- Thread starter
- #301
Only had a brief look, but can’t find a huge amount of 29” 2.6 tyres for the 2019 Levo. Ideally a stiffer sidewall.
What tyres? The Ultimate Tyre Thread
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
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- magic mary tyres vigilante
MartinW148
Member
I'm currently running the original Maxxis Rekon+ the bike came with. I'm guessing as they aren't on the site they are now an obsolete tyre.
Looking at the Minion DHF as a replacement, local trial is mostly gravel over hard pack.
Schwalbe Eddy Currents, with a Super Gravity casing ?
Not good if you are into light weight tyres though....
I am going to say.... I hate plus size/ big tyres! My merida 160 came with maxis 2.8 on 27.5. I've swapped them to magic mary 2.35s and it's a weapon! Run about 20 - 24psi depending on where I'm riding. They roll well, which aids speed and range. And give way more feedback than big tyres. Far more predictable ride!
MartinW148
Member
How's the grip compared to the plus tyres?
My local trial has a lot of gravel which I have found deadly in the past on fast sections (on narrower tyres)
Yes narrower tyres dont cope as well with smaller stones and gravel. But I don't find it enough of a disadvantage to not use the narrower tyres. The advantages far outweigh the disadvantages in my eyes.
Bear in mind this is on a 170mm front /160mm rear travel bike.
I would say that on a 140mm bike that 2.35 might be a tad small. There's enough travel on a 160mm bike to compensate for the smaller tyre.
I personally love them, as there's no other mid point option on the market. If they made a magic mary in 2.5 orange compound I think that would be the sweet spot.
MartinW148
Member
140/150mm travel for me and yes I think a 2.5/2.6 tyre would be ideal.... maybe I will try these out come replacement time.
The only decent 2.6 tyres out at the moment are magic mary but they only do them in the ultra soft compound which is way too soft and heavy tyres. (I've got them on my levo at rhe moment). Or the specialized butcher grids. But I'm not sure on those.
The 2.35s are on my merida e160 800 which has a higher bottom bkt than the levo so I can swap to smaller tyres without having pedal strike problems.
Wish schwalbe would be 2.5s! ?
Hillbilly's are basically Spesh's Shorty/MM
Just bought these for a faster rolling tyre on my e bike as its main use is gravel paths' woodland paths and tarmac.
Maxxis Ardent Race MTB Tyre - EXO - TR - 3C | Chain Reaction Cycles
Bought some continental inner tubes to put into them too or may take to LBS and get made tubeless but it will cost around £60 for that.
I got the single ply version for £29.99 each with a 55% saving. Anyone know if I've made the right choice haha. Going on a Vitus e sentier.
Maxxis Ardent Race MTB Tyre - EXO - TR - 3C | Chain Reaction Cycles
Bought some continental inner tubes to put into them too or may take to LBS and get made tubeless but it will cost around £60 for that.
I got the single ply version for £29.99 each with a 55% saving. Anyone know if I've made the right choice haha. Going on a Vitus e sentier.
Should be far better @Bongofish
3C used to be Maxxis' softest grippiest slowest rolling compound. But they've changed their branding terminology a few times since then. I've never heard of 3C MAX Speed. Hopefully it's a triple compound of harder faster rolling durometer rubbers.
Ideally for good rolling you want a harder 70a durometer centre tread but 60a is still pretty fast rolling too. The lower the number the softer the rubber. DH racing tyres are in the 38-42 ballpark and offer the most grip but slowest rlling. IMO no one who isn't racing DH should be even thinking about using a DH compound. But that's just me.
Dual compound is what I use rear. It's Maxxis fastest rolling compound. and it's 70a centre tread with 60a shoulder/edge knobs. There's not a DH section in the UK I wouldn't ride on one.
3C used to be Maxxis' softest grippiest slowest rolling compound. But they've changed their branding terminology a few times since then. I've never heard of 3C MAX Speed. Hopefully it's a triple compound of harder faster rolling durometer rubbers.
