Rise Up - What are your upgrades?

[Murphius]

I just ordered the 216m DHX2 today…did u go with nobl TR37’s for wheels? Still haven’t figured out what I want to go with wheel wise….leaning SC Reserves or We are ones.

Yep, I do have the TR37s with Onyx hubs on this bike and We Are One Unions with Onyx hubs on another. Happy with both so far. I will say that the EP8 motor rattle is mildly annoying if you are hoping for a silent bike.

 

[ebsocalmtb]

My (re)build of my XL M20 is pretty much complete. I'm waiting on some new fork and wheel decals, but other then that is pretty much there.

High Points:
-45lbs ready to ride as pictured
-36 Factory @160mm with Vorsprung Luftkappe
-210x55 - Fox Float X with custom tune
-Code RSC brakes with 200mm rotors
-DTswiss EX511 rear, XM481 front - DT350 hubs - 2.5 Maxxis Assegai maxx grip front - 2.4 DHR2 with cushcore pro in back
-X01 Shifter, GX Eagle Derailleur, SLX Cassette, XT chain, XT Crank Arms, XT Pedals
-Oneup 210mm Seatpost, WTB Koda Wide Saddle
-PNW Range 31.8 Bars, Spank Stem, PNW Loam Grips, Wolftooth Dropper Lever, Oneup EDC Lite
-Range Extender, Evoc Frame Bag

Many fun miles so far, many more to come.

 

[Chicane]

My (re)build of my XL M20 is pretty much complete. I'm waiting on some new fork and wheel decals, but other then that is pretty much there.

High Points:
-45lbs ready to ride as pictured
-36 Factory @160mm with Vorsprung Luftkappe
-210x55 - Fox Float X with custom tune
-Code RSC brakes with 200mm rotors
-DTswiss EX511 rear, XM481 front - DT350 hubs - 2.5 Maxxis Assegai maxx grip front - 2.4 DHR2 with cushcore pro in back
-X01 Shifter, GX Eagle Derailleur, SLX Cassette, XT chain, XT Crank Arms, XT Pedals
-Oneup 210mm Seatpost, WTB Koda Wide Saddle
-PNW Range 31.8 Bars, Spank Stem, PNW Loam Grips, Wolftooth Dropper Lever, Oneup EDC Lite
-Range Extender, Evoc Frame Bag

Many fun miles so far, many more to come.

Maple Springs? Who did your custom Float X tune?

 

[ebsocalmtb]

Maple Springs? Who did your custom Float X tune?

Kinda sorta. Photo was taken at 4 corners, but I climbed up harding and then went down Joplin.

I did the tune on the float X myself using the off the shelf tunes that Fox has and then re-charged it with nitrogen at my LBS. I find that the medium rebound tune is too heavy for this bike and I was backed all the way out on the adjuster at the 195psi that I am running. So I'm running a medium compression tune with lighter rebound tune then orbea specifies and a slightly different base valve then the oem tune. I'm still playing around with the tunes and I may end up trying a slightly different compression tune along the way. Rebound feels pretty dialed in so far.

 

[Chrisjones6699]

My (re)build of my XL M20 is pretty much complete. I'm waiting on some new fork and wheel decals, but other then that is pretty much there.

High Points:
-45lbs ready to ride as pictured
-36 Factory @160mm with Vorsprung Luftkappe
-210x55 - Fox Float X with custom tune
-Code RSC brakes with 200mm rotors
-DTswiss EX511 rear, XM481 front - DT350 hubs - 2.5 Maxxis Assegai maxx grip front - 2.4 DHR2 with cushcore pro in back
-X01 Shifter, GX Eagle Derailleur, SLX Cassette, XT chain, XT Crank Arms, XT Pedals
-Oneup 210mm Seatpost, WTB Koda Wide Saddle
-PNW Range 31.8 Bars, Spank Stem, PNW Loam Grips, Wolftooth Dropper Lever, Oneup EDC Lite
-Range Extender, Evoc Frame Bag

Many fun miles so far, many more to come.

You got your bike with the range extender down to 20kg’s?? Mine is the same XL and it’s 20kg as standard. How have you managed that?

 

[ebsocalmtb]

You got your bike with the range extender down to 20kg’s?? Mine is the same XL and it’s 20kg as standard. How have you managed that?

Good catch, my "ready to ride as pictured" comment was in retrospect, wrong. my bike is 45lbs without the range extender. Overall, I could comfortably drop .5 Lbs with parts changes to lighter ones. I have a trail bike wheelset setup for it with a dissector and dhr2 that drops another .75lbs. As well. Safe to say, that the lightest I could make this bike with the range extender would be 46.5 - 47.

 

[Chrisjones6699]

Good catch, my "ready to ride as pictured" comment was in retrospect, wrong. my bike is 45lbs without the range extender. Overall, I could comfortably drop .5 Lbs with parts changes to lighter ones. I have a trail bike wheelset setup for it with a dissector and dhr2 that drops another .75lbs. As well. Safe to say, that the lightest I could make this bike with the range extender would be 46.5 - 47.

