Hi all, a bit late to the party but just took delivery of my m10. Running through a few mods, but see pretty much everyone on this forum was quick to replace the stock tyres. I was thinking of switching the dissector out to the rear and putting a dhf 2.5 in front, but not sure which compound. I am 100kg fair weather trail rider in uk (so not completely dry). Maxxterra or maxxgrip?
Rise Up - What are your upgrades?
- Thread starter Bigkatoomer
- Start date
NorthernBloke
Member
Good choice, I have dissector up front and dhr rear, maxx terra if you mix up your riding, maxxgrip if you're just trails
theremotejuggernaut
Active member
2.5 Dhf in Maxxgrip here.
To be fair, having ridden the Dissector on the back for a while and got used to it, I'm thinking about running out up front with something faster on the back.
Originally, I went 2.5 DHF Maxxgrip front and 2.4 DHR maxxterra on the back and it was sluggish as anything. I felt like I was cheating on loose techy come though.
The dissector on the back made it feel generally better though so now I'm thinking of something even faster out back to help with pedalling above the limiter.
I'd say Maxxgrip at the front if you're into natural trail stuff.
So, I´we been thinking of upgrading shock and fork to 160 rear and 160 or 170 in front, bit still full 29er.
The reasons are the following:
For a second time in 1.5 year my frame cracked (rear triangle, left, now right side). Perhaps the shock is bottoming out to hard that the frame been comprimised? The first time it cracked, I only used the bike for a few months and never crashed. I switched to a bigger volume reducer and it made big improvement, but still bottoming out.
The second reason I consider upgrade is that sitting down that much and having rather large roots where I ride make the bottoming out pretty frequent.
Third reason, the pedal strikes. Watching cranks break or the motor bearings take a lot of beating make me want to rise bb. Going up to 150mm fork would perhaps be enough?
In most regards, I like this bike and want to last. I also would like to ride more enduro-ish with it - and so far, I´mt to scared to break it in any of the ways described above.
I´we read a lot here of 160 mm upgrade, but not many reviews - does it really transform the bike to a real light enduro EMTB, or is there a simple, other solution to my problems?
Thanx in advance.
/Jonathan
The reasons are the following:
For a second time in 1.5 year my frame cracked (rear triangle, left, now right side). Perhaps the shock is bottoming out to hard that the frame been comprimised? The first time it cracked, I only used the bike for a few months and never crashed. I switched to a bigger volume reducer and it made big improvement, but still bottoming out.
The second reason I consider upgrade is that sitting down that much and having rather large roots where I ride make the bottoming out pretty frequent.
Third reason, the pedal strikes. Watching cranks break or the motor bearings take a lot of beating make me want to rise bb. Going up to 150mm fork would perhaps be enough?
In most regards, I like this bike and want to last. I also would like to ride more enduro-ish with it - and so far, I´mt to scared to break it in any of the ways described above.
I´we read a lot here of 160 mm upgrade, but not many reviews - does it really transform the bike to a real light enduro EMTB, or is there a simple, other solution to my problems?
Thanx in advance.
/Jonathan
My Levo was the first off the peg bike I have bought for twenty years. Maybe I have been spoilt with all me custom builds and always getting it right the first time , or am I just easily pleased
. Hope it works out for you. NAE Cunt interested
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I would not recommend going 170. It's most likely going to be bad when climbing and your sitting position will be too far back off the bike.
you can use this tool to figure out new geo:
www.bike-stats.de
It's never going to be a mini enduro IMO. The rear end is very flexy and I'm not sure it will hold up that well to continual abuse and you can only change the geo so much until you begin having issues with BB heigh, seat tube position, reach etc etc
you can use this tool to figure out new geo:
bike-stats - everything about bike geometry
Use this app to compare bike geometries of different manufacturers with each other, in order to determine the most suitable bike for your personal requirements.
It's never going to be a mini enduro IMO. The rear end is very flexy and I'm not sure it will hold up that well to continual abuse and you can only change the geo so much until you begin having issues with BB heigh, seat tube position, reach etc etc
Yeah, 170 might be a bad climber. Unfortunately I don't know all the original geo so I can't use the geo-calculator.I would not recommend going 170. It's most likely going to be bad when climbing and your sitting position will be too far back off the bike.
you can use this tool to figure out new geo:
bike-stats - everything about bike geometry
Use this app to compare bike geometries of different manufacturers with each other, in order to determine the most suitable bike for your personal requirements.
It's never going to be a mini enduro IMO. The rear end is very flexy and I'm not sure it will hold up that well to continual abuse and you can only change the geo so much until you begin having issues with BB heigh, seat tube position, reach etc etc
Rod B.
