Vitus E-Mythique LT Enduro EMTB - Bargain of the year

Zimmerframe

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Ran it to flat today. It does go to Zero !

If you use the Range estimator, it's like all of the motors, if your terrain changes or your assistance mode changes, the estimation will be incorrect (more hills, less range).

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Generally, the battery % was pretty linear all the way down until about 8% when it seemed to start dropping a bit faster.

At 5% the battery icon started to flash and power was limited to about 320w.

The last 5% vanished and only lasted about 1km. So when you're down to 5%, put it in "E" and prepare for some work, or turn it to no assistance and save the 5% for a hill.

Range was about 55km's and 1000m climbing - not too bad as I was generally pretty lazy and used more assistance than normal.

I think the brakes might actually be starting to improve ! (I suspect I'm imagining it...) Only taken 100km's to bed in a bit .. The calipers actually look fine and take the same pads as 4 piston XT/Saint/Zee. The finned XT pads don't fit, they foul the caliper sides slightly but the normal pads fit. Have just put some in to try out of curiosity. Might swap over some Shimano levers and see how they feel then.

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Heard back from Bikester. They want me to return the fork to them, for them to send to Suntour to see if it can be repaired. Slightly disappointed if I'm honest, was hoping with a new bike they'd send out an exchange fork or damper. But then there's always the possibility that people say their fork is rubbish and it's just normal with lots of time and money wasted. I'm guessing by the time it's got to Bikester from here. Then to Suntour. Then looked at. Then returned to Bikester. Then returned to me that we'll be talking about a month. It's ridiculous to have a new bike sitting around which you can't ride and there's no guarantee that the returned fork will actually be usable, so I have a Zeb on the way. The Suntour won't be going back on so that's the end of the Suntour experiment.

In other not exciting news :

Swapped the right hand lever and microshift levers around and moved the brake lever further inboard. With the Tektro lever length that puts the Microshift more where I'm used to having the shifter and the brake levers in a far better place. Swapped on some loamlabs counterpunch bar ends/grips too as they've saved me countless times.

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Pretty much did the same on the other side. Moved the brakes inboard, then the dropper (swapped positions) - so they're now where I'd normally have them using matchmakers or equivalent. This left space to move the M510 controller in slightly too as I've caught the buttons with the side of my hand a few times.

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And finally .... views in the downtube - very neat !

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CarolinaCrawler

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Jan 30, 2023
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I think the brakes might actually be starting to improve ! (I suspect I'm imagining it...) Only taken 100km's to bed in a bit .. The calipers actually look fine and take the same pads as 4 piston XT/Saint/Zee. The finned XT pads don't fit, they foul the caliper sides slightly but the normal pads fit. Have just put some in to try out of curiosity. Might swap over some Shimano levers and see how they feel then.
I wonder if you tried some Galfer or MTX pads if it would wake them up. The Tectro rotors seem impressive for the money. They are rated for metal pads and are 2.3 mils thick.
 

Zimmerframe

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Thanks for the update @Zimmerframe. Did you notice any appreciable drop in performance, modes not offering their usual performance as you got down to the low %?
There was a steady drop in peak watts available in Boost and Race modes as the voltage dropped through the whole battery, though I can't really say it was noticeable in terms of feeling. The other modes still seemed to be pulling the same watts, which were within what's available with Volts*Amps through most of the range. At 5% it definitely was capped to 320ish watts and from 8% or 10% I'd say it felt like it was starting to limit power in all modes (need to test that more accurately).

I wonder if you tried some Galfer or MTX pads if it would wake them up. The Tectro rotors seem impressive for the money. They are rated for metal pads and are 2.3 mils thick.

The rotors look great, as you say, for the money, they're amazing really. The Calipers look pretty good too. Have moved the levers and swapped out the pads, so will give it a go now and see if that's improved things. The calipers are 4*16mm and the master is 10mm - all the same as Shimano, so should in theory be capable of the same/similar performance. I think there's just something limiting with the Tektro levers so it might just need some TRP/SLX/XT/Zee levers.
 

Anssi

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Thanks for the update on the fork, I have a ticket open with Bikester as well. Did they ask you for the bike's serial number and where did you find it? I have a small sticker with a QR code and a code starting "IC" in the battery compartment, is that it?
 

