Reign E+ 2022

>moto<

Active member
Jan 4, 2021
116
100
Sunshine Coast
thanks for finding that but I have those already but as I mentioned I find those generic numbers are not accurate as the bikes geometry can change things.

If anyone here wants to throw out what they have found works well (25-30% for example) up front and rear that would be appreciated. I think the 38 has 3 tokens in it?? Has anyone gone down to 2 and seen how that feels? I told them to put the second spacer in the X2 because I know I'm going to want it a little more progressive.
Interesting that you know how many tokens you need in your fork/shock yet you haven't sorted the day properly yet because you are asking for others opinions. You also stated that in your experience Fox are 20% out with their recommended settings, if that's the case, use your experience and adjust the values by 20% lol.
 

Implor

Member
Nov 8, 2021
168
83
Sweden
Another great option if available is a Shokwiz, best money I've spent and really helps get the front and back set up. It also measures sag perfectly and minimises errors in set up. I've used it heaps and never really had a bad result TBH, worth hiring at least given both front & rear have full adjustability (at least on E+1 and above).
@Dale_Calgary some shops have Shokwiz you can rent for a few days or a week. Check it out!
 

zorro77

Active member
Apr 13, 2021
255
426
Italy
@Dale_Calgary some shops have Shokwiz you can rent for a few days or a week. Check it out!


I would like to try the Shockwiz but I have a doubt, if I use it on the fork but I have the rear shock set incorrectly, will the advice of the Shockwiz be wrong? Ok then I can also use it for the rear shock absorber, but then do I have to adjust the fork again?
 

Implor

Member
Nov 8, 2021
168
83
Sweden
I would like to try the Shockwiz but I have a doubt, if I use it on the fork but I have the rear shock set incorrectly, will the advice of the Shockwiz be wrong? Ok then I can also use it for the rear shock absorber, but then do I have to adjust the fork again?
Shockwiz monitor how the shock behaves and not how the bike feels. I would just set recommended values on both shock/fork and start with it as baseline. I would bet shockwiz will give you a better technical setup then you would by feel. If you like it or not is something else. Some ppl like it super plush other a bit harder so a lot it personal preference in the end.

I did see some very good biker (one youtube maybe?) that tested shockwiz and it turned out his set up was already perfect. "well spent money" he joked :ROFLMAO:. Best is just to rent it or buy it with a few friends and share. It will be used once and left for years most likely.
 

emtbeast

Active member
Jan 10, 2022
277
320
Slovenia
I’m doing it the other way 🤣. Adding a 50mm stem and pushing the sadel way back.

Edit: TBH if I had the option to test different sizes I might have taken a large also. Medium felt small to start with even if it’s almost identical to my propain tyee. Changing so I have identical setups on both will most likely fix that.

View attachment 81088
Hey I am 178cm so just on the edge of M/L with an 83cm Inseam...It's terrible I don't know how manufacturers haven't figured it out yet that there should be an M/L size option with MTBs...some have...

My trail bike is the 2018 YT Jeffsy size L 445 reach but way slacker seat tube 74.5 vs the Reign 77.5.

I had the chance to try both the L E+2 and M E+1 and had a really hard time to decide...Only could do the testing on a parking lot...so could not get a clear picture on how the bike feels in the trail.

The first feel siting on the bike the M size felt more comfy and the L felt more sporty...

I took the M and did the same as you pushed the saddle backwards as it goes and probably will add a longer stem it it doesn't make the bike to lazy...

The one reason I didn't go with the L was because off the combo of: reeeally steep seat tube angle + a forward pushed saddle to accommodate for reach would probably get my knees over the pedals and as I love to pedal a lot it could result in pain and injuries. The other reason was as It's my first ebike, and as much as I read, generally the recommendation is smaller due to the weight of the machine.

If I would be more a pilot then a traveler on my bike then I would probably go for the L size as it felt better in a standing position.

Haven't ridden it yet as the temps here are below zero most of the time...

So much for my contribution ✌😉
 

Dale_Calgary

New Member
Jan 22, 2022
61
70
Calgary
Interesting that you know how many tokens you need in your fork/shock yet you haven't sorted the day properly yet because you are asking for others opinions. You also stated that in your experience Fox are 20% out with their recommended settings, if that's the case, use your experience and adjust the values by 20% lol.
I don't know shit yet! Just gathering info :). At this time of the year for my riding I'm just buzzing around on dry pavement and not worrying about it until spring.
 

Implor

Member
Nov 8, 2021
168
83
Sweden
Hey I am 178cm so just on the edge of M/L with an 83cm Inseam...It's terrible I don't know how manufacturers haven't figured it out yet that there should be an M/L size option with MTBs...some have...