Well-known member
Endurip,
Changing the Rise's travel to 160mm, will greatly enhance the bike's descending ability. Depending on the Rise model, it will have either a 65 or 65.5 head tube angle. The M20 comes with a 140mm Fox 34 and the M10 comes with a Fox 36 150mm fork. Changing the travel to 160mm will alter the head tube angle to approximately 65 degrees. This will much improve descending ability in chunky conditions, however you will lose a very slight bit of nimbleness on steep climbs and very tight turns. The improvement in descending, is well worth the very slight loss in nimbleness. I never once regretted switching travel on my Rise to 160mm.
If you are cracking your rear triangle, it's likely caused by rear shock bottom out. If your Rise came with a Fox DPX2, I would recommend switching to a Fox Float X. The Float X is better suited for heavier riders and or, chunky conditions. You'll experience less bottom out due to the added air volume which the Float X can provide. However, if you routinely ride double black/Pro Line and like to hit gap jumps, you may want to consider upgrading to a Fox DHX2 coil rear shock. Several buddies of mine ran the DHX2 on their Rise and really liked the shock. I routinely ride double black trails and like to rock crawl, but I don't jump much. The Float X works for me.
The Orbea Rise has a very low bottom bracket height of 336mm. Orbea specs the Rise with 170mm crank arms which are way too long for an eBike. When you couple the low bottom bracket height and the 170mm long crank arm, it creates a condition where frequent pedal strikes are a reality, especially in rock gardens and rock ledge step ups. I would suggest switching to a 160mm or possibly a 165mm crank arm length. The 160mm fork and shorter crank arm length will eliminate "Most" pedal strikes. Sometimes shit happens and you just can't avoid it.
Interestingly, when I shortened my crank arms to 160mm it seemed to increase the power on my Rise in technical conditions. I'm not an engineer, but my guess is that the shorter crank arm spin circumference allowed me to spin at a higher cadence with less effort. It could be all in my mind, which has a mind of it's own....Who knows....
Taking my Rise down Glorieta Camps, Jagged Axe Trail - You don't want to pedal strike here
Mt. Nebo on the Sunrise Trail
Cedar City Utah, Boneyard Trail...Wahoo! It's worth the visit, just to see a skeleton giving you the finger as your drop in.
Buena Vista Colorado, Unchained Trail. My Rise M20 with Fox 36 160mm fork, 160mm crank arms, Fox Float X, Shimano XT four piston brakes, Nobl TR37 wheels with 2.6 Assegai front and 2.4 DHR II rear.
The Rise can do Enduro
Thank you Ron for your reply and experiences.
Compared to what you ride my trails are very mellow but sometimes high speed and big roots/rocks really seam to test beyond the shocks limits. I have the 140/140 so I guess just a 150 fork will increase bb height by a few millimeters, but will it be enough?
From what I`we read the Dhx2 is the coil that fits and won't scrub the top tube, if I decide to upgrade to 160mm.
140/140 the bb height is 336mm at 150 it’s approx 340mm running my Rise 160/140 with Ohlins rear coil makes for a very capable bike & don’t find rear that flexi & push the bike hard top 3 on local trails but do build my own wheels & my linkage has to be hit with rubber mallet to remove so a well built bike
theremotejuggernaut
Active member
I upped the travel on my Mezzer to 160. Didn't notice on the downs but it feels too light on the front on steep climbs so I'm going back to 150.
The answer to pedal strikes is shorter cranks.
If you think your bottoming out hard enough to crack the frame then either you need to set the shock up to your weight/ riding style or you're riding the wrong bike. More travel isn't the answer that everyone seems to think it is. Even if it was, you can't just up the shock size to get more travel. It doesn't work like that.
I know it doesn't answer your question but if you think you need 170mm travel and something that doesn't crack when you bottom out constantly, maybe you bought the wrong bike?
If you want, or think you need a 170mm Enduro bike then you're not exactly short on choices nowadays.
If you want to keep the Rise then upgrade the suspension or have what you've got tuned for your weight and riding style and remember that you're on a trail bike and ride accordingly.
The answer to pedal strikes is shorter cranks.
If you think your bottoming out hard enough to crack the frame then either you need to set the shock up to your weight/ riding style or you're riding the wrong bike. More travel isn't the answer that everyone seems to think it is. Even if it was, you can't just up the shock size to get more travel. It doesn't work like that.
I know it doesn't answer your question but if you think you need 170mm travel and something that doesn't crack when you bottom out constantly, maybe you bought the wrong bike?
If you want, or think you need a 170mm Enduro bike then you're not exactly short on choices nowadays.
If you want to keep the Rise then upgrade the suspension or have what you've got tuned for your weight and riding style and remember that you're on a trail bike and ride accordingly.
I def changed a lot to my Rise H. Every part of my H15 was swapped but here are the geo-centric upgrades. 170mm Zeb Ultimate, DHX2 Factory 8.5x2.5 in the rear. -1.2 degree 9point8 SlackR headset, 1 offset bushing on a full 29er. 165mm xt cranks. I do ride a ton of rocky terrain in NorCal, geo feels great. Geo below from a calculator w/ -1.2 degree headset. More than capable to ride anything I can imagine.
| head angle | 65.5° | 63.43° | -2.07° |
| seat angle | 76.5° | 75.92° | -.58° |
| wheelbase | 1229 mm | 1251.5 mm | +22.5mm |
| toptube (effective) | 619mm | 620.5mm | +1.5mm |
| bb height | 336mm | 340.5mm | +4.5mm |
Rod B.