Phew! I was wondering what I had to spend to get those weight saves!

 

[Chrisjones6699]

probably my favourite upgrade is making the little black box disappear!

 

[iLuveKetchup]

probably my favourite upgrade is making the little black box disappear!

View attachment 83823

Did you shorten the cable so that the box is tucked neatly by your dropper lever?

 

[Chrisjones6699]

Did you shorten the cable so that the box is tucked neatly by your dropper lever?

I bought a longer 550mm cable so I could do that. There’s a connecter just inside the headset so it’s quite a simple process.

 

[ebsocalmtb]

I bought a longer 550mm cable so I could do that. There’s a connecter just inside the headset so it’s quite a simple process.

Can you post some more photos of how you have it mounted near your lever? What size frame do you have that required the extra wire length?

 

[Chrisjones6699]

Can you post some more photos of how you have it mounted near your lever? What size frame do you have that required the extra wire length?

Yeah, no problem. I’ll take some in a bit.

i don’t think the frame size would matter as the cable from the black box to inside the headset is very short (150 or 200mm I think) but my frame is XL anyway.

 

[Chrisjones6699]

Can you post some more photos of how you have it mounted near your lever? What size frame do you have that required the extra wire length?

 

[ebsocalmtb]

Thanks. So you just dropped the fork out, pulled the dropper post cable housing, and the oem en100 wire back into the frame through the internal routing port. Then I assume you pulled the wire through then the dropper housing back through again?

I'm assuming that there isn't enough extra room to get that cable through without removing the dropper housing. That would be great if there were, but I haven't had great luck with the wire/housing routing on this bike.

 

[Chrisjones6699]

Thanks. So you just dropped the fork out, pulled the dropper post cable housing, and the oem en100 wire back into the frame through the internal routing port. Then I assume you pulled the wire through then the dropper housing back through again?

I'm assuming that there isn't enough extra room to get that cable through without removing the dropper housing. That would be great if there were, but I haven't had great luck with the wire/housing routing on this bike.

In theory, that’s exactly how it should be done, however, for me, it wasn’t that simple I somehow pulled the dropper cable housing past the motor so ended up dropping the motor out so I could get it all back to normal. I just used this as an excuse to clean the motor and the insides of the frame. I also put some foam sleeve on the cables that may rattle. But yes, you are spot on with all your assumptions. It should be easy if you were to pull the dropper cable up with the post to get enough clearance for the en100 wire.

 

[ped]

nice idea to hide the EN100 completly.
I did not like the the Orbea factory solution either and attached the box to the handlebar.
This solution does not require any cable changing and is quite unobtrusively.
All you need is a piece of outer shiftcable, and some cable ties.

 

[cookie70]

Finally got out for a real ride on the new M10. Thought I'd list what I have done (not much)

203mm front rotor
Rear mudguard
Motor bashguard
DHF front tyre moved the stock front to rear.
Specialized waterbottle holder
Chromag seat

Planned changes:
Have front mudguard in the post
Bigger volume spacers in shock
Possibly install smashpot on the front.
34 tooth chainring

Looking for advice on:
Rear mudgaurd that stops mud getting on lower linkages

 

[benzy]

Two weeks with my H15 and besides swapping the cranks and touch points, the brakes had to go. Even after swapping the deore two piston to deore 4 piston and 203 rotors, stopping power was pretty sad. Given the option by the shop of 4 piston XTs or MT5s I went with the MT5s Looking forward to the weekend to give them a proper test. Really surprised the Shimano brakes performed so minimally for me.

 

[BiGJZ74]

Two weeks with my H15 and besides swapping the cranks and touch points, the brakes had to go. Even after swapping the deore two piston to deore 4 piston and 203 rotors, stopping power was pretty sad. Given the option by the shop of 4 piston XTs or MT5s I went with the MT5s Looking forward to the weekend to give them a proper test. Really surprised the Shimano brakes performed so minimally for me.

I just went with XT 4-pots from the factory then went 220/203 Magura Mdr-p rotors when my bike arrived.

 

[Tubby G]

Magura MT5’s & 203mm rotor up front for me, which the bike shop changed and offset the cost against the stock brakes they took off

 

[DanMcDan]

I just replaced the stock 2 pot deore callipers with the 4 pot Mt520, switched to sintered pads and 200mm rotors front and rear.

 

[BiGJZ74]

Magura MT5’s & 203mm rotor up front for me, which the bike shop changed and offset the cost against the stock brakes they took off

I have MT-7's on my Trek Rail. Love the power and feel but hate the need to bleed them more frequently. Twice in a year I had to do a full bleed because they started to fail and just lose power. lever bleed on the XT's so much easier

 

[Tubby G]

I have MT-7's on my Trek Rail. Love the power and feel but hate the need to bleed them more frequently. Twice in a year I had to do a full bleed because they started to fail and just lose power. lever bleed on the XT's so much easier

I do a quick and easy lever bleed on the MT5’s when they start to lose their bite. I bought some 100ml syringes from ebay, drilled a hole 1/2 way up the body. Undo the bleed valve, place syringe in with around 20ml Royal Blood, pull plunger to let the air bubble though and keep pulling until I get past the hole I drilled which then pushes the fluid into the hose lines. Hold finger over hole when removing syringe. Repeat process a couple of times, replace bleed valve, pump the brake lever and heh presto as good as new again simple

 

[benzy]

I just went with XT 4-pots from the factory then went 220/203 Magura Mdr-p rotors when my bike arrived.