Zimmerframe

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Thanks for the update on the fork, I have a ticket open with Bikester as well. Did they ask you for the bike's serial number and where did you find it? I have a small sticker with a QR code and a code starting "IC" in the battery compartment, is that it?
They did. It's not easy to see. Send them what you think it is and a picture of it, as the second time they ask, they want a picture of the bike, the serial number and the faulty part.

It's actually stamped into the back of the seat tube just above the motor .
 

Zimmerframe

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OK so a quick test.

Different pads and spending a bit of time moving things around hugely improved braking ! They were just some Sommet pads I had lying around, but a vast improvement. I locked the front just when starting to bed them in coming down from the house (when obviously not wanting to lock as bedding in !).

Battery was at 20% near the end (only had a partial charge from flat). Was still seeing 635w in Boost.

Put a bit more effort in several times, despite it being stupidly hot and got some interesting peak powers out of Strava (obviously is not a scientific result) - higher peaks than the Brose or the Bosch, but to be taken with a pinch of salt !

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The Microshift had a few ghost shifts, I really need/needed to spend 5 minutes making sure it was all set correctly, especially after some cable bedding in and moving things around on the bars - I suspect this contributed to the dreaded silver snake appearing ...

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It could also be a sign that the Microshift Advent chain option maybe isn't that good, so worthy of an upgrade (It's a KMC X10). It's the first chain I've snapped in years even when ripping derailleurs off.

Not sure what the best alternative is on a 10 speed Microshift cassette. I have 10 Speed Shimano's (which are probably badged KMC's) and 11 and 12 SRAM's in stock, so can have a play. Sprocket thickness and inner chain width are the same so in theory 10/11 or 12 speed chains should work but 11 or 12's could be slightly weaker as they have thinner plates and shorter pins..... but is a shorter pin harder to bend than a longer pin ???

Anyone have any experience on the Vee's ??? They seem grippy, though as I have random suspension the bike does all sorts of weird things so I can't really get a feel for them or their strength/longevity. Still running at 3 bar as the tubes are still in and I know if I go lower I'll tear the tubes if I start trying to go a bit quicker.

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Zimmerframe

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The USB-C power outlet works to charge your phone/light/whatever. A little icon also appears on the display when it's in use.

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Whilst the area in front of the motor and up the battery has extra protection, the default M510 sump guard feels a bit flimsy. Would be nice to source an Aluminium alternative. Though it looks like Chain Reaction/Wiggle will have replacements (€12).

Other good news is that Chain reaction are starting to stock M510 parts and are pricing things very sensibly !!

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Zimmerframe

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The only KMC X10 I had lying around was a 114 link, the VR takes a 116 link, so I've just used a quick link for now in the original chain. My 11 speed chains are all 114 links too, so the same problem.

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The top pulley/jockey was pretty rammed with crap. Once I'd cleaned that out you noticed that the jockey wheels have quite a lot of lateral play in them. So the earlier theory that junk in there makes it shift crap would make sense as it forces them out of alignment.

Checked the derailleur adjustments and with he chain back on it was absolutely perfect. Wound the B screw in a couple of turns for slightly more wrap on the 11 tooth, but that made it tight shifting into the 48T so wound it back out one turn and it seems good.

Microshift Advent - keep your Jockeys clean !!! Also, make sure your clutch is engaged fully. It uses a gear system for the clutch, so if it's not, you'll wear the gears and it will stop working.

I noticed that the chain rubs slightly on the chain guide in 11,13,15,18T. It will probably "self adjust" (wear) in time. This was the sound which I thought was from the motor which sounded like a brake disk rubbing on and off.

Instead I've added a small washer. It probably doesn't need the guide with a clutched derailleur and narrow wide, but it's there so may as well use it for now. It's quite nicely made, decent grade plastic and even has a locator pin. Had to file the edge of that and the other support down slightly for the washer to sit flat.

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I've got used to the shifters, though they do lack some tactility. The VR has the Advent X Trail shifters, but I've just noticed they also do an Advent X Trail Pro shifter (SL-M9605-R - about €35) - they seem to be identical except for a silicone pad over the shifters, so you could just glue something on one if you wanted better feel/grip.

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Anssi

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Did anyone that got the VR model get a fork that at least superficially (clicks on the clickers) works? I know of at least four and maybe five owners with messed up forks.
 