Well-known member
Endurip,
Which model/travel fork and shock do you currently have on your Rise? Also, what is your weight, including ride gear? I can help you better if I know what you current setup is.
I have a large group of friends as riding partners. Many have had Rises at one time or another. I'm currently riding a Levo Carbon Comp with Zeb 170 fork and Fox X2 rear shock.
Dirty Harry once said, "A man's got to know his limitations", no shame in walking a section. Saint George Utah, Barrel Trail, the "Waterfall" section. The picture doesn't adequately show how steep and technical this section is. I'd describe it as a "High Consequence" feature.
My friends and I have learned a lot about the Rise and what it's capable through much experimentation. Interestingly, none of us ever used the exact same combination of components, everybody has a different setup. The type of terrain you ride and how you like to ride will dictate what works best for you.
Orbea identifies the Rise as a "Trail" bike. Orbea has stated it does not want Rise owners to increase fork travel to 160mm. In particular, the Rise Blue Paper (Owner's Manual) specifies a maximum fork length which is measured from the center of the fork axle to the top of the fork crown. Exceeding this maximum distance will void the frame warranty. Increasing fork travel to 160mm will exceed the maximum specified length. Sometimes, you just have to say the hell with it and roll the dice, live large, ya know.
There are several reasons for the 160mm fork travel prohibition. Any increase or decrease in fork travel will alter the Rise's head tube angle and thus impact the bike's handling characteristics. Additionally, increasing the Rise's travel to 160mm can increase stress loads on the frame's head tube. I ran a 160mm fork on my Rise. I beat the living shit out of my Rise and it's doing fine. However, if the frame cracks at the head tube, I'm guessing I'll be ass out in the warranty department.
You may wonder how the head tube angle impacts a bike's handling abilities? A steeper head tube angle will give a bike a quick steering response. The bike will handle tight turns and switchbacks better and will climb steeper terrain better. A steeper head tube angle will place the center of gravity on a bike more forward. There are negative aspects to a steep head tube angle. A steep head tube angle will cause a bike's steering to become twitchy or unstable at high speed. Additionally, a steeper head tube angle pushes the bike's center of gravity forward and creates a potential to go flying over the handlebars on a steep descent if you stick a wheel. A less steep "Slacker" head tube angle tends to slow a bikes steering response. This makes the bike very stable at higher speeds. A bike with a slacker head tube angle will descend better than a bike with a steep head tube angle. There are negative aspects to a slack head tube angle. On steep climbs, the bike's front wheel will become light and want to lift up off the ground or get twitchy. A slack head tube angle will cause a bike to be less nimble on tight turns and switchbacks.
So, what's a good fork travel and head tube angle for the Rise? It all depends on where you ride and how you like to ride.
The Rise M20 and Rise LTD come stock with a 140mm travel fork. The 140mm fork gives the bike a 66 degree head tube angle. By modern mountain bike standards, a 66 degree head tube angle is fairly steep. A steeper head tube angle is ideal for light duty, cross country, flow trail, type of riding. The Rise M10 or Rise Team model comes stock with a 150mm travel fork. This gives the Rise a "Trail" bike feel with a 65.5 degree head tube angle. 65.5 degrees isn't considered overly "Slack" by modern standards. A 65.5 degree angle is perfectly acceptable for "Trail" type riding where occasional chunk or slightly technical descents or climbs are encountered. Increasing fork travel to 160mm will give the Rise a head tube angle of approximately 65 degrees. For most trail conditions a 65 degree head tube angle will provide a happy medium of steering nimbleness and good descending capabilities.
If your home trails are mostly flow with tight turns, switchbacks and steepish climbs, I'd run a 150mm Rockshox Lyrik. The Lyrik with it's 35mm stanchions is slightly lighter than a Fox 36. If your trails tend to have some gnar, the occasional drop or jump and steepish technical descents, I'd run a Fox 36 160mm.
In regards to your rear shock. The Rise utilizes a 210mm x 55mm rear shock. 210mm refers to overall eye to eye shock length. The 55mm refers to shock stroke. As Remote Juggernaut says, you cannot increase rear shock travel by simply increasing shock length. To quote Juggernaut, "It doesn't work like that", the linkage arms ain't having it. There is a hack which BigJZ74 mentions. You can slightly increase rear travel by utilizing an offset rear shock bushing. A modified linkage arm option is offered by Cascade Components that will increase rear travel on the Rise to 150mm.
