Levo SL Gen 1 Official Levo SL Thread

[Noblehops]

Noob alert! New to the site and thread, am a day away from picking up my Levo SL Comp Carbon, and I am having some angst about my size choice.

I’m 6’2” and long of body, 34 inch inseam, 230#. My old Stumpy is Size L and seems fine, but it’s all I know. The Specialized fitment chart for the Levo put me in the XL at my size,. Can one of the more knowledgeable guys pipe up about what’s going to feel the most different here? Looking at the specs it seems like the main difference is in the length of the bike from seat post to steering head, which is where I could mostly use it. Wheelbase is about an inch longer as a result. I am guessing it’s going to be a little slower steering, and maybe a bit more stable on descents. What should I expect here guys? If it’s a tossup for size L or XL should I have erred on the side of the smaller frame? My riding is pretty much all cross-country stuff here in the desert.

N.

 

[MLX John]

Noob alert! New to the site and thread, am a day away from picking up my Levo SL Comp Carbon, and I am having some angst about my size choice.

I’m 6’2” and long of body, 34 inch inseam, 230#. My old Stumpy is Size L and seems fine, but it’s all I know. The Specialized fitment chart for the Levo put me in the XL at my size,. Can one of the more knowledgeable guys pipe up about what’s going to feel the most different here? Looking at the specs it seems like the main difference is in the length of the bike from seat post to steering head, which is where I could mostly use it. Wheelbase is about an inch longer as a result. I am guessing it’s going to be a little slower steering, and maybe a bit more stable on descents. What should I expect here guys? If it’s a tossup for size L or XL should I have erred on the side of the smaller frame? My riding is pretty much all cross-country stuff here in the desert.

N.

The Levo SL's are actually on the conservative side when it comes to modern mountain bike geometry. The XL should be perfect for you.

I am 5'9.5" 5'10" on a good day. I ride a large and it fits pretty well, but I wouldn't complain about 10mm added to the reach and a steeper seat tube angle.

As far as wheelbase goes, it's 31mm difference between L and XL. It's very agile for an e-bike, I don't think there's going to be much difference in handling between the two.

The difference between your old SJ and the new bike is going to be stark I believe (in a good way).

 

[Olof Bike Adventures]

The Levo SL's are actually on the conservative side when it comes to modern mountain bike geometry. The XL should be perfect for you.

I am 5'9.5" 5'10" on a good day. I ride a large and it fits pretty well, but I wouldn't complain about 10mm added to the reach and a steeper seat tube angle.

As far as wheelbase goes, it's 31mm difference between L and XL. It's very agile for an e-bike, I don't think there's going to be much difference in handling between the two.

The difference between your old SJ and the new bike is going to be stark I believe (in a good way).

I agree there, I am 185 cm and tested a XL. It felt just about right, at least not too big. I am probably between sizes, but would be just fine with the XL. Very agile bike indeed!

 

[Noblehops]

I agree there, I am 185 cm and tested a XL. It felt just about right, at least not too big. I am probably between sizes, but would be just fine with the XL. Very agile bike indeed!

John, Olof, many thanks for your replies. Helps a lot. Today’s the day!

N.

 

[Olof Bike Adventures]

I compared the Specialized Status in size S4 (Large) with the SL in size XL. The perspective is a bit off, but the "smaller" Status was longer than the SL by some margin.

 

[p3eps]

Noob alert! New to the site and thread, am a day away from picking up my Levo SL Comp Carbon, and I am having some angst about my size choice.

I’m 6’2” and long of body, 34 inch inseam, 230#. My old Stumpy is Size L and seems fine, but it’s all I know. The Specialized fitment chart for the Levo put me in the XL at my size,. Can one of the more knowledgeable guys pipe up about what’s going to feel the most different here? Looking at the specs it seems like the main difference is in the length of the bike from seat post to steering head, which is where I could mostly use it. Wheelbase is about an inch longer as a result. I am guessing it’s going to be a little slower steering, and maybe a bit more stable on descents. What should I expect here guys? If it’s a tossup for size L or XL should I have erred on the side of the smaller frame? My riding is pretty much all cross-country stuff here in the desert.

