Rise Up - What are your upgrades?

[Weezerj]

Started off with Rise M20: (I'll post pics tonight)
Ice Tech 203mm front and back
raceface Arc30 heavy duty rear wheel
Ride wrap
One up carbon bars (+35mm rise)
Fox 38 (love this fork)
Tires upgraded to maxxis minion DH DDs

The larger 203mm rotors helped with stopping power, but I still get brake fade on big DH runs (I'm 240 lbs). Looking for solutions....not sure if I should go SLX7120 4 piston brakes or go all out and try TRPs.

 

[BiGJZ74]

Started off with Rise M20: (I'll post pics tonight)
Ice Tech 203mm front and back
raceface Arc30 heavy duty rear wheel
Ride wrap
One up carbon bars (+35mm rise)
Fox 38 (love this fork)
Tires upgraded to maxxis minion DH DDs

The larger 203mm rotors helped with stopping power, but I still get brake fade on big DH runs (I'm 240 lbs). Looking for solutions....not sure if I should go SLX7120 4 piston brakes or go all out and try TRPs.

I run XT 8120's and they work just fine. 7120's are the exact same caliper w/ a different finish. I run 220/203 rotors and got you by 70lbs. TRP's are pretty nice though... I've got a set of 7120's that were take offs on my Rail. I was gonna run them on my Deviate Claymore build, but ordered MT-7s instead.

 

[theremotejuggernaut]

Started off with Rise M20: (I'll post pics tonight)
Ice Tech 203mm front and back
raceface Arc30 heavy duty rear wheel
Ride wrap
One up carbon bars (+35mm rise)
Fox 38 (love this fork)
Tires upgraded to maxxis minion DH DDs

The larger 203mm rotors helped with stopping power, but I still get brake fade on big DH runs (I'm 240 lbs). Looking for solutions....not sure if I should go SLX7120 4 piston brakes or go all out and try TRPs.

If you're brakes are fading, that's about heat build up rather than a lack of power. If you've already got Ice Tech discs then 7120s with finned pads will help. As a system, it works quite well. While you might still experience fade, the system seems to recover (cool down) far quicker.

Do you have the standard shimano 2 piston calipers at the moment? What pads? If resin then even swapping to metal might help.

I have read that finned pads from older model brakes will fit the newer deore type calipers so something like a J02A pad might fit your caliper and give you the heat dissipation without needing to swap calipers.

If you feel like you need more power then 4 pots are a good idea. Again, you can (apparently) fit H03c pads into M6120 calipers which would be the cheapest route to get 4 pots. MT520s should be the same. I haven't actually tried as I've not yet managed to fade my 6120s.

 

[Rod B.]

Started off with Rise M20: (I'll post pics tonight)
Ice Tech 203mm front and back
raceface Arc30 heavy duty rear wheel
Ride wrap
One up carbon bars (+35mm rise)
Fox 38 (love this fork)
Tires upgraded to maxxis minion DH DDs

The larger 203mm rotors helped with stopping power, but I still get brake fade on big DH runs (I'm 240 lbs). Looking for solutions....not sure if I should go SLX7120 4 piston brakes or go all out and try TRPs.

Weezerj

What everybody has said above works. I would absolutely go with Shimano four piston calipers. The Deore two piston calipers are good, but inadequate for eBike use and your weight.

Your Rise M20 comes from the factory with Shimano BH90 brake hose which has a straight fitting at the brake lever and straight fitting at the caliper. Shimano four piston caliper models SLX and above use a banjo style brake hose fitting. Shimano makes the Deore four piston caliper which accepts the BH90 straight fitting on your bike. My buddy weighs 260 pounds and his Rise has four piston Deore calipers. They work beautifully. If you do wish to switch to SLX and above, you will need to replace the front and rear brake hose. Check out my tech article series on Rise Shimano Brakes, Part # 2. It has a section on how to replace Rise brake hose without having to drop the motor.

