.8 and the 2.6 was more favourable.

How 2.6” killed the "plus" tire - Canadian Cycling Magazine

It's Maxxis vs. Maxxis in our head to head shootout

cyclingmagazine.ca

according to the above the 2.8 have these cons:

- Poor rebound
- Poorer steering
- poorer cornering.
- thinner sidewalls (beware rocks)

The conclusion here was the 2.6 retained any of the 2.8 without any of the negatives.

I am not saying you are wrong. In Quebec, Canada going back to 2017 new bikes delivered on 2.6
was not as common as last year or this year.
You have to remember many magazines and websites are meant to generate profits.
A **reviewer** that talks against a big source of income(buyer of advertising) knows well
he will loose his job.
I used the similar Rekons on 2.8 and 2.6 on the same trails, same conditions, same weather,
bike etc for 3 months on the 2.6 and 2 months on the 2.8 and there was a good advantage
on the 2.8. Later on some Specialized 3.0 the riding was better.
Maybe a 200 pounds rider focussing on speed prefer a different tire than i do and
i am not contesting that.
I just mean trusting reviews available on websites and magazines is not what i do.
I read in 2016 a review on 10 snow tires for fats.
It was a total joke, the Bud/Lou was not mentioned and in our area
most experienced riders agreed they were the best.
I bought some and i am very glad i did trust riders not so called
***reviewers*** who are basicaly advertisers.
I am curious, i test and play with my PSI and when dialed the + tires are not a problem for me.

 

[Randy]

Im a few weeks into the new Michelin am wild/force combo… I suspect this might become a new favourite rubber setup. I’ve been a year with a dhf front and various rears and this setup seems more confidence inspiring, predictable and rolls well enough too. The dhf was good but I don’t share Gary’s enthusiasm for the ‘drift zone’ and the Michelin seems more akin to an mm in its behaviour with a bit less drag. On 2.6 atm, next tyre swap I think I’ll do the same tyre in a 2.4

 

[carlbiker]

I am not saying you are wrong. In Quebec, Canada going back to 2017 new bikes delivered on 2.6
was not as common as last year or this year.
You have to remember many magazines and websites are meant to generate profits.
A **reviewer** that talks against a big source of income(buyer of advertising) knows well
he will loose his job.
I used the similar Rekons on 2.8 and 2.6 on the same trails, same conditions, same weather,
bike etc for 3 months on the 2.6 and 2 months on the 2.8 and there was a good advantage
on the 2.8. Later on some Specialized 3.0 the riding was better.
Maybe a 200 pounds rider focussing on speed prefer a different tire than i do and
i am not contesting that.
I just mean trusting reviews available on websites and magazines is not what i do.
I read in 2016 a review on 10 snow tires for fats.
It was a total joke, the Bud/Lou was not mentioned and in our area
most experienced riders agreed they were the best.
I bought some and i am very glad i did trust riders not so called
***reviewers*** who are basicaly advertisers.
I am curious, i test and play with my PSI and when dialed the + tires are not a problem for me.

It sounds that for your use the + tyres might be working well and if your getting used to it then it doesn’t matter what might be better in theory, if its working it’s working ?

You won’t be alone in having sceptism regarding reviews, many of them need to endorse products to earn a living and be of appeal to sponsors who have to trust the review isn’t going to hurt their business but that gives an opportunity for an impartial entity to pop up if one can afford it, I’m not sure they exist really...I’ve seen plenty of eye brow raising youtubers for example saying stuff like eddy tyres are there new stock tyre yet I know a few who have tried and found they totally sap the battery etc and are a little cumbersome/heavy even for ebikes yet said reviewer was saying the rolling was ‘amazing’....

That said we can’t just dismiss reviews, we also can’t just go off people’s experiences either as it’s all subjective, just like me calling a trail black and you calling it red kind of thing.....there all just parts of the puzzle really but when you consult various sources and they’re consistent then generally it’s right. Ive seen/read enough to dismiss the 2.8, 95% ride 2.35 - 2.6 very very well....

Now if you can tell me 2.8 stop my bike being rubbish then I’ll buy tonight ?

 

[carlbiker]

Interestingly I was sceptical about 2.4 vs 2.6 sizing, like was there such a difference and then I saw the packaging, so maybe not so much the tyre size but what’s in the tyre, my good lord!

The ‘big’ one on the left is a Super DH big Betty 29 x 2.4 and the right is BB super trail 29 x 2.6. The DH has 6 layers, if this ever punctures then I’ll be impressed as I’ve maybe actually tried proper mountain biking ?

 

[1oldfart]

Up north for 5 years i have been on 4.8, 3.8, 3.0, 2.8 and zero bouncing.
So maybe i am a lucky 140 pounder because i read more than ounce
about bouncing problems.
I like buying used bikes so the experience i share is not about a week end test
but spending 1 month or more on some bike, tires and being retired i ride
most days. I am not fast but i enjoy it.
It would be cool if next year the trend would be green tires.

