Reign E+ 2022

[Chuggz]

Reign E+1 owners (maybe others I didnt check the specs) - How are you finding the KMC chain?

I have still not really been out for a proper test drive but the bike is sitting on the workstand looking great. I was playing around with it today and noticed that the shifting is not great compared to my Rail that has the same drive-train components but is running the Hyperglide M7100 12 speed chain. In fact the Rail drive-train is super worn out and is overdue for replacing but it still feels smoother and the up-shift happens almost as soon as you touch the shifter. On the Reign the chain feels rough, especially on the second smallest cog for some reason, shifts are nowhere near as instant and the chain between the cassette an the chain ring seems to be getting a lot of vertical vibration.

I even checked the rear mech alignment to make sure that everything was aligned correctly and it is perfect. The KMC chain seems to be a pretty high spec chain but I have never had any issue with the M7100 chains and get pretty good durability from those. I am wondering where the benefit is with the KMC.

On my previous 2020 reign I ditched the Kmc after it developed a tight spot for a shimano xtr 12 spd chain!
the shifting was instantly better and ran smoother

 

[Mr Dog]

On my previous 2020 reign I ditched the Kmc after it developed a tight spot for a shimano xtr 12 spd chain!
the shifting was instantly better and ran smoother

I have 2 x M7100 (SLX) spare chains sitting on the shelf. I am thinking of ditching the KMC just to see the difference. I can always keep that as an emergency spare

 

[Chuggz]

I have 2 x M7100 (SLX) spare chains sitting on the shelf. I am thinking of ditching the KMC just to see the difference. I can always keep that as an emergency spare

You will notice the difference!
when my new 2022 arrives it will be the first thing I do and keep it as a spare.

 

[Ordinary Human Male]

I rode some steep rocky and natural DH yesterday and tore the DD casing tyre.

If I could go back in time, I'd definitely use the DH casing. Don't think Cushcore would have helped as it was a cut rather than a pinch, though the rim was a little dented where the cut appeared, with a corresponding small tear in the bead?

Reign E+1 owners (maybe others I didnt check the specs) - How are you finding the KMC chain?
...

I even checked the rear mech alignment to make sure that everything was aligned correctly and it is perfect. The KMC chain seems to be a pretty high spec chain but I have never had any issue with the M7100 chains and get pretty good durability from those. I am wondering where the benefit is with the KMC.

I replaced mine with a SRAM Eagle instantly because replacements were way cheaper than any Shimano or KMC - there seems to be a shortage of Deore and SLX components at the moment which has doubled prices. The Eagle chain works perfectly.

I've also downgraded to an RD-M6100 derailleur and haven't noticed a difference from the XT.

Have a HG hub arriving for a build so I can run cheap but heavy (all steel) Eagle 12 speed cassettes.

 

[Ordinary Human Male]

Has anyone considered bashguard options?

I don't have problems with the motor clearance usually, I just want insurance against anything breaking the cover and motor.

I've noticed that there is some minor damage to the rubber part of the battery case. Most of it could have been avoided, but at slow speeds I might not always be able to scoop the back of the bike up with my feet.

Something which is designed to spread the impact across the frame would be ideal.

Looks like Amygos has one, does anyone rate them?

 

[goroncy]

Has anyone considered bashguard options?

I don't have problems with the motor clearance usually, I just want insurance against anything breaking the cover and motor.

I've noticed that there is some minor damage to the rubber part of the battery case. Most of it could have been avoided, but at slow speeds I might not always be able to scoop the back of the bike up with my feet.

Something which is designed to spread the impact across the frame would be ideal.

Looks like Amygos has one, does anyone rate them?

Looks like a heavy and super expensive mud collector to me. The rear mudguard on this site looks good. Also unnecessarily expensive.

 

[goroncy]

Guys. The bike fixed itself today . I'm back in business. I have no idea what was the problem. New cranks (made of metal) coming today. The bike will be complete.

 

[goroncy]

I rode some steep rocky and natural DH yesterday and tore the DD casing tyre.

If I could go back in time, I'd definitely use the DH casing. Don't think Cushcore would have helped as it was a cut rather than a pinch, though the rim was a little dented where the cut appeared, with a corresponding small tear in the bead?




I replaced mine with a SRAM Eagle instantly because replacements were way cheaper than any Shimano or KMC - there seems to be a shortage of Deore and SLX components at the moment which has doubled prices. The Eagle chain works perfectly.

