Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[Swagger]

Read this post ( the exact one that is linked with the excerpts from the tq motor installation guide)

Tq hpr50 clicking sound

I owe scott lumen 900, while i pedal alot with assistance turned off, i hear ticking noise from motor when right pedal is between 10 and 12 hour, i check all, change pedals, torque bolts, chainrings, cranks...all, i noticed when i turn on assistance even on most little possible setting ticking...

www.emtbforums.com

The motor is adjustable for width using what TQ refer to as motor compensation screws (these are not the bolts that fix the motor to the frame,but those bolts do pass through the middle of the motor compensation screws). Due to variances in the frames , it's necessary to be able to adjust the width of the motor so it fits perfectly in the gap between the motor mounting points of the frame. You use the Vernier calipers to measure the distance between the two motor mounting tabs on the frame, then you set the motor compensation screws to the same width so that the motor fits perfectly into the gap in the frame, then you use the motor mounting bolts to fix the motor to the frame.

Thanks Mteam. Looks like I'll need to remove the motor for this. I'll give it a shot over the weekend.

 

[Swingset]

Check the headset, pedals, seat post, cranks, lockring etc.

 

[Mteam]

Thanks Mteam. Looks like I'll need to remove the motor for this. I'll give it a shot over the weekend.

Yep you do, but it's easy to do

 

[Swingset]

On the subject of cranks on E bikes. On my YT Decoy would regularly hit my 170 cranks on the ground to the point where they would creak and would not stay tight. Thankfully the Shimano cranks were soft enough to not damage the bb spindle and motor. I bought a new set of 165's for about $75 and all was good. Big reason I use the cheapest cranks you can find to act as a fuse to protect the motor from taking the hit.

My E-13 stock (~$80 cranks) have been thankfully trouble free over 900 miles. I don't seem to have the grounding issue on this bike like the YT though.

 

[Swagger]

Yep you do, but it's easy to do

This video shows how to remove it. Do I need to remove the cranks, or can I leave them on there after I take off the chain? I don't have the socket adapter he used to get them off.

 

[Mteam]

This video shows how to remove it. Do I need to remove the cranks, or can I leave them on there after I take off the chain? I don't have the socket adapter he used to get them off.

The cranks can stay on

 

[TheRed]

Compensation screws are set to within 0.5mm of the frame width, I'm guessing that's close enough so can't be that.

 

[Mteam]

Compensation screws are set to within 0.5mm of the frame width, I'm guessing that's close enough so can't be that.

Mine was 1mm out and creaked like a bastard. I set it to the exact width and all creaking was gone

 

[levity]

You need the widest lower shock bushing you can fit which is 40mm (stock was 39.88 on my Fox) and torque it up to at least 17nm. The frame bracket is really stiff and you need to clamp the shock bushing or it can rattle.

Yes, the stock axle pin (aka bushing) used in my Fox Float X was the same, 39.87mm. It's tight getting it in/out of my 9.7 frame indicating a good snug fit. No problems with rattling when torqued to 15-17 Nm.

Maybe we need axle pins with "compensation screws" for frame variance

 

[TheRed]

Mine was 1mm out and creaked like a bastard. I set it to the exact width and all creaking was gone

MTeam for the win. The upper was shorter bolt was .5, longer .3, decided I'd nip the shorter as it was easy sliding it into place.
It took a quarter turn to make it real snug and hey presto, creak gone!
Thanks

 

[Logan5]

Hello, I have been registered since today. I've only had my Fuel EXe for a few days.
It's a 9.8 XT, modified with GX AXS gears and 160 Lyrik. (And Kovee Pro 30 Wheels).
Weight is 18.8 kg.

Although it had XT, it had SRAM brakes and aluminium cranks. I hope that I will at least get the carbon cranks later. So it's an XT without a single Shimano part....

I have two questions:
• I still want to change the spacers, does anyone know the torque for the carbon "stem"?

• And I had a problem yesterday: it was 28° - after the ride I wanted to charge it. An error message came up with "HOT" and the whole frame was extremely hot. Can the stone chip protection foil (complete frame) prevent the heat from being dissipated?

Greetings
Andreas

 

[Swingset]

Not enough info. What mode were you in? Were you climbing an extended amount? What does extremely hot mean? Down tube only? Did you plug it immediately? Ride wrap should not matter.

 

[Swagger]

Mine was 1mm out and creaked like a bastard. I set it to the exact width and all creaking was gone

Mine were both off by .5 mil. Adjusted and did a quick ride. Back seems quiet!

Next weekend I'll take off my forks and do the headset, clean and regrease. That is still clicking.

Thanks Mteam!

 

[Logan5]

Not enough info. What mode were you in? Were you climbing an extended amount? What does extremely hot mean? Down tube only? Did you plug it immediately? Ride wrap should not matter.

Stage 3 and quite a bit of throttle, slightly uphill and then quite a long time without an incline.
But all in the blazing sun.
Extremely hot: down tube by the battery very warm and also the top tube hot.
So hot that you don't want to touch it any longer and I was worried about the electronics inside.
At home I connected it to the charger as usual (17% remaining) and then I got the error message.
Only then did I notice that the whole frame had heated up extremely. Maybe the heat can't be dissipated through the foil as it normally would.

 

[KevinNY]

• I still want to change the spacers, does anyone know the torque for the carbon "stem"?

It's 5.2Nm for the RSL stem/bar combo. You'll find the torque spec stamped on the end of the stem (facing you when you are looking towards the front). It's easy to miss. Hope this helps.

I torque mine to 5Nm and retorque it / check it after a few rides. It sometimes loosen up after a few rides.

 

[Logan5]

Thank you Must open my eyes...