N.

I’ve had 4 Stumpys in the last 11 years (my latest is a 2017 6-Fattie) all in size L.
I’m also 6ft 2” tall with a 34” inseam.

I demoed the L in the Levo SL, and went with the XL, and am very happy with my choice.
My 170mm dropper is as low as it’ll go, and is the perfect height for me.

 

[Noblehops]

I’ve had 4 Stumpys in the last 11 years (my latest is a 2017 6-Fattie) all in size L.
I’m also 6ft 2” tall with a 34” inseam.

I demoed the L in the Levo SL, and went with the XL, and am very happy with my choice.
My 170mm dropper is as low as it’ll go, and is the perfect height for me.

Thanks a ton for piping up man, that helps a lot. Much appreciated.

 

[Mooncat]

Noob alert! New to the site and thread, am a day away from picking up my Levo SL Comp Carbon, and I am having some angst about my size choice.

I’m 6’2” and long of body, 34 inch inseam, 230#. My old Stumpy is Size L and seems fine, but it’s all I know. The Specialized fitment chart for the Levo put me in the XL at my size,. Can one of the more knowledgeable guys pipe up about what’s going to feel the most different here? Looking at the specs it seems like the main difference is in the length of the bike from seat post to steering head, which is where I could mostly use it. Wheelbase is about an inch longer as a result. I am guessing it’s going to be a little slower steering, and maybe a bit more stable on descents. What should I expect here guys? If it’s a tossup for size L or XL should I have erred on the side of the smaller frame? My riding is pretty much all cross-country stuff here in the desert.

N.

I'm just over 6'1" with 33" inseam and find the L to work for me but I do UK trail centre/off piste/mud/trees/roots etc and having something really agile is key. Another inch on the inseam would definitely have the 150mm dropper more out of the frame than I'd want it so XL for you sounds right. They have fairly long stems so if you want to reduce reach you could lose 30mm there straight away.

 

[Tobers]

Noob alert! New to the site and thread, am a day away from picking up my Levo SL Comp Carbon, and I am having some angst about my size choice.

I’m 6’2” and long of body, 34 inch inseam, 230#. My old Stumpy is Size L and seems fine, but it’s all I know. The Specialized fitment chart for the Levo put me in the XL at my size,. Can one of the more knowledgeable guys pipe up about what’s going to feel the most different here? Looking at the specs it seems like the main difference is in the length of the bike from seat post to steering head, which is where I could mostly use it. Wheelbase is about an inch longer as a result. I am guessing it’s going to be a little slower steering, and maybe a bit more stable on descents. What should I expect here guys? If it’s a tossup for size L or XL should I have erred on the side of the smaller frame? My riding is pretty much all cross-country stuff here in the desert.

N.

I'm also 6'2" and 34" inseam, and have the XL. Good job too, as the XL is perfect. The L would be too small for me.

 

[thewrx]

bike sizes are more about reach than they are about inseam height these days.

larger bikes have longer reach and longer wheelbase, making them more stable at higher speeds, but not as nimble, smaller bikes are the opposite of course.

Once you start really pushing your bike, you will see what works for you.

 

[Chicane]

bike sizes are more about reach than they are about inseam height these days.

larger bikes have longer reach and longer wheelbase, making them more stable at higher speeds, but not as nimble, smaller bikes are the opposite of course.

Once you start really pushing your bike, you will see what works for you.

To me inseam matters a lot as I’m 6’ 34.5 inseam and the higher I put of the seat, the slacker the ST becomes, so the seated reach becomes longer. Taller than average inseam also means that I have a shorter torso, so I never size up like some other people do. I get what your saying about stand over height no longer being an issue these days. My long inseam also means I can run a longer dropper than most if I sized up to XL. For me the SL seated reach on the Large was about 30mm longer than my current bike due to the slacker than normal ST for today’s new Geo.