Rise Link (2020-2022) | US | Cascade Components
You asked (quite a lot) and here it finally is! This link is designed to increase travel to 150mm while significantly boosting progression. If you're wondering what this might be similar to, think Stumpjumper Evo link. The increase in progression allows you to keep a super light and active off...
cascadecomponents.bike
If your Rise came with the Fox DPS shock, then you need to give it a good cleaning and put it up for sale on Pink Bike. In truth, the DPS is a good shock, however it's a light duty shock, ideally suited for cross country trail riding. Unlike the DPX2 or Float X rear shock, the DPS does not have a piggyback reservoir which stores additional suspension oil like an enlarged radiator on a car. Without the piggyback reservoir, the DPS will overheat on prolonged technical trail. Once the oil becomes overly heated, the shock will lose it's suspension efficiency, i.e. you'll bottom out like a good thing.....
If your Rise came with the Fox DPX2, you need to give it a good cleaning and put it up for sale on Pink Bike. Okay, the DPX2 is a good shock provided you're a lightweight whippet thin rider whom anybody over 45 secretly hates. The DPX2 doesn't support the weight of a heavier rider, i.e. 190lbs and over. A heavier rider will need to add maximum air pressure or modify the shock either through custom tuning or volume spacers to get the shock to work. In 2019, I had a bad accident and nearly amputated my right foot. I couldn't walk for 18 months. At the time of my accident, I weighed 172 lbs at 6' 1" tall. The DPX2 worked really well for me. When I finally got back on my bike, I weighed 230 lbs. As a side note, you can't watch 18 months worth of Netflix and not gain weight...jus sayin....The DPX2 on my bike wasn't having it. To reach sag, I had to add maximum air pressure. The shock was crap and it felt like I was riding with locked out suspension. I messed with custom tuning via valving shims, I installed volume spacers, the works. It was a no go. Enter the Fox Float X.
As a side note, I now weigh 183 lbs. I canceled Netflix. Wahoo!
Fox realized they had a problem with the DPX2 supporting heavier riders. Enter the Fox Float X with it's larger piston and air can. The Float X has several other features that the DPX2 does not have. The Float X works well for heavier riders without having to max out air pressure on the shock.
Several of my buddies are running either a "Push" or Fox DHX2 coil shock. Coil shocks offer a superb plush ride. Unlike an air shock, once you dial in the spring rate on a coil shock, you can pretty much forget about the shock. They only real negative I see to a coil shock is the added weight of the shock and expense of buying/finding the correct spring. Also, coil shocks tend to be less "Poppy" than an air shock. This isn't a problem, unless you like to boost it off of every rock on a trail. You're on an eBike, who cares about weight....
In summation...hell this is a long message.....If your trails are fairly normal and don't look like the gates of hell, then go with 160mm cranks, a 150mm travel front fork and Fox Float X or equivalent Rockshox air shock. If your trail resembles the gates of hell and you routinely like to run over hikers, then go with a 160mm crank arm, Fox 36 160mm fork and a 210mm x 55mm coil rear shock.
My buddies in Hurricane Utah, on a Gooseberry Mesa group ride.
Monica with her M20 Rise on Gooseberry Mesa. Her husband Saul is rockin a Trek Rail
Saint George Utah, the Zen Trail. I'm on the left trying to suck in my stomach. My hair is sticking out of my helmet like a horn. Smooth operator....eMTB forum user Rusty Iron, Aka...Skinner, is in blue and riding a Santa Cruz Heckler. We felt sorry for Skinner and let him ride with us. Three Rises and a Santa Cruz Heckler.
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Thank you for your amazingly informative answer!Endurip,
Which model/travel fork and shock do you currently have on your Rise? Also, what is your weight, including ride gear? I can help you better if I know what you current setup is.
I have a large group of friends as riding partners. Many have had Rises at one time or another. I'm currently riding a Levo Carbon Comp with Zeb 170 fork and Fox X2 rear shock.
View attachment 125250
Dirty Harry once said, "A man's got to know his limitations", no shame in walking a section. Saint George Utah, Barrel Trail, the "Waterfall" section. The picture doesn't adequately show how steep and technical this section is. I'd describe it as a "High Consequence" feature.
View attachment 125251
My friends and I have learned a lot about the Rise and what it's capable through much experimentation. Interestingly, none of us ever used the exact same combination of components, everybody has a different setup. The type of terrain you ride and how you like to ride will dictate what works best for you.
Orbea identifies the Rise as a "Trail" bike. Orbea has stated it does not want Rise owners to increase fork travel to 160mm. In particular, the Rise Blue Paper (Owner's Manual) specifies a maximum fork length which is measured from the center of the fork axle to the top of the fork crown. Exceeding this maximum distance will void the frame warranty. Increasing fork travel to 160mm will exceed the maximum specified length. Sometimes, you just have to say the hell with it and roll the dice, live large, ya know.
View attachment 125248
There are several reasons for the 160mm fork travel prohibition. Any increase or decrease in fork travel will alter the Rise's head tube angle and thus impact the bike's handling characteristics. Additionally, increasing the Rise's travel to 160mm can increase stress loads on the frame's head tube. I ran a 160mm fork on my Rise. I beat the living shit out of my Rise and it's doing fine. However, if the frame cracks at the head tube, I'm guessing I'll be ass out in the warranty department.