I've also downgraded to an RD-M6100 derailleur and haven't noticed a difference from the XT.

Have a HG hub arriving for a build so I can run cheap but heavy (all steel) Eagle 12 speed cassettes.

DD is good for the front. I ride in the Alps and just as you said DD on rocks is a poor choice. For the rear I mean. DHF or DHR2 on the rear with DH casing any day. Cushcore is a money sucking gimmick. DH Minion or equivalent from another company is the right tool for the job if you need puncture and rim protection.

 

[Implor]

Guys. The bike fixed itself today . I'm back in business. I have no idea what was the problem. New cranks (made of metal) coming today. The bike will be complete.

Good that it's working but doesn't feel so stable... Like my experience with linux desktop

 

[goroncy]

Good that it's working but doesn't feel so stable... Like my experience with linux desktop

I'm a software engineer. My experience with windows and apple is far worse than any linux distro. Let's not start this discussion .

Let's see what will happen with the bike. After first ride I can tell you that if it won't break within next couple of months it would be the best ebike I've ever ridden. I tested almost every meaningful company there is during emtb festival in Switzerland in 2020. I bought Simplon Rapcon Pmax after that. Wonderful design this bike was. Rode really great. Frame quality absolutely horrible. Frame was replaced 2 times because of defects and 1 time because of crack that appeard without any reason. Carbon on those ebikes is thin like paper.

That said Giant is better in everything. It's still heavy E-Bike so bunny on flat is NOT a pleasure but jumping any feature and DH on it is a freaking blast. Smile generator.

 

[Implor]

I'm a software engineer. My experience with windows and apple is far worse than any linux distro. Let's not start this discussion .

Let's see what will happen with the bike. After first ride I can tell you that if it won't break within next couple of months it would be the best ebike I've ever ridden. I tested almost every meaningful company there is during emtb festival in Switzerland in 2020. I bought Simplon Rapcon Pmax after that. Wonderful design this bike was. Rode really great. Frame quality absolutely horrible. Frame was replaced 2 times because of defects and 1 time because of crack that appeard without any reason. Carbon on those ebikes is thin like paper.

That said Giant is better in everything. It's still heavy E-Bike so bunny on flat is NOT a pleasure but jumping any feature and DH on it is a freaking blast. Smile generator.

Hehe. Just a quick rebuttal. LTT Linux desktop series on youtube pretty much sums up my Linux experience for the last 20 years . I'm also an engineer but my main job EE and not software right now. Lets go back to the Bike!

Ride quality is what matters as you say. My use case is self shuttling primarily as we have great enduro tracks built in my area but no lift. For the last 6months every time I got to a steep with my Enduro bike I been thinking "This is really not fun at all". Just the thing that you are tired when the fun begins (the way down) takes away from the experience. You notice how much more fun you have at a bike park when you start every lap more or less rested.

I'm also very sceptical to Carbon. in my opinion it's a devious material. It may hold for an insane amount of stress or snap for something trivial. The weight saving on using carbon on full fat emtb makes no sense.

 

[goroncy]

To all of you that bought the bike with Code brakes. If you don't like the sq

Hehe. Just a quick rebuttal. LTT Linux desktop series on youtube pretty much sums up my Linux experience for the last 20 years . I'm also an engineer but my main job EE and not software right now. Lets go back to the Bike!

Ride quality is what matters as you say. My use case is self shuttling primarily as we have great enduro tracks built in my area but no lift. For the last 6months every time I got to a steep with my Enduro bike I been thinking "This is really not fun at all". Just the thing that you are tired when the fun begins (the way down) takes away from the experience. You notice how much more fun you have at a bike park when you start every lap more or less rested.

I'm also very sceptical to Carbon. in my opinion it's a devious material. It may hold for an insane amount of stress or snap for something trivial. The weight saving on using carbon on full fat emtb makes no sense.

I absolutely love riding enduro in the Alps and be wasted when I'm at the summit preparing for going down. I like to suffer. I love bike parks too. I bought an ebike for family trips in the Alps . But I just couldn't help myself and bought an e-mtb instead. The difference it makes on my regular trails is that instead of going up once I will do it twice or 3 times on an ebike. Or just make the full circle much faster.

