What did you do to your EBike this week?

[Bones]

Must make a big difference that cover ,that's where most of the crap goes.

It looks shit but does a fantastic job
Got it off a mate that accidentally ordered two from somewhere!

 

[Binhill1]

It looks shit but does a fantastic job
Got it off a mate that accidentally ordered two from somewhere!

The best kind of mates. Not half as ugly as most of the rear mudguards out there

 

[Bones]

The best kind of mates. Not half as ugly as most of the rear mudguards out there

Got one of them to

 

[steve_sordy]

Busy couple of hours:
# Chain still skipping in the middle of the cassette. Is the chain worn?
# Shifter cable tension adjusted, shifting fine now.
# Cassette checked, slight burrs in middle range, OK elsewhere.
# Chain was rubbing on the cable wire on the mech, looked a bit long. Removed two links took it back to 116 links. No longer rubbing on cable.
# Removed chain and measured over 100 links, still 0.125%. at 1022 miles.
# New front tyre fitted Maxxis Assegai 29x2.5” 3C Maxx Grip TR DH Casing. After 3280 miles the old one (same) was ready for the bin.
# Rear rim is wobbling side to side 3-4mm. Front is true. I'll let the bike shop do that when I replace the rear wheel (arriving in a couple of days).

 

[Mikerb]

Busy couple of hours:
# Chain still skipping in the middle of the cassette. Is the chain worn?
# Shifter cable tension adjusted, shifting fine now.
# Cassette checked, slight burrs in middle range, OK elsewhere.
# Chain was rubbing on the cable wire on the mech, looked a bit long. Removed two links took it back to 116 links. No longer rubbing on cable.
# Removed chain and measured over 100 links, still 0.125%. at 1022 miles.
# New front tyre fitted Maxxis Assegai 29x2.5” 3C Maxx Grip TR DH Casing. After 3280 miles the old one (same) was ready for the bin.
# Rear rim is wobbling side to side 3-4mm. Front is true. I'll let the bike shop do that when I replace the rear wheel (arriving in a couple of days).

if you have shortened the chain you possibly need to readjust the B tension. Surprised you opted for DH casing for the front wheel. I use DD on the back wheel and EXO+ on the front.......seems a reliable compromise between weight and protection. I use Assegai front and DHR11 back but that bike mainly only does forest riding so no rocks...just roots!.

I would not use an Assegai for cross country type rides a round here in the winter...it just clogs with mud and becomes a slick!! DHF is better for mud clearance and in the winter for the bike that does all of the cross country riding I change the rear Dissector to a Shorty or Hillbilly.

 

[irie]

I would not use an Assegai for cross country type rides a round here in the winter...it just clogs with mud and becomes a slick!! DHF is better for mud clearance and in the winter for the bike that does all of the cross country riding I change the rear Dissector to a Shorty or Hillbilly.

Psst ... now have High Roller 3 front and rear for winter, can't fault them. Exemplary grip in all conditions including mud, and faster rolling than expected too.

 

[Mikerb]

Psst ... now have High Roller 3 front and rear for winter, can't fault them. Exemplary grip in all conditions including mud, and faster rolling than expected too.

yep I saw that tyre as an option but had already bought both a Shortie and Hillbilly ( cos that one was cheap as chips!) during the summer...advanced planning! Could be an option for next year.......not for the front though.

 

[irie]

Today got my Ohlins TTX22m.2 coil shock serviced by Windwave in Portsmouth. Had done about 2,500 miles (about 300 hours?) and apparently still in pretty good condition. Took it in this morning and collected it this afternoon, thanks Windwave.

 

[irie]

yep I saw that tyre as an option but had already bought both a Shortie and Hillbilly ( cos that one was cheap as chips!) during the summer...advanced planning! Could be an option for next year.......not for the front though.

Especially for the front! Probably going to leave front on all year and then use part worn Assegai and DHR2 as rears in drier conditions.

 

[DrDexx]

Psst ... now have High Roller 3 front and rear for winter, can't fault them. Exemplary grip in all conditions including mud, and faster rolling than expected too.

Just got myself a pair of these to replace the Assegais for the northern winter slop riding!

Only 53.99 each from wolf cycles!

 

[HandsomeDanNZ]

I added a velcro strap to my downtube.
While I have never had any issues with the battery or cover coming off, I have read anough now that my rides were becoming less enjoyable every time I ended up in some janky fast-paced trails.
I had a spare strap in the house, so added that for peace of mind. It bothers me from an aesthetic perspective, but at least now I can barrel down a lumpy, bumpy and jumpy trail without any worries of the battery or cover falling out.

 

[steve_sordy]

I added a velcro strap to my downtube.
While I have never had any issues with the battery or cover coming off, I have read anough now that my rides were becoming less enjoyable every time I ended up in some janky fast-paced trails.
I had a spare strap in the house, so added that for peace of mind. It bothers me from an aesthetic perspective, but at least now I can barrel down a lumpy, bumpy and jumpy trail without any worries of the battery or cover falling out.