 

[1oldfart]

Do you rotate tires? I am expecting a new 2021 Trance on 29x2.6.
It will have a front Assegai and not enough grip for my preference on rear.
I am thinking of a few options for replacing the rear(Assegai, Nobby Nic, Downhill front).
My idea is when the rear will need more traction(in 10 months?) i will buy a front and
put my front in the rear. I know some prefer more rolling for the rear but to climb i enjoy grip.
Looking for all weather(wet/dry), all around tire so if you have a suggestion it is welcome in 29
i am ok with 2.6 or 2.8.

 

[carlbiker]

Do you rotate tires? I am expecting a new 2021 Trance on 29x2.6.
It will have a front Assegai and not enough grip for my preference on rear.
I am thinking of a few options for replacing the rear(Assegai, Nobby Nic, Downhill front).
My idea is when the rear will need more traction(in 10 months?) i will buy a front and
put my front in the rear. I know some prefer more rolling for the rear but to climb i enjoy grip.
Looking for all weather(wet/dry), all around tire so if you have a suggestion it is welcome in 29
i am ok with 2.6 or 2.8.

Roll resistance is very real, I’ve seen videos where someone shaved off loads of time on uphill climbs, the tyres look bald in comparison to the monster truck ones we use with their smaller profile but I imagine they still do a job, be worth testing.

Your Assegai is probably a great all year tyre, sounds like a gripper but more roll resistance tyre rather than the DHF (I have this but replacing) that is better in corners.

I have tyres to rotate and quite weirdly enjoy switching them for different days, it’s good practice for when shit hits the fan on the trail, funnily enough I only just recently watched a video where two guys went riding and had to abandon as they couldn’t get the tyre on/off properly and wasted a bunch of co2 cans. The guy did zero maintenance and was likely to be changing inner tubes without really practicing, they took it to a shop and they used the technique I had to use which was on that last bit you have to bend the tyre over the opposite way completely and then it pops in!

It’s really hard to compare tyres, oranges and apples and peoples views are subjective; I think personal experience and testing wins here but that’s tricky unless you can take like 8 sets of wheels with different tyres out to have a proper go on the same day and setup some tests. Some have done those kinds of studies like here

Update: The best mountain bike tire – the most important models in review

Schwalbe, MAXXIS, Continental, Michelin, WTB, Kenda… The range of mountain bike tires on offer is huge and sometimes confusing. We tested more than 50 tires and although we couldn’t agree on a clear favourite, we can tell you how to find the perfect tire to suit you and your bike. Table of...

enduro-mtb.com

and then a couple other reviews I found here were alright:

Best mountain bike tyres: reviewed and rated - MBR

Ultimate grip? Fastest rolling speed? Ride in sand? Rocks? Or loam? Here are the eight best mountain bike tyres for you and your trails.

www.mbr.co.uk

Best mountain bike tyres in 2023 | Top-rated tyres for XC, downcountry, trail and enduro riding

Our pick of the best mountain bike tyres for trail, enduro and downhill riding

www.bikeradar.com

I can’t really recommend, I’m also a baby in the sport still but I can vouch for Schwable, I’ve had the BB ultra soft on the rear and that grip was like 510 sticky rubber, I’m not even exaggerating there; I could not make my rear skid out!

I’ve also put the Nobby Nic to the test, everything felt perfectly fine, I still have the DHF on but I just ordered a Magic Mary Supertrail because of the decent weather we should be getting in the UK now, it’s 2.4 for the front (can’t buy a magic mary 2.6 for love of money anymore!).

If you’re mainly dry, some rocky bits and a few climbs then If it’s durability Schwable get my vote, the 4 layer ones start to add in the extra puncture resistant stuff.

I’d have a go at:

Front - Magic Mary (check the comparison chart on which one you’d like) id say supertrail is the best mix overall, total grip then the purple strip but otherwise try the others

Rear - Nobby Nic, Rock Razer, Hans Dampf

I know you’re thinking grip but roll resistance will make it harder to pedal so will suck the bike battery and your energy and what we don’t need is more drag.....I ran out of juice once and I should be grateful I had DHF/R on....but then had I had proper XC tyres instead maybe life would have been easier

So to pick the tyres for both style and roll resistance you can check these two:

and

Schwalbe Tyre Guide | Tredz Bikes

With puncture protection, grippy rubber compounds and tread patterns designed for different surfaces, Click here to read our guide to Schwalbe tyres

www.tredz.co.uk

the above tredz guide advises more than Schwable own site on there tyres, stuff like snakeskin tyres are the DD (double down) for example, these make Maxxis tyres feel like banana skins in comparison!

I hunted down the video Id seen a while ago, if Maxxis is an option he recommends a couple options at the end also shows the value of a faster rolling tyre


faster rolling your also off faster, it just sounds like a lot more fun, I’ve a deposit on an Orbea Rise In July that comes with Rekon tyres which I’m happy to test and see