You may wonder how the head tube angle impacts a bike's handling abilities? A steeper head tube angle will give a bike a quick steering response. The bike will handle tight turns and switchbacks better and will climb steeper terrain better. A steeper head tube angle will place the center of gravity on a bike more forward. There are negative aspects to a steep head tube angle. A steep head tube angle will cause a bike's steering to become twitchy or unstable at high speed. Additionally, a steeper head tube angle pushes the bike's center of gravity forward and creates a potential to go flying over the handlebars on a steep descent if you stick a wheel. A less steep "Slacker" head tube angle tends to slow a bikes steering response. This makes the bike very stable at higher speeds. A bike with a slacker head tube angle will descend better than a bike with a steep head tube angle. There are negative aspects to a slack head tube angle. On steep climbs, the bike's front wheel will become light and want to lift up off the ground or get twitchy. A slack head tube angle will cause a bike to be less nimble on tight turns and switchbacks.
So, what's a good fork travel and head tube angle for the Rise? It all depends on where you ride and how you like to ride.
The Rise M20 and Rise LTD come stock with a 140mm travel fork. The 140mm fork gives the bike a 66 degree head tube angle. By modern mountain bike standards, a 66 degree head tube angle is fairly steep. A steeper head tube angle is ideal for light duty, cross country, flow trail, type of riding. The Rise M10 or Rise Team model comes stock with a 150mm travel fork. This gives the Rise a "Trail" bike feel with a 65.5 degree head tube angle. 65.5 degrees isn't considered overly "Slack" by modern standards. A 65.5 degree angle is perfectly acceptable for "Trail" type riding where occasional chunk or slightly technical descents or climbs are encountered. Increasing fork travel to 160mm will give the Rise a head tube angle of approximately 65 degrees. For most trail conditions a 65 degree head tube angle will provide a happy medium of steering nimbleness and good descending capabilities.
If your home trails are mostly flow with tight turns, switchbacks and steepish climbs, I'd run a 150mm Rockshox Lyrik. The Lyrik with it's 35mm stanchions is slightly lighter than a Fox 36. If your trails tend to have some gnar, the occasional drop or jump and steepish technical descents, I'd run a Fox 36 160mm.
In regards to your rear shock. The Rise utilizes a 210mm x 55mm rear shock. 210mm refers to overall eye to eye shock length. The 55mm refers to shock stroke. As Remote Juggernaut says, you cannot increase rear shock travel by simply increasing shock length. To quote Juggernaut, "It doesn't work like that", the linkage arms ain't having it. There is a hack which BigJZ74 mentions. You can slightly increase rear travel by utilizing an offset rear shock bushing. A modified linkage arm option is offered by Cascade Components that will increase rear travel on the Rise to 150mm.
Rise Link (2020-2022) | US | Cascade Components
You asked (quite a lot) and here it finally is! This link is designed to increase travel to 150mm while significantly boosting progression. If you're wondering what this might be similar to, think Stumpjumper Evo link. The increase in progression allows you to keep a super light and active off...
If your Rise came with the Fox DPS shock, then you need to give it a good cleaning and put it up for sale on Pink Bike. In truth, the DPS is a good shock, however it's a light duty shock, ideally suited for cross country trail riding. Unlike the DPX2 or Float X rear shock, the DPS does not have a piggyback reservoir which stores additional suspension oil like an enlarged radiator on a car. Without the piggyback reservoir, the DPS will overheat on prolonged technical trail. Once the oil becomes overly heated, the shock will lose it's suspension efficiency, i.e. you'll bottom out like a good thing.....
If your Rise came with the Fox DPX2, you need to give it a good cleaning and put it up for sale on Pink Bike. Okay, the DPX2 is a good shock provided you're a lightweight whippet thin rider whom anybody over 45 secretly hates. The DPX2 doesn't support the weight of a heavier rider, i.e. 190lbs and over. A heavier rider will need to add maximum air pressure or modify the shock either through custom tuning or volume spacers to get the shock to work. In 2019, I had a bad accident and nearly amputated my right foot. I couldn't walk for 18 months. At the time of my accident, I weighed 172 lbs at 6' 1" tall. The DPX2 worked really well for me. When I finally got back on my bike, I weighed 230 lbs. As a side note, you can't watch 18 months worth of Netflix and not gain weight...jus sayin....The DPX2 on my bike wasn't having it. To reach sag, I had to add maximum air pressure. The shock was crap and it felt like I was riding with locked out suspension. I messed with custom tuning via valving shims, I installed volume spacers, the works. It was a no go. Enter the Fox Float X.
As a side note, I now weigh 183 lbs. I canceled Netflix. Wahoo!