After my bike came back from the LBS for a new inner and outer gear cable, I bumped over a step and the battery fell out! They had told me that they had to remove the battery to replace the cable and still had to use cable connectors to draw the new cable through with the old one. I guess that they didn't quite lock the battery in properly. I did it, properly I thought, but before I refastened the cover, I bounced the bike on the lawn and it fell out again! Hmm, what's going on?

I almost never remove the battery so the locking mechanism is not worn, maybe a bit stiff? I gave the mechanism a close inspection followed by a bit of a clean and a light lube with TF2. Then a careful but firm push and I could tell it was in properly this time. No need for cable ties.

Note: I did once fit the battery cover incorrectly and thereafter it never looked right; never looking as though it fitted properly. So, I spent some time on it. I heated it with a hairdryer and made sure that it was properly engaged into the frame. Once in, I secured it with two runs of zip ties to hold it in place. I left it for a few weeks and it's been as good as gold since without the need for zip ties. I remove the cover now and then to inspect for dust or mud penetration. Never find anything, but the cover always fits right back in.

 

[Anders]

Put on my studded tires. Its getting close to winter, we have had some days with icy roads already.
The tires are the same as I used last winter; Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro, 2.25 wide. I rode approx 500km on them last winter, they still seem OK to me.

 

[Binhill1]

Put on my studded tires. Its getting close to winter, we have had some days with icy roads already.
The tires are the same as I used last winter; Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro, 2.25 wide. I rode approx 500km on them last winter, they still seem OK to me.

Do you still need winter car tyres by law in Norway ? . I did a job in Halden and the Engineer had to get tyres changed as it was the beginning of December. When the harbour started to freeze over I said time to go home .

 

[Anders]

Do you still need winter car tyres by law in Norway ? . I did a job in Halden and the Engineer had to get tyres changed as it was the beginning of December. When the harbour started to freeze over I said time to go home .

Well, its a matter of interpretation of the law, I think. We need to have suitable tyres for the road conditions. If you are cought (perhaps after running off the road) with summer tyres during winter conditions, it's an offence.
So everybody in their right mind have two sets of tyres for their cars. Studded tyres, however, are not needed. There are a lot of high quality studless winter tyres these days. I haven't used studded tyres (on vehicles with more than two wheels) for at least two decades. Two-wheelers (electric and petrol-driven) is an entierly different matter. There, studded tyres is the way to go.

 

[Binhill1]

Well, its a matter of interpretation of the law, I think. We need to have suitable tyres for the road conditions. If you are cought (perhaps after running off the road) with summer tyres during winter conditions, it's an offence.
So everybody in their right mind have two sets of tyres for their cars. Studded tyres, however, are not needed. There are a lot of high quality studless winter tyres these days. I haven't used studded tyres (on vehicles with more than two wheels) for at least two decades. Two-wheelers (electric and petrol-driven) is an entierly different matter. There, studded tyres is the way to go.

Yes I remember Rholf had his spare wheels in the boot he didn't live in Halden. I did a hill a couple years ago in winter conditions. I had to use sides of track due to all the ice. Adrian lives near the hill so has studded tyres on Ebike all winter . Very impressive to see the grip he got..

 

[Anders]

Adrian lives near the hill so has studded tyres on Ebike all winter . Very impressive to see the grip he got..

Yep. In many cases, you get better grip on ice than during summer on the same trails, as where it is muddy during summer, its hard ice during winter.
I also do some motorcycle enduro riding. There we use 7mm long spikes. And lots of them in each tyre as well. When riding on hard snow or ice, it is almiost like riding on a paved summer road (grip-wise).

 

[steve_sordy]

Yes I remember Rholf had his spare wheels in the boot he didn't live in Halden. I did a hill a couple years ago in winter conditions. I had to use sides of track due to all the ice. Adrian lives near the hill so has studded tyres on Ebike all winter . Very impressive to see the grip he got..

I'll bet he has a rear mudguard!

 

[Binhill1]

I'll bet he has a rear mudguard!

Yes I wouldn't like to over stretch with a studded tires .

 

[Anders]

Yes I wouldn't like to over stretch with a studded tires .

I tried that once. Or rather, I got my thigh between the rear mudguard and the studded tire in a crash on my (petrol) enduro bike. Not to be reccomended. Could't ride for weeks. But luckily, the studs didn't dig deep into the flesh. According to the doctor, the damage was quite similar to being dragged along a paved road. Attached is a picture of the wool trousers I used at the time.

 

[Binhill1]

I tried that once. Or rather, I got my thigh between the rear mudguard and the studded tire in a crash on my (petrol) enduro bike. Not to be reccomended. Could't ride for weeks. But luckily, the studs didn't dig deep into the flesh. According to the doctor, the damage was quite similar to being dragged along a paved road. Attached is a picture of the wool trousers I used at the time.

