Official Merida eOne-Sixty thread

RoJo

Active member
Apr 24, 2019
248
200
Surrey
I wouldnt worry about it. I have a 180mm Lyrik and minus 1.5 degree headset and its all good. Like i said elsewhere on here, it was only when i later tried a 29er wheel, the handling became a problem.
Completely agree. I've got 2019 180mm Debonair + RC2 damper on mine, effectively upgrading Yari to Lyrik. After many rides, I couldn't be happier. The front is really plush now. I get fewer pedal strikes due to +6mm BB height, but can't notice any adverse handling. Bear in mind the change is only +17mm in fork length after you take into account 15% sag.
I did, however, have to make a few setup changes: the bar height rises a little, so I had to drop the bar down 10mm and run with a little more sag to get the front end back a bit. Running more sag is no problem, as there is plenty of ramp up at the end of the fork stroke due to the extra travel. Since I was already running the bar with no spacers under the stem, I had to change from 20mm rise bars to 10mm rise to get this drop. I'm now really happy with the height of the front end.
The other handling difference I noticed is that the front felt too plush compared to the rear. To combat this, I put in a RockShox Gnar Dog 2.5x volume spacer (in the rear). The Super Deluxe already had 2 spacers in there which I removed (overall increase of 0.5 spacers). This made the rear feel more plush like the front, and has the effect of dropping the BB height (as you can run with slightly lower shock pressure as the spacers provide more ramp up and bottom out resistance). This was a positive setup direction so I'll be going one step further with this, adding another spacer back in to run 3.5 spacers total.
Overall the change is excellent. I didn't notice the slacker head angle. I did notice that the bike is much more capable on rough terrain. I didn't notice the handling getting worse anywhere, and I have a fewer pedal strikes.
It does prevent you from running 29" up front, because it will be too hard to compensate for an extra 19mm of height at the front on top of 180mm fork. To me this is fine, I've tried 29x2.5WT up front, and while it does feel light and more maneuverable like a normal bike I actually prefer 27.5x2.8 because I think it has more grip, and given the rear end of the bike is heavy, I found it strange to have such a light front and heavy rear. Feels more balanced in terms of weight running 27.5x2.8 front tyre.
 
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RoJo

Active member
Apr 24, 2019
248
200
Surrey
You will have about 0.5° slacker head angle and about 5 mm higher bottom bracket per 10mm of fork length, while retaining similar bar height. I went +10 on the lyrik on my meta power and am happy with the results.
The BB is only about 1/3 of the way between the rear and front wheels, so 10mm of fork is only 10/3 = 3mm of BB height.
Bar height will go up a little, but you can just remove some spacers, or run lower rise bars, but 10mm increase after sag is only 8.5mm that you have to compensate for.
 

RoJo

Active member
Apr 24, 2019
248
200
Surrey
Hi All,
Just wanted to share a few setup changes made to my Merida eOne-Sixty 800:
- Increased bar width from 760mm stock to 780mm, as I found that there wasn't enough leverage to man handle the weight of the bike. This was a significant improvement for me.
- Polaris enduro straps around the battery to stop the system turning off on big drops. I took the battery holder apart and couldn't see anything wrong, and I saw some other dude who had done this, copied him, and it works a treat!
- I tried 29x2.5WT Minion DHF front, but didn't get on with this. Front felt too light, despite dropping the stem, and out of balance with the heavy rear. I like the grip and progressiveness of 27.5x2.8 so I went back. Hoping they'll make an Assegai in 27.5x2.8 at some point, because I feel the DHR2 could do with some intermediate knobs to reduce the sliding as you transition to the edge knobs. I like the feeling of this sliding at the rear so DHR2 at the back is great.
- DT Swiss H1700 spline rear wheel. The Shimano hub broke on me, and I'm glad about it, because the stock rims on this bike are rubbish and I was forever truing them! The rear wheel flex was terrible when loading the tyre up or doing cutties. This new rear wheel made a night and day difference. No more nasty noises from the rear, with a really solid feel. I wouldn't throw away a good wheel, but when the excuse came to upgrade, I have to say I'm delighted. Hub engagement is also really nice with the spline hub, whereas the pawls on the shimano would make a noticeable clunk when they engaged.
- 180mm Debonair and RC2 damper (see comments above about this). Dropped the stem to minimum height (without removing the cup thingy) and reduced bar rise from 20mm to 10mm to rebalance the higher front end. Sensational. Feels better than my Fox 36 Grip on my other bike. Previously the fork felt like it would stiffen up on rough terrain, now it feels like butter, and has plenty of mid stroke support for pumping etc. Highly recommend!
- 2.5 Gnar Dog volume reducer fitted to the shock. As standard the shock had 2 volume reducers. I think you can run 3.5 max (Gnar Dog + one of the stock reducers), which is where I'm running now. Feels super supple, and can now finally take big hits without bottoming out hard - eBikes land hard, so this was a big improvement for me, easy and cheap.
- 10 speed Zee Mech, Deore M6000 I Spec II shifter (fits nicely under SLX lever clamp) and M771 11-36T cassette. My previous drivetrain chewed itself up, but I was never happy with the shifting performance. Shifts feel much better now, and I've saved approx 100g of unsprung mass by not having the 46T granny, that I didn't need anyway as I found I had better traction performance in the 37T cog. Now I only have the ratios that I need and super shifts. Word of warning: there is only just enough capacity on this short cage mech to run in the 36T ring at full compression, so make sure you take the air out of your shock and test the chain length at full compression in the 36T gear before cutting your chain. I found that I only had 1 link to play with (compared to chain in 11T and no compression).
Hoping the Merida dropper will fail soon so I have an excuse to replace that. Never liked the unpredictability of it, or the lever!