Zimmerframe

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Just out on the Jam2 .. the joys of working suspension and nice brakes ... Stopped after 5km's and ordered the TRP Slate Evos. (Same as VRS) Bike discount for €90 for the full set instead of €300 (they were already on the consideration list).


I thought I'd charged the bike last night, but when I went to go out it said 21% .. Decided I'd just done something stupid, so put it back and put it on charge. Just got back and it's still 21% - cold charger (light is on).

Unplugged everything and plugged it in again then ran up Bafang Go, you can see the Amps increasing on the battery page, so it's definitely charging now - though will unplug and run it to flat as I forgot to check the cell voltages when flat.

I wonder if the battery jack doesn't always sit properly, time will tell ...

Riding a bike with working suspension was SOOOOO nice :)
 
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Zimmerframe

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Just had a quick play back to back with the E-mythique at 21% Battery and the Jam at 80% Battery.

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Eco on the Mythique is definitely stronger than Eco on the Bosch.

Trail felt quite flat tonight in comparison to EMTB. So it seems it does limit/reduce performance as the battery gets low. I was going up some hills 10kph faster on the Bosch. I guess when you ride the bike to flat, you compensate as you go along for the reduced performance and don't realise how much it's reduced.

Noise, both very similar, the M510 slightly higher pitched. I also found the rattle more noticable on the M510.

The brakes have definitely improved with the different pads. They still lack power in comparison, but at least they slow the bike down more effectively than they were doing.

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The fork. Oh god, it's horrible. You just feel it pushing the front out everywhere completely randomly. Hitting anything is just like hitting a wall. Even bounce the front up and the landing is just like with locked out forks/no suspension.

Just did some weights. These aren't accurate, only comparisons as using bathroom scales and holding the bikes.

Kenevo Expert 2019 L - Tubeless, relatively light tyres, 500wh - 24.5kg
Jam 2 6.9 2021 M - Tubeless, Magic Mary's, 630wh - 25.7kg
E-Mythique VR - Tubed. Stock Vee's. 630wh - 26.4kg (subtracted oneup/lights/bar ends/fidlock mount) does also have the horrible pedals on it which are heavier than the other bikes.

Charging - I just put it back on. I still can't see any obvious way to know if it's charging or not. But if you turn it on. Press up and down together until the menu appears. Select Information. Select Battery you can see in "Current" that it's charging :

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Zimmerframe

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@Zimmerframe with the experiences you have had with the vitus so far, would you buy it again given the option ?
I think so. I really wish I'd been able to ride the bike properly and see what it's capable of in stock form before deciding to upgrade things.

The Focus was a sort of replacement for the Kenevo, but the Kenevo's still faster going up and down (on all trail types) - but then they are different types of bikes (Though I don't fall off the Focus anything like as much as the Kenevo - think significant like 1/50)

I was hoping (still am) that this will end up faster than the Kenevo up and down - or certainly down !

I'd have liked to have got the VRS, but buying on day 1, only Bikester had it listed in France and only the VR - which as a bonus they had incorrectly priced !

Vitus themselves - I don't know. Initial communication was excellent, though most of the information in retrospect was incorrect (Type of Display and requiring a firmware update an some other bits). Further communication (once there was a problem - resulted in no response - but as stated earlier in the thread, it's for the dealer to deal with)

They still have lots of errors on their website which have been pointed out and acknowledged :

The VR - still says it has 170mm fork in the main description :

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The VRS - says it has DB8 brakes, it doesn't it has TRP's (which are most likely better anyway)

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Positives :

The build is excellent.
I really like the M510 and the way it delivers it's power. With the right Box you can also change it however you like to suit your preferences.
I don't really care about a display, but the display is one of the nicest ones I've seen and the controller is nice and works well. The fact that it also connects to bluetooth is a bonus. If you prefer a bigger more customisable display you can swap out easily and relatively cheaply.
Most of the components are good or certainly satisfactory for the price - the freewheel sounds sweet ! :cool:
The Microshift is a lot better than I'd expected (no idea about longevity yet on the derailleur side).
Dropper lever and dropper are nice and work well (nicer than the Jam).
Saddle's good, as comfy or more comfortable than my Spesh ones.
Geometry seems bang on - climbs really well.
Parts are reasonably priced going forwards.
Motor/battery should be far more economic to look after longer term if you plan to keep the bike and you can even upgrade the motor/battery if you wanted to.
Really nice transition from assisted to unassisted.

