CrispyDesigns
Active member
Me neither. The weather has been so wet in recent weeks that my planned route in the Peaks would have been nothing but a slop fest. Fingers crossed for a dry, windy week to dry out the ground
Strive:ON problems
- Thread starter hubertsk
- Start date
update regarding the latch issues : I recieved and installed the new bosch latch. went on few ride. no problem.
So it is clear that the issue is mainly caused by Bosch. i guess Canyon strive
n has the most issues with it, although the scott also had simular issues.anyway, i'm happy how Canyon Belgium handled it. the acknowledged the problem, they send a temp solution first and now the final solution.
and i'm still really happy with the strive
n, great bike.
Tieff
Member
That looks great and there are even metal parts underneath, wow!
Do you sell that? How long did you test your solution under real working (riding) conditions?
Knick Knack I'm going insane!
OK, I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area (hopefully not the motor) but when I'm pedalling I'm getting some knick knack sounds, not mega loud and I don't think it's rock being thrown up on the downtube as they're usually louder (but very annoying! never had it like this with other bikes maybe bigger fat downtube to blame). So question is... do I remove the cranks and clean and re-grease? it's not the seat post I don't think but will move it up and clean it and use carbon paste... but what else should I do? I'm very experienced with pulling apart my bikes and servicing them and understand typically where these noises can come from on a regular bike but unsure with this as new to eMTB. Any advice beyond the regular cranks, seat post, seat, stem bolts, pedals etc... appreciated.
BTW anything special to consider with an eMTB re clean/re-grease cranks apart from the fact it has no bottom bracket that I can service?
OK, I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area (hopefully not the motor) but when I'm pedalling I'm getting some knick knack sounds, not mega loud and I don't think it's rock being thrown up on the downtube as they're usually louder (but very annoying! never had it like this with other bikes maybe bigger fat downtube to blame). So question is... do I remove the cranks and clean and re-grease? it's not the seat post I don't think but will move it up and clean it and use carbon paste... but what else should I do? I'm very experienced with pulling apart my bikes and servicing them and understand typically where these noises can come from on a regular bike but unsure with this as new to eMTB. Any advice beyond the regular cranks, seat post, seat, stem bolts, pedals etc... appreciated.
BTW anything special to consider with an eMTB re clean/re-grease cranks apart from the fact it has no bottom bracket that I can service?
Could it be from the pedals? I had a brand new set of Burgtec Penthouse Mk5's that immediately had an issue and would click on every rotation of the cranks. I could even feel it in my foot. They then ejected their grease, so I sent them straight back to be rebuilt under warranty.
pretty sure not, but to be sure I'll also replace the pedals with my other ones which don't creak on my other bike... won't hurt...
yeah had that before... will remove, clean, carbon paste it too
CWP-7 Compact Universal Crank Puller
A universal wrench-driven tool for removing crank arms from virtually all three-piece crank systems.
www.parktool.com
Yeah, it's a simple thing to try. I was surprised to find such expensive new pedals with a fault, but better that it was the pedals than anything else.
As for the crank puller, I think I just used a standard one from a MTB toolkit I had. I don't recall buying anything special to get them off.
Cheers, I think I have something like that and just checked... came in an old toolset that I'd forgotten aboutCWP-7 Compact Universal Crank Puller
A universal wrench-driven tool for removing crank arms from virtually all three-piece crank systems.
Yeah, looks like the one I have.
Elimination process:-
1. See if the noise is still there when pedalling whether seated or stood up on the pedals. If it is still there it is not the saddle.
2. See if the noise is only associated with fairly high torque on the cranks or also with only light pressure on the pedals. If is still there even with light torque on the pedals it is less likely to be cranks or motor retention bolts but could be pedals or a worn chainwheel/damaged chain. If only there with fairly heavy torque on the pedals, regardless whether seated or stood up, I would suspect pedals, cranks, or motor retention bolts. Knackered pedal bearings should be easy enough to test by hand. checking how the chain rides on the chainwheel can be checked by eye on a workstand. Motor retention bolts can only really be dealt with by removal, cleaning , regreasing, and re torqueing.
Chady
Member
Hi all been following this thread for a while just about to pull the trigger on this with the bike with the discounts at the moment but been wary with the battery latch problems. Just wondering Hows the battery mechanism holding up for you guys riding with the upgraded/updated fix from canyon and bosch?anyone managed to get sum miles in with this fix?
CrispyDesigns
Active member
With the redesigned latch I've had absolutely no problems at all. The achilles heal of this bike has been fixed. It's a great bike now. I wouldn't hesitate getting one with the discounts available
Chady
Member
Thank you sir for the quick reply.
It's a bit more reassuring to no that the fix is working for someone.
CrispyDesigns
Active member
My friend Andy has the same bike (I have the green CFR and he has the Underdog CFR). He also has the new latch fitted after some issues with the original item and hasn't had any problems with battery disconnects since swapping
Tieff
Member
I think you should also mention what size battery you are using. The 625Wh model always had fewer problems than the 750Wh model because it is 680 grams lighter. This can make a big difference in tough enduro use.