PART # 2: SHIMANO BRAKE SYSTEM – Orbea Rise Brake System Modification

This technical article is the second installment in a two part series on Shimano brake systems. Refer to “Part # 1: Shimano Brake System Service”, for information on bleeding and servicing Shimano brakes and brake pad compounds...

www.emtbforums.com

I've experimented with a lot of brake pads, Shimano, Jagwire, Galfer, etc. I've used both Resin and Metallic. However....the best pads I've ever used and what I am currently using are MTX brake pads, "Red Label Race Pads."

Red Label RACE Brake Pads - MTX Braking

A premium ceramic-based brake pad compound for mountain and road bikes designed to provide outstanding performance across all conditions.

mtxbraking.com

MTX Brake pads are made out of Ceramic and Kevlar. Brake modulation and control is absolutely superb. They feel and stop much better than metallic. Thus far, my experience with the MTX Red label Race pads has been that they exhibit zero brake fade and zero noise. My buddy weighs 260 pounds. I talked him into using them and he loves them.

MTX makes a heavier duty Gold Label brake pad for heavier riders and or conditions. I've tried this pad to see how they work. They offer good stopping power and are very durable, i.e. last forever. However, I found they tended to be noisy in humid conditions and brake modulation wasn't as good as the Red Label, which is superb.

Gold Label HD Brake Pads - MTX Braking

A premium ceramic brake pad compound for mountain and road bikes designed to provide outstanding performance across all conditions.

mtxbraking.com

I hope this all helps, cheers,
Rod

 

[YokoOno]

I've experimented with a lot of brake pads, Shimano, Jagwire, Galfer, etc. I've used both Resin and Metallic. However....the best pads I've ever used and what I am currently using are MTX brake pads, "Red Label Race Pads."

Red Label RACE Brake Pads - MTX Braking

A premium ceramic-based brake pad compound for mountain and road bikes designed to provide outstanding performance across all conditions.

mtxbraking.com

MTX Brake pads are made out of Ceramic and Kevlar. Brake modulation and control is absolutely superb. They feel and stop much better than metallic. Thus far, my experience with the MTX Red label Race pads has been that they exhibit zero brake fade and zero noise. My buddy weighs 260 pounds. I talked him into using them and he loves them.

MTX makes a heavier duty Gold Label brake pad for heavier riders and or conditions. I've tried this pad to see how they work. They offer good stopping power and are very durable, i.e. last forever. However, I found they tended to be noisy in humid conditions and brake modulation wasn't as good as the Red Label, which is superb.

Gold Label HD Brake Pads - MTX Braking

A premium ceramic brake pad compound for mountain and road bikes designed to provide outstanding performance across all conditions.

mtxbraking.com

I hope this all helps, cheers,
Rod

I'll second the recommendation for MTX pads.
Compared with Shimano metallic, both pads are much quieter and offer better modulation.

I went through a brake pad journey recently with both red & gold mtx, as well as the blue DH ceramic pads from Hard Headed Ram

Agreed, MTX red is dead silent and modulates superbly well, but isn't quite as powerful as Gold or OEM shimano. Gold seldom makes noise and is quieter than OEM, but not as quiet as red.

In theory, gold should be more fade resistant than red but I can't say I've had significant fade with either.

I recently started mixing pads. Gold on the inboard piston (which wears more quickly), Red on the outboard - this seems to offer a great combo of power, modulation and silence. Tech at MTX made this suggestion and I dig it. And it helps me to maximize life on the two sets of reds & golds that I already purchased.

The hard headed ram blue DH is similar to MTX Gold, and are CHEAP. I need to play around with it more but found them to be quieter than OEM metallic and at least as powerful, if not more so, than MTX Gold

Shimano Archives

Shop Shimano Pads in our online store bicycle brakes & accessories for the best price. From California, to the whole country.

hardheadedram.bike

It's worth noting that I ride front range CO, which is super-dry. So experiences in wetter/humid climates are likely to differ.