How's that setup? There's a few good reasons to use Shimano brakes (easy bleeding, cockpit integration etc) over Magura. But at the end of the day all that matters is performance. Wonder if XT + better rotors and metallic pads are going to be as good as the MT5s alone

 

[BiGJZ74]

How's that setup? There's a few good reasons to use Shimano brakes (easy bleeding, cockpit integration etc) over Magura. But at the end of the day all that matters is performance. Wonder if XT + better rotors and metallic pads are going to be as good as the MT5s alone

I’m over 300lbs and have zero issues braking regardless how steep, fast, and rocky it is. I have XT’s on 3 of my bikes and Maguras on one. For me the trade off in maintenance doesn’t out weight the performance difference. I won’t get Magura again but that’s just me.

 

[benzy]

I’m over 300lbs and have zero issues braking regardless how steep, fast, and rocky it is. I have XT’s on 3 of my bikes and Maguras on one. For me the trade off in maintenance doesn’t out weight the performance difference. I won’t get Magura again but that’s just me.

Hmm, good to know. Got jaded on shimano after riding the M6120s for a week. Maybe is was more a pad/rotor combination. Otherwise shimano brakes have always served me well.

 

[SillyPosition]

At the moment just returned from first ride with my M20. Feels very good, still need to get back into shape..
Changed saddle to Ergon emtb sport saddle
Changed to XT8120 brakes with stock rotors
Ordered Ergon GA3 grips, should have them next week.

Also, more of a question regarding what should I maybe change in my setup?
Got a stock M20, I feel that the handlebar is maybe too low for me, I feel mussle pressure in my shoulders/back of my shoulders, maybe should I try a handlebar with rise? any suggestions? or other things I should try?

 

[Chrisjones6699]

At the moment just returned from first ride with my M20. Feels very good, still need to get back into shape..
Changed saddle to Ergon emtb sport saddle
Changed to XT8120 brakes with stock rotors
Ordered Ergon GA3 grips, should have them next week.

Also, more of a question regarding what should I maybe change in my setup?
Got a stock M20, I feel that the handlebar is maybe too low for me, I feel mussle pressure in my shoulders/back of my shoulders, maybe should I try a handlebar with rise? any suggestions? or other things I should try?

I bought the nukeproof horizon carbon bars with a 35mm(or 38?) and they are really nice. Still feel like I need some wrist support so maybe go down the ergon grips. Bought the horizon stem to match and looks really nice.

 

[SillyPosition]

Nice upgrades everyone! I actually have been riding my regular bike more lately and haven’t ridden the new white Rise yet. But I have been collecting some parts

My Rise got an oem Fox 36, and will get shimano 160mm cranks, Fox transfer, fender, kabolt and factory tune Float X. I’ve spoken to Fox and their factory tune works well with the Rise kinematics if you are planning to upgrade.

AAANDD… built my wife a small Rise! Most of the parts were from her Scott Ransom. As pictured is 40.5lb. Can’t wait to take these two bikes out!

View attachment 72458

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View attachment 72461

How did you get this space there between the frame and the stem? Are these spacers of some sort?
My fork steerer is cut such that the stem starts exactly on the frame. Is it something I can do too and raise the handlebar slightly?
Feels like I lean forward too much...

I bought the nukeproof horizon carbon bars with a 35mm(or 38?) and they are really nice. Still feel like I need some wrist support so maybe go down the ergon grips. Bought the horizon stem to match and looks really nice.

Yes, Im currently planning to get the race face 35 R 35mm rise handlebar (Its more available in my area than the oneup, which by reviews seems even better, but I'll get whichever is available for worldwide shipping)
Im just debating with myself if I should get also a shorter stem than the original one.
I might replace the shaft to improve geometry to my needs, from 140mm to 150mm (with the fox34)

It seems like the original stem is 50mm length, so I feel good trying the nukeproof horizon stem at 35mm. I notice it has also -+5degrees rise. I assume by using the marker lines? Not sure exactly, anyhow seems like it might improve my issues.
I already pushed the saddle a bit towards the front of the bike, so I already felt better riding today. I have a good feeling about shorter stem + 35mm rise handlebar.

Edit: Now I see that nukeproof also has a stem mount for garmin. Yay!

 

[SillyPosition]

nice idea to hide the EN100 completly.
I did not like the the Orbea factory solution either and attached the box to the handlebar.
This solution does not require any cable changing and is quite unobtrusively.
All you need is a piece of outer shiftcable, and some cable ties.

View attachment 85299

In my bike the cable from the remote into the frame is shorter, and the cable from the remote to the switch buttons is longer. I dont think I cant do that.
Any other suggestions? Or is it only to open up the bike and slide in a longer cable?