Negatives :

The Tektro brakes on the VR aren't really fit for purpose unless you're only going to be riding very gentle trails in a casual fashion or you have nut cracking hands with very little sensitivity. I know they needed to change things to justify price differences, but the TRP's would have been a better choice.
The Fork .. is really frustrating. As they all seem to be faulty I think they should just send out exchange forks and save everyone messing around and being without a bike. It also means I haven't really been able to see how the bike rides properly. (I should just swap it out now for the Lyric on the Kenevo to see how it rides). It also means based on this, that when still in warranty if you don't just want to fix things/buy things yourself, it doesn't set a good precedent for how long it might take and how drawn out the procedures are to get you up and running again.

The motor seems to lack voltage compensation which most of the other motors have now (My Kenevo doesn't), but they could add this with a firmware update down the line (Like Spesh did with 7.4.2). It's not really a deal breaker, it just means that you'll get less peak assistance as the battery flattens - but the battery won't go flat as fast towards the end as it would on a bike with voltage compensation.

Eco is set a bit high. But this is a 170 bike, so in theory you're going to be going up and down and if you wanted to pedal up as if you had a lightweight and go slowly, you'd have bought a lightweight.

I think the VRS offers a really sound package, decent brakes and fork. The VRX I don't think really offers any more, arguably less - other than the rear shock.

The VR with a working fork (assuming it does) - is great value, just upgrade the brake levers or swap out the whole lot to TRP's (€90). If the fork is awful by design, A 160mm fox 36 is £299 from Merlin, which should sit with the same travel as a 170mm Suntour. (If I compare any Fox forks, they always seem to have 10mm more measured travel than other options - The 150 36 on the Jam measures the same as the 160 suntour for example)

Have tried to explain it as just saying Yes or No doesn't really help in this case.
 

Zimmerframe

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Showing up on a search, but not on the actual site yet :

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If you charge the battery out of the bike, the light at the end flashes green when charging.

It then starts flashing blue when it gets to 66%.

Pressing the button on the battery when it's not charging shows blue now, so presumably green when below 66% and maybe red at some other level ? (at 100% it's also blue).

Theoretically, the charger light turns green when it's charged - can't say I've seen that on mine, but then I am colour blind :)

Edit : Took a picture of the charger light when charged and it is green (just looks red to me viewed directly).

Battery capacity continues to increase with charges, now at 16576mah.
 
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Lee c

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Jan 31, 2022
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I think so. I really wish I'd been able to ride the bike properly and see what it's capable of in stock form before deciding to upgrade things.

The Focus was a sort of replacement for the Kenevo, but the Kenevo's still faster going up and down (on all trail types) - but then they are different types of bikes (Though I don't fall off the Focus anything like as much as the Kenevo - think significant like 1/50)

I was hoping (still am) that this will end up faster than the Kenevo up and down - or certainly down !

I'd have liked to have got the VRS, but buying on day 1, only Bikester had it listed in France and only the VR - which as a bonus they had incorrectly priced !

Vitus themselves - I don't know. Initial communication was excellent, though most of the information in retrospect was incorrect (Type of Display and requiring a firmware update an some other bits). Further communication (once there was a problem - resulted in no response - but as stated earlier in the thread, it's for the dealer to deal with)

They still have lots of errors on their website which have been pointed out and acknowledged :

The VR - still says it has 170mm fork in the main description :

View attachment 124153

The VRS - says it has DB8 brakes, it doesn't it has TRP's (which are most likely better anyway)

View attachment 124154

Positives :

The build is excellent.
I really like the M510 and the way it delivers it's power. With the right Box you can also change it however you like to suit your preferences.
I don't really care about a display, but the display is one of the nicest ones I've seen and the controller is nice and works well. The fact that it also connects to bluetooth is a bonus. If you prefer a bigger more customisable display you can swap out easily and relatively cheaply.
Most of the components are good or certainly satisfactory for the price - the freewheel sounds sweet ! :cool:
The Microshift is a lot better than I'd expected (no idea about longevity yet on the derailleur side).
Dropper lever and dropper are nice and work well (nicer than the Jam).
Saddle's good, as comfy or more comfortable than my Spesh ones.
Geometry seems bang on - climbs really well.
Parts are reasonably priced going forwards.
Motor/battery should be far more economic to look after longer term if you plan to keep the bike and you can even upgrade the motor/battery if you wanted to.
Really nice transition from assisted to unassisted.

