Even if it possible ur paint will be gone.Just confirmed that loctite 603 is used on headset cups. Reading on how to remove it, seems like you need high heat of 250c, which is not possible with the carbon fiber.
Even if it possible ur paint will be gone.Just confirmed that loctite 603 is used on headset cups. Reading on how to remove it, seems like you need high heat of 250c, which is not possible with the carbon fiber.
Oh wow! That's unusual.Just confirmed that loctite 603 is used on headset cups. Reading on how to remove it, seems like you need high heat of 250c, which is not possible with the carbon fiber.
Yes i put 2 0.5mm shims. It helped clunking drastically. The top cap was bottoming out on race without shims. However on very large hits i will still get occasional clunk. Not sure if its cables inside. I need to tear it apart and put foam on cables. I might try adding another shim to see also.
on my frame the top cup indeed bears marks of glue, however the general loosness and knocking in the headset caused that the cup became loose and falls out without any special treatment. so you know, try jumping a few times with preaload screw nod fullt tightened and it may fall out too...Just confirmed that loctite 603 is used on headset cups. Reading on how to remove it, seems like you need high heat of 250c, which is not possible with the carbon fiber.
yup, same here. 1mm spacer (4x0.25mm) helped but it still becomes a bit loose after day of jumps. I have a hypothesis that this is caused by the fact the top race is made from PTFE which has very low friction compared to the usual metal ones and allows for minor movements even when tightened to levels which usually would cause increased wear to the bearingsI have the same problem too with 1mm spacer and I get annoyed by the headset sound
Have you ever removed headset cups with loctite 603 or any other bearing retainer? Ive only removed headset cups from aluminum frames which used anti seize or grease.on my frame the top cup indeed bears marks of glue, however the general loosness and knocking in the headset caused that the cup became loose and falls out without any special treatment. so you know, try jumping a few times with preaload screw nod fullt tightened and it may fall out too...
anyway, my usual method of removing the cups is: take a wooden stake and rubber hammer, insert the stake through the other side opening and hit it few times with a hammer. usually it comes out with ease.
fortunately (?) I didn't have to as it fell out on its own.Have you ever removed headset cups with loctite 603 or any other bearing retainer? Ive only removed headset cups from aluminum frames which used anti seize or grease.
Did you replace with new or just put it back in?fortunately (?) I didn't have to as it fell out on its own.
according to the docs loctite 603 is for glueing metal to metal (netting or polymerization is initiated by presence of metal ions), so this might be the reason why it became loose so easily with my top cup. I think trying to delicately knock it out with a rubber hammer won't hurt, after all this frame is designed to carry around my fat ass during the jumps and carbon fiber is typically more durable than aluminium layer of the same width
for the time being I put it back in but I'm planning to replace it with Nukeproof ZS56 headset waiting in my parts bin for a suitable moment to make cut outs in the head tube sidesDid you replace with new or just put it back in?
How loose was the cup when you pressed it back in?for the time being I put it back in but I'm planning to replace it with Nukeproof ZS56 headset waiting in my parts bin for a suitable moment to make cut outs in the head tube sides
I could easily remove it and press it back with my bare hand or just turn the bike upside down and let the gravity do the workHow loose was the cup when you pressed it back in?
hey bafang engineers, where tf is my friggin ROCKY mode?! xdfrom JimLee's conversation with Bafang.
"About the DIY battery, lots of peoples want the bigger battery, 720wh, 840wh, 960wh, the more the better,
but please note,
1. This is an electric assist bicycle, electric energy is only auxiliary and should not be the main force, Use your feet to move the pedals, not just sit there.
2. We talked with the bafang designers, they not suggest the bigger battery more than 500wh for M820 motor, That is, the full electric mode for two hours; high current output for a long time may cause the motor to overheat, which involves the effective conversion of energy of a motor, and they are still being resolved."
Too true. But, I rather have the boost continuous if needed. I rode the the Fazua 60 using their 10 sec super boost mode. Way too short to be practical, even on super short climbs.hey bafang engineers, where tf is my friggin ROCKY mode?! xd
This is why I stand by my statements regarding 48v running way cooler than 36v and will lead to better reliability and longevity of components. This is a full size motor packaged in a low power casing. The math doesnt lie. Say at 500w, the 48v system has roughly 78% less heat.from JimLee's conversation with Bafang.
"About the DIY battery, lots of peoples want the bigger battery, 720wh, 840wh, 960wh, the more the better,
but please note,
1. This is an electric assist bicycle, electric energy is only auxiliary and should not be the main force, Use your feet to move the pedals, not just sit there.