 

[iLuveKetchup]

I run/ran MTX Red on XT & XTR calipers on the Rise and Yeti SB130. I like the performance, but there is something happening where the pads get glazed before they reach the end of their pad life. I can't get them back to performing even after cleaning/sanding.

But also run MTX Red on my Trek Session DH bike and never had an issue. Really odd.

 

[Rod B.]

I'll second the recommendation for MTX pads.
Compared with Shimano metallic, both pads are much quieter and offer better modulation.

I went through a brake pad journey recently and both red & gold mtx, as well as the blue DH ceramic pads from Hard Headed Ram

Agreed, MTX red is dead silent and modulates superbly well, but isn't quite as powerful as Gold or OEM shimano. Gold seldom makes noise and is quieter than OEM, but not as quiet as red.

In theory, gold should be more fade resistant than red but I can't say I've had significant fade with either.

I recently started mixing pads. Gold on the inboard piston (which wears more quickly), Red on the outboard - this seems to offer a great combo of power, modulation and silence. Tech at MTX made this suggestion and I dig it. And it helps me to maximize life on the two sets of reds & golds that I already purchased.

The hard headed ram blue DH is similar to MTX Gold, and are CHEAP. I need to play around with it more but found them to be quieter than OEM metallic and at least as powerful, if not more so, than MTX Gold

Shimano Archives

Shop Shimano Pads in our online store bicycle brakes & accessories for the best price. From California, to the whole country.

hardheadedram.bike

It's worth noting that I ride front range CO, which is super-dry. So experiences in wetter/humid climates are likely to differ.

YokoOno,
Great write up, I'll give the Gold/Red combination a try.

 

[ebsocalmtb]

Just about done messing around with my rise. I recently moved my gx axs setup from my enduro bike over to my rise and I'm now messing around dialing in a mullet setup.

Typical setup:
XL Rise M20 (starting point)
Suspension: Fox Factory 36 @ 160mm with Vorsprung Luftkappe - Fox Factory Float X 210x55 with custom comp/rebound tune
Drivetrain: GX AXS Derailleur/Shifter - Shimano SLX Cassette - XT Chain - Shimano 34t Chainring/Spider - XT Cranks
Cockpit/Touchpoints: XT Pedals, WTB Koda Wide Saddle, Oneup 210mm Dropper, PNW Bars/Grips, Spank 43mm stem
Brakes: Code RSC - Metallic Pads - 200mm Rotors

For wheels and tires I share wheelsets between this bike and my enduro/park bike.
Trail/All mountain = BTLOS 30iw Carbon - DT350 - 2.5 Assegai 3cmt Front - 2.4 DHR 2 DC in back - Cushcore XC
Park = DT Swiss EX511 Front/Rear - DT 350 - 2.5 Assegai 3cmg Front - 2.5 Assegai 3cmt - Cushcore pro
Mullet = DT Swiss EX511 Front - DT350 - 2.5 Assegai 3cmg Front - 2.6 DHR 2 DC back - Tannus Armor in back cc pro in front

Currently dialing in the mullet setup with a DVO Jade shock. I've done some re-shimming of that shock to suit my style/needs and I'm messing around with offset bushings. So far, 1 - 2mm offset bushing in the 215x63 jade and the mullet rear wheel with the 2.6 tire, keeps the bb about 4mm lower then it would otherwise be with the stock 29r setup.

General trail Bike Setup:

Mullet Setup:

 

[BiGJZ74]

Just about done messing around with my rise. I recently moved my gx axs setup from my enduro bike over to my rise and I'm now messing around dialing in a mullet setup.

