Rise Up - What are your upgrades?

[BiGJZ74]

gotcha - you mean this photo?
are the stays on your bike carbon or alloy on the M20? it's probably a bad idea, but I'm tempted anyway. that, and/or maybe file 2mm of the tabs where the rotor mounts to the hub to bring it in a little.
View attachment 141418

It was an h15, had been carbon it may not have survived, there was a gap as well of about 2 mm and it looked like it’d be OK but rub during cornering with the rear flex

 

[DarrenCC]

I would not recommend going 170. It's most likely going to be bad when climbing and your sitting position will be too far back off the bike.
you can use this tool to figure out new geo:

bike-stats - everything about bike geometry

Use this app to compare bike geometries of different manufacturers with each other, in order to determine the most suitable bike for your personal requirements.

www.bike-stats.de

It's never going to be a mini enduro IMO. The rear end is very flexy and I'm not sure it will hold up that well to continual abuse and you can only change the geo so much until you begin having issues with BB heigh, seat tube position, reach etc etc

I’m running 160 rear 170mm front and it’s entirely rideable, depending what you ride. I took it out to 170 after my last trip to coed y brenin and BPW, but I am only hitting tame local stuff at the moment so I’m going to take the fork back to 160 and probably leave it there for the foreseeable. I have never really noticed undue rear end flex so whatever flex there is, I’m quite happy to live with.

The guy looking to change his rotors to 220, sounds like you need to change your brakes or your braking habits/ maintenance. I’m running the basic twin pot Deore brakes on 200mm rotors and they are powerful enough. No need to trash your frame for a needless flex

 

[goldencore]

I got a new 2022 H30 with 50% discount in December. Since then I swapped every part apart from the rear derailleur and the dropper post lever. This somehow got out of hand...
It's a large frame with
- RF Turbine R30 wheels, Specialized Butcher T9 front, Vittoria Mazza Trail rear with Tannus Armour insert in the rear, both tubeless
- Shimano 6120 brakes with 203 rotors front (Formula) and rear (Magura Storm HC)
- 32T VXM chainring mounted on an Ochain with Shimano 165mm cranks
- KMC Chain, GX rear cassette (the Turbine wheels came with XD driver) working nicely with the original SLX derailleur
- Suntour Durolux EQ 36 fork (150mm, comes with bolt on fender) and Suntour Triair rear shock with Huber Bushings (wanted to try something else and got both new via private sale quite cheap)
- DXC Two 200mm dropper, Ergon SM saddle with carbon rails
- Truvativ Hussfelt stem and Lapierre 785mm, 30mm rise bar, SRAM foam grips
- Normally I run Time Speciale pedals, but it was so damn cold that I had to ride winter shoes on Sprudec Flat Pedals
- I made a protection for the linkage gap out of an old inner tube and added a Cube rear fender.

I am 185cm and weigh 80kg. On my cheap scale the bike has 22.5kg, which is a bit heavier than I would have liked, but what I saved on weight on the wheels I made up for with the heavy fork. I only had two proper rides with the bike, so far and I liked it a lot. Still have problems with the fork bottoming out easily. Despite the weight I am curious to check out a coil shock (maybe a Bomber CR).

 

[theremotejuggernaut]

I got a new 2022 H30 with 50% discount in December. Since then I swapped every part apart from the rear derailleur and the dropper post lever. This somehow got out of hand...
It's a large frame with
- RF Turbine R30 wheels, Specialized Butcher T9 front, Vittoria Mazza Enduro rear with Tannus Armour insert in the rear, both tubeless
- Shimano 6120 brakes with 203 rotors front (Formula) and rear (Magura Storm HC)
- 32T VXM chainring mounted on an Ochain with Shimano 165mm cranks
- KMC Chain, GX rear cassette (the Turbine wheels came with XD driver) working nicely with the original SLX derailleur
- Suntour Durolux EQ 36 fork (150mm, comes with bolt on fender) and Suntour Triair rear shock with Huber Bushings (wanted to try something else and got both new via private sale quite cheap)
- DXC Two 200mm dropper, Ergon SM saddle with carbon rails
- Truvativ Hussfelt stem and Lapierre 785mm, 30mm rise bar, SRAM foam grips
- Normally I run Time Speciale pedals, but it was so damn cold that I had to ride winter shoes on Sprudec Flat Pedals
- I made a protection for the linkage gap out of an old inner tube and added a Cube rear fender.

I am 185cm and weigh 80kg. On my cheap scale the bike has 22.5kg, which is a bit heavier as I would have liked, but what I saved on weight on the wheels I made up for with the heavy fork. I only had two proper rides with the bike, so far and I liked it a lot. Still have problems with the fork bottoming out easily. Despite the weight I am curious to check out a coil shock (maybe a Bomber CR).

View attachment 153603
View attachment 153604

How are you finding the Suntour fork and shock? I've was thinking about the Triair rear a while ago. From what I remember, it's basically a cheaper version of the DVO Topaz but with an IFP instead of the diaphragm?

How's the Durolux? I'm always keen to hear about anything that isn't Fockshox.

 

[goldencore]

The Triair really seems to be very close to the DVO Topaz 2 and also the volume spacers fit. The shock felt very good on my first rides. I have two spacers in the positive chamber, but one might be enough. Changing them is easy and can be done on the bike:
I am still struggeling a bit with the Durolux. On my first ride it was going to the travel much to fast and I bottomed out on a smallish drop. I increased the air pressure and played around with the volume spacers a bit, but I am not really there yet. It was to cold to do bracketing on all the dials, that will have to wait for springtime. The fork feels stiff and is also a bit on the heavy side, but I think when I get it dialed properly, it will perform well.
It has bleeding ports on the back where you can add a little bit of oil, if you'd like, because there is no oil, just grease in the lower legs in the factory setting. One should also keep in mind that the A2C of this fork ist almost 1cm longer than on a lyrik e.g., so the change in geometry is a bit bigger. I got both items new for a very good price (160€ for the shock and 250€ for the fork).

 

[theremotejuggernaut]

The Triair really seems to be very close to the DVO Topaz 2 and also the volume spacers fit. The shock felt very good on my first rides. I have two spacers in the positive chamber, but one might be enough. Changing them is easy and can be done on the bike:
I am still struggeling a bit with the Durolux. On my first ride it was going to the travel much to fast and I bottomed out on a smallish drop. I increased the air pressure and played around with the volume spacers a bit, but I am not really there yet. It was to cold to do bracketing on all the dials, that will have to wait for springtime. The fork feels stiff and is also a bit on the heavy side, but I think when I get it dialed properly, it will perform well.
It has bleeding ports on the back where you can add a little bit of oil, if you'd like, because there is no oil, just grease in the lower legs in the factory setting. One should also keep in mind that the A2C of this fork ist almost 1cm longer than on a lyrik e.g., so the change in geometry is a bit bigger. I got both items new for a very good price (160€ for the shock and 250€ for the fork).

So there's no oil in the lowers at all? Just grease on the bushes?

 

[goldencore]

No, there is no oil. Suntour says you can add, I think, up to 5ml via the bleed ports.
In another forum some people run the fork with oil, some without. There doesn't seem to be a consensus what's better.
Having no oil makes a lower leg service really hassle free, I guess.
As my fork is new, I haven't pulled the lowers off, yet.