 

[sonix]

can you power that light with your levo SL?

Unfortunately, no.
I use the original Lupine accu. I attach this to the frame triangle.

regards

 

[jcmonty]

John, Olof, many thanks for your replies. Helps a lot. Today’s the day!

N.

I am 6'1 with 33" inseam riding an XL. Fits great - only thing I would say is due to the slack STA (relatively compared with new school geo) the seated position is a bit long for me. I run an Ergon Enduro saddle and have it fwd on the rails, which helps a ton position me better.

 

[jcmonty]

Yeah its hard to tell in that pic. I just recently replaced the rear tire from a 2.4 to a 2.6 because I was getting a little too many pedal strike even tho I had the flip switch in the high setting, Now with the 2.6 the bike feels great!! No more pedal strike, turns great and tons of traction! I'm loving it.

View attachment 48934

Have you measured your HTA (assuming 160mm on the 38?) and BB height? I may play around with a mullet again sometime.

 

[PointsMeanPrizes]

Hi peeps, is anyone out there doing much riding and do they have issues with the TCU stopping mid-startup cycle repeatedly? I keep mine in a bike shed so it hasn’t really been dried out since mid-December and I’m assuming that’s the issue. Annoying though.
I have since found out that Specialized use Corrosion Block which is made by the same people who make ACF-50, an amazing product for displacing water and stopping corrosion.

I put a portable heater in the shed for a couple hours and it works again but next time it stops working I suspect I’ll strip it down and put Corrosion Block everywhere.

Anyone else got any tips on over I’m this if it happens out on the trail?

 

[Mikek6710]

New owner here, put my first 15 miles on the Levo SL the other day - love the bike so far overall. As many have stated the SRAM REs are lacking, they were bedded in correctly but I just feel like they lack initial bite and power - may try different pads and a bleed on them. Changed tunes a couple times during my ride with Mission Control App and noticed 6 alerts about water between TCU and motor, conditions on trails barely had any water so I am not sure how that is possible. Before riding the bike I pulled the TCU and ensured the USB cover was secure, along with adding some electrical tape around perimeter to ensure it stayed that way. Bike did not show any alerts when I got home and it charged fine so hopefully it does not become a bigger issue, my local trails are normally pretty muddy and water filled so it has me a bit worried.

 

[KnollyBro]

New owner here, put my first 15 miles on the Levo SL the other day - love the bike so far overall. As many have stated the SRAM REs are lacking, they were bedded in correctly but I just feel like they lack initial bite and power - may try different pads and a bleed on them. Changed tunes a couple times during my ride with Mission Control App and noticed 6 alerts about water between TCU and motor, conditions on trails barely had any water so I am not sure how that is possible. Before riding the bike I pulled the TCU and ensured the USB cover was secure, along with adding some electrical tape around perimeter to ensure it stayed that way. Bike did not show any alerts when I got home and it charged fine so hopefully it does not become a bigger issue, my local trails are normally pretty muddy and water filled so it has me a bit worried.

View attachment 49505

Sorry to hear that you are having some concerns with your new bike. I have not had any issues with the TCU so far but that must be frustrating. As for your brakes, I have been using Avid Codes (now SRAM) for many years and found them to be great brakes. I did however, change the levers on my wife's SL from the stock Code RS to the Code RSC model as I like having pad contact adjustment so I can dial in the lever position with more precision/consistency than the reach adjustment offers. I would like to know what the new bikes are being fitted with brake wise as the levers look the same as the Code RS but are now labeled Code RE. Does the E really mean anything more than just a label? Also, what size rotors are you running?

 

[celbii]

Went on a 40F degree ride around today, I love this bike Spent half of it playing around at a park on some big mounds of dirt.

 

[levity]

That does not look like the SL here.

Why do you say that BAMBAM???