Very happy with the Merida overall. Can't even describe how much fun it is to a non-ebiker. Happy riding everyone!
Bike1.jpg
Bike2.jpg
 
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Teo78

Member
May 9, 2019
7
4
ITALY
I say 29” front and rear, I’ve allready set 29/27,5 plus and it feels so good that makes me think about better set up could be possible on the 29 front and rear Wheel... just thinking
Hi, a question i'm new in this forum, in my eone sixty 900e (2017) i want to make some changes, a 29 front wheels , an angle set from cane creek (steeper headset 1,5°) and finally full coil suspension from ohlins , i'm in the right way? because is a very funny bike , but in the rocky fast trail section feels a bit unstable , i need much more enduro bike feeling :)
 

Tommyknocker

Member
Feb 14, 2019
23
11
Madrid
Hello and wellcome, if you set a 29” wheel at front you get 0,5 ° more angle so in my opinione it is quite enought.... i did it and dont need more agressive angle, the 29” help as well, and the coil its a ver good performance, mine gets rough after a while descending, a coil will fix that problem That i will set in the future!
 

grim007

Member
Apr 11, 2019
34
25
Israel
Hi all
I noticed an annoying issue with the shimano motor.
Lets say I'm climbing a fire road in Trail mode. If I drop to a low gear and spin with high cadence I feel like the motor is resisting me even though the speed is say 12km/h. Only if I move to a harder gear will i feel the motor picking up again.
Is this normal? Is there a way to change this behaviour? I dont understand why the motor is resisting when I spin at high cadence. Will removing the speed limit help with this issue?
 

Tommyknocker

Member
Feb 14, 2019
23
11
Madrid
Hi all
I noticed an annoying issue with the shimano motor.
Lets say I'm climbing a fire road in Trail mode. If I drop to a low gear and spin with high cadence I feel like the motor is resisting me even though the speed is say 12km/h. Only if I move to a harder gear will i feel the motor picking up again.
Is this normal? Is there a way to change this behaviour? I dont understand why the motor is resisting when I spin at high cadence. Will removing the speed limit help with this issue?
Hi, sometimes i notice that, just a few, before and after of taking off limitation, I took it off the motor limits months ago, sometimes I still feel it, and i think that happems about the speed magnet, but its my opinon, a friend of mine told me about it “its just an electric engine so..”. Hope that help
 

Ambrose

New Member
Mar 27, 2019
13
6
Brisbane, Australia.
Cheers. I'm 187 and I'm thinking about either the L or XL. Two problems, though. I can't find an XL to try in Brisbane, and I haven't ridden a bike in 15 years so I probably wouldn't really be able to tell which is really more suitable.
 

sonofhans

Member
Feb 20, 2019
8
5
Miami, Qld
A few suspension upgrades for the eOneSixty 900
- Lyrik upgraded to 180mm Smashpot Coil + RC2 damper
- 29er front wheel running Minion DHF 2.5WT
-> roughly (phone app) puts head angle at 63.4°
- Ohlins TTX22 rear Coil
- e600 switch
- XT 4 piston front brake

First couple of rides have been awesome, traction is off the charts and still goes uphill alright. Just need to add a 185mm Revive dropper and some RaceFace bars to round it out.