Ideally for good rolling you want a harder 70a durometer centre tread but 60a is still pretty fast rolling too. The lower the number the softer the rubber. DH racing tyres are in the 38-42 ballpark and offer the most grip but slowest rlling. IMO no one who isn't racing DH should be even thinking about using a DH compound. But that's just me.
Dual compound is what I use rear. It's Maxxis fastest rolling compound. and it's 70a centre tread with 60a shoulder/edge knobs. There's not a DH section in the UK I wouldn't ride on one.
Last edited:
Yesterday I rode with an emtb rider (Paul from here) for the first time. We rode the same route exactly, riding all the flat and climbs at the same pace and I used half the battery he did. (down to me not using the assist at all on the flat (off) and only really using eco on the climbs with a tiny 10sec of trail for one steeper rockstrewn section of the climb. And also due to me running much faster rolling higher durometer tyres. Later on after our ride I had a quick car park go on his bike and with the motor off it felt like pedalling through treacle. his bike also felt considerably heavier then mine (horrible to bunny hop). The main difference being our tyres.
Later the same day I took my bike to Glentress and rode 2 laps with my Emtb switched off for the entire time. (I was riding with non-ebikes). There's no way I could or would have wanted to do that with a DH racing compound or a thick heavy DH casing.
Folk say weight and rolling resistance doesn't matter so much on an Ebike. I disagree. I think it actually matters even more.
Later the same day I took my bike to Glentress and rode 2 laps with my Emtb switched off for the entire time. (I was riding with non-ebikes). There's no way I could or would have wanted to do that with a DH racing compound or a thick heavy DH casing.
Folk say weight and rolling resistance doesn't matter so much on an Ebike. I disagree. I think it actually matters even more.
I agree.
Right, now that everyone has recovered...
Wheels are the worst place to have excess weight, apart from the rider.
They are unsprung mass, effecting suspension.
They are rotating mass, effecting handling.
They are accelerated mass, effecting power usage.
I’m at the wrong end of the rider weight scale to be running super light wheels but if I wasn’t it would be the first place I looked to reduce weight.
I don't run super light anything. Luckily enough the rims on my Vitus were a nice sensible weight/strength
500-540g is usually about my sweetspot, tiny bit more for a DH rim.
500-540g is usually about my sweetspot, tiny bit more for a DH rim.
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
I have just put one of the new Hans Dampf 2.6 with Apex reinforcement and Speed (hardest Schwalbe) compound on the back. Not ridden it yet but already have a 2.6 Soft Apex MM on the front. I think that will be the sweet spot for me, I've ripped too many Exo Maxxis tyres in the last few years, they don't seem to be as durable as in the past
I agree 100% I had 2.35s on my 29er levo. Then swapped back to 2.6 magic mary dh super tacky on 650b. This was the worst decision! They are awful in more ways than they are good. Rolling resistance massively affected battery life and the way the bike rode between flatter sections. And they are heavy! I'm going to swap to 2.35s and shorter crank armsI agree.
Right, now that everyone has recovered...
Wheels are the worst place to have excess weight, apart from the rider.
They are unsprung mass, effecting suspension.
They are rotating mass, effecting handling.
They are accelerated mass, effecting power usage.
I’m at the wrong end of the rider weight scale to be running super light wheels but if I wasn’t it would be the first place I looked to reduce weight.
I don’t have a problem with my bike running out of battery as it is all down to battery management and I feel I finally have that sussed now ?
I use DH tyres on the ‘local’ terrain I ride because if I don’t my tyres get slashed.
My bike does not feel like I am riding through treacle and that is down to me probably being used to riding with heavy tyres now and of course having Turbo on tap when ever I feel the need.
However, saying all that, I am more than happy to try your recommendations Gary to lose some weight of my beast of a fat pig ebike to see how much it will change the feel of my bike ?
I know it is hard for you to recommend what I should try as my terrain is different to yours, your skill set is different to mine, BUT, as a pure ‘starting point’ to help me and the ‘other’ forum members
What version and sizes of Maxxis or different make of tyres are you currently running front and rear and a rough guide re psi.