Other than wheel/tire size (and backdrop) it looks pretty similar to this one -

t looks

 

[PointsMeanPrizes]

Hi peeps, is anyone out there doing much riding and do they have issues with the TCU stopping mid-startup cycle repeatedly? I keep mine in a bike shed so it hasn’t really been dried out since mid-December and I’m assuming that’s the issue. Annoying though.
I have since found out that Specialized use Corrosion Block which is made by the same people who make ACF-50, an amazing product for displacing water and stopping corrosion.

I put a portable heater in the shed for a couple hours and it works again but next time it stops working I suspect I’ll strip it down and put Corrosion Block everywhere.

Anyone else got any tips on over I’m this if it happens out on the trail?

Hi peeps, is anyone out there doing much riding and do they have issues with the TCU stopping mid-startup cycle repeatedly? I keep mine in a bike shed so it hasn’t really been dried out since mid-December and I’m assuming that’s the issue. Annoying though.
I have since found out that Specialized use Corrosion Block which is made by the same people who make ACF-50, an amazing product for displacing water and stopping corrosion.

I put a portable heater in the shed for a couple hours and it works again but next time it stops working I suspect I’ll strip it down and put Corrosion Block everywhere.

Anyone else got any tips on over I’m this if it happens out on the trail?

Well I had the heater on pre-ride this morning and the problem was there again. Went home grumpy and stripped the TCU and motor out. I checked out the following;

• TCU battery, I don’t have a spare but the voltage was 2.85V so seems ok to me.
• There wasn’t any evidence of moisture in any connections at the TCU or motor end.
  There was a little moisture in the frame though

Here’s a few pictures of the interior.

It’s a 6 hour effort to take the bike back and forth for a warranty claim so any thoughts on a DIY fix would be appreciated.

 

[ThierryGTLTS]

PointsMeanPrizes said: TCU battery, I don’t have a spare but the voltage was 2.85V so seems ok to me.

I think it's too low, at 3V, my TCD display low bat warning!

 

[bbkp]

I just have downloaded the specialized connect IQ app for my garmin 1030.
I can see all the fields, however, setting and diplaying the assist level does not work.
from the apps comments section i can see that others have similar problems.

did anyone install the app and does it work for setting the assist level from the garmin device ?

 

[Zimmerframe]

One for you SL'ers

 

[PointsMeanPrizes]

I think it's too low, at 3V, my TCD display low bat warning!

Thanks, I changed it out last night just to be sure and the fault remains. Off to the shop we go . I keep telling them to stop saying they've never had an SL in for repair as it isn't making me feel any better about mine .

 

[Mikek6710]

Sorry to hear that you are having some concerns with your new bike. I have not had any issues with the TCU so far but that must be frustrating. As for your brakes, I have been using Avid Codes (now SRAM) for many years and found them to be great brakes. I did however, change the levers on my wife's SL from the stock Code RS to the Code RSC model as I like having pad contact adjustment so I can dial in the lever position with more precision/consistency than the reach adjustment offers. I would like to know what the new bikes are being fitted with brake wise as the levers look the same as the Code RS but are now labeled Code RE. Does the E really mean anything more than just a label? Also, what size rotors are you running?

Levers are the same as the Guide R from what I can tell, the difference is the RE setup is supposed to be optimized for EMTBs. There is only the one adjuster knob for reach, nothing for pad contact at all. Running the stock rotors now, may bleed out the brakes and swap pads to see what kind of difference that makes before throwing money at a new setup - I actually have an older FS bike with Avid Juicy's on it and they have better progression and power IMO but obviously the bike weighs 14lbs less.

 

[celbii]

Well I got the 34T chainring installed tonight. Spent an hour and a half or so messing with adjusting the B gap(with the tool) and trying to get the shifting good and I got it to where it wouldn't jump when shifting and to shift to every gear, but I just can't get smooth shifts out of it so I am going to take it tomorrow to the LBS I bought it from since they have good MTB techs up there and just pay them $18 they charge to adjust the shifting, well worth it I think. Weathers going to be crappy the next few day anyways.. That being said the chainring install itself was very easy and straightforward and incurred no issues at all. The most annoying part was simply getting the old chainring off at first glance but once you rotate the crank arm a time or two it slips right off and over(I removed the pedal).