Carbon is not that bad. What companies are NOT doing is proper cover for the bike's underbelly. My regular ride is Intense Tracer. It will be it's 4th season now. The clue was to make a really good protection of the down tube. Repairability of carbon is usually better than aluminum too. I did that 2 times already. And I agree 100%. Carbon on e-mtbs with big batteries is nonsense. On e-mtbs with smaller batteries it might actually make sense.

 

[Implor]

To all of you that bought the bike with Code brakes. If you don't like the sq



I absolutely love riding enduro in the Alps and be wasted when I'm at the summit preparing for going down. I like to suffer. I love bike parks too. I bought an ebike for family trips in the Alps . But I just couldn't help myself and bought an e-mtb instead. The difference it makes on my regular trails is that instead of going up once I will do it twice or 3 times on an ebike. Or just make the full circle much faster.

Carbon is not that bad. What companies are NOT doing is proper cover for the bike's underbelly. My regular ride is Intense Tracer. It will be it's 4th season now. The clue was to make a really good protection of the down tube. Repairability of carbon is usually better than aluminum too. I did that 2 times already. And I agree 100%. Carbon on e-mtbs with big batteries is nonsense. On e-mtbs with smaller batteries it might actually make sense.

Carbon on something like the Orbea Rise I totally get. I agree that carbon is not bad in any way but sometimes brands shoot them self in the foot by trying to make it to light. If you want reliability I would say go for Aluminium. In one of the MTB groups I'm in on FB has the last year had maybe 20ish broken CF frames (mostly small cracks) and 1 AL frame (basically snapped in two ).

Everyone is different but for me the reliability more important then weight. Have 2-4 weeks down time due to waiting for a new frame would be a nightmare. Here in Sweden we might have 12-16 "prime" riding weeks per year and waiting for a frame then would be a disaster.

 

[goroncy]

Carbon on something like the Orbea Rise I totally get. I agree that carbon is not bad in any way but sometimes brands shoot them self in the foot by trying to make it to light. If you want reliability I would say go for Aluminium. In one of the MTB groups I'm in on FB has the last year had maybe 20ish broken CF frames (mostly small cracks) and 1 AL frame (basically snapped in two ).

Everyone is different but for me the reliability more important then weight. Have 2-4 weeks down time due to waiting for a new frame would be a nightmare. Here in Sweden we might have 12-16 "prime" riding weeks per year and waiting for a frame then would be a disaster.

That is why I love the concept of having my regular MTB and eMTB . I will always have a spare . But jokes aside I get your pain.

About carbon vs alu. I must say I was skeptical about carbon. I got my carbon Intense just by accident. I didn't buy it. I got it for free. All my previous bikes were alu. But to be honest I like it. What is super important to remember is that not all carbon is created equal. Carbon is a very hard material both to design (Intense used a German company for that) and to manufacture. You NEED both things to go really well for carbon frame to be safe and work nicely. With my Simplon e.g. both elements were missing. The carbon was simply too thin but also manufacturing was bad. Since then I put some effort actually in getting to know who from MTB brands makes good carbon frames. And guess what. Giant is actually one of them. Their MTB bikes have strong and oversized layup. Also the quality is really good. Good enough even to strip the paint and cover the frame with transparent coat. They actually used to do that on some bikes in the past (Giant Trance X Advanced SL 2013).

 

[goroncy]

OK. If we are in the subject of carbon at this moment. What do you guys think about our praxis cranks? Because this is the first element I am actually replacing. With normal alu cranks. Will you leave it on the bike? Did you see this wonderful clip with a fail of praxis cranks? I mean this wasn't even a seriously hard landing.

Field Test: Enduro and eMTBs Get Hucked to Flat in Ultra Slow Motion - Pinkbike

 

[Implor]

OK. If we are in the subject of carbon at this moment. What do you guys think about our praxis cranks? Because this is the first element I am actually replacing. With normal alu cranks. Will you leave it on the bike? Did you see this wonderful clip with a fail of praxis cranks? I mean this wasn't even a seriously hard landing.

Field Test: Enduro and eMTBs Get Hucked to Flat in Ultra Slow Motion - Pinkbike

I’m skeptical to carbon cranks. Seeing them fail on pink bikes hug to flat made me not that keen anymore. That said the chans that they would break is very small. But the consequences could be large. Back again to it makes no sense on full fat emtb as the weight saving is minimal.

I would maybe go for carbon wheels and light exo+ If I want to save some weight. Rotating mass is what matters.

 

[goroncy]

That is me on my other bike.