Tubby G
❤️🔥 Hot Stuff ❤️🔥
Zero problems with mine since the upgrade. 750Wh Underdog. It’s a fantastic bike
CrispyDesigns
Active member
I have the 750 battery in my bike
Tieff
Member
That's really great to hear!
Mario Antony
Active member
And that assumption comes from??
CrispyDesigns
Active member
Because that's the spec I bought
Winryn
Active member
1000 miles down so decided to swap tyres. Never liked having a 2.4 on the back after having 2.8’s on previous bike. Put 2.6 eddy currents on. Feel great so far
View attachment IMG_0153.jpeg
View attachment IMG_0153.jpeg
Mario Antony
Active member
Battery disconnection update
After having installed the new latch, and all errors erased from the bike and the upper support checked by the LBS, I thought all problems were solved...
but no!
Battery has already disconecting itself, so before contacting Canyon (again...), I figured I would check the issue better myself.
#1 Canyon is not the first to suffer this problem. If you check Trek Forum, you'll find that the Rail model suffer of similar problem - battery disconnecting itself.
There are several issues, and althought people have alignement procedures written down, it seems several bikes continue with the problem.
#2 - Either Trek Rail, or Canyon Strive :ON don't use Bosch Rail system, and The battery is secured by a lower and upper support, having the plug incorporated. This seems to be the problem
Securing the battery, should be independent from connecting the battery.
#3 - Mondraker, have moved away from removal battery, much probable due to these issues.
After reading this post again, I thought about immobilizing the battery sideways (it had always a side movement, at least mine...).
Results: Nothing happened! Problem is solved, as well as the constant rattling I would ear on rought trails!
As soon as the side supports are removed, the problem comes back.
So, before start jumping of joy, I will continue experimenting this solution, until I'm sure it has been solved.
I will report back soon after I'm satisfied, but basically it's a very simple solution, not requiring zipties, not bolts, what so ever.
It permits remove the battery, and install, and it takes around 30sec, to place the solution to stop side to.side movement...
Since I didn't had this problem from new, and only appeared after several rides (+1000km), it seems I need to take a close look at the connector.
Anyone has the dimensions /tolerances on this connector?
After having installed the new latch, and all errors erased from the bike and the upper support checked by the LBS, I thought all problems were solved...
but no!
Battery has already disconecting itself, so before contacting Canyon (again...), I figured I would check the issue better myself.
#1 Canyon is not the first to suffer this problem. If you check Trek Forum, you'll find that the Rail model suffer of similar problem - battery disconnecting itself.
There are several issues, and althought people have alignement procedures written down, it seems several bikes continue with the problem.
#2 - Either Trek Rail, or Canyon Strive :ON don't use Bosch Rail system, and The battery is secured by a lower and upper support, having the plug incorporated. This seems to be the problem
Securing the battery, should be independent from connecting the battery.
#3 - Mondraker, have moved away from removal battery, much probable due to these issues.
After reading this post again, I thought about immobilizing the battery sideways (it had always a side movement, at least mine...).
Results: Nothing happened! Problem is solved, as well as the constant rattling I would ear on rought trails!
As soon as the side supports are removed, the problem comes back.
So, before start jumping of joy, I will continue experimenting this solution, until I'm sure it has been solved.
I will report back soon after I'm satisfied, but basically it's a very simple solution, not requiring zipties, not bolts, what so ever.
It permits remove the battery, and install, and it takes around 30sec, to place the solution to stop side to.side movement...
Since I didn't had this problem from new, and only appeared after several rides (+1000km), it seems I need to take a close look at the connector.
Anyone has the dimensions /tolerances on this connector?
Mario Antony
Active member
Mario Antony
Active member
I do not have a Strive so my comments are purely my opinion based on all the information given on here a bout the problem. It does seem that the new latch has solved the issue for some users but I wonder for long. I commented before that i saw the issue as being one of battery stability with the latch merely being a victim of that and not the main cause of the disconnections suffered.
The battery connector has lugs to guide the battery into the pin locations but those lugs are not designed to hold the battery securely. Any sideways movement of the battery will damage those pin connections over time.
At the bottom of the battery the bosch latch is a cam lever system and the "fixed" end of that lever is secured in a slot of the ally block Canyon bolted to the bottom of the downtube. Any sideways movement will readilly wear that ally slot ( on a bosch rail system that slot is steel and is an integral part of the rail system). Any cam lever will fail if the distance from the pivot point to the fixed securing point is reduced. In summary I believe the problem is and always was the battery not being properly secured....that in turn compromising the bosch latch and possibly the main connector at the top. So I agree with you.
The battery connector has lugs to guide the battery into the pin locations but those lugs are not designed to hold the battery securely. Any sideways movement of the battery will damage those pin connections over time.
At the bottom of the battery the bosch latch is a cam lever system and the "fixed" end of that lever is secured in a slot of the ally block Canyon bolted to the bottom of the downtube. Any sideways movement will readilly wear that ally slot ( on a bosch rail system that slot is steel and is an integral part of the rail system). Any cam lever will fail if the distance from the pivot point to the fixed securing point is reduced. In summary I believe the problem is and always was the battery not being properly secured....that in turn compromising the bosch latch and possibly the main connector at the top. So I agree with you.
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