Fox realized they had a problem with the DPX2 supporting heavier riders. Enter the Fox Float X with it's larger piston and air can. The Float X has several other features that the DPX2 does not have. The Float X works well for heavier riders without having to max out air pressure on the shock.
Several of my buddies are running either a "Push" or Fox DHX2 coil shock. Coil shocks offer a superb plush ride. Unlike an air shock, once you dial in the spring rate on a coil shock, you can pretty much forget about the shock. They only real negative I see to a coil shock is the added weight of the shock and expense of buying/finding the correct spring. Also, coil shocks tend to be less "Poppy" than an air shock. This isn't a problem, unless you like to boost it off of every rock on a trail. You're on an eBike, who cares about weight....
In summation...hell this is a long message.....If your trails are fairly normal and don't look like the gates of hell, then go with 160mm cranks, a 150mm travel front fork and Fox Float X or equivalent Rockshox air shock. If your trail resembles the gates of hell and you routinely like to run over hikers, then go with a 160mm crank arm, Fox 36 160mm fork and a 210mm x 55mm coil rear shock.
My buddies in Hurricane Utah, on a Gooseberry Mesa group ride.
View attachment 125246
Monica with her M20 Rise on Gooseberry Mesa. Her husband Saul is rockin a Trek Rail
View attachment 125249
Saint George Utah, the Zen Trail. I'm on the left trying to suck in my stomach. My hair is sticking out of my helmet like a horn. Smooth operator....eMTB forum user Rusty Iron, Aka...Skinner, is in blue and riding a Santa Cruz Heckler. We felt sorry for Skinner and let him ride with us. Three Rises and a Santa Cruz Heckler.
View attachment 125247
I know the basics of eye to eye, but never heard of the Rise link - seems very interesting. I have the budget model of Rise M20. I'm about 85 kg with gear. I do want the rise snappy but still keep the 20 back due to roll over speed and clearance. But the Rise link will not increase bb height? I would also prefer slacker head angle so with the link 160 in front, and no offset bushings required?
Thanx
Weezerj
Member
Currently running a Rise M20 with fox38 fork upgrade (160mm travel). Thinking about adding the cascade components linkage to get another 10mm in rear...
Rod B.
Well-known member
Endurip,
The Cascade linkage increases travel from 140mm to 150mm through the design of the linkage. It's my understanding from talking to Cascade, bottom bracket height isn't altered, it remains the same. I like that you can increase travel and not have to buy a new shock to use Cascade's linkage. Regardless of what suspension setup you decide upon, dump the 170mm crank arms.
Be safe,
Rod
ebsocalmtb
Active member
Been quite in here lately... I think my rise has reached it's final form now. Planning on keeping it for another riding season (12 months or so) then moving onto something else if something else is available. For reference, my riding weight is 185lbs.
My build is pretty specific... I wanted a lighter weight, all mountain style build. I specifically kept aluminum bars, aluminum cranks and aluminum wheels for durability and insurance while on long back-country rides. I do a lot of very big days on this where I am riding in eco/trail only and I bring 2 range extenders with me (one in a pack). Because of that, I need everything to be bullet proof and light weight parts aren't the path forward.
My build ended up the following:
-XL - Mullet Configuration - 360wh battery (w/2 range extenders as needed)
-Suspension: 2020 Fox 36 @ 160mm with acs3 55lb spring (black), 2021 Fox DHX2 Tuned & Modified by fluid focus - 8.5x2.5 w/1 offset bushing, Cascade components link, sprindex 500-550 spring set to 540lb.
-Drivetrain/Wheels: GX Axs w/north shore billet derailleur hanger, Shimano XT Cranks 160mm, Shimano Spider & 34t Chainring, GX eagle cassette, x01 chain, EX 511 wheels - dt350 hubs, 2.5 Maxxis Assegai front/rear with cushcore pro front/rear.
-Brakes: Code RS, 200mm HS2 Rotors, Metallic Pads
-Ergonomics: PNW Loam Alu 31.8 bar, PNW Grips, Spank 43mm stem, WTB Koda Wide Saddle, Oneup 210mm V2 Dropper, wolftooth la dropper lever, Crank Brothers Mallet DH Pedals, VC Guards brush guards
-Misc: Oneup EDC lite in steer tube, evoc medium frame bag, mughugger large fender
My build is pretty specific... I wanted a lighter weight, all mountain style build. I specifically kept aluminum bars, aluminum cranks and aluminum wheels for durability and insurance while on long back-country rides. I do a lot of very big days on this where I am riding in eco/trail only and I bring 2 range extenders with me (one in a pack). Because of that, I need everything to be bullet proof and light weight parts aren't the path forward.
My build ended up the following:
-XL - Mullet Configuration - 360wh battery (w/2 range extenders as needed)
-Suspension: 2020 Fox 36 @ 160mm with acs3 55lb spring (black), 2021 Fox DHX2 Tuned & Modified by fluid focus - 8.5x2.5 w/1 offset bushing, Cascade components link, sprindex 500-550 spring set to 540lb.