My trail bike is the 2018 YT Jeffsy size L 445 reach but way slacker seat tube 74.5 vs the Reign 77.5.

I had the chance to try both the L E+2 and M E+1 and had a really hard time to decide...Only could do the testing on a parking lot...so could not get a clear picture on how the bike feels in the trail.

The first feel siting on the bike the M size felt more comfy and the L felt more sporty...

I took the M and did the same as you pushed the saddle backwards as it goes and probably will add a longer stem it it doesn't make the bike to lazy...

The one reason I didn't go with the L was because off the combo of: reeeally steep seat tube angle + a forward pushed saddle to accommodate for reach would probably get my knees over the pedals and as I love to pedal a lot it could result in pain and injuries. The other reason was as It's my first ebike, and as much as I read, generally the recommendation is smaller due to the weight of the machine.

If I would be more a pilot then a traveler on my bike then I would probably go for the L size as it felt better in a standing position.

Haven't ridden it yet as the temps here are below zero most of the time...

So much for my contribution ✌😉
I will probably be perfect for you. Many things like this is down to personal preference.

Btw if you want a longer dropper Oneup has it's 180 in stock here in EU. I got one for my E+1 medium. I got inseam 81.


Just pick the right diameter 30.9.

You can shorten it internally down to 160mm internally (10mm steps). Almost like you can take the 210mm version (can be shorten to 190).

I can drop a picture how mine will look. It's on it's way now and I will most likely get it this week.
 

emtbeast

Active member
Jan 10, 2022
277
320
Slovenia
I will probably be perfect for you. Many things like this is down to personal preference.

Btw if you want a longer dropper Oneup has it's 180 in stock here in EU. I got one for my E+1 medium. I got inseam 81.


Just pick the right diameter 30.9.

You can shorten it internally down to 160mm internally (10mm steps). Almost like you can take the 210mm version (can be shorten to 190).

I can drop a picture how mine will look. It's on it's way now and I will most likely get it this week.
I was also considering the oneup dropper...yeah a picture would be great, I maybe could get away with the 210...but am not sure if there is enough insertion length in the seattube...I think the 180 would be good enough though ✌
 

Rob Rides EMTB

Administrator
Staff member
Subscriber
Jan 14, 2018
6,258
13,694
Surrey, UK
Measured head angle in HIGh position.

Slacker than BoJo’s leadership ethics….

Rotated 180 degrees to account for any variations in floor

9B7BC946-F68E-4354-A596-43AEC5578090.jpeg


7D2228D4-2E18-4E15-B2D5-25C1D414DAAA.jpeg
 

Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
Author
Subscriber
Mar 29, 2018
10,496
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the internet
Phew... Anything over 63 and I dread to think of the consequences descending the incredibly steep high speed Surrey Alps. ;)
 

goroncy

Well-known member
May 1, 2020
274
345
Munich
Phew... Anything over 63 and I dread to think of the consequences descending the incredibly steep high speed Surrey Alps. ;)

Nice heels ;). What does it say about me if I feel great on my "analog" (I don't know if I like that word) enduro bike which has 66° head angle? And I mean actual Alps.
 

Rob Rides EMTB

Administrator
Staff member
Subscriber
Jan 14, 2018
6,258
13,694
Surrey, UK
How did you measure it? If you're not in some way or another plotting the actual axle curve it won't be accurate.
Yeah agree, it won’t be totally accurate due to axle path but the closest I can get.

method:

- bike upside down
- front and rear axles level
- inflate shock, so stroke is maxxed out
- measure rear axle height (measurement 1)
- deflate shock, use a ratchet strap between rear wheel / seat post to bring rear wheel through travel and max out stroke
- Make sure shock fully compressed as far as stroke will go
- Measure rear axle height (measurement 2)
- Subtract measurement 2 from measurement 1

actual ‘travel’ will be across an arc where the rear wheel flows, which as far as I can tell is not all vertical travel.

It’s not 100% accurate, but can be useful comparing actual vertical travel across bikes. Its as good as I can get at the moment 👍
 

Implor

Member
Nov 8, 2021
168
83
Sweden
Yeah agree, it won’t be totally accurate due to axle path but the closest I can get.

method:

- bike upside down
- front and rear axles level
- inflate shock, so stroke is maxxed out
- measure rear axle height (measurement 1)
- deflate shock, use a ratchet strap between rear wheel / seat post to bring rear wheel through travel and max out stroke
- Make sure shock fully compressed as far as stroke will go
- Measure rear axle height (measurement 2)
- Subtract measurement 2 from measurement 1

actual ‘travel’ will be across an arc where the rear wheel flows, which as far as I can tell is not all vertical travel.