Negatives :

The Tektro brakes on the VR aren't really fit for purpose unless you're only going to be riding very gentle trails in a casual fashion or you have nut cracking hands with very little sensitivity. I know they needed to change things to justify price differences, but the TRP's would have been a better choice.
The Fork .. is really frustrating. As they all seem to be faulty I think they should just send out exchange forks and save everyone messing around and being without a bike. It also means I haven't really been able to see how the bike rides properly. (I should just swap it out now for the Lyric on the Kenevo to see how it rides). It also means based on this, that when still in warranty if you don't just want to fix things/buy things yourself, it doesn't set a good precedent for how long it might take and how drawn out the procedures are to get you up and running again.

The motor seems to lack voltage compensation which most of the other motors have now (My Kenevo doesn't), but they could add this with a firmware update down the line (Like Spesh did with 7.4.2). It's not really a deal breaker, it just means that you'll get less peak assistance as the battery flattens - but the battery won't go flat as fast towards the end as it would on a bike with voltage compensation.

Eco is set a bit high. But this is a 170 bike, so in theory you're going to be going up and down and if you wanted to pedal up as if you had a lightweight and go slowly, you'd have bought a lightweight.

I think the VRS offers a really sound package, decent brakes and fork. The VRX I don't think really offers any more, arguably less - other than the rear shock.

The VR with a working fork (assuming it does) - is great value, just upgrade the brake levers or swap out the whole lot to TRP's (€90). If the fork is awful by design, A 160mm fox 36 is £299 from Merlin, which should sit with the same travel as a 170mm Suntour. (If I compare any Fox forks, they always seem to have 10mm more measured travel than other options - The 150 36 on the Jam measures the same as the 160 suntour for example)

Have tried to explain it as just saying Yes or No doesn't really help in this case.


Thanks for the detailed reply mate shame about the fork though in the end
 

Zimmerframe

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Had a quick test of the Brose/Bosch/M510 earlier.

Brose is a 1.3, so no voltage compensation and 840w peak power.
Bosch Gen 4 none smart - unknown peak power.
M510 FC2.0 - about 720w peak power.

Eco mode - the Brose is the strongest by default, then the M510 then the Bosch. I normally have my Brose one turned down from default.

All three feel punchy with a good power spread. The Brose is the quietest - almost silent in my case, but they vary and mine squeals when it's having a bad day (which it's done from new).

M510 was 100% charge the other two were at 80% charge. (The Bafang battery continues to increase in capacity with each charge).

EMTB mode on the Bosch still feels like the nicest all round mode for me, but then I've spent a lot of time using it and it's second nature knowing how it will react.

Climbing in Trail (Brose) T (M510) EMTB (Bosch) really depended on the hill. It wasn't as clear cut as I'd expected.

They all pull you in really strongly with the Brose and M510 performing similarly on a couple of climbs (Steeper) where the Bosch needed me to shift down one cog part way up as it was dropping out of the power.

The Microshift did one ghost shift on a climb, so I need to look at that again - I guess it's not adjusted as well as I thought. One interesting discovery. It lets you multishift up like the XT shifters with a deeper press of the shifter, with three gears possible in a single shift (at high risk of massive additional chain/cassette wear on an EMTB I'd imagine).

Edit: sorry. Multishift when changing down,.lower gear, bigger cog. I take it back too. Just tried it several times doing triple shifts at the bottom of hills and it works really well. Smooth and clunk free.

On a different (faster) slope the Bosch pulled faster/harder than the other two with speed at the top being about 2km/h faster than the Brose and about 4km/h faster than the M510. The M510 felt like it started throttling back assistance part way up the climb. Need to test this further as I think it might be cadence related.