 

[MLX John]

Levers are the same as the Guide R from what I can tell, the difference is the RE setup is supposed to be optimized for EMTBs. There is only the one adjuster knob for reach, nothing for pad contact at all. Running the stock rotors now, may bleed out the brakes and swap pads to see what kind of difference that makes before throwing money at a new setup - I actually have an older FS bike with Avid Juicy's on it and they have better progression and power IMO but obviously the bike weighs 14lbs less.

They are Guide R levers paired with Code calipers. Plenty of power with a proper bleed. Had a Levo comp for a couple of weeks with these brakes. Also like the G2 RSC brakes on my SL.
That being said, the 4 pot XT brakes on my Stumpjumper are by far my favorite (and the most powerful).

 

[p3eps]

Well I got the 34T chainring installed tonight. Spent an hour and a half or so messing with adjusting the B gap(with the tool) and trying to get the shifting good and I got it to where it wouldn't jump when shifting and to shift to every gear, but I just can't get smooth shifts out of it so I am going to take it tomorrow to the LBS I bought it from since they have good MTB techs up there and just pay them $18 they charge to adjust the shifting, well worth it I think. Weathers going to be crappy the next few day anyways.. That being said the chainring install itself was very easy and straightforward and incurred no issues at all. The most annoying part was simply getting the old chainring off at first glance but once you rotate the crank arm a time or two it slips right off and over(I removed the pedal).


View attachment 49959
View attachment 49960

Did you add any links to your chain?

 

[celbii]

Did you add any links to your chain?

No I did not. Wasn't sure if going to the 34t would need a longer chain or not, I'm not knowledgeable enough on the topic to know. I figured if this ended up happening I would ask my LBS as part of my learning if the chain is too short or not when I take it there.

I've biked off and on my whole life but really got back into it about 3 years ago with my hard tail just riding around for health, and I've done a bit since then like changing out bars/stem/new cables/wheels/tires etc so pretty basic stuff only and I have no issue with it, but this is my first foray into changing the drivetrain on a bike and I'm a bit of a slow learner at times and have been scared to dive into this stuff in the past but I am so in love with my Levo SL it has me wanting to do everything to the bike and ride it and see how its been improved for my rides. I'm having such a blast and its really got me out cycling again and just enjoying the ride. I went downtown and rode around with two friends a few nights ago in the 43F weather and did my longest ride in a long time, an hour and 15 minutes and over 10 miles, with a decent bit more left in the tank. Its not much to most but given the state of my health it was pretty awesome because I was able to easily keep up with my friends and follow their lines jumping off stuff and taking stair sets as well as riding to the pump track and a bunch of wooden features next to it. They are pretty decent riders, not pros by any means, but they are riding 100-150 miles a week mtb/trail riding so they aren't slouches by anymeans. I probably would have tapped out within 30 minutes on my hardtail but the SL was like riding the wind, especially at the slower pace of following two acoustic bikes around just looking for stuff to do. It was actually a much easier ride other than looking for stuff to launch off of and stair sets etc than my solo rides on the SL where I just take a normal roadbike trail usually and push the SL in the smallest cog 95% of the time trying to get a good work out in. Such a blast.

 

[squeegee]

Can anyone say with experience on this?

Specifically trying to see if on size M comp carbon with Bomber coil shock can fit a Range Extender without touching piggyback. I don't have a Range extender yet but with measurements from a friend I don't think it will work with stock bottle cage. Range Extender is 20 cm long by 7 cm in diameter.

A few pages back someone mentioned Arundel carbon STR cage can sit the Range Extender lower on frame and does work with Bomber shock however his frame is L and mine is M