It’s not 100% accurate, but can be useful comparing actual vertical travel across bikes. Its as good as I can get at the moment 👍
Maybe this Adds merit to your idea that it might been a 29/29 bike to start with?

if you add a 29” back wheel it might be 64.5 deg.

EDIT: Used a bike calculator. Adding a 29" back wheel steepens it to ~64 deg.
 
Last edited:

Buckaroony

Member
Dec 17, 2021
69
85
UK
Maybe this Adds merit to your idea that it might been a 29/29 bike to start with?

if you add a 29” back wheel it might be 64.5 deg.

if you watch the EMBN development video you can see the stages of prototype. It appears to have been designed for the EWS as a race bike.
 

goroncy

Well-known member
May 1, 2020
274
345
Munich
Maybe this Adds merit to your idea that it might been a 29/29 bike to start with?

if you add a 29” back wheel it might be 64.5 deg.

I don't know how your rear triangle looks like, but if it's the same as mine there's no way to squeeze 29 wheel there.

I love this monster's geo as is ;). 29 in the rear would push the seat angle to almost 90° :D. Also would make the reach longer. Stand over height larger. So making the geo worse in every aspect (for my needs) Not to mention a sluggish 29" rear.

As much as 63ish ° head angle and low bb goes I absolutely love it! This is NOT a trail bike guys. This is a bike that wants it fast and hard. Down the hill.
 

emtbeast

Active member
Jan 10, 2022
277
320
Slovenia
Maybe this Adds merit to your idea that it might been a 29/29 bike to start with?

if you add a 29” back wheel it might be 64.5 deg.

EDIT: Used a bike calculator. Adding a 29" back wheel steepens it to ~64 deg.
Maybe the new Trance X E rear end would fit? 🤔 What do you think?
 

Tim gosnold

New Member
Nov 5, 2021
77
66
Fordingbridge
Does any have a picture of their non drive side which might show this bolt head as I can’t remember if there is a cover over it as I don’t remember seeing it set this far back. 🤷‍♂️ Thanks guys. And yes it needs a clean 🤣
41A09E8C-615C-4D63-846D-17B7635B844E.jpeg
 

jbv

Member
Sep 7, 2021
102
82
Vancouver Island BC
not surprised at all with that head angle. feels like 63 in the high setting to me. i won't ever be using the low setting.

measured the BB height and got about 332 to center. Giant said they went as low as the possibly could and it was an important design parameter but i wouldn't mind if it were 1cm higher as these bikes sit far into sag anyways when riding, but i think Giant and their riders, know exactly what they are doing so....
 

Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
Author
Subscriber
Mar 29, 2018
10,496
10,702
the internet
Yeah agree, it won’t be totally accurate due to axle path but the closest I can get.

method:

- bike upside down
- front and rear axles level
- inflate shock, so stroke is maxxed out
- measure rear axle height (measurement 1)
- deflate shock, use a ratchet strap between rear wheel / seat post to bring rear wheel through travel and max out stroke
- Make sure shock fully compressed as far as stroke will go
- Measure rear axle height (measurement 2)
- Subtract measurement 2 from measurement 1

actual ‘travel’ will be across an arc where the rear wheel flows, which as far as I can tell is not all vertical travel.

It’s not 100% accurate, but can be useful comparing actual vertical travel across bikes. Its as good as I can get at the moment 👍
Yeah. nevermind accuracy. That simply isn't rear travel measurement at all.
you're not the first mtb journalist to make this mistake ;)

to physically plot the "actual" axle path:
Remove shock.
Remove rear wheel.
lay the frame on it's side as flat as you can on a large sheet of cardboard. (a helper would be ideal for this)
use a vernire and place shock mounts apart by exactly the shocks eye to eye length. - This is your starting point.
Now rotate the swing arm through it's travel drawing the arc with a marker through the dropout until the shock mounts are closer together by exactly shock stroke.
being an arc your measurement from dropout start to finish point will be a tiny bit less than full actual travel. if You really want it to be exact. it's a simple geometric maths equasion based on the angle and length of lever (eg. swing arm length or virtual pivot point arc and length if its a horst or VPP). but the start point to end point measurement is generally only a mm or so shorter.
frame in a proper workshop bike stand that won't move and cardboard (bike box etc.) held vertically to the side of the frame would also work quite well.

Or measure every pivot point very accurately and use linkage software.
 
Last edited:

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