2019-05-13 14.22.38.jpg


2019-05-13 14.23.53.jpg
 

RoJo

Active member
Apr 24, 2019
248
200
Surrey
A few suspension upgrades for the eOneSixty 900
- Lyrik upgraded to 180mm Smashpot Coil + RC2 damper
- 29er front wheel running Minion DHF 2.5WT
-> roughly (phone app) puts head angle at 63.4°
- Ohlins TTX22 rear Coil
- e600 switch
- XT 4 piston front brake

First couple of rides have been awesome, traction is off the charts and still goes uphill alright. Just need to add a 185mm Revive dropper and some RaceFace bars to round it out.

View attachment 13773

View attachment 13774
That's a really sweet build.
Was it easy to fit the Ohlins TTX22? Is there any way to increase rear travel a little bit? I noticed when I let all the air out of the shock that the rear suspension could move a little further.
How does it ride with coil vs air? I found bottoming on jumps to be a huge issue and fitted max volume spacers in the shock. Is bottoming an issue?
 

Laker123

New Member
Nov 15, 2018
38
17
New Zealand
Now I’m gaining more skills on the bike and challenging myself I regret not getting the longer travel 160 over the e120 that I own.

If I swap out my suspension and add a yari fork and super deluxe shock, have I effectively made my E120 into an E160 or will all the geometry be all over the place.

Effectively do the 2 models share identical frames with different components or are they designed differently. Hope that makes sense, otherwise I should maybe sell and upgrade with a new bike!
 

Tommyknocker

Member
Feb 14, 2019
23
11
Madrid
Cheers. I'm 187 and I'm thinking about either the L or XL. Two problems, though. I can't find an XL to try in Brisbane, and I haven't ridden a bike in 15 years so I probably wouldn't really be able to tell which is really more suitable.
I will go to get L... I am 1,83 and my L its big enought for you, more h
A few suspension upgrades for the eOneSixty 900
- Lyrik upgraded to 180mm Smashpot Coil + RC2 damper
- 29er front wheel running Minion DHF 2.5WT
-> roughly (phone app) puts head angle at 63.4°
- Ohlins TTX22 rear Coil
- e600 switch
- XT 4 piston front brake

First couple of rides have been awesome, traction is off the charts and still goes uphill alright. Just need to add a 185mm Revive dropper and some RaceFace bars to round it out.

View attachment 13773

View attachment 13774
good... the only think I see is.. do you like having differents brakes front and rear?? the feeling braking is totally different.
 

sonofhans

Member
Feb 20, 2019
8
5
Miami, Qld
That's a really sweet build.
Was it easy to fit the Ohlins TTX22? Is there any way to increase rear travel a little bit? I noticed when I let all the air out of the shock that the rear suspension could move a little further.
How does it ride with coil vs air? I found bottoming on jumps to be a huge issue and fitted max volume spacers in the shock. Is bottoming an issue?

Thanks.
Not much trouble to fit it, just took the lower hardware off the stock shock & swapped to the coil. That said the suspension shop did the swap so they know their way around it those parts.
Coil gives more grip across the board so more noticeable in corners than jumping necessarily, but still I find more support on the bigger hits too. Haven't found bottoming an issue on my bikes with coils.
We didn't try to add more rear travel. 160 plenty enough for me.
 

sonofhans

Member
Feb 20, 2019
8
5
Miami, Qld
I will go to get L... I am 1,83 and my L its big enought for you, more h

good... the only think I see is.. do you like having differents brakes front and rear?? the feeling braking is totally different.

I'm 180 and ride Large.

XT front and rear but 4 piston on front and 2 piston rear, both on 203mm rotors. I'm liking this setup but I am more of a front biased braker so it suits me. I have another 4 piston XT cailper that was to upgrade the rear but I don't think I need it.
 

Dan63

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
289
170
Brisbane
I'm 180 and ride Large.

XT front and rear but 4 piston on front and 2 piston rear, both on 203mm rotors. I'm liking this setup but I am more of a front biased braker so it suits me. I have another 4 piston XT cailper that was to upgrade the rear but I don't think I need it.
I've been thinking about doing the same thing haha send that spare caliper my way! Did you upgrade the rotors as well?
 

Nopper

New Member
Apr 6, 2019
12
6
Belgium
179 cm with very long legs on a medium. Changed stem to a renthal apex 33 that gives me a 5mm rise since i do not like the saddle to be too much higher than the bars. Very happy with the fit now
 

andrewkeys84

New Member
Apr 5, 2019
15
10
Italy
Hello Guys,

I'm about to replace the stock SLX brakes on my 160-800 with zee but I would keep the original hoses: is it as simple as removing the slx levers / calipers, screw the zee ones on and double check air bubbles?

Do you have a step by step procedure or YouTube videos showing that?

Thank you and greetings from Italy!

Andrea
 

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