2. We talked with the bafang designers, they not suggest the bigger battery more than 500wh for M820 motor, That is, the full electric mode for two hours; high current output for a long time may cause the motor to overheat, which involves the effective conversion of energy of a motor, and they are still being resolved."
Shift it down to S+ mode and cycle high cadence, the higher your bike cadence the less power the motor consume , I notice my battery drop quality when I turn lazy n pedal with a slow cadence.folks, my evening flash ride, 25km; 500m elev. gain almost entirely in B mode, 22% of 480Wh battery left. seems like it's eating the battery like a hungry hog. does this battery consumption look ok to you? I was hoping I could squeeze more from this battery...
The m820 is not a full size motor and I don't buy the 78% less heat at 48v. The heat affecting the motor is dependent on the heat sinking. You can't calculate the potential heat savings without taking into consideration the removal of heat.This is why I stand by my statements regarding 48v running way cooler than 36v and will lead to better reliability and longevity of components. This is a full size motor packaged in a low power casing. The math doesnt lie. Say at 500w, the 48v system has roughly 78% less heat.
My old e8000 motor puts out 75nm of torque. Ep8 does 85nm. Whats a full size motor to you? M820 will put out 85nm.The m820 is not a full size motor and I don't buy the 78% less heat at 48v. The heat affecting the motor is dependent on the heat sinking. You can't calculate the potential heat savings without taking into consideration the removal of heat.
Just compare the weight of the M820 compared to one of it's full size siblings.
The m620 is an anomaly, not the norm. Its sales numbers arent even a blip in the grand scheme of things. Its readily accepted that EP8 and bosch cx motors are both full power 50+ lb ebikes at 85nm of torque. Ready any ebike reviews that reference this.neither the Shimano e8000 nor the EP8 is a full size motor. The Bafang 620 is a full size motor.
The effect of the heat and how it is removed does make a difference. It would make no difference how much heat was produced if it was all removed by cryo cooling etc. The heatsinking is there to establish the designed heat tolerance.
All engineering is a balance between evils. You design a jet to handle in the left half plane and then you pull it back into the right half plane to make it stable again. In a three phase motor you choose a kv for the motor voltage decide on what power you want and make choices in the winding and the core then you design a controller to drive it. Then it melts and you design some cooling and back a forth.
If the heatsinking is adequate to cool a 36v motor and you are not using it outside the boundary conditions set by the designers, like using boost for a long climb, then 48v is going to do nothing at all if you don't change the winding size.
If you use the M820 out of the design boundaries then you are on your own.
There is no magic in a 48v or 85v motor.
I am concerned about your mileage information. I sold a Cube bike with 500Wh battery and Bosh CX motor and paid for a Bafang 820 with 700Wh battery in the hope that I can increase the mileage of the bike by 30 percent.... Do you think I can get what I want?First impressions, the engine is very. Only in mode B, abruptly after turning on the pedals, the engine stops, then after a few meters starts again. and when rotating constantly then everything is ok, only with a strong pressure on the pedal the help turns off.
I can't answer you. I just assembled the bike. I haven't even been on a test drive yet.I am concerned about your mileage information. I sold a Cube bike with 500Wh battery and Bosh CX motor and paid for a Bafang 820 with 700Wh battery in the hope that I can increase the mileage of the bike by 30 percent.... Do you think I can get what I want?
Thanks, could you elaborate on "my battery drop quality when I turn lazy", I couldn't quite get it and this sounds interesting.Shift it down to S+ mode and cycle high cadence, the higher your bike cadence the less power the motor consume , I notice my battery drop quality when I turn lazy n pedal with a slow cadence.
When I turn lazy mean I pedal.on a very slow cadence , when cycle u will notice the m920 motor 3 difference sound stage. The beginning sound stage will consume the most battery and the third stage consume less power.Thanks, could you elaborate on "my battery drop quality when I turn lazy", I couldn't quite get it and this sounds interesting.
Just to explain, this was my one and only ride in B mode, with the intention to record the movie of my battery level indicator dropping by large values as I wrote few posts earlier, to demonstrate this to SZZT. Still the range was disappointing. Usually I ride in E/T mode with range of ~80km (which seems like quite low too). My typical cadence is in the range of 80-90 rpms, so I guess it's not that low. Even during my B mode spree I keep this cadence because that's what I'm used to, so I don't think cadence is an issue here.
Oh, so there are people who have the same problem as me. My headset can be easily attached and detached by hand.I could easily remove it and press it back with my bare hand or just turn the bike upside down and let the gravity do the work
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