Typical setup:
XL Rise M20 (starting point)
Suspension: Fox Factory 36 @ 160mm with Vorsprung Luftkappe - Fox Factory Float X 210x55 with custom comp/rebound tune
Drivetrain: GX AXS Derailleur/Shifter - Shimano SLX Cassette - XT Chain - Shimano 34t Chainring/Spider - XT Cranks
Cockpit/Touchpoints: XT Pedals, WTB Koda Wide Saddle, Oneup 210mm Dropper, PNW Bars/Grips, Spank 43mm stem
Brakes: Code RSC - Metallic Pads - 200mm Rotors

For wheels and tires I share wheelsets between this bike and my enduro/park bike.
Trail/All mountain = BTLOS 30iw Carbon - DT350 - 2.5 Assegai 3cmt Front - 2.4 DHR 2 DC in back - Cushcore XC
Park = DT Swiss EX511 Front/Rear - DT 350 - 2.5 Assegai 3cmg Front - 2.5 Assegai 3cmt - Cushcore pro
Mullet = DT Swiss EX511 Front - DT350 - 2.5 Assegai 3cmg Front - 2.6 DHR 2 DC back - Tannus Armor in back cc pro in front

Currently dialing in the mullet setup with a DVO Jade shock. I've done some re-shimming of that shock to suit my style/needs and I'm messing around with offset bushings. So far, 1 - 2mm offset bushing in the 215x63 jade and the mullet rear wheel with the 2.6 tire, keeps the bb about 4mm lower then it would otherwise be with the stock 29r setup.

General trail Bike Setup:

Mullet Setup:

What Frame bag r u running?

 

[BobR]

What Frame bag r u running?

I was going to ask the same thing!

 

[ebsocalmtb]

That's an evoc multi-frame pack. The Medium size is a tight fit on an XL but it does fit right in there. For S/M/L I would go for the small evoc pack... that's what I use on my wife's medium m20.

 

[rvca_zr]

Anyone here fit a PNW dropper lever on a H15? if so did you just need the lever or the cable kit also?

 

[lonelydriver]

Hey All would this 160MM fox factory 36 fit on my H15?

Fox 36 FLOAT Factory Grip 2 29 2022 | Jenson USA

www.jensonusa.com

Second question, would going from the 150mm to the 160mm really throw off the riding dynamics?
The fork is currently $500 off so it's tempting.

 

[Shjay]

Hey All would this 160MM fox factory 36 fit on my H15?

Fox 36 FLOAT Factory Grip 2 29 2022 | Jenson USA

www.jensonusa.com

Second question, would going from the 150mm to the 160mm really throw off the riding dynamics?
The fork is currently $500 off so it's tempting.

Yes the Fox 36 would fit fine, regarding second question I have always run my M20 at 160mm I removed the Fox 34 before riding the bike, but I don’t like Fox suspension

 

[cookie70]

would going from the 150mm to the 160mm really throw off the riding dynamics?

no, I rekon its a worthy upgrade! I should have done mine when I first got it rather then just recently

 

[Stanley]

That's an evoc multi-frame pack. The Medium size is a tight fit on an XL but it does fit right in there. For S/M/L I would go for the small evoc pack... that's what I use on my wife's medium m20.

The Evoc size medium fits in a large frame quite nicely if you flip the pack upside down!
It does mean having to loosen the straps before opening the zip due to the Rise's chunky downtube. No big deal... The only stuff I have in the pack is the kit I hope to never need... Inner tube, co2, levers,etc.

 

[volts]

Too many changes to list them all, but I recently went full 27.5 front and rear, and it's actually pretty cool. It makes it possible to run 180mm front travel and 160 rear. It's obviously not great for all trails, but for really steep rough stuff it's super fun and the steering feels tighter.

27 f/r isn't for everyone, but it sure is for me right now.

I do notice it feeling a bit slower on some bits of trail, but for me handling and having most fun matters more than going the fastest on flow.

 

[javigongon]

Hi guys,

Finally, i can say that i have the bike just as i want it, still thinking about upgrading to carbon wheels, but the turbines are giving a good service, so let see.

It´s a M10 with the following upgrades:
- Magura MT7 Pro with Hope 220/203 rotors
- Fork with Vorsprung luftkappe air piston, oem mudguard, kabolt axle and Slik Graphics custom decals.
- SRAM X01 AXS with wireless blipers
- Fox Transfer factory 175mm
- Raceface Turbine R stem
- Shimano FC-M8150 crancks

Feel free to ask if you want any opinion with the components

 

[NorthernBloke]

Not really an upgrade or is it.