In Turbo (Brose) B (M510) and Turbo (Bosch) , the Brose pulled slightly harder and was faster than the other two. The M510 and the Bosch both pulled fairly similarly on the steeper climbs (though the E-mythique is easier to climb on than the Jam2 and I didn't use the Jam2's Switchgrade). On the faster climb, the Bosch wasn't any faster in Turbo than it had been in EMTB as EMTB had pretty much given full power when it was needed. The M510 was faster than trail, but still felt like it started throttling back part way through the climb.

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I think when it comes down to it, anyone would be happy with any of those motors or the bikes.
 
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Zimmerframe

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Update on the Motor Throttling back ...

At 70% battery I was seeing peaks of 650-654w in "T" at medium to high cadence - which is pretty impressive and would mean it could be close to peaking similarly to EMTB mode in the right conditions.

When you hit a cadence of 122/123 (difficult to say exactly as the cadence display seems to have a tiny delay), call it 120 ! It completely cuts assistance.

Had to keep trying this and switching between watts and cadence to make sure it wasn't me imagining things !!

You only really get this on a climb where you're accelerating. The throttling I was feeling was the motor hitting that point, me not maintaining the cadence and dropping back into assistance, which just felt like a sudden drop in power but not a complete stop. It's a bit like an engine hitting the rev limiter.


Other anomalies today ..

Noticed the brake disk rubbing sound from the motor a couple of times and when looking down noticed the chainring doesn't run true. This could either be a chainring which isn't perfect or the motor may not be mounted perfectly square so I need to check the bolts and mounts. It's only about 1mm of play.

The weird thing today was the motor stopped assisting on a really really bumpy bit (no front suspension is making me a better/less lazy rider) the display stayed active so in theory not a battery issue. 10 seconds later it kicked back in again. If I had to guess it would be that the speed sensor got a false reading as it's spoke mounted and could have been "jiggling" around.
 

Zimmerframe

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Just noticed the forks have screws in where you would have equalisation ports on higher end forks ... (frustration & surprise always trump common sense...) .. so wound these out in case there was something strange going on with the damper side ....

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Top is 2.5mm, bottom 3mm.

And ..... it made no difference (no surprise really, but every the hopeful !)

The seat stays have holes in. Not sure if these are for some cunning mudguard attachment or a manufacturing off gassing point. Either way, if you wash lots or ride in the rain, might be worth inverting the bike to drain them out.

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I know I've not been overly positive on the Tektro's, but at least the calipers are labelled and with 5mm pads, you've got lower service intervals. They do seem to continue to improve/I adjust to braking way earlier and no longer ever worry about locking up ....)

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Deriuqer

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Sep 2, 2023
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Thank you so much @Zimmerframe for all the insights and testing!
I hope I can contribute a little bit as well in the next weeks.
My aim will be the magical triangel of increasing performance (brakes and suspension), cutting weight and all in a 'limited' budget.
 

Zimmerframe

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Re-indexed the Microshift, it was slightly out and by default at the maximum of the barrel adjuster in that direction, so hopefully that will solve the ghost shifts when it's full of junk.

Found the charging problem - it wasn't always charging : You need to plug the charger in to a power source and then plug the charge cable into the bike and not the other way around or it doesn't always charge.

@Deriuqer Will be interesting to see how you and @Anssi get on with your changes. I did make another thread to put suspension info in as that normally gets lost in the main threads :

 

Zimmerframe

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One good thing ?!?! about the M510 motor/clutch rattle is that it's very easy to replicate so you can satisfy yourself that something else isn't rattling on the bike .. Just put a finger under the chain next to the chainring and wiggle up and down, it puts just enough back play on the drive to make the noise - which seems to come from the none drive side.


 

Zimmerframe

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Got mine today from bikester, and no pedals included. Fork has no clicks either.
Wonder if the pedals fell out ? My box had an open section so maybe had missing things.

The pedals you'd probably want to change anyway. They're good for included pedals, but bad compared to even a relatively cheap pedal you'd buy.
 

J_J_T

Member
Feb 25, 2021
15
12
Hyrylä, Finland
Wonder if the pedals fell out ? My box had an open section so maybe had missing things.

The pedals you'd probably want to change anyway. They're good for included pedals, but bad compared to even a relatively cheap pedal you'd buy.
May be so and the bike was 2 km test drive driven. Now wondering should i go test drive with it with that fork or not... I'm 177 and L size seems to fit nice saddle post is just lover position. Some small problems with the saddle post cabel but I fixed it.
 

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