View attachment 150091 for a horrible minute I thought I was getting a pic of your wound

 

[steve_sordy]

Following on from my post of #275 a few days ago.
# New rear tyre fitted WTB Trail Boss,27.5 x 2.6”, Tritec Tough, fast rolling, 1230gm, DH carcass.
# Lever bleed on front brake.
# Adjusted B screw, following chain shortening by 2 links. It is now at the limit of adjustment.
# Rear rim wobble (3-4mm) fixed at LBS.

Sound straight forward, doesn't it?
But part way through fitting the tyre, all three tyre levers broke! But they were over 20 years old, so I guess I can't complain, but all at the same time, who would have betted on that? It was the consequences following from that were painful. I was just about to add sealant and had released one side of the tyre to do so. I was trying to pull out a short section of bead to pour in the sealant when the levers broke. I thought that I could still get the sealant in and poured in 130ml. But it ran around the outside of the tyre and pissed all over the workbench!

Anyway, I cleaned all that lot up and re-seated the tyre and inflated it. Then cleaned up the wheel and tyre and took it in to the LBS for the rim wobble to be fixed. While I was there, I bought a set of Parktool tyre levers for £4.99. He gave me the two valve keys I also asked for. I added the sealant when I got home.

While I was waiting for the rim to be sorted, I went out for a walk and came across a "Cash Converter" shop. They buy and sell second hand goods. They had a few bikes outside so I went in for a look. Long story short, I bought a drop handled bar road bike. I knew it was a Pinnacle in black, but not that it was a Dolomite 5 (that was on the receipt, along with 12 months warranty (but for what I have no idea, probably against it being found to be stolen). When new, the rrp was £1000. I got it for £100.
A good review by Bike Radar here, couldn't find a later one. No idea how old the bike is, but it has an alloy fork and hydraulic disc brakes, so it must be from 2016 onwards.

https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/pinnacle-dolomite-5-review

Wheel bearings and BB sound, hydraulic brakes spot on, 2x10 transmission that didn't look as though the gears or chain had been cleaned - ever! The chain was off. Based on what I saw and the price, I thought I couldn't go wrong.
I was on my way back to the LBS to collect my wheel, so I dropped it off for a good looking over. He greeted me with "Hmm it looks like you have been spending too much time shopping!" Although when he had a look at the bike, he thought it was a bargain.

This will be a good commuter bike for my grandson. If he doesn't want it, I'll take it!

 

[DieBoy]

This week the most essential upgrade ever:

With the new cap, the bike goes faster of course

Also put on the new tyres, just in time for the shitty weather coming next week. (Related thread: Tyre advice: upgrade from Smart Sams )


I've put on tyres loads of times but I think this is the first time doing foldables, they were a bit of a bugger to put on as new tyres generally are. It's one of those "I need 3 hands" jobs (3 tyre levers ≡ 3 hands). Also in my haste put the front one on without checking the direction, was of course the wrong way (doh). "Changing tyres makes you tired".

Also cleaned the cassette and chain and the brake discs while I was there.

 

[RustyMTB]

Three hand jobs is certainly some going.

 

[Renton_Yorkshire]

This week was Fatbar Lites.

More than twice the rise, half the weight of the stock bars (not I care much on a Rail ) and £75

First test ride out this morning, much better on the posture

View attachment IMG_3590.jpeg

 

[HandsomeDanNZ]

This week was Fatbar Lites.

More than twice the rise, half the weight of the stock bars (not I care much on a Rail ) and £75

First test ride out this morning, much better on the posture

View attachment 150457

I am a massive fan of Renthal Fatbars.
Their upsweep and backsweep numbers are perfect for my hands/wrists and they are by far the best bars I have ever used.
At some point I will add some to my bike, but the internal cable routing on the stock bars makes it harder to do than a standard MTB.

 

[Binhill1]

This week was Fatbar Lites.

More than twice the rise, half the weight of the stock bars (not I care much on a Rail ) and £75

First test ride out this morning, much better on the posture

View attachment 150457

Where did you get them

 

[Renton_Yorkshire]

Where did you get them

highonbikes.com

Ordered Thursday afternoon, delivered Friday afternoon and straight on Saturday morning

 

[VWsurfbum]

I so I got round to fitting the Magic Mary's that I bought for Ard rock that didn't turn up until a few weeks after the race.
Really frustrating that when you line the valve up on one side to be in the middle, on the other side its #wonky

I did clean off the monkey Jizz after the photo.

 

[Binhill1]

highonbikes.com

Ordered Thursday afternoon, delivered Friday afternoon and straight on Saturday morning

Had a look i could possibly get them as a Xmas present. Not sure about what sweep and rise though