I know you have briefly mentioned this in other posts but I am having trouble finding them at the moment as I am standing on a packed train heading out of London heading towards South Wales.
2.5 DHF? Front or Rear? As I know some people run them Front\Rear
2.5 DHR? Front or Rear? Front or Rear? As I know some people run them Front\Rear
2.5 Semi Slick? Rear?
2.5 Shorty? More for intermediate Front or Rear? As I know some people run them Front\Rear
Hope you can assist ?
Dude. After I left Paul I rode all afternoon at Glentress with my Ebike switched off (the battery still had the 3 bars when I switched it off) spent a good half an hour just jumping and climbed to the top twice. I don't really care about battery range, and certainly don't have battery anxiety. when the lights go out it doesn't mean the party's over 
I'll try to answer your questions but I can't really offer you the specific advice you're asking for.
The tread design depends on what you can cope with and what your local terrain is. I'll happily ride my go to dry weather set-up (2.5 DHF exo DC front and 2.3 SS exo DC silkworm rear) in the wetest slippiest conditions down some of the hardest steepest trails in the country. Most people won't. I actually enjoy being a little more on the edge (not 100% in control) at times.
Most people where I ride will be scrabbling to fit shortys or Magic Marys right around this time of year. I won't. I never do.
What I run is irrelivant to you. but basically I run a DHF or DHRII up front, Semi slicks or DHFs rear.
2.5 DH casings on my DH bikes, 2.5/2.3 Exo on enduro/Eeb and 2.35/2.35 single ply on hardtails and Slopestyle bikes.
A DHRII upfront when ridden properly corners almost exactly the same as a DHF but offers massively more braking performance. They are both soe of the most predictable tyre tread designs ever created.
You almost certainly don't need a full DH casing unless you are absolutely smashing very rough/rocky DH tracks. a lighter intermediate casing and appropriate presures should suffice.
A clumsy rider can dish out more abuse. as can a heavy rider. But the solution is not to go to full DH casings. It's to ride within your limits, choose better lines and stop smashing into square edges.
There's absolutely no point in me telling you a starting point for tyre pressure as I know nothing about you, how you ride, where you ride, what you weigh, your riding style, cornering preference etc. etc.
What I can tell you is you need a sidewall to support the tread, so the thinner/lighter the casing the more pressure you need to run to support it. You're looking for a tyre pressure somewhere high enough where it will never fold or squirm and low enough it gives you the grip and comfort you're looking for. it's always a compromise and also down to personal preference. I'm not looking for ultimate grip and I'm certainly not looking for maximum comfort. Support is far more important to me.
To try and explain something to you I'll use the Minion SS semi slick as an example.
If you run a minion SS too soft in the rear looking for more straight line traction it will conform (squirm) too much and simply won't dig in properly (consistently) when you lean it over properly. ie. When you REALLY need the grip! it won't hold you! Straight line grip really isn't that important to me at all. cornering grip is.
I'll try to answer your questions but I can't really offer you the specific advice you're asking for.
The tread design depends on what you can cope with and what your local terrain is. I'll happily ride my go to dry weather set-up (2.5 DHF exo DC front and 2.3 SS exo DC silkworm rear) in the wetest slippiest conditions down some of the hardest steepest trails in the country. Most people won't. I actually enjoy being a little more on the edge (not 100% in control) at times.
Most people where I ride will be scrabbling to fit shortys or Magic Marys right around this time of year. I won't. I never do.
What I run is irrelivant to you. but basically I run a DHF or DHRII up front, Semi slicks or DHFs rear.
2.5 DH casings on my DH bikes, 2.5/2.3 Exo on enduro/Eeb and 2.35/2.35 single ply on hardtails and Slopestyle bikes.
A DHRII upfront when ridden properly corners almost exactly the same as a DHF but offers massively more braking performance. They are both soe of the most predictable tyre tread designs ever created.
You almost certainly don't need a full DH casing unless you are absolutely smashing very rough/rocky DH tracks. a lighter intermediate casing and appropriate presures should suffice.
A clumsy rider can dish out more abuse. as can a heavy rider. But the solution is not to go to full DH casings. It's to ride within your limits, choose better lines and stop smashing into square edges.