 

[Swingset]

Stage 3 and quite a bit of throttle, slightly uphill and then quite a long time without an incline.
But all in the blazing sun.
Extremely hot: down tube by the battery very warm and also the top tube hot.
So hot that you don't want to touch it any longer and I was worried about the electronics inside.
At home I connected it to the charger as usual (17% remaining) and then I got the error message.
Only then did I notice that the whole frame had heated up extremely. Maybe the heat can't be dissipated through the foil as it normally would.

I would pull the battery and plug it in to see how hot it gets. Carbon is a poor conductor of heat so anything away from the downtube sounds suspicious.

 

[Swingset]

For those who don't like the upper headset gap I put an I9 headset on yesterday. I went with a 15mm top cap. It sits really close to the frame and they include shims to increase the gap if needed. Very nice piece of kit.

 

[Bradleybourbon]

For those who don't like the upper headset gap I put an I9 headset on yesterday. I went with a 15mm top cap. It sits really close to the frame and they include shims to increase the gap if needed. Very nice piece of kit.

I ordered mine last Friday actually. I went with the 5mm.

 

[TheRed]

Somebody on here had the rather clever idea of shrink wrapping their rear brake cable and controller wire together?
How did you do it? Where did you unplug the controller cable to fit the shrink-wrap?

 

[KevinNY]

Somebody on here had the rather clever idea of shrink wrapping their rear brake cable and controller wire together?
How did you do it? Where did you unplug the controller cable to fit the shrink-wrap?

The cable easily unplugs from behind handlebar remote.

 

[TheRed]

The cable easily unplugs from behind handlebar remote.

Thanks Kev, you're a legend!

 

[Emailsucks98]

Somebody on here had the rather clever idea of shrink wrapping their rear brake cable and controller wire together?
How did you do it? Where did you unplug the controller cable to fit the shrink-wrap?

I do all my bikes, on the exe I do the remote wire to the dropper housing, and the rear brake/shifter together. Local hardware store has heat shrink in 36” lengths. Use a heat gun on low temp, go slow and do multiple passes. On one bike I got too hot and the brake hose bubbled!

Also- if you do your shifter, make sure the shifter housing is a little longer than the r brake hose. If not, shifting can suck.

 

[TheRed]

I do all my bikes, on the exe I do the remote wire to the dropper housing, and the rear brake/shifter together. Local hardware store has heat shrink in 36” lengths. Use a heat gun on low temp, go slow and do multiple passes. On one bike I got too hot and the brake hose bubbled!

Also- if you do your shifter, make sure the shifter housing is a little longer than the r brake hose. If not, shifting can suck.

View attachment 119970

Thanks. What diameter heatshrink cable do you use?

 

[Emailsucks98]

Thanks. What diameter heatshrink cable do you use?

Traveling for the week so can’t say for sure. I’d guess it was 3/8” or 1cm width

 

[Trail Blazer]

I am in the market for a mid-fat bike. Just had the Rise for some time but it was XL and will size down to L.
Currently I am looking at the SP Turbo Levo SL Comp or Pro which is "on pair" more or less with EXE.

How is the range and reliability based on official numbers?
How would You rate the EXE with the SL 2?
Other ideas?

There will also be coming several Bosch SX lightweight bikes this fall...

 

[Bom6erm4n]

Mine was 1mm out and creaked like a bastard. I set it to the exact width and all creaking was gone

I got the same issue, 1 click each revolution when the motor is off. The click is also perceptible in the pedal.As soon as i use assistance it's gone.
Everything is freshly greased and torqued to spec.

Was there a running change for the motors/motormounts used?
As you already mentioned i should be able to set the width of the motormounts but my Motor doesn't have these adjusters.
The width of the frame mounting tabs are about 0,5 mm wider than the motor .

Fuel EXE 9.5 bought in early 2023
The specs of my Motor:
Art. Nr.: 329587.0104
Year: 2022
SN: 500002556

In the other thread you linked to, there are some reports that the problem has to be internal, because it disappears as soon as i use the assistance.

Are there some infos out there i may have missed? TQ seems to be very quiet about some issues, which is unfortunate.
I wan't to get my infos straight before i contact my dealer.

 

[Swingset]

.5mm or .020" is a very large gap. It should be line to line or zero clearance if possible. With the adjustable screws this should relatively easy to do even without a caliper.

 

[Bom6erm4n]

.5mm or .020" is a very large gap. It should be line to line or zero clearance if possible. With the adjustable screws this should relatively easy to do even without a caliper.

But my motor doesn't have these adjusters. Thats why i asked if there is any info about some running changes

 

[Mteam]

I got the same issue, 1 click each revolution when the motor is off. The click is also perceptible in the pedal.As soon as i use assistance it's gone.
Everything is freshly greased and torqued to spec.

Was there a running change for the motors/motormounts used?
As you already mentioned i should be able to set the width of the motormounts but my Motor doesn't have these adjusters.
The width of the frame mounting tabs are about 0,5 mm wider than the motor .

Fuel EXE 9.5 bought in early 2023
The specs of my Motor:
Art. Nr.: 329587.0104
Year: 2022
SN: 500002556

In the other thread you linked to, there are some reports that the problem has to be internal, because it disappears as soon as i use the assistance.

Are there some infos out there i may have missed? TQ seems to be very quiet about some issues, which is unfortunate.
I wan't to get my infos straight before i contact my dealer.

Post a picture of the mounts of your motor,I'd be very surprised if it doesn't have them.

They are adjusted using a torx bit, and to the untrained eye may look non adjustable.

Edit : I see you have posted pictures while I was typing,can you take the same photos but of the non drive side.