-Drivetrain/Wheels: GX Axs w/north shore billet derailleur hanger, Shimano XT Cranks 160mm, Shimano Spider & 34t Chainring, GX eagle cassette, x01 chain, EX 511 wheels - dt350 hubs, 2.5 Maxxis Assegai front/rear with cushcore pro front/rear.
-Brakes: Code RS, 200mm HS2 Rotors, Metallic Pads
-Ergonomics: PNW Loam Alu 31.8 bar, PNW Grips, Spank 43mm stem, WTB Koda Wide Saddle, Oneup 210mm V2 Dropper, wolftooth la dropper lever, Crank Brothers Mallet DH Pedals, VC Guards brush guards
-Misc: Oneup EDC lite in steer tube, evoc medium frame bag, mughugger large fender
You must be good for 60 or 70 miles at leastBeen quite in here lately... I think my rise has reached it's final form now. Planning on keeping it for another riding season (12 months or so) then moving onto something else if something else is available. For reference, my riding weight is 185lbs.
My build is pretty specific... I wanted a lighter weight, all mountain style build. I specifically kept aluminum bars, aluminum cranks and aluminum wheels for durability and insurance while on long back-country rides. I do a lot of very big days on this where I am riding in eco/trail only and I bring 2 range extenders with me (one in a pack). Because of that, I need everything to be bullet proof and light weight parts aren't the path forward.
My build ended up the following:
-XL - Mullet Configuration - 360wh battery (w/2 range extenders as needed)
-Suspension: 2020 Fox 36 @ 160mm with acs3 55lb spring (black), 2021 Fox DHX2 Tuned & Modified by fluid focus - 8.5x2.5 w/1 offset bushing, Cascade components link, sprindex 500-550 spring set to 540lb.
-Drivetrain/Wheels: GX Axs w/north shore billet derailleur hanger, Shimano XT Cranks 160mm, Shimano Spider & 34t Chainring, GX eagle cassette, x01 chain, EX 511 wheels - dt350 hubs, 2.5 Maxxis Assegai front/rear with cushcore pro front/rear.
-Brakes: Code RS, 200mm HS2 Rotors, Metallic Pads
-Ergonomics: PNW Loam Alu 31.8 bar, PNW Grips, Spank 43mm stem, WTB Koda Wide Saddle, Oneup 210mm V2 Dropper, wolftooth la dropper lever, Crank Brothers Mallet DH Pedals, VC Guards brush guards
-Misc: Oneup EDC lite in steer tube, evoc medium frame bag, mughugger large fender
? .
ebsocalmtb
Active member
You must be good for 60 or 70 miles at least
I usually run out of range due to climbing before mileage. I can usually get about 6,000' of elevation gain out of the built in batter and the range extender, around 8,500-9,000' if I'm carrying the second range extender. That usually ends up around 20-35 miles or so. A lot of the climbs I do when I'm doing back-country riding are around 3,000' in about 4-6 miles.
Lot of height that . Levo on eco would get 45 miles 3000 ft climbing but that's easy climbing. Steeper rides maybe get about 23 miles with 5300 feet climbing . 700 battery no extender available for levo or it would open up a lot of long hill routes I fancy doing. Down side of ebike is the battery range sometimes . Wouldn't manage that miles on manual bike now I'm older.
jbrown15
Well-known member
You're running a Cascade link along with the offset bushing and a longer shock?Been quite in here lately... I think my rise has reached it's final form now. Planning on keeping it for another riding season (12 months or so) then moving onto something else if something else is available. For reference, my riding weight is 185lbs.
My build is pretty specific... I wanted a lighter weight, all mountain style build. I specifically kept aluminum bars, aluminum cranks and aluminum wheels for durability and insurance while on long back-country rides. I do a lot of very big days on this where I am riding in eco/trail only and I bring 2 range extenders with me (one in a pack). Because of that, I need everything to be bullet proof and light weight parts aren't the path forward.
My build ended up the following:
-XL - Mullet Configuration - 360wh battery (w/2 range extenders as needed)
-Suspension: 2020 Fox 36 @ 160mm with acs3 55lb spring (black), 2021 Fox DHX2 Tuned & Modified by fluid focus - 8.5x2.5 w/1 offset bushing, Cascade components link, sprindex 500-550 spring set to 540lb.
-Drivetrain/Wheels: GX Axs w/north shore billet derailleur hanger, Shimano XT Cranks 160mm, Shimano Spider & 34t Chainring, GX eagle cassette, x01 chain, EX 511 wheels - dt350 hubs, 2.5 Maxxis Assegai front/rear with cushcore pro front/rear.