If your bike fails in this kind of scenario you end up seriously injured or dead. I never had carbon bars or cranks exactly for that reason. I am asking about those cranks to get to know what other think about the subject. I'm seriously curious.

Rob probably won't test your e-bikes this way

 

[Gills]

Guys. The bike fixed itself today . I'm back in business. I have no idea what was the problem. New cranks (made of metal) coming today. The bike will be complete.

Hi, great to hear your bike fixed itself!
Exactly the same thing happened to me, my first ebike and about to go on my first ride on Sunday when I updated the SW.

Not exactly happy after waiting several months, hopefully it gets sorted just as easily. I have taken it back to the lbs and waiting to hear what the issue is from them.

 

[goroncy]

Hi, great to hear your bike fixed itself!
Exactly the same thing happened to me, my first ebike and about to go on my first ride on Sunday when I updated the SW.

Not exactly happy after waiting several months, hopefully it gets sorted just as easily. I have taken it back to the lbs and waiting to hear what the issue is from them.

My shop told me that it might have been unfinished update. Whatever it was it's gone for now. I put a big nice mudhugger from "dead and gone" simplon on the fork and secured battery door from water with M3 rubber tape (slapper tape for those who like to pay too much). Tomorrow some first real jumps on this monster.

What were your exact symptoms??

 

[zorro77]

Today near the see

 

[kadlefkas]

what is that button ?

 

[DaveMatthews]

what is that button ?


View attachment 77624

Pressing it will light up some or all LEDs. It approximates the amount of charge in the battery.

 

[Gills]

My shop told me that it might have been unfinished update. Whatever it was it's gone for now. I put a big nice mudhugger from "dead and gone" simplon on the fork and secured battery door from water with M3 rubber tape (slapper tape for those who like to pay too much). Tomorrow some first real jumps on this monster.

What were your exact symptoms??

Same symptoms as you I think.
Turn the bike on - showed full battery and Green light or alternately all 5 power lights. After around 30 seconds the power would go off.
Could not change power settings / go into walk mode or basically do anything - but the bike was powered and could be ridden before it turned itself off.
The app diagnostic indicated there are no issues and the lbs diagnostic tool says the same.
I tried reseating the battery also which did not repair the fault.

I have called the lbs just now, the bike is so new they don't even have specific software tools, so they are waiting for Giant Australia (I am in NZ) to contact them with advice.
I asked them to try restoring to factory settings if they can. I will let you know how it goes.

Impressive video, awesome riding skills

 

[Tim gosnold]

@Rob Rides EMTB come on buddy when can we expect the review of the reign. Thanks Tim.

 

[goroncy]

Same symptoms as you I think.
Turn the bike on - showed full battery and Green light or alternately all 5 power lights. After around 30 seconds the power would go off.
Could not change power settings / go into walk mode or basically do anything - but the bike was powered and could be ridden before it turned itself off.
The app diagnostic indicated there are no issues and the lbs diagnostic tool says the same.
I tried reseating the battery also which did not repair the fault.

I have called the lbs just now, the bike is so new they don't even have specific software tools, so they are waiting for Giant Australia (I am in NZ) to contact them with advice.
I asked them to try restoring to factory settings if they can. I will let you know how it goes.

Impressive video, awesome riding skills

Sounds exactly like what I had. I think if we had it, more people will have this problem. Come back here when they'll resolve the issue and tell everyone what it was.

 

[mogulman]

Since Giant isn't selling the E+0 in the US. Anyone tried to get a Canadian Reign E+0 and transport across to the US?

 

[Implor]

Since Giant isn't selling the E+0 in the US. Anyone tried to get a Canadian Reign E+0 and transport across to the US?

Looks like you don’t even get the E+ 1. Really weird decision. Must have to do with part availability. Oh well… #TeamEurope .

 

[mogulman]

Looks like you don’t even get the E+ 1. Really weird decision. Must have to do with part availability. Oh well… #TeamEurope .

I know..weird stuff.

 

[goroncy]

Steezy as f&^$k, cheesy as hell. Ebike specific cranks for my ebike . Autistic in me just had to do it. Brake pads from Galfer also emtb.

M3 rubber tape turned the bike into amphibian. Tiny bit of water got into the battery area but nothing like my first ride. Works.

 

[Implor]

I know..weird stuff.

something weird is going on at giants website. I know for a fact that all models were on the Swedish site before but now it only has E+ 1. Lack of models on the website should not be an indicator that models are not sold in your region.