There's absolutely no point in me telling you a starting point for tyre pressure as I know nothing about you, how you ride, where you ride, what you weigh, your riding style, cornering preference etc. etc.
What I can tell you is you need a sidewall to support the tread, so the thinner/lighter the casing the more pressure you need to run to support it. You're looking for a tyre pressure somewhere high enough where it will never fold or squirm and low enough it gives you the grip and comfort you're looking for. it's always a compromise and also down to personal preference. I'm not looking for ultimate grip and I'm certainly not looking for maximum comfort. Support is far more important to me.
To try and explain something to you I'll use the Minion SS semi slick as an example.
If you run a minion SS too soft in the rear looking for more straight line traction it will conform (squirm) too much and simply won't dig in properly (consistently) when you lean it over properly. ie. When you REALLY need the grip! it won't hold you! Straight line grip really isn't that important to me at all. cornering grip is.
Dude, believe or not, you have answered my questions. As Like I said, I just wanted a starting point and you have done just that. Cheers ?Dude. After I left Paul I rode all afternoon at Glentress with my Ebike switched off (the battery still had the 3 bars when I switched it off) spent a good half an hour just jumping and climbed to the top twice. I don't really care about battery range, and certainly don't have battery anxiety. when the lights go out it doesn't mean the party's over
I'll try to answer your questions but I can't really offer you the specific advice you're asking for.
The tread design depends on what you can cope with and what your local terrain is. I'll happily ride my go to dry weather set-up (2.5 DHF exo DC front and 2.3 SS exo DC silkworm rear) in the wetest slippiest conditions down some of the hardest steepest trails in the country. Most people won't. I actually enjoy being a little more on the edge (not 100% in control) at times.
Most people where I ride will be scrabbling to fit shortys or Magic Marys right around this time of year. I won't. I never do.
What I run is irrelivant to you. but basically I run a DHF or DHRII up front, Semi slicks or DHFs rear.
2.5 DH casings on my DH bikes, 2.5/2.3 Exo on enduro/Eeb and 2.35/2.35 single ply on hardtails and Slopestyle bikes.
A DHRII upfront when ridden properly corners almost exactly the same as a DHF but offers massively more braking performance. They are both soe of the most predictable tyre tread designs ever created.
You almost certainly don't need a full DH casing unless you are absolutely smashing very rough/rocky DH tracks. a lighter intermediate casing and appropriate presures should suffice.
A clumsy rider can dish out more abuse. as can a heavy rider. But the solution is not to go to full DH casings. It's to ride within your limits, choose better lines and stop smashing into square edges.
There's absolutely no point in me telling you a starting point for tyre pressure as I know nothing about you, how you ride, where you ride, what you weigh, your riding style, cornering preference etc. etc.
What I can tell you is you need a sidewall to support the tread, so the thinner/lighter the casing the more pressure you need to run to support it. You're looking for a tyre pressure somewhere high enough where it will never fold or squirm and low enough it gives you the grip and comfort you're looking for. it's always a compromise and also down to personal preference. I'm not looking for ultimate grip and I'm certainly not looking for maximum comfort. Support is far more important to me.
To try and explain something to you I'll use the Minion SS semi slick as an example.
If you run a minion SS too soft in the rear looking for more straight line traction it will conform (squirm) too much and simply won't dig in properly (consistently) when you lean it over properly. ie. When you REALLY need the grip! it won't hold you! Straight line grip really isn't that important to me at all. cornering grip is.
No worries. Glad to have helped.
If we rode together it'd be easier to help out properly
If we rode together it'd be easier to help out properly
Agreed, maybe one day we will ?
Hopefully
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
You can come too. You can never have too many Dave's
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
Always more than one Dave!
Do I get to be little spoon Gary? Please, please, please?
Do I get to be little spoon Gary? Please, please, please?
Topov
Active member
Magic Marys come in 27.5 x 2.6 addix soft (orange). I know as I have one
Topov
Active member
No problem But I aint payingMe too. Should we get a room?
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