-Brakes: Code RS, 200mm HS2 Rotors, Metallic Pads
-Ergonomics: PNW Loam Alu 31.8 bar, PNW Grips, Spank 43mm stem, WTB Koda Wide Saddle, Oneup 210mm V2 Dropper, wolftooth la dropper lever, Crank Brothers Mallet DH Pedals, VC Guards brush guards
-Misc: Oneup EDC lite in steer tube, evoc medium frame bag, mughugger large fender
How much rear travel does that give? I know the link bumps it up to 150mm and just running the offset bushing with the longer shock would give the Rise a 160mm?
So what's the travel with both of those?
NuckaMan
Member
Hey, looks like we have the Rise for similar reasons. I find the same, sustained elevation gain smokes the battery, even in Eco mode, which I keep in pretty much exclusively.
For example, one of the 1st major long distance rides I did was a trail called Palm Canyon Epic, which is typically shuttled. The climb up, which was about 18 miles/5500ft elevation consumed 1 Range Extender and tapped into about 50% of the main battery. To complete the ride, which was about 50 miles/7500ft elevation, consumed 2 Range Extenders with about 15% of main battery left, all in Eco mode.
Kevlasultanpus
Member
post a strava of your big rides...love to know what miles you are doing with 2 extenders.Been quite in here lately... I think my rise has reached it's final form now. Planning on keeping it for another riding season (12 months or so) then moving onto something else if something else is available. For reference, my riding weight is 185lbs.
My build is pretty specific... I wanted a lighter weight, all mountain style build. I specifically kept aluminum bars, aluminum cranks and aluminum wheels for durability and insurance while on long back-country rides. I do a lot of very big days on this where I am riding in eco/trail only and I bring 2 range extenders with me (one in a pack). Because of that, I need everything to be bullet proof and light weight parts aren't the path forward.
My build ended up the following:
-XL - Mullet Configuration - 360wh battery (w/2 range extenders as needed)
-Suspension: 2020 Fox 36 @ 160mm with acs3 55lb spring (black), 2021 Fox DHX2 Tuned & Modified by fluid focus - 8.5x2.5 w/1 offset bushing, Cascade components link, sprindex 500-550 spring set to 540lb.
-Drivetrain/Wheels: GX Axs w/north shore billet derailleur hanger, Shimano XT Cranks 160mm, Shimano Spider & 34t Chainring, GX eagle cassette, x01 chain, EX 511 wheels - dt350 hubs, 2.5 Maxxis Assegai front/rear with cushcore pro front/rear.
-Brakes: Code RS, 200mm HS2 Rotors, Metallic Pads
-Ergonomics: PNW Loam Alu 31.8 bar, PNW Grips, Spank 43mm stem, WTB Koda Wide Saddle, Oneup 210mm V2 Dropper, wolftooth la dropper lever, Crank Brothers Mallet DH Pedals, VC Guards brush guards
-Misc: Oneup EDC lite in steer tube, evoc medium frame bag, mughugger large fender
Probably my last ride before my warranty frame and motor swap…. Fox 38 180/Fox DHX2 8.5x2.5 w/ one offset bushing and Cascade link, SRAM X01 drivetrain, XT Cranks, RF NextR 35 Bars/Turbine R35 40mm stem, and SC Reserve wheels w/ Hydra hubs. Replacement frame is Mulberry so Red bits are being swapped to Black
H30 2023. Mulleted with DVO Topaz shock and DT M1900 wheel. Fox 36 & 160mm with DT M1900 up front. DHF 2.5 & DHR 2.4 rubber. Hope E4 brakes with 200mm front rotor. The rear rotor is stock as I yet to figure how to match the Hope rotor with magnet properly. Deathgrip grips & Magped pedals from my previous bike. And replaced the stock saddle with one I had lying around the first day.
In plans, I have short cranks, OneUp carbon handlebar, XT cassette and shifter.
In plans, I have short cranks, OneUp carbon handlebar, XT cassette and shifter.
doochenozzle
Member
Stoked owner of a 2023 H10 Rise. Extensive upgrades and swaps, including Push shock and Mezzer fork presently at 160mm and 160mm crankarms. Latest kick is to try 220mm rotors, which fit with a few mm to spare on the back. I'm likely to give it a shot and listen/look for rubbing. I don't think I'm flexing the rear end much, but we'll see I guess... anyone else actually tried this?
When I tried the rotor cut into the frame at the chainstay. If you zoom in on the pic from my post 4 spots earlier, you can see where I covered the damage with a sticker.
Last edited:
doochenozzle
Member
gotcha - you mean this photo?
are the stays on your bike carbon or alloy on the M20? it's probably a bad idea, but I'm tempted anyway. that, and/or maybe file 2mm of the tabs where the rotor mounts to the hub to bring it in a little.
ebsocalmtb
Active member
That is a very bad idea. that's possible if you use a lathe or bridgeport and are certain that they tabs are square to each other. If you were to do it by hand, that is almost certainly a way to trash a rear hub. Fwiw, I run my rise in some of the steepest terrain there is, I weigh 175lbs, my rise is 46lbs and I ride EXTREMELY hard and fast. I have not had brake temperate issues with 200mm sram hs2 rotors and metallic pads.
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