Motor gave up the ghost and replaced under warranty.

Looked to me it was replaced by a standard EP8 motor, hooked up to app and yep I am getting the fulling 85nm of torque as apposed to the 65nm on the EP8rs.

Battery is potentially going to get hit if I use Turbo a lot but I don't do mega rides anyhow.

Definitely feel the extra pull when it gets really steep.

 

[Borbea]

Not really an upgrade or is it.

Motor gave up the ghost and replaced under warranty.

Looked to me it was replaced by a standard EP8 motor, hooked up to app and yep I am getting the fulling 85nm of torque as apposed to the 65nm on the EP8rs.

Battery is potentially going to get hit if I use Turbo a lot but I don't do mega rides anyhow.

Definitely feel the extra pull when it gets really steep.

With the STunlocker app (iphone) you can set the power back to original values and after that e-tube app will also show max 60 Nm. The main thing is the maximum power. Standard EP8 has 500W maximum in all settings, but EP8RS has:
ECO 150 W
TRAIL 250 W
BOOST 350 W

In STunlocker there is a checker to return to RS values. I think RS values makes more sens as range will be better and also the character of the bike will have this nice Rider Synergy feeling.

 

[MAster]

Bought my self a M10 2022 bargain - after some tests I started changing lot’s of components (32 hole DT Wheels, kenda tyres, Shigura, Alloy 31.8 Cockpit,…)
I decided to go for a ZEB in front, but not sure whether I should travel down to 150 or 160. Are there any drawbacks with 160 and the standard 140 in the back?
Cheers

 

[cookie70]

Are there any drawbacks with 160 and the standard 140 in the back?

depending on what you ride I think 160 is the way to go!

 

[MAster]

depending on what you ride I think 160 is the way to go!

Big boy likes to descent, jumps and steep trails- ok I give 160 a try

 

[hind-corners]

depending on what you ride I think 160 is the way to go!

Big boy likes to descent, jumps and steep trails- ok I give 160 a try

Personally I think the bike feels lot better with 160/140 setup than stock one in all use cases. I think its the bit slacker HA.

 

[BobR]

The longer the front the harder the climb but you are on an ebike… hit the boost

 

[Shjay]

160/140 is great setup lots of boutique brands run more on front than rear

 

[iLuveKetchup]

Bought my self a M10 2022 bargain - after some tests I started changing lot’s of components (32 hole DT Wheels, kenda tyres, Shigura, Alloy 31.8 Cockpit,…)
I decided to go for a ZEB in front, but not sure whether I should travel down to 150 or 160. Are there any drawbacks with 160 and the standard 140 in the back?
Cheers

I felt like the balance was off with the 160 front with the 140 rear. The front end felt too high and/or possibly the bottom bracket raised too much. I had to slam the stem and add an offset bushing to get it back to where I want it. YMMV

 

[Shjay]

BB is 336mm at 140mm travel dependent on tyre sizes it’s around 345 at 160mm still low for most e-bikes & I ride with a slammed stem 2.5mm spacer under stem

 

[John_A]

Just got my new H30 and have a Yari debonair lying around but it's 160mm, don't know wether to try it as-is or change the air spring to 150mm, reading here, it looks like 160 travel works fine. Got a Rockshox Super Deluxe rear shotk in the right size so may as well try that as well.

Brakes - Ive upgraded to 203mm rotors, but think I'm going to go with Maguras as I know they work well, or is there an easier option is for some decent 4 pot Shimano callipers (BR-MT420's??) that I can re-use the current levers and hoses?

 

[BobR]

BB is 336mm at 140mm travel dependent on tyre sizes it’s around 345 at 160mm still low for most e-bikes & I ride with a slammed stem 2.5mm spacer under stem

Anything